After getting a new tire mounted, and regreasing the wheel bearings, I remounted the wheel.
Torque wrench set to 43 ft/lbs for the screw in type axle. When the wrench clicked, not enough threads were showing to install a new cotter pin.
I know that isn't right, because I realized the pin was missing when I removed the wheel.
Off comes the wheel, and looking through the axle bore, the spacer seems to be touching both bearings, can't figure it out. :dash2:
I did not remove the bearings to clean them, and the grease seal is flush in its pocket.
The stepped spacer fits into the seal and touches the bearing.
A cotter pin is not used on your bike. It has the the punch bolt on the other lower leg.
The early FJ'S had a nut and cotter pin.
They both use the same axle.
Randy - RPM
My '89 front axial looks the same.
Thanks for the reality check. Test ride revealed the slightly cupped, but 6K miles old tire was not the cause of my low speed front wobble. The new tire was mounted and balanced at my local shop, Napa Moto.
I am going to change the fork oil next. I haven't peeked down there yet. Who knows what's inside.
If I compress my forks with my finger under the cup of the top steering head bearing, I can feel a little rocking movement, forward and back, about 1/16th of an inch. Is that normal?
Based on looking at the front wheel bearings, which had old, dark orange grease, and not a lot of it, I assume the steering head bearings need lube and adjustment, too.
The Michelin Man took my bike allowance this month, so these are things I can do in the meantime.
Oh Yeah, how do set torque on the steering head ring nut?
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on June 16, 2016, 08:46:35 PM
If I compress my forks with my finger under the cup of the top steering head bearing, I can feel a little rocking movement, forward and back, about 1/16th of an inch. Is that normal?
No, that is absolutely NOT normal. Take the forks off, remove the upper and lower triple clamps, and look carefully at the bearing races. If you see any marks, like pits, dents or funny little straight lines, the bearings are trashed and must be replaced. Be prepared; it's not fun.
If the stem bearings are smooth and have no marks, grease the bearings. Try to inject grease inside the rollers, into the inner race. And ahhhh... and if you install new bearings, those also need grease. Install the triple clamps. Tighten the nut so that there is zero free-play, but zero pre-load. (Geez, I should write a step-by-step...)
Now disassemble the fork tubes. Clean all the muck out of the bottom legs. Put forks back together with one of Randy's nifty fork rebuild kits. Refill forks with the oil of your choice. Reinstall forks. Reinstall front wheel. Reinstall front brakes. Bleed brakes (every 2 years.) Might as well bleed the clutch while you're at it. Then go take a hot shower and collapse into your favorite chair with a cold beer.
Then next month... take apart the rear suspension. I promise you that the rollers and races in the swingarm and suspension links are trashed. Clean, replace, paint, grease, reassemble. Have fun...
Oh yeah... when's the last time you adjusted the valves? :biggrin:
Bill
Bill, those are all items on my list, along with upgraded fork springs.
Upon closer inspection of the fork tubes, I realized the right tube is about 1mm above the yoke, and the left is 3.5-4mm above the yoke. Once that is corrected, I can move forward, hopefully without wobbling!
Thank you, everyone, for your assistance.
No change in handling after equalizing the fork tubes. Should I have relaxed the axle when doing this?
Next on my list is the steering head bearings and fork rebuild, no avoiding reality.
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on June 17, 2016, 09:29:24 PM
No change in handling after equalizing the fork tubes. Should I have relaxed the axle when doing this?
Next on my list is the steering head bearings and fork rebuild, no avoiding reality.
At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.
Thanks, Mark. Will Do.
Yea that's a funny thing about fork seals....if one starts leaking and you ignore it, soon it stops leaking.
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 17, 2016, 09:39:18 PM
At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.
This is only an inch from the top.
I recommend, at least with the
RPM fork valve (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve) set up, to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on June 19, 2016, 01:33:10 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 17, 2016, 09:39:18 PM
At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.
This is only an inch from the top.
I recommend, at least with the RPM fork valve (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve) set up to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.
Randy - RPM
oops! .. yeah , ment to say 120-130mm. thanks for paying attention Randy. :good2:
Quote from: racerrad8 on June 19, 2016, 01:33:10 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 17, 2016, 09:39:18 PM
At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.
This is only an inch from the top.
I recommend, at least with the RPM fork valve (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve) set up, to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.
