Just dusted off my FJ, Cleaned all the green puss from Carbies, Put a new battery in and it Started first push of the button.
A bit smokey, rough running and doesn't idle. Can anyone assist or suggest what I need to do now
Should I have put in new Jets instead of cleaning old ones.
I know I need to do brake lines but at present it stops just doesn't go real flash
If it doesn't idle, I would bet that you need to go back into the carbs again and make certain that all the passages in the carb bodies a cleaned out. There's a variety ow ways to do this, with ultrasonic cleaning to be the method of choice. After ten years of sitting, you may need to do this. New o-rings throughout the carbs is a must to. You may need new float needles too, as well as new pilot jets. Buy those in size #40 too, if you get them. When done with that, make sure the float levels are set right.
If you have a non-OEM air filter that's foam, clean, then oil it. If it's an OEM one, replace it with like, or aftermarket. Put in new spark plugs that are gapped to spec, set your valve clearances to spec, start it, warm it up, set your idle to spec (if possible), and synchronize your carbs.
You'r bike's smoking can be related to a number of things, since it sat for ten years, it could be dried out valve seals. If it just smokes at start up, and doesn't burn oil outside of that, you can live with the smoke at start up. Your bike is due for a good running, once you get it sorted to the above.
There's a lot that is not covered, but the above is a start and there are many people that can help you here too, and I am sure that they will chime in.
I would suggest using Google to search for items and/or topics that you want info on. A lot of these things you have or will have questions on, have been asked about, and covered a number of times over the years on this site. When doing your Google searches, put FJowners.com in the search field with the information that you're looking for.
Good luck!
The carbs need to be real clean. When you say does not idle, is that with or with out the choke? If without the choke then the pilot jets and or pilot circuits are still clogged. Clean them again. Get an ultrasonic tank from Harbor Freight, many here have good things to say about it.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 03:40:24 AM
Just dusted off my FJ, Cleaned all the green puss from Carbies, Put a new battery in and it Started first push of the button.
A bit smokey, rough running and doesn't idle. Can anyone assist or suggest what I need to do now
Should I have put in new Jets instead of cleaning old ones.
I know I need to do brake lines but at present it stops just doesn't go real flash
mmmmm....sounds like Aussie lingo. Where ya from mate? :drinks:
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on April 09, 2015, 04:50:41 AM
If it doesn't idle, I would bet that you need to go back into the carbs again and make certain that all the passages in the carb bodies a cleaned out. There's a variety ow ways to do this, with ultrasonic cleaning to be the method of choice. After ten years of sitting, you may need to do this. New o-rings throughout the carbs is a must to. You may need new float needles too, as well as new pilot jets. Buy those in size #40 too, if you get them. When done with that, make sure the float levels are set right.
If you have a non-OEM air filter that's foam, clean, then oil it. If it's an OEM one, replace it with like, or aftermarket. Put in new spark plugs that are gapped to spec, set your valve clearances to spec, start it, warm it up, set your idle to spec (if possible), and synchronize your carbs.
You'r bike's smoking can be related to a number of things, since it sat for ten years, it could be dried out valve seals. If it just smokes at start up, and doesn't burn oil outside of that, you can live with the smoke at start up. Your bike is due for a good running, once you get it sorted to the above.
There's a lot that is not covered, but the above is a start and there are many people that can help you here too, and I am sure that they will chime in.
I would suggest using Google to search for items and/or topics that you want info on. A lot of these things you have or will have questions on, have been asked about, and covered a number of times over the years on this site. When doing your Google searches, put FJowners.com in the search field with the information that you're looking for.
Good luck!
Ok, so I'll pull carbies off and rebuild with new kits, no worries. Now size #40 pilot jets, I have looked but cannot seem to find any yet but will keep trying.
OEM air filter is new. Plugs are new. Valve Clearances haven't checked (always had a ticking noise while idling) yet, just trying to get it going first
Smoke has mostly gone
and yes it does need a good run
Thanks for the info
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 09, 2015, 04:54:10 AM
The carbs need to be real clean. When you say does not idle, is that with or with out the choke? If without the choke then the pilot jets and or pilot circuits are still clogged. Clean them again. Get an ultrasonic tank from Harbor Freight, many here have good things to say about it.
Never did Idle with choke all the way on, and always did take a bit to warm and idle with no choke.
Turned the Idle screw up today and it did work but after a quick rev would stay at 2000 and slowly drop back but..
it seems to misfire or reluctant to rev up, really have to get the revs up to take off or it won't go but stall
I think as you have mentioned Clean the Carbies again, just have to find a Ultrasonic Tank that doesn't have to be shipped from Overseas
Quote from: The General on April 09, 2015, 05:25:53 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 03:40:24 AM
Just dusted off my FJ, Cleaned all the green puss from Carbies, Put a new battery in and it Started first push of the button.
A bit smokey, rough running and doesn't idle. Can anyone assist or suggest what I need to do now
Should I have put in new Jets instead of cleaning old ones.
I know I need to do brake lines but at present it stops just doesn't go real flash
mmmmm....sounds like Aussie lingo. Where ya from mate? :drinks:
You are correct, Just a stones throw away from where Capt Cook stepped off
Did you remove the idle mixture screws when you cleaned the carbs? If not, then you need to re-clean the idle circuit. Everything must be removed from the carbs to get them really clean. If you don't do that you're just wasting your time.
What you are describing is a classic symptom of a clogged idle circuit. When you get it revved up, you are transitioning off the idle circuit and onto the needle circuit.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 06:31:23 AM
Quote from: The General on April 09, 2015, 05:25:53 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 03:40:24 AM
Just dusted off my FJ, Cleaned all the green puss from Carbies, Put a new battery in and it Started first push of the button.
A bit smokey, rough running and doesn't idle. Can anyone assist or suggest what I need to do now
Should I have put in new Jets instead of cleaning old ones.
I know I need to do brake lines but at present it stops just doesn't go real flash
mmmmm....sounds like Aussie lingo. Where ya from mate? :drinks:
You are correct, Just a stones throw away from where Capt Cook stepped off
Haaaha.....A lot would wonder how I picked that! :hi: Welcome friend.
