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Front Axle Frustration

Started by Yamahammer1200, June 15, 2016, 09:28:46 PM

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Bones

Do you have panniers and/or a rack fitted by chance. My bike had weird handling once that was so bad I swore something was loose in the front end, the bike would wobble while riding and felt unstable while cornering. Turned out to be a broken indicator mount on one side where the rack mounts up to causing the rack to wobble when riding and sending that wobble to the front end. The more weight on the back the worse the wobble.
93 fj1200
79 suzuki gt250x7


Too young to be old but old enough to know better.

Mark Olson

Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on July 01, 2016, 06:29:57 PM
Ok.  The front end was reassembled.
The stem nut was torqued to 36 ft. Lbs, then I relaxed the nut, and retorqued it to 2.2. ft. lbs.
Wobble problem is still there! :dash2:
1- new tire
2- fresh fork oil
3- new fork springs
4- regreased steering head and wheel bearings
This condition emerged slowly over the last 1500 miles and now head shakes at low speeds so much, I don't want to ride it.
My gut tells me it's the steering head bearing, gonna retorque em.  This time on center stand with the tire touching pavement.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

ribbert

Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM

The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.


Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure?  That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

a.graham52

Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM

The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.


Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure?  That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.

Noel

That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think

ribbert

Quote from: a.graham52 on July 02, 2016, 06:34:36 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM

The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.


Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure?  That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.

Noel


That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think

He's suggesting the RE torque (the final setting) should 26 ft lbs, not the initial nip up.

For those that wish to set the load with a torque wrench, fine, but you certainly don't need one to set the initial nip up only then to set the final adjustment by hand.

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Tuneforkfreak

Yamahas from my past,
IT465, IT200, YZ80. 350Warrior, Kodiak400, Kodiak450,
Various others include
XR600, KX500, KDX200, ATC250R, ATC350X, ATC 200S
Currently ride
FJ 1200 , DRZ400, Yamaha Viking, Suzuki Samurai dirt mobile

Yamahammer1200

My manual says retorque to 2.2 ft. lbs, that's 26.4 in. lbs.  Initial torque is 36 ft. lbs.
I amped my initial torque to 38 ft. lbs, we'll see if that makes any difference.
Chrome don't get you home.
1989 FJ1200

FJ_Hooligan

Where do you get a torque wrench that's accurate at 2.2 ft-lb?

I've always heard they were least accurate at the lowest and highest ranges.
DavidR.

a.graham52

You need a torque wrench (prob a 1/4 drive) designed for inchlbs. I have one that has a max of around 360 inch lbs

ribbert

Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 02, 2016, 06:35:39 PM

Where do you get a torque wrench that's accurate at 2.2 ft-lb?


I've have these two little fellas:



They measure in INCH/pounds. 2.2 ft/lbs would be 26 on one of these. The one on the left is American made and measures US inches, the other one imperial inches.

But that's not the point. The instruction to apply a torque value in this instance is typical of much of the procedural information to be found in workshop manuals - overkill. Such as removing the fairing to check the valves and then explaining the most difficult way to remove it and I'm sure there are many more examples.

All workshop manuals suffer from this, it is not in an engineers vocabulary to say "nip up, backoff, feel, whisker, bee's dick, tad ....." it has to be the result of a calculation and have a value.
Giving such a low value is silly enough, taking it to a decimal point is ridiculous.

For as long as they have been writing these tomes, the mechanics for whom they are written have used them for little more than specifications for this very reason. At one point I had 30 -40 of them sitting on the shelf, it is common to all of them, car manuals are worse.

Hooli's right, trying to measure that on a standard wrench is not going to be accurate anyway, particularly that pesky .2  :biggrin:

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Mark Olson

Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 07:03:07 AM
Quote from: a.graham52 on July 02, 2016, 06:34:36 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 02, 2016, 04:09:00 AM
Quote from: Mark Olson on July 02, 2016, 12:48:11 AM

The retorque is supposed to be 26 ft. lbs.


Mark, I don't have a manual to refer to but are you sure?  That seems like a very high value for a tapered bearing.

Noel


That sounds to me like a good initial torque. Then loosen and hand tight. That's what I think

He's suggesting the RE torque (the final setting) should 26 ft lbs, not the initial nip up.

For those that wish to set the load with a torque wrench, fine, but you certainly don't need one to set the initial nip up only then to set the final adjustment by hand.

Noel



ahhh shit... yes it should be 26 inch lbs. for the retorque snuggie.  My fault ... typo..  :dash2:

because he has access to a tool this can be done. Other wise do the bar turn bounce test when you are done and see where it ends up.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

Yamahammer1200

I use this little fella.
It's a click type used for gun smithing.
Went for an 80 mile run.  No change.
I have no bags or top box.
The best way to describe the wobble:  extend your hands like you are gripping the bars,
Now rotate them like you're pedaling a small bicycle. Your head bobbles side to side, the equal, but opposite reaction to the movement of the front end.
This begins as soon as I am rolling, gets most annoying around 15 mph, then largely disappears above 35 mph.
You still feel something at higher speeds, a tap through the grips and pegs.  Almost like a stuck link in the chain or a rock stuck in your tire.
Applying brakes makes no difference in the oscillations.
Chrome don't get you home.
1989 FJ1200

a.graham52

Put the bike on the center stand and Jack the front wheel off the ground. I use a floor jack and gently lift the exhaust. Spin the front wheel by hand. Does it wobble up and down. Or side to side? Does the rim wobble or is it just the tire. Take a screw driver and touch your fork with the shafts so the tip is over the tire. This may help u see the wobble as it goes around.. if there is one

ribbert

Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on July 03, 2016, 03:05:24 PM


This begins as soon as I am rolling, gets most annoying around 15 mph......

At those speeds I can't imagine it being anything but the wheel/tyre/something loose.

As previously suggested, check the wheel is true. With the wheel elevated, grab it top and bottom and rock it with reasonable force to see if there is any free play.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Yamahammer1200

Thanks.  Will do.
This wobble is throwing off the accuracy of my bottle rocket launcher when I'm out huntin' wabbits.
Chrome don't get you home.
1989 FJ1200