Randy - RPM
I followed Randy's oil level recommendations when I did my forks last night, man what a difference. Let me give you some anti idiot advice. Don't start messing with your forks and look at the key in the ignition and tell yourself you should remove it and then not do it. MotherF$%&r are you kidding me did I just??? ...... Dammit Mike you idiot. Yes I hit the key and bent that somebiotch and screwed up the tin ignition cover.
WTF is that supposed to mean? Can you translate that into English?
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 20, 2016, 11:42:49 PM
WTF is that supposed to mean? Can you translate that into English?
I was just saying that when I decided to jump into doing my forks I left the key in the ignition like an idiot and later while working in that area I bent the key over in the ignition on accident. Learn from me, remove the key.
Thanks, I will take that advice any day. Usually I can't find my key when working on the bike because it's still in the seat/helmet lock!
I am replacing the fork oil with Bel-Ray 10W, and installing Progressive Suspension springs.
At that time, the steering head bearings will be dealt with.
And a rear brake m/c rebuild.
And a new throttle.
The funny thing is, I enjoy doing these necessary things.
You ride with a bigger smile after a repair or upgrade.
Funny reply when I asked bike shop owner about Belray fork oil. His reply was "good for about one lap around the track" never used the product since then.
Lez
'
Quote from: chiz on June 23, 2016, 07:43:44 AM
Funny reply when I asked bike shop owner about Belray fork oil. His reply was "good for about one lap around the track" never used the product since then.
Lez
'
I used Maxima oil in my forks, not because I like that brand but because it was less expensive and I liked the bottle as it had a nice handle molded into it. That and it had enough oil in one bottle to do both forks. I really wanted to try the 10 wt and see if it was to my liking, I had it in my mind I might be draining it if I didn't care for it so price was a factor. So far I'm digging it but it's just a tad rigid. I have my springs loaded to the stiffest setting so I'm going to drop a notch and try that. One thing I noticed right off the bat is that after I fixed the forks I'm feeling the rear needing adjustment now, never felt that before.
Removed fork legs, drained exactly 400 ml of oil from left and right.
Springs are progressively wound. Normal? Haynes manual not very clear.
Oil kind of grey, glad I am replacing it, Mark Olson, thanks for the kick in the pants about maintenance.
I weigh 210 lbs soaking wet, will 120-130 mm from top of tube work for fork oil level?
Next question, how do I remove and retorque crown nuts on yoke so I can inspect and lube steering head bearings?
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on June 23, 2016, 09:58:33 PM
Removed fork legs, drained exactly 400 ml of oil from left and right.
Springs are progressively wound. Normal? Haynes manual not very clear.
Oil kind of grey, glad I am replacing it, Mark Olson, thanks for the kick in the pants about maintenance.
I weigh 210 lbs soaking wet, will 120-130 mm from top of tube work for fork oil level?
Next question, how do I remove and retorque crown nuts on yoke so I can inspect and lube steering head bearings?
Hey Mike, Your springs are the original factory wanna be progressives.
oil level is a personal preference to be experimented with as well as weight of oil .
for your weight I would recommend 15w fork oil and 130mm from the top of fork .
set preload to middle and try that out.
If you want a softer ride , use a lower oil level of 150mm. with 10w fork oil.
on the "yoke" known as the triple tree , you can use slip joint pliers to loosen the nuts so you can remove it and grease the brgs. Try to save the locking washer if you can.
there is a tool for setting the nut. But you can tighten the nut your self with a little care.
get the front wheel off the ground ... centerstand and some weight on the tail will work. Now rotate the handle bars from full lock right with one push and it should rotate all the way left and bounce back to center . If it comes all the way back to right side, tighten the nut more... If not far enough left , loosen the nut. you get the idea.
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 24, 2016, 10:54:16 PM
.....get the front wheel off the ground ... centerstand and some weight on the tail will work. Now rotate the handle bars from full lock right with one push and it should rotate all the way left and bounce back to center . If it comes all the way back to right side, tighten the nut more... If not far enough left , loosen the nut. you get the idea.
There is a universal method for tightening tapered roller bearings, regardless of the application. I don't know who originally introduced the above method to the forum but it has too many variables to be accurate (and you can bet Randy doesn't do it that way)
Ask "Cutter Bill" he knows how to do it. The only thing I would add to his description, is "tighten, then back off" rather than just tighten.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on June 24, 2016, 11:15:42 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 24, 2016, 10:54:16 PM
.....get the front wheel off the ground ... centerstand and some weight on the tail will work. Now rotate the handle bars from full lock right with one push and it should rotate all the way left and bounce back to center . If it comes all the way back to right side, tighten the nut more... If not far enough left , loosen the nut. you get the idea.