Not only are we sophisticated but you got some great mates nearby that can physically help after ya had a second go at them carbs. (or sooner!). Heading down to the Gong, even Nowra to Bermagui! From central to the Blue mountains a couple and even central coast. Check out zeemaps under "introductions" or PM me anytime. (I`ll be in Wangi end of this month too!) :drinks:
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 09, 2015, 09:57:59 AM
Did you remove the idle mixture screws when you cleaned the carbs? If not, then you need to re-clean the idle circuit. Everything must be removed from the carbs to get them really clean. If you don't do that you're just wasting your time.
What you are describing is a classic symptom of a clogged idle circuit. When you get it revved up, you are transitioning off the idle circuit and onto the needle circuit.
Mate, they and the pilot air jets were about the only ones I didn't take out, so yes I did waste my time then by the look of it.
I thought with the idle mixture screw it was above all the green puss but sounds like I was wrong,
I know I can take the mixture screws out without removing carbs but it cannot be that easy, can it?
The whole idle circuit needs to be blown clean, correct?
Quote from: The General on April 09, 2015, 10:43:27 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 06:31:23 AM
Quote from: The General on April 09, 2015, 05:25:53 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 03:40:24 AM
Just dusted off my FJ, Cleaned all the green puss from Carbies, Put a new battery in and it Started first push of the button.
A bit smokey, rough running and doesn't idle. Can anyone assist or suggest what I need to do now
Should I have put in new Jets instead of cleaning old ones.
I know I need to do brake lines but at present it stops just doesn't go real flash
mmmmm....sounds like Aussie lingo. Where ya from mate? :drinks:
You are correct, Just a stones throw away from where Capt Cook stepped off
Haaaha.....A lot would wonder how I picked that! :hi: Welcome friend.
Not only are we sophisticated but you got some great mates nearby that can physically help after ya had a second go at them carbs. (or sooner!). Heading down to the Gong, even Nowra to Bermagui! From central to the Blue mountains a couple and even central coast. Check out zeemaps under "introductions" or PM me anytime. (I`ll be in Wangi end of this month too!) :drinks:
I did see a couple close by, tried to pin my location, still waiting
Maybe didn't do it correctly, thanks
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 06:31:23 AM
You are correct, Just a stones throw away from where Capt Cook stepped off
That would make you our first member in Alice Springs, welcome.
Noel
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 10, 2015, 04:57:04 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 09, 2015, 09:57:59 AM
Did you remove the idle mixture screws when you cleaned the carbs? If not, then you need to re-clean the idle circuit. Everything must be removed from the carbs to get them really clean. If you don't do that you're just wasting your time.
What you are describing is a classic symptom of a clogged idle circuit. When you get it revved up, you are transitioning off the idle circuit and onto the needle circuit.
Mate, they and the pilot air jets were about the only ones I didn't take out, so yes I did waste my time then by the look of it.
I thought with the idle mixture screw it was above all the green puss but sounds like I was wrong,
I know I can take the mixture screws out without removing carbs but it cannot be that easy, can it?
The whole idle circuit needs to be blown clean, correct?
I am afraid there are no short cuts when it comes the cleaning the carbs. It's the little stuff that gets you. Pilot jets are so small and almost anything can plug them up. If it were me I would pull the carbs and completely disassemble them, the emulsion tubes can also get plugged in the small side holes. Run some cleaner in all the holes and passage ways then blow them out at a minimum.
A few have been able to "improve" there running condition by removing the fuel/air screws and spraying cleaner down into the hole. But that is a long shot. If you do don't loose the spring, washer or very
small "O" ring on each fuel/air screw. You might try that an add some cleaner to the fuel then run it for awhile.
You know about unbolting the 2 rear sub frame bolts so you can tilt down the rear sub frame for more clearance to remove the air box easier ? A lot of members have replaced that stock air box with Uni Pods http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=24). Biggest benefit to me is that it makes working on the carbs a lot easier plus added space.
There is some good information in the Files section on carbs and cleaning that might also help. Nice to hear your are waking up the FJ after a long sleep :drinks:
George
Quote from: ribbert on April 10, 2015, 07:58:04 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 09, 2015, 06:31:23 AM
You are correct, Just a stones throw away from where Capt Cook stepped off
That would make you our first member in Alice Springs, welcome.
Noel
Sorry to get you excited Noel, I did mean Kurnell, Botany Bay. Probably phrased it wrong
Quote from: movenon on April 10, 2015, 09:33:39 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 10, 2015, 04:57:04 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 09, 2015, 09:57:59 AM
Did you remove the idle mixture screws when you cleaned the carbs? If not, then you need to re-clean the idle circuit. Everything must be removed from the carbs to get them really clean. If you don't do that you're just wasting your time.
What you are describing is a classic symptom of a clogged idle circuit. When you get it revved up, you are transitioning off the idle circuit and onto the needle circuit.
Mate, they and the pilot air jets were about the only ones I didn't take out, so yes I did waste my time then by the look of it.
I thought with the idle mixture screw it was above all the green puss but sounds like I was wrong,
I know I can take the mixture screws out without removing carbs but it cannot be that easy, can it?
The whole idle circuit needs to be blown clean, correct?
I am afraid there are no short cuts when it comes the cleaning the carbs. It's the little stuff that gets you. Pilot jets are so small and almost anything can plug them up. If it were me I would pull the carbs and completely disassemble them, the emulsion tubes can also get plugged in the small side holes. Run some cleaner in all the holes and passage ways then blow them out at a minimum.
A few have been able to "improve" there running condition by removing the fuel/air screws and spraying cleaner down into the hole. But that is a long shot. If you do don't loose the spring, washer or very small "O" ring on each fuel/air screw. You might try that an add some cleaner to the fuel then run it for awhile.
