Front Axle Frustration

[Yamahammer1200]

After getting a new tire mounted, and regreasing the wheel bearings, I remounted the wheel.
Torque wrench set to 43 ft/lbs for the screw in type axle. When the wrench clicked, not enough threads were showing to install a new cotter pin.
I know that isn't right, because I realized the pin was missing when I removed the wheel.
Off comes the wheel, and looking through the axle bore, the spacer seems to be touching both bearings, can't figure it out.
I did not remove the bearings to clean them, and the grease seal is flush in its pocket.
The stepped spacer fits into the seal and touches the bearing.

[racerrad8]

A cotter pin is not used on your bike. It has the the punch bolt on the other lower leg.

The early FJ'S had a nut and cotter pin.

They both use the same axle.

Randy - RPM

[FJmonkey]

My '89 front axial looks the same.

[Yamahammer1200]

Thanks for the reality check.  Test ride revealed the slightly cupped, but 6K miles old tire was not the cause of my low speed front wobble.  The new tire was mounted and balanced at my local shop, Napa Moto.
I am going to change the fork oil next.  I haven't peeked down there yet.  Who knows what's inside.
If I compress my forks with my finger under the cup of the top steering head bearing, I can feel a little rocking movement, forward and back, about 1/16th of an inch.  Is that normal?
Based on looking at the front wheel bearings, which had old, dark orange grease, and not a lot of it, I assume the steering head bearings need lube and adjustment, too.
The Michelin Man took my bike allowance this month, so these are things I can do in the meantime.
Oh Yeah, how do set torque on the steering head ring nut?

[CutterBill]

If I compress my forks with my finger under the cup of the top steering head bearing, I can feel a little rocking movement, forward and back, about 1/16th of an inch.  Is that normal?

No, that is absolutely NOT normal.  Take the forks off, remove the upper and lower triple clamps, and look carefully at the bearing races.  If you see any marks, like pits, dents or funny little straight lines, the bearings are trashed and must be replaced.  Be prepared; it's not fun. 

If the stem bearings are smooth and have no marks, grease the bearings.  Try to inject grease inside the rollers, into the inner race.  And ahhhh... and if you install new bearings, those also need grease.  Install the triple clamps.  Tighten the nut so that there is zero free-play, but zero pre-load.  (Geez, I should write a step-by-step...)

Now disassemble the fork tubes.  Clean all the muck out of the bottom legs.  Put forks back together with one of Randy's nifty fork rebuild kits.  Refill forks with the oil of your choice.  Reinstall forks.  Reinstall front wheel.  Reinstall front brakes.  Bleed brakes (every 2 years.)  Might as well bleed the clutch while you're at it.  Then go take a hot shower and collapse into your favorite chair with a cold beer.

Then next month... take apart the rear suspension.  I promise you that the rollers and races in the swingarm and suspension links are trashed.  Clean, replace, paint, grease, reassemble.  Have fun...

Oh yeah... when's the last time you adjusted the valves?   
Bill

[ribbert]

....Tighten the nut so that there is zero free-play, but zero pre-load.....

Bill

Noel

[Yamahammer1200]

Bill, those are all items on my list, along with upgraded fork springs.
Upon closer inspection of the fork tubes, I realized the right tube is about 1mm above the yoke, and the left is 3.5-4mm above the yoke.  Once that is corrected, I can move forward, hopefully without wobbling!
Thank you, everyone, for your assistance.

[Yamahammer1200]

No change in handling after equalizing the fork tubes. Should I have relaxed the axle when doing this?
Next on my list is the steering head bearings and fork rebuild, no avoiding reality.

[Mark Olson]

No change in handling after equalizing the fork tubes. Should I have relaxed the axle when doing this?
Next on my list is the steering head bearings and fork rebuild, no avoiding reality.

At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.

[Yamahammer1200]

Thanks, Mark.  Will Do.

[Pat Conlon]

Yea that's a funny thing about fork seals....if one starts leaking and you ignore it, soon it stops leaking.

[racerrad8]

At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.

This is only an inch from the top.

I recommend, at least with the RPM fork valve set up, to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.

Randy - RPM

[Mark Olson]

At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.

This is only an inch from the top.

I recommend, at least with the RPM fork valve set up to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.

Randy - RPM

oops! .. yeah , ment to say 120-130mm.  thanks for paying attention Randy.

[Tuneforkfreak]

At least check the Fork oil level.
with springs out and fully colapsed , oil will be 20-30 mm from the top of fork.
you may have a leaky seal on one side . The reason there is no oil on the outside dripping is because it all dripped out already.

This is only an inch from the top.

I recommend, at least with the RPM fork valve set up, to be at 6" (152mm) down from the top of the fork tube.

Randy - RPM

I followed Randy's oil level recommendations when I did my forks last night, man what a difference. Let me give you some anti idiot advice. Don't start messing with your forks and look at the key in the ignition and tell yourself you should remove it and then not do it. MotherF$%&r are you kidding me did I just??? ...... Dammit Mike you idiot. Yes I hit the key and bent that somebiotch and screwed up the tin ignition cover.

[FJ_Hooligan]

WTF is that supposed to mean?  Can you translate that into English?