There is a universal method for tightening tapered roller bearings, regardless of the application. I don't know who originally introduced the above method to the forum but it has too many variables to be accurate (and you can bet Randy doesn't do it that way)
Ask "Cutter Bill" he knows how to do it. The only thing I would add to his description, is "tighten, then back off" rather than just tighten.
Noel
Well after you use the above method , Ride over to RPM and have Randy check it with the ring nut torque tool he has at the shop. That should remove all doubt if it is set correctly.
Noel is correct in the tighten up first to set the load then back off and snug it up. Kinda just like wheel brgs on a car.
The bounce back method has been used on motorcycles since god was a boy...... Is it perfect ? no , but it is close enough.
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on June 23, 2016, 09:58:33 PM
I weigh 210 lbs soaking wet, will 120-130 mm from top of tube work for fork oil level?
Did you measure the free length of the springs?
120-130 is closing up the air gap quite a bit and will definitely stiffen the ride. When I build forks here, and add the RPM components I set them all at 6" (152mm). Yamaha recommends, depending on the year, 142-169mm
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on June 23, 2016, 09:58:33 PM
Next question, how do I remove and retorque crown nuts on yoke so I can inspect and lube steering head bearings?
Here is the proper tool for the job,
Yamaha Steering Stem Wrench (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3AYamahaStemWrench). It allow the use of the torque wrench as per the GYSM.
Randy -
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/)
The stock springs were within spec, according to the manual.
The Progressive Suspension springs are 1 inch shorter than stock. Their instructions say no spacer required, so
I put them in after checking if they were correct for the FJ (#11-1126).
Robert suggested adding spacers to make up the difference. I will add them if needed.
I added 395 ml of oil to each leg- Haynes manual
The bearings and races look good, just lacked grease. The bottom bearing was bone dry.
My local shop is letting me borrow their wrench for the stem nut.
Ok. The front end was reassembled.
The stem nut was torqued to 36 ft. Lbs, then I relaxed the nut, and retorqued it to 2.2. ft. lbs.
Wobble problem is still there! :dash2:
1- new tire
2- fresh fork oil
3- new fork springs
4- regreased steering head and wheel bearings
This condition emerged slowly over the last 1500 miles and now head shakes at low speeds so much, I don't want to ride it.
My gut tells me it's the steering head bearing, gonna retorque em. This time on center stand with the tire touching pavement.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
This may not help, but I never trusted the torque then re-torque technique. I use a pair of channel lock pliars to run it down and take out all the slop, then I loosen slightly and snug the nut back down as I twist the bars to check for binding. Just like I used to do with the old fashioned front wheel bearings.
Just for experiments sake, tight the steering head more and but not enough to cause it to bind. Then take it for a test. Then u will know for sure.
Get on the bike push with your feet and jam the front brakes on, do you feel slop in the head or anything loose? If that stem is not wobbling around but the bike turns freely I'd be taking a good look at that new tire and make sure it didn't throw a weight or something to put it out of balance. You could have started with the wobble from the steering and fixed it only to have it coming from a different location now after you changed other things. Just tossing ideas.
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on July 01, 2016, 06:29:57 PM
My gut tells me it's the steering head bearing, gonna retorque em. This time on center stand with the tire touching pavement.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I wouldn't do it with the weight of the bike on the front wheel, it will give you an incorrect reading.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 01, 2016, 06:45:40 PM
I never trusted the torque then re-torque technique. I use a pair of channel lock pliars to run it down and take out all the slop, then I loosen slightly and snug the nut back down as I twist the bars to check for binding. Just like I used to do with the old fashioned front wheel bearings.
I endorse what Hooli said. This is one job that I reckon is better down by feel than by numbers (torque wrench) It is how I was taught to do it (in trade school) and I've never found a case for doing it any differently, but it's only hair splitting, if you have torqued it to spec I doubt it is the cause of the problem unless you have missed it by a mile. I can feel a bit excessive play in mine on full lock turns but even that is not enough to cause problems under normal riding conditions.
One of the problems of on-line diagnosis is terminology. You describe it as both "low speed wobble" and "headshake" These are two different things to me.
In my experience,
low speed wobble is usually wheel related as the suspension is not working hard enough to set up oscillations that cause shaking and vibrations , the wheel being the only component with enough mass and inertia at low speed to be felt through the bike.