You know about unbolting the 2 rear sub frame bolts so you can tilt down the rear sub frame for more clearance to remove the air box easier ? A lot of members have replaced that stock air box with Uni Pods http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod&cat=24). Biggest benefit to me is that it makes working on the carbs a lot easier plus added space.
There is some good information in the Files section on carbs and cleaning that might also help. Nice to hear your are waking up the FJ after a long sleep :drinks:
George
Where have you been George?
I will be looking for these 2 rear sub bolts, that would make it so much easier, I only loosened the air box which stayed in the frame and with a lot of difficulty removed the carbs.
With this information I won't even attempt just putting cleaner through the idle circuit, those carbs are coming out again.
I have read about 'the spring, the washer and the small o-ring'.
Not the best picture but next to the Uni Pod filters there is a silver tab (frame tab). The top empty hole is one of the bolt holes for the stock FJ air box below that there is a larger bolt, remove that bolt on both sides along with all the 10mm bolts into your air box (one on top, one one each side). The rear sub frame will now pivot down enough to help get the air box out. Do it while on the center stand..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/1651_20_01_15_4_14_43.jpeg)
George
Quote from: movenon on April 10, 2015, 04:46:55 PM
Not the best picture but next to the Uni Pod filters there is a silver tab (frame tab). The top empty hole is one of the bolt holes for the stock FJ air box below that there is a larger bolt, remove that bolt on both sides along with all the 10mm bolts into your air box (one on top, one one each side). The rear sub frame will now pivot down enough to help get the air box out. Do it while on the center stand..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/1651_20_01_15_4_14_43.jpeg)
George
That is a pretty Good picture, found them so easily
I could see nothing about these mentioned in the service manual under Carburetor Removal which I have just be looking in again
Its 8.21am here and the day just got much better to your photographic skills
Alan
George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.
I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again
Anybody got an idea?
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 03:36:27 AM
George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.
I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again
Anybody got an idea?
I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4 (check all of them and write down the data for future info). If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.
The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier. It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere. Less problems = more fun.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_27_11_13_5_33_25.jpeg)
George
Quote from: movenon on April 11, 2015, 09:04:15 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 03:36:27 AM
George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.
I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again
Anybody got an idea?
I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4 (check all of them and write down the data for future info). If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.
The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier. It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere. Less problems = more fun.
George
Plugs in 3&4 are black, 1&2 are a lot cleaner, I didn't have trouble starting after quick inspection of idle mixture screws (and I did loose little black o-ring, could see it anywhere so I undid those bolt, pushed the tail down, took carbs out, heat sheild out, then banged the carbs a bit and there was the little sucker) but it was revving way too high,
Backed idle screw off, then it wouldn't start, almost flattened battery, took out plugs and cleaned and reset gap.
It then started, that's when I noticed difference in Temp
I will do compression test tomorrow, I took note of turns from stop, none were the same. I reset all to 2 but after a bit of lite reading sounds like it should be 2.5-3 to start off.
Like you I'm not after performance with the filters but ease of maintenance. I still have stock pipes and 42 cog on the back
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.
Could also be a air balance issue from the #4 carb not getting enough air....try syncing the carbs.
I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once :dash2:)
Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago. (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!) :drinks:
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.
I did check float heights when I cleaned all the green puss out and all measured within tolerances
But I will be going back into these to give another clean with all possible jets out this time and with new ones to go back in with a size #40 also
I'll be doing compression test today and seeing a few mates if they have a set of vacuum gauges
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 11, 2015, 10:06:13 AM
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.
Could also be a air balance issue from the #4 carb not getting enough air....try syncing the carbs.
I will be checking on a few mates to see if they have vacuum gauges or a carbtune kit, if that fails I'll be ordering a Carbtune Pro kit this arvo $202aud delivered within 5 days from Queensland or $140aud delivered within 5 days from the UK, I know who will get my hard earned..
Quote from: The General on April 11, 2015, 10:50:17 AM
I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once :dash2:)
Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago. (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!) :drinks:
Might move #4 to #1 that way I can measure temperatures, yeh sometimes its the easy ones that are hard
Like a call out because "I have no power" and when you get they you flick the power point switch on
Sounds like your a "Shire Boy"?
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 05:51:13 PM
Quote from: The General on April 11, 2015, 10:50:17 AM
I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once :dash2:)
Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago. (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!) :drinks:
Might move #4 to #1 that way I can measure temperatures, yeh sometimes its the easy ones that are hard
Like a call out because "I have no power" and when you get they you flick the power point switch on
Sounds like your a "Shire Boy"?
We must be psychic!....Prospect County Council 1966 to 1977. Now Integral energy me thinks! (Originally Holroyd Shire) ....I was a lunchtime eukka card champion....When the pot went to cash I wasn`t game ta tell them I was cheating!.....so me and the other apprentice backed off and bowed out gracefully....we put a great deal of value on our balls at the time! :drinks:
I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4 (check all of them and write down the data for future info). If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.
The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier. It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere. Less problems = more fun.
George
[/quote]
Compression test done, all sitting between 132 and 145, it says 175 in book, I hope these readings are ok
So it looks likely the carbs, waiting now for Sync kit to arrive
I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out
Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
The "reply" button is to the bottom right.
Brief interjection, no distraction.
Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.
Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 10:50:32 PM
I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out
Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
[/quote
Welcome Sparky84, I'm up the mid north coat near Taree, good to hear your getting the FJ back up and running, from my experience usually a cold cylinder means lack of fuel burn, this would most probably be the idle jets or float level, just a thought have you tried switching the fuel cock over to prime for ten seconds or so,
that will fill the carbs without cranking the motor, and hopefully fill the fuel bowls in the carbs, don't leave it switched over more then 20 seconds incase a needle seat is stuck and that can start to fill the piston running off that carb with fuel if your overflow pipes are blocked with anything, even those pesky little wasps can block breather and overflow lines, if after checking these simple things first then it's time to look at crap still floating around in your tank, then onto sticky valves, dead plugs "swap them around" and see if the pipe temp follows, then leads and caps, me I would check all that like others have said then rev the shit out of it cause I'm a sparky too lol, Good luck with her she'll be right mate it's an FJ
Quote from: theLeopard on April 12, 2015, 11:24:26 AM
Brief interjection, no distraction.
Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.
Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.
Thanks for the reminder.
That's not distraction, its on my list, clutch has been done as it slave was leaking, flushed fluid thru and waiting for leak to appear again but hasn't, bonus.
At present was just seeing if it runs, it does.
Now I can start ordering all relevant brake lines, and kits
And then the rest of other parts required, not too many.
It has left fairing damage, would be good to fix that to make it look pretty
Quote from: TimelessFJ on April 12, 2015, 11:38:56 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 10:50:32 PM
I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out
Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
[/quote
Welcome Sparky84, I'm up the mid north coat near Taree, good to hear your getting the FJ back up and running, from my experience usually a cold cylinder means lack of fuel burn, this would most probably be the idle jets or float level, just a thought have you tried switching the fuel cock over to prime for ten seconds or so,
that will fill the carbs without cranking the motor, and hopefully fill the fuel bowls in the carbs, don't leave it switched over more then 20 seconds incase a needle seat is stuck and that can start to fill the piston running off that carb with fuel if your overflow pipes are blocked with anything, even those pesky little wasps can block breather and overflow lines, if after checking these simple things first then it's time to look at crap still floating around in your tank, then onto sticky valves, dead plugs "swap them around" and see if the pipe temp follows, then leads and caps, me I would check all that like others have said then rev the shit out of it cause I'm a sparky too lol, Good luck with her she'll be right mate it's an FJ
Good Old Taree on the Manning river
That was the big smoke at Christmas time when we were camping (not caravaning) with the parents at Tuncurry Beach Caravan Park, for at least 18 years.
No I haven't tried to prime but will, overflow pipes are clean as a straw.
Swapped plugs already, checked spark on each lead (remember to short out plug one last time after cranking otherwise you get a slight belt from built up charge, feels good)
I think I'm going to have to give Randy from RPM (hope I got the names right) a bell about jet sizes, I noticed the carb kits have a #37.5 jet with it and I've been reading(and told) to get #40 but also not sure about whether I need a #112.5 or #117.5 to go with the #40.
Its idling at present now with a couple of coffs and splutters, which you don't notice while riding, took it out yesterday to the Gong via the coast road seemed OK, not to sure if forks are working to their full potential, that's on the list also.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 12, 2015, 02:56:02 PM
Quote from: theLeopard on April 12, 2015, 11:24:26 AM
Brief interjection, no distraction.
Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.
Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.
Thanks for the reminder.
That's not distraction, its on my list, clutch has been done as it slave was leaking, flushed fluid thru and waiting for leak to appear again but hasn't, bonus.
At present was just seeing if it runs, it does.
Now I can start ordering all relevant brake lines, and kits
And then the rest of other parts required, not too many.
It has left fairing damage, would be good to fix that to make it look pretty
yeah replace all that stuff.
Replace the bike qgile ur at it.
Ove bwen drinking.
Youll need randys oring kit, replace ALL the gaskets, replace anything rubber you can thin of tbh, clean the carbs, amd hope your seals arwnt turned to shit. The bike is bulletproof. Change the oil every 1500 or less andcheck your valve clearance.
Wouldnt be a bad idea to chech starterchain tension, run a compression check, & pour some seafoam thri the tank. 10yrs is a long time.
Here is some advice Randy gave me re: jet sizes for my 1100 running pod filters.
Okay, so to start the pilot jet needs to be 40.0 but maybe 42.5 depending on the air bleed jet in the mouth of the carb (155)or(160). The main jets are going to be between 112.5 & 117.5, but I would start at the smaller jet.
You might need to raise the main jet needle about .5mm(.020").
You should also slot the timing plate approximately the width of the screw & washer (about 3-4mm) to advance the ignition timing as well to wake up the bike.
There were a couple of different write ups with pictures on the forum on exactly how to do it, but you are grinding the hole openings clockwise.
Randy
I found the 42.5 pilot jet was too big and kept fouling the plugs. I also had to run a hotter plug (same reason)
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 13, 2015, 03:34:08 AM
Here is some advice Randy gave me re: jet sizes for my 1100 running pod filters.
Okay, so to start the pilot jet needs to be 40.0 but maybe 42.5 depending on the air bleed jet in the mouth of the carb (155)or(160). The main jets are going to be between 112.5 & 117.5, but I would start at the smaller jet.
You might need to raise the main jet needle about .5mm(.020").
You should also slot the timing plate approximately the width of the screw & washer (about 3-4mm) to advance the ignition timing as well to wake up the bike.
There were a couple of different write ups with pictures on the forum on exactly how to do it, but you are grinding the hole openings clockwise.
Randy
I found the 42.5 pilot jet was too big and kept fouling the plugs. I also had to run a hotter plug (same reason)
Mark
Thanks Mark for relaying this from Randy
I want to put Pods on as well, I'll put 40 and 112.5 in but also get a 117.5. The kits from RPM come with a 112.5 & 160, so I just need a 40 & 117.5 to go with the kits
So the main jet needle I need to shim up 0.5mm, do you know if they have a kit for this or just some small washers?
Hotter plugs worked?
I might change mine as they seem to be fouling up quick, maybe lack of a run and too much idle in garage.
The needle should have a series of groves at the top with a circlip ( will need to remove the slides for this). Mine is on the middle grove. Yes, hotter plugs worked. The standard NGK plugs are an 8, mine are now a 7 and no more fouled plugs.
Mark
Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them
So middle groove it is
Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 13, 2015, 05:53:19 AM
Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them
So middle groove it is
Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year
Yes cooling down a bit. Comfortable riding weather.
If there are no groves in the needle they are American issue. Japanese and European have 5 groves.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 13, 2015, 06:06:48 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 13, 2015, 05:53:19 AM
Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them
So middle groove it is
Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year
Yes cooling down a bit. Comfortable riding weather.
If there are no groves in the needle they are American issue. Japanese and European have 5 groves.
As long as there's no strong winds blowing, rains OK
Nothing was meant to be easy for me eh!
(//)
Caution following images might be disturbing
(//)
You seem to have a little bit of crud in your carb mate.
You need a good deep cleaning of all passage ways and jets. IMO just buy new pilot jets. And don't forget to pull out the emulsion tubes.
George
Bike is going and usable and once I clean carbies 1 last time (for now anyway) and after I put new kits in and tune them,
then check valve clearances, what else should be done?
In the manual it says 10/30w motor oil for forks, is this correct?
I have what I think is standard gearing with 17/42 and always seems to be revving too hard, any suggestions would be good.
Should I replace all brake cylinder seals or just the fluid?
Just checked on RPM site for carb kit, it says out of stock for 84 FJ1100
Can I buy a 86 FJ1200 kit and buy other jets to suit?
With the gearing - I run 17/40 and that give around 4500 rpm at 100KPH. With 17/42 it should be like riding a unicycle - only one wheel on the ground. Would probably not hurt to put kits through the brake and clutch MC. Can't help with the weight of the shock oil. Depends on your weight and how hard you like the ride.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 15, 2015, 07:04:16 AM
Just checked on RPM site for carb kit, it says out of stock for 84 FJ1100
Can I buy a 86 FJ1200 kit and buy other jets to suit?
If you can't get your supply from RPM Racing after emailing or calling them direct, you can get your carb kits here:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByCategory.aspx?name=Carb&description=Petcocks+carb+kits+petcock+rebuild+kits+etc&category=01010305050102 (http://www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByCategory.aspx?name=Carb&description=Petcocks+carb+kits+petcock+rebuild+kits+etc&category=01010305050102)
They're a stand-up supplier too. I've used them for items myself. Mostly Kawasaki parts, but FJ stuff too.
Good luck!
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 15, 2015, 08:55:42 AM
With the gearing - I run 17/40 and that give around 4500 rpm at 100KPH. With 17/42 it should be like riding a unicycle - only one wheel on the ground. Would probably not hurt to put kits through the brake and clutch MC. Can't help with the weight of the shock oil. Depends on your weight and how hard you like the ride.
Are those revs right Mark, I'm running 17/39 on mine at present and 100 kph is about 3700 rpm
Quote from: Bones on April 15, 2015, 04:02:30 PM
Are those revs right Mark, I'm running 17/39 on mine at present and 100 kph is about 3700 rpm
That's what my gauges are telling me Tony. I know the speedo is only out by 2kph, and the sweet spot where all the vibrations disappear is 130 @ 6000 rpm. Maybe I am wrong on my cogs, but 17/40 is what I ordered.
Mark
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 15, 2015, 05:57:27 AM
In the manual it says 10/30w motor oil for forks, is this correct?
Hey Sparky
I and others have had good results from using 15 weight fork oil.
130mm down from the top of the tubes measured with springs out and full compressed .
Cheers
Darran
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 15, 2015, 04:51:22 PM
Quote from: Bones on April 15, 2015, 04:02:30 PM
Are those revs right Mark, I'm running 17/39 on mine at present and 100 kph is about 3700 rpm
That's what my gauges are telling me Tony. I know the speedo is only out by 2kph, and the sweet spot where all the vibrations disappear is 130 @ 6000 rpm. Maybe I am wrong on my cogs, but 17/40 is what I ordered.
Mark
Have a play around with this Mark, to do those revs at that speed with standard tyres and 17 tooth sprocket on the front, you would need a 48 tooth sprocket on the back. I assume the internal gear ratios between the FJ 11/12 are the same, so there's something skewy somewhere. :pardon:
http://www.gearingcommander.com (http://www.gearingcommander.com)
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 15, 2015, 07:04:16 AM
Just checked on RPM site for carb kit, it says out of stock for 84 FJ1100
Can I buy a 86 FJ1200 kit and buy other jets to suit?
Here you go, complete kits, good quality, great price. http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/ky-0559-carb-repair-and-parts-kit (http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/ky-0559-carb-repair-and-parts-kit)
I just received 4 kits for my '92, unfortunately our crap dollar still is stopping me from ordering overseas from Randy. I gave up trying to clean my emulsion tubes etc, they were disgusting.
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 13, 2015, 07:14:51 AM
Caution following images might be disturbing
(//)
It's a tribute to the FJ it ran at all
Have a play around with this Mark, to do those revs at that speed with standard tyres and 17 tooth sprocket on the front, you would need a 48 tooth sprocket on the back. I assume the internal gear ratios between the FJ 11/12 are the same, so there's something skewy somewhere.
We can check it out at the men's shed day Tony.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 16, 2015, 07:51:56 AM
Have a play around with this Mark, to do those revs at that speed with standard tyres and 17 tooth sprocket on the front, you would need a 48 tooth sprocket on the back. I assume the internal gear ratios between the FJ 11/12 are the same, so there's something skewy somewhere.
We can check it out at the men's shed day Tony.
Urb, are you sure you were in
5th when you checked the revs? You wouldn't be the first.
One of our esteemed, long time owner and big mileage members rode a
very long way in 4th on the open road once (not me)
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on April 16, 2015, 10:26:13 AM
Urb, are you sure you were in 5th when you checked the revs? You wouldn't be the first.
One of our esteemed, long time owner and big mileage members rode a very long way in 4th on the open road once (not me)
Noel
Hey Noel - No. Pretty sure in 5th....used to riding a 6 speed bike and I keep looking for one more gear. But I have been known to be wrong before.
Mark (sorry if I am hijacking your thread Sparky)
Quote from: X-Ray on April 16, 2015, 05:06:19 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 15, 2015, 07:04:16 AM
Just checked on RPM site for carb kit, it says out of stock for 84 FJ1100
Can I buy a 86 FJ1200 kit and buy other jets to suit?
Here you go, complete kits, good quality, great price. http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/ky-0559-carb-repair-and-parts-kit (http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/ky-0559-carb-repair-and-parts-kit)
I just received 4 kits for my '92, unfortunately our crap dollar still is stopping me from ordering overseas from Randy. I gave up trying to clean my emulsion tubes etc, they were disgusting.