Headshake at low speed so bad you won't ride it suggests something so bad that it
should be obvious. If the tyre is new (and the bead is properly seated) and the rim is true and not buckled, I would next check for excessive freeplay or something not tight somewhere, from the handlebars to the front wheel bearings. For example, a crook wheel bearing would fit the progressive onset of the problem and if partially collapsed, a wobble.
Fork springs, oil brand, viscosity and level, suspension settings or even headstem bearings, are all unlikely to cause low speed issues for the above reasons.
If you have eliminated the obvious causes, time to consider the unlikely but possible ones, like have you traded problems. Fixed the problem but created another one during assembly. Left something seriously loose.....
If no solution is found, perhaps you could describe in more detail what's happening - actual speed it starts at, where you feel it, can you ride through it, does it change if you apply the front brake, If you apply the front brake several times rapidly while riding does the lever pump up.etc.
Noel
Do you have panniers and/or a rack fitted by chance. My bike had weird handling once that was so bad I swore something was loose in the front end, the bike would wobble while riding and felt unstable while cornering. Turned out to be a broken indicator mount on one side where the rack mounts up to causing the rack to wobble when riding and sending that wobble to the front end. The more weight on the back the worse the wobble.
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on July 01, 2016, 06:29:57 PM
Ok. The front end was reassembled.
The stem nut was torqued to 36 ft. Lbs, then I relaxed the nut, and retorqued it to 2.2. ft. lbs.
Wobble problem is still there! :dash2:
1- new tire
2- fresh fork oil
3- new fork springs
4- regreased steering head and wheel bearings
This condition emerged slowly over the last 1500 miles and now head shakes at low speeds so much, I don't want to ride it.
My gut tells me it's the steering head bearing, gonna retorque em. This time on center stand with the tire touching pavement.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM
The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure? That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM
The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure? That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.
Noel
That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think
Quote from: a.graham52 on July 02, 2016, 06:34:36 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM
The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure? That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.
Noel
That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think
He's suggesting the
RE torque (the final setting) should 26 ft lbs, not the initial nip up.
For those that wish to set the load with a torque wrench, fine, but you certainly don't need one to set the initial nip up only then to set the final adjustment by hand.
Noel
Never assume a new tire is flawless. Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeiO2pSVY8Q (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeiO2pSVY8Q)
My manual says retorque to 2.2 ft. lbs, that's 26.4 in. lbs. Initial torque is 36 ft. lbs.
I amped my initial torque to 38 ft. lbs, we'll see if that makes any difference.
Where do you get a torque wrench that's accurate at 2.2 ft-lb?
I've always heard they were least accurate at the lowest and highest ranges.
You need a torque wrench (prob a 1/4 drive) designed for inchlbs. I have one that has a max of around 360 inch lbs
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 02, 2016, 06:35:39 PM
Where do you get a torque wrench that's accurate at 2.2 ft-lb?
I've have these two little fellas:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7492/27767121630_fd24850e31_c.jpg)
They measure in INCH/pounds. 2.2 ft/lbs would be 26 on one of these. The one on the left is American made and measures US inches, the other one imperial inches.But that's not the point. The instruction to apply a torque value in this instance is typical of much of the procedural information to be found in workshop manuals - overkill. Such as removing the fairing to check the valves and then explaining the most difficult way to remove it and I'm sure there are many more examples.
All workshop manuals suffer from this, it is not in an engineers vocabulary to say "nip up, backoff, feel, whisker, bee's dick, tad ....." it has to be the result of a calculation and have a value.
Giving such a low value is silly enough, taking it to a decimal point is ridiculous.
For as long as they have been writing these tomes, the mechanics for whom they are written have used them for little more than specifications for this very reason. At one point I had 30 -40 of them sitting on the shelf, it is common to all of them, car manuals are worse.
Hooli's right, trying to measure that on a standard wrench is not going to be accurate anyway, particularly that pesky .2 :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 07:03:07 AM
Quote from: a.graham52 on July 02, 2016, 06:34:36 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM
The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure? That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.
Noel
That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think
He's suggesting the RE torque (the final setting) should 26 ft lbs, not the initial nip up.
For those that wish to set the load with a torque wrench, fine, but you certainly don't need one to set the initial nip up only then to set the final adjustment by hand.
Noel
ahhh shit... yes it should be 26 inch lbs. for the retorque snuggie. My fault ... typo.. :dash2:
because he has access to a tool this can be done. Other wise do the bar turn bounce test when you are done and see where it ends up.