I have been looking everywhere for something like this nearby.
Had a look, not a bad price and in stock but I have read a few things bad about Keyster Carb Kits,
mainly with slide needle shape being different and not performing properly in mid range and some parts not looking the same as what they are replacing
But maybe as usual when products don't perform everybody speaks up and when they are good no one says anything because they're satisfied
(//)
Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 16, 2015, 04:57:05 PM
Quote from: ribbert on April 16, 2015, 10:26:13 AM
Urb, are you sure you were in 5th when you checked the revs? You wouldn't be the first.
One of our esteemed, long time owner and big mileage members rode a very long way in 4th on the open road once (not me)
Noel
Hey Noel - No. Pretty sure in 5th....used to riding a 6 speed bike and I keep looking for one more gear. But I have been known to be wrong before.
Mark (sorry if I am hijacking your thread Sparky)
Its useful info for me too,
I still keep going for 6th due (to what I feel) to be high revs for the speed
Last bike before FJ was a 81 Z1300 it was for memory felt like 2500 to 3000 rpm to 100kph in 5th, just ticking over
Hey Noel - No. Pretty sure in 5th....used to riding a 6 speed bike and I keep looking for one more gear. But I have been known to be wrong before.
Mark (sorry if I am hijacking your thread Sparky)
[/quote]
I've been trying to find that mystery 6th since 80's :biggrin:
'84's are special emulsion tubes, aka needle jets, aka jet nozzles... The later model FJ carbs use different slides and those later model emulsion tubes will not work correctly with the slides on your '84 carbs.
If the holes in the base are not elongated (from needle wear) soak them in laquer thinner and clean and reuse them.
Randy at RPM may have a new set for you...they are getting hard to come by.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2015, 05:42:55 PM
'84's are special emulsion tubes, aka needle jets, aka jet nozzles... The later model FJ carbs use different slides and those later model emulsion tubes will not work correctly with the slides on your '84 carbs.
If the holes in the base are not elongated (from needle wear) soak them in laquer thinner and clean and reuse them.
Randy at RPM may have a new set for you...they are getting hard to come by.
RPM have just been in touch and told me the same, but Nil stock at present
I didn't notice any major needle wear, I have made inquiries about a Keyster kit, whether they will fit or be a problem
(//)
I checked the new kit I recieved against the old parts, looks pretty spot on, although I haven't had time to do the rebuild yet. For an example of what I found when I pulled my carbs apart, have a look here (be afraid, be very afraid :) )
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0)
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 16, 2015, 06:22:23 PM
I have made inquiries about a Keyster kit, whether they will fit or be a problem
Maybe you will get lucky with Keyster...but I doubt it. Sure, they will tell you their tubes fit, but will they?
I went through this with Factory Pro here in the states. Factory Pro is the leader in carb tuning, none better.
They swore they were right. They referred me to the official Yamaha microfiche on line. I looked it up.
Sure enough, even Yamaha fucked up. They list the same emulsion tube for all FJ's. Wrong Wrong Wrong.
I'm here to tell you that Yamaha, Factory Pro, Dyno Jet, and very probably Keyster, are wrong. The vendors are wrong because they are relying on information from Yamaha...and Yamaha is wrong. ...shudder.
****The '84 FJ1100 carbs that have the flat bottom slides, use a different emulsion tube than later FJ carbs that have a curved bottom slides****
Listen to Randy. He is the only vendor who gets it.....
I still can't believe Yamaha got it wrong.... Look it up. You will see.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2015, 08:22:24 PM
****The '84 FJ1100 carbs that have the flat bottom slides, use a different emulsion tube than later FJ carbs that have a curved bottom slides****
I found out this is true last week... decided the '84 needed to have clean carbs, so out to visit RPM. My flat bottom slides were installed with the "shrouded" emulsion tubes that go with the newer curved bottom slides. Robert pulls out 4 kits for the '84 and the e-tubes don't have the shroud... they are very obviously different from the shrouded version (the "shroud" is what I'm calling the curved part of the e-tube that sticks up into the carb throat).
I haven't asked yet, but I suspect the PO (the CBX guru) ordered the replacement tubes from Yamaha and they sent the wrong version as Pat says. The shrouded emulsion tubes worked fine with the early slides however...
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on April 17, 2015, 09:03:29 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2015, 08:22:24 PM
****The '84 FJ1100 carbs that have the flat bottom slides, use a different emulsion tube than later FJ carbs that have a curved bottom slides****
I found out this is true last week... decided the '84 needed to have clean carbs, so out to visit RPM. My flat bottom slides were installed with the "shrouded" emulsion tubes that go with the newer curved bottom slides. Robert pulls out 4 kits for the '84 and the e-tubes don't have the shroud... they are very obviously different from the shrouded version (the "shroud" is what I'm calling the curved part of the e-tube that sticks up into the carb throat).
I haven't asked yet, but I suspect the PO (the CBX guru) ordered the replacement tubes from Yamaha and they sent the wrong version as Pat says. The shrouded emulsion tubes worked fine with the early slides however...
Frank
Ah yes I can see that shroud in X-Ray's resto project. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0)
Compared to mine in photos above, 84 only projects into throttle body slightly, where shroud is the to direct airflow possible as to say
So that shroud is the only difference between 84 and other models?
I think the wait for these carb parts is going to kill me.
So this weekend I think carbs will get another full strip down and clean
All jets and passageways will be flushed no orifice will be left out
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 17, 2015, 02:04:36 PM
So that shroud is the only difference between 84 and other models?
If you are referring to the emulsion tube, yes. As far a I could tell, the tubes are the same with the exception of the shroud...No shroud '84/85..... Shroud's on '86-93 (curved slides from '86 on)
Along with different float needle seats on the gravity flow ('84-'87) vs. the fuel pump carbs ('89-93)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
I do have to respectfully disagree with my favorite sub Commander. Based on my experience, the emulsion tubes with shrouds on my '84 did not make my bike run right. Was it from the shrouds holding the flat bottom slides slightly more open? Dunno, that's my theory.
I know that when I cleaned and reinstalled my original etubes the bike idled better.
I have since replaced my original 30 year old carbs with the new rack of carbs (with curved slides) so the issue is moot for me.
They made the change to shrouded e-tubes some time during the '85 production run. Mine were shrouded and the slides have more "cutaway" at the bottom.
I remember working on a friend's '85 and it had some really wonky DJ kit installed for the '84/early '85 models. The needles were hugh blunt rods and the main jets were 185. His FJ didn't run anywhere as good as mine.
Mmmm, just on the speed/rpm side of things , I just checked mine again on a ride. So 18/38 gives me --
100 kph = 3250 rpm
110 kph = 3500 rpm
:good2:
Quote from: X-Ray on April 18, 2015, 01:47:02 AM
Mmmm, just on the speed/rpm side of things , I just checked mine again on a ride. So 18/38 gives me --
100 kph = 3250 rpm
110 kph = 3500 rpm
:good2:
Ray, I've got 18/41. Since fitting the GPS HUD I no longer look at the speedo but at 105 kph true speed I'm hovering around 4000 rpm. I like it because that's where the engine smooths out, I wouldn't want the revs any lower. Even that gearing has taken the edge off acceleration, I wouldn't want to lose any more, which I know is entirely a personal choice. There is no right or wrong with gearing, just what suits your riding style.
Noel
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 17, 2015, 02:10:49 PM
...another full strip down...
All passageways will be flushed no orifice will be left out...
Sounds like my last date.
Quote from: rlucas on April 18, 2015, 05:49:29 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 17, 2015, 02:10:49 PM
...another full strip down...
All passageways will be flushed no orifice will be left out...
Sounds like my last date.
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Carbs were stripped, flushed and blow dried, still don't like the OEM air box as it gets in the way when refitting carbs.
This time I took note of jet sizes, #40, #112.5 and #160.
Set mixture screw to 2 1\4 turns back. Idles nicely now(//)
After installation bike started only after charging battery, that's the problem.
Anybody got a Lithium battery fitted?
They seem to start the bike quick but don't seem to last with headlights and other bits on, voltage drops instantaneously
On idle with lights off 11.8 volts going into battery, 10.4 with lights on and 14.5 sitting at about 2000rpm,
Does this sound correct or is it overcharging while riding
I have a lithium battery. I don't recall the idle charging voltage but under way cruising down the road mine at present is charging 14.3 - 14.4 volts. If you like tomorrow I can check my idle charging rate. The spec's such as they are claim my battery is good up to a max charging voltage of 15.5 volts. A lot of the spec's for any of the lithium's depends on the management circuits or control board inside the battery. Some just have a balancing circuit some have balancing, over voltage protection, auto shut off if no charge is present after a specified time, heat protection, low voltage shut off etc.
George
Quote from: movenon on April 25, 2015, 12:55:58 AM
I have a lithium battery. I don't recall the idle charging voltage but under way cruising down the road mine at present is charging 14.3 - 14.4 volts. If you like tomorrow I can check my idle charging rate. The spec's such as they are claim my battery is good up to a max charging voltage of 15.5 volts. A lot of the spec's for any of the lithium's depends on the management circuits or control board inside the battery. Some just have a balancing circuit some have balancing, over voltage protection, auto shut off if no charge is present after a specified time, heat protection, low voltage shut off etc.
George
Thanks George that would be Great
Did I see somewhere that you fitted a gauge or regulator in the forum somewhere?
Just trying to find out if I have a dud battery or not.
Its a Skyrich SSB Powersport, LFP14AHQ-BS, supposedly the correct one
I have an adjustable voltage regulator. My stock regulator failed or was failing. It was charging over 15.2 volts which was at or very near the Yamaha limits. So I elected to go with an external adjustable unit. For me the external regulator is cheaper, easier to service, adjustable and it removes some of the heat out of the alternator.
Installing a digital volt meter it is an inexpensive (e bay) and easy mod. . Nice to know the voltage at all times. Analog meter is good also and preferred by some.
George
Quote from: movenon on April 25, 2015, 01:48:13 AM
I have an adjustable voltage regulator. My stock regulator failed or was failing. It was charging over 15.2 volts which was at or very near the Yamaha limits. So I elected to go with an external adjustable unit. For me the external regulator is cheaper, easier to service, adjustable and it removes some of the heat out of the alternator.
Installing a digital volt meter it is an inexpensive (e bay) and easy mod. . Nice to know the voltage at all times. Analog meter is good also and preferred by some.
George
My digital meter at present requires me to pull the seat off and hold the probes on the battery terminals, :biggrin:
OK here is what I have. Here in the U.S. we can not turn the headlight off (unless we mod the switch). Lots of small variables. My headlight, tail light and cluster lights are LED's (less current draw), Coil relay mod., External adjustable voltage regulator. Import 4 brush starter 2 years old, Relatively a fresh/new battery. I am not saying that my battery is any better or worse than any other. It is just what I am using so you will know what I am referencing from.
Battery: http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor (http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor)
Oil Temp 61 degrees
Ignition switched on, with headlight and taillight on, not cranking. 13.0 volts
I watched the volt meter during cranking and it dipped briefly to 11.9 volts.
Cold idle for the first few seconds after start up 13.7 volts
Stabilized charging voltage (with in 60-90 seconds of start up) 14.3-14.4 volts.
Bike fired right away on the first try with small amount of choke.
A little off target but here is a video of a cold start procedure for a lithium battery. But in general it applies to starting with a lithium battery.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk)
George
Quote from: movenon on April 25, 2015, 10:31:47 AM
OK here is what I have. Here in the U.S. we can not turn the headlight off (unless we mod the switch). Lots of small variables. My headlight, tail light and cluster lights are LED's (less current draw), Coil relay mod., External adjustable voltage regulator. Import 4 brush starter 2 years old, Relatively a fresh/new battery. I am not saying that my battery is any better or worse than any other. It is just what I am using so you will know what I am referencing from.