I use this little fella.
It's a click type used for gun smithing.
Went for an 80 mile run. No change.
I have no bags or top box.
The best way to describe the wobble: extend your hands like you are gripping the bars,
Now rotate them like you're pedaling a small bicycle. Your head bobbles side to side, the equal, but opposite reaction to the movement of the front end.
This begins as soon as I am rolling, gets most annoying around 15 mph, then largely disappears above 35 mph.
You still feel something at higher speeds, a tap through the grips and pegs. Almost like a stuck link in the chain or a rock stuck in your tire.
Applying brakes makes no difference in the oscillations.
Put the bike on the center stand and Jack the front wheel off the ground. I use a floor jack and gently lift the exhaust. Spin the front wheel by hand. Does it wobble up and down. Or side to side? Does the rim wobble or is it just the tire. Take a screw driver and touch your fork with the shafts so the tip is over the tire. This may help u see the wobble as it goes around.. if there is one
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on July 03, 2016, 03:05:24 PM
This begins as soon as I am rolling, gets most annoying around 15 mph......
At those speeds I can't imagine it being anything
but the wheel/tyre/something loose.
As previously suggested, check the wheel is true. With the wheel elevated, grab it top and bottom and rock it with reasonable force to see if there is any free play.
Noel
Thanks. Will do.
This wobble is throwing off the accuracy of my bottle rocket launcher when I'm out huntin' wabbits.
Front tyre bead isn't seated properly?
I once had a bike doing similar to what you describe. I took the tyre off, cleaned the bead area of the rim and seated the tyre using a good mounting paste and the problem was gone.
Eureka, I found it! Finally let my mechanic ride my Yamawobbler. He said look at the rear end because this wobble is throughout the chassis. Up on the center stand she goes, fire it up, let out the clutch and watch the rear tire move side to side AND out of round!
Pretty embarrassing I didn't think of this before.
As a result of barking at the wrong end of the tree, I did get a much nicer front suspension, so no loss there.
The steering is also improved 10X.
I checked the rear rim for runout and/or bearing play and it seems pretty good, doesn't look bent or out of round.
Tire is a two y.o. Avon Storm w/6k mi. Any guesses on what happened to the tire?
Not sure what caused the failure but Avon might be interested in looking at that tire. On the other hand if they already know about it, they may not care to look at it. Very happy you found the cause. A fresh tire and all is 10X better.
Try having the tire dismounted then remounted to reseat the bead. Sometimes the tire bead doesn't pop all the way out on the rim. This will make the tire roll lopsided.
Look closely at the bead. There is usually a circumferential line around the bead. Look at it in relation to the rim and see it if looks off when you spin the tire.
I had something similar happen when we changed the rear tire on my son's Husky. I had to put about 50psi in it to pop the bead all the way out.
A similar thing happened on my bother in laws HD. He kept complaining of issues with steering, poor front end response, etc. I local bike shop looked at ti and told him the front hoop was bent. It had spoke wheels on it and there was a small bend in it where he hit a pot hole. He had it replaced but it did not change the issue. The bike had about 3500 miles on it.
He had the dealer look at it and they told him the tube was bad and it had a "bubble". They replaced it but the problem remained.
I had him come by the shop one afternoon. He parked outside and walked in. I walked out to the bike with him to give it a once over in the day light to see if there was anything glaring at me in the bright light. Shit all the chrome was blinding me...
So, I told him to ride it into the shop. I watched him get on the bike and sit down. As he raised it up off the kick stand, I noticed the rear of the bike swing to the left by about two inches. I stopped him before he started it. As he was holding the bike upright, I grabbed the rear end. I was shocked, I could move it close to three inches, left to right. I noticed the hoop/tire was not moving but the center hub was flopping side to side. Took it into the shop and raised the rear of the bike. The spokes were so loose the wheel was able to move up & down close to an inch when there was no load on the wheel.
Took the wheel off, the hub, spokes and hoop were shot from the spokes being loose. This bike was brand new, was service by the dealer and had 3500 miles on it. Needless to say the dealer did not work on it anymore after that.
So, what he thought was bad handling in the front was actually him have to constantly correct for the loose wheel in the back.
Randy - RPM
Good God that's insanely dangerous. I dont feel so bad about my front tire pressure being low now after hearing that nightmare story.
Thank you to everyone who gave me advice on this issue. I also relearned that convincing yourself and those who assist you which direction you must go can lead to frustration. Be open to all possibilities.