Battery: http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor (http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor)
Oil Temp 61 degrees
Ignition switched on, with headlight and taillight on, not cranking. 13.0 volts
I watched the volt meter during cranking and it dipped briefly to 11.9 volts.
Cold idle for the first few seconds after start up 13.7 volts
Stabilized charging voltage (with in 60-90 seconds of start up) 14.3-14.4 volts.
Bike fired right away on the first try with small amount of choke.
A little off target but here is a video of a cold start procedure for a lithium battery. But in general it applies to starting with a lithium battery.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk)
George
Good info George, thanks for taking the time to do that
It looks like from your data there mine is very similar except with lights on (could be LED lights) but my battery never recovers back to 12v after turning bike off,
It stays at 10.2, so I would say my battery is a Dud and I better fit a external voltmeter
What type of LED headlight do you have fitted?
And what is the light output like for distance?
Video was informative, at least he had a battery that kept recovering to 12v mine just doesn't recover
Quote from: movenon on April 25, 2015, 10:31:47 AM
Oil Temp 61 degrees
George
George, What gauge do you have fitted, I would find that very useful
Alan
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 25, 2015, 05:37:27 PM
Quote from: movenon on April 25, 2015, 10:31:47 AM
Oil Temp 61 degrees
George
George, What gauge do you have fitted, I would find that very useful
Alan
Only reason I mentioned the temp was that it was a cold engine. Here is a picture of the gage I am using. It is a LCD read out and is set up so that it reads the current temp and about every 5 seconds it will flash the highest temp it has seen. It stores that high temp reading until it cools down to below 130 degrees and then go's back above 130 degrees. A poor mans data log?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/1651_17_04_15_8_07_28.jpeg)
http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/722-es2 (http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/722-es2)
If I were to do it again I would shop around on e bay. Pay attension to the sender threads (I had to drill and tap my adapter). You will need an adapter like this no matter which unit you would buy. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39)
There are also some that replace the oil fill cap.
George
George, is that oil temp gauge illuminated for night riding? I think a oil temp gauge is a very good idea, not for seeing the max temp, but to see when the oil is up to proper operating temp (180*) before visiting the kookaloo zone.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 25, 2015, 08:34:35 PM
George, is that oil temp gauge illuminated for night riding? I think a oil temp gauge is a very good idea, not for seeing the max temp, but to see when the oil is up to proper operating temp (180*) before visiting the kookaloo zone.
Unfortunately no it is not lit but I don't find that a big problem. I like the feature of locking in the high temp because at the end of a ride or when I stop for fuel I can check it. With new rings, fresh head, new oil cooler etc. I wanted a small meter to monitor the temps. I have always been curious as to how the temps run in the FJ just for general knowledge. Last week in a 70 degree day at cruse 3-4500 with a surge up to 5500 RPM it was running 175-195. At one long city stop it hit 230. At a shorter stop it is easy to run at 200-210 degrees. That's my very limited experience with it. It will be interesting to follow during the summer. That's running some dino break in oil. As soon as I get 500 miles on it I will change to synthetic. I know you won't Pat but for others please don't start an oil thread... :dash2:.
In some ways it is probably nicer to not know how hot the oil gets in the FJ. :lol: But if I make changes I will have something to reference from.
On another subject that is dear to some of us. I bought a container of "Blue Magic Metal Polish" from Wall-Mart. And it is very similar to Semichrome. A little less expensive and readily available. It works.
George
Finally got time to Clean Front brake Calipers out, fit master cylinder kit and caliper seals and fit braided lines, They still work but lever is much Quieter, (if someone could explain how to put a short video up you will hear what my brake lever sounded like)
Now its time for the for Clutch Push Slave and Master Cylinder Kits,
Just 1 Question Should I get a Braided Line for this or use existing as the Line has a Metal Pipe running past the engine head which I assume is for heat protection and the OEM rubber ones would not have survived running that close to head
or will the braided be just as good as the metal pipe and survive the head from head?
and Yes I still have rear brake to do also
Engine temps are still higher by approx 15 degrees C on #4 side compared to #1
(//)
Hi Sparky,
All your hydraulic lines, brakes and clutch are now 31 years old.
They are well past their 'use by' date. They should all be replaced.
SS braided lines work fine for the clutch run.
You'll have much less hassle bleeding the clutch system if you fill it from the bleed nipple on the slave.
Use a disposable syringe and wrap a turn or two of teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder.
Those brake lines are absolutely in need of replacement too if they are the originals.
Fitting SS braided lines is the best improvement you can make to your braking.
Arnie
Thanks for that Arnie,
So the braided clutch line will be OK with the heat from cylinder head?
Yeh, first time I used a syringe was on the front brakes,
and the pressure was pushing fluid out pass thread of bleeder, so I did use Teflon tape on there and worked great.
Is the Teflon tape OK with heat from calipers though?
Alan
Quote from: Sparky84 on June 10, 2015, 02:29:45 PM
So the braided clutch line will be OK with the heat from cylinder head?
Yes, I changed
ALL of my brake and clutch lines out for S S braided lines on my '85, three years ago, with no problems :good2:
John.
Check the resistance of the spark plug caps they unscrew from the plug wires. Compare #4 with the others. Have you adjusted the carbs to get the butterflies to open at the same time? Back the idle screw out until the butterflies close completely then adjust the linkage (1 and 2 first then 3 and 4). That may bring the cold cylinder into action and make the carb sync easier.
Quote from: ct7088 on June 10, 2015, 08:53:01 PM
Check the resistance of the spark plug caps they unscrew from the plug wires. Compare #4 with the others. Have you adjusted the carbs to get the butterflies to open at the same time? Back the idle screw out until the butterflies close completely then adjust the linkage (1 and 2 first then 3 and 4). That may bring the cold cylinder into action and make the carb sync easier.
I'll test caps on the weekend, butterflies were checked.
Yes I still have to sync carbs.
Just waiting for some terrible days