84 FJ1100 Dusted off After 10 yrs, Help

[theLeopard]

Brief interjection, no distraction.

Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.

Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.

[TimelessFJ]

I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out


Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
[/quote

Welcome Sparky84, I'm up the mid north coat near Taree, good to hear your getting the FJ back up and running, from my experience usually a cold cylinder means lack of fuel burn, this would most probably be the idle jets or float level, just a thought have you tried switching the fuel cock over to prime for ten seconds or so,
that will fill the carbs without cranking the motor, and hopefully fill the fuel bowls in the carbs, don't leave it switched over more then 20 seconds incase a needle seat is stuck and that can start to fill the piston running off that carb with fuel if your overflow pipes are blocked with anything, even those pesky little wasps can block breather and overflow lines, if after checking these simple things first then it's time to look at crap still floating around in your tank, then onto sticky valves, dead plugs "swap them around" and see if the pipe temp follows, then leads and caps, me I would check all that like others have said then rev the shit out of it cause I'm a sparky too lol, Good luck with her she'll be right mate it's an FJ

[Sparky84]

Brief interjection, no distraction.

Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.

Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.

Thanks for the reminder.
That's not distraction, its on my list, clutch has been done as it slave was leaking, flushed fluid thru and waiting for leak to appear again but hasn't, bonus.
At present was just seeing if it runs, it does.

Now I can start ordering all relevant brake lines, and kits
And then the rest of other parts required, not too many.
It has left fairing damage, would be good to fix that to make it look pretty

[Sparky84]

I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out


Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
[/quote

Welcome Sparky84, I'm up the mid north coat near Taree, good to hear your getting the FJ back up and running, from my experience usually a cold cylinder means lack of fuel burn, this would most probably be the idle jets or float level, just a thought have you tried switching the fuel cock over to prime for ten seconds or so,
that will fill the carbs without cranking the motor, and hopefully fill the fuel bowls in the carbs, don't leave it switched over more then 20 seconds incase a needle seat is stuck and that can start to fill the piston running off that carb with fuel if your overflow pipes are blocked with anything, even those pesky little wasps can block breather and overflow lines, if after checking these simple things first then it's time to look at crap still floating around in your tank, then onto sticky valves, dead plugs "swap them around" and see if the pipe temp follows, then leads and caps, me I would check all that like others have said then rev the shit out of it cause I'm a sparky too lol, Good luck with her she'll be right mate it's an FJ

Good Old Taree on the Manning river
That was the big smoke at Christmas time when we were camping (not caravaning) with the parents at Tuncurry Beach Caravan Park, for at least 18 years.
No I haven't tried to prime but will, overflow pipes are clean as a straw.
Swapped plugs already, checked spark on each lead (remember to short out plug one last time after cranking otherwise you get a slight belt from built up charge, feels good)
I think I'm going to have to give Randy from RPM (hope I got the names right) a bell about jet sizes, I noticed the carb kits have a #37.5 jet with it and I've been reading(and told) to get #40 but also not sure about whether I need a  #112.5 or #117.5 to go with the #40.

Its idling at present now with a couple of coffs and splutters, which you don't notice while riding, took it out yesterday to the Gong via the coast road seemed OK, not to sure if forks are working to their full potential, that's on the list also.

[theLeopard]

Brief interjection, no distraction.

Flush your clutch MC, bleed the lines.
Do the same to your brakes as well.

Id suggest rebuilding your calipers while youre in there, mine were jammed with orange goop.

Thanks for the reminder.
That's not distraction, its on my list, clutch has been done as it slave was leaking, flushed fluid thru and waiting for leak to appear again but hasn't, bonus.
At present was just seeing if it runs, it does.

Now I can start ordering all relevant brake lines, and kits
And then the rest of other parts required, not too many.
It has left fairing damage, would be good to fix that to make it look pretty

yeah replace all that stuff.
Replace the bike qgile ur at it.

Ove bwen drinking.

Youll need randys oring kit, replace ALL the gaskets, replace anything rubber you can thin of tbh, clean the carbs, amd hope your seals arwnt turned to shit. The bike is bulletproof. Change the oil every 1500 or less andcheck your valve clearance.

[theLeopard]

Wouldnt be a bad idea to chech starterchain tension, run a compression check, & pour some seafoam thri the tank. 10yrs is a long time.

[Urban_Legend]

Here is some advice Randy gave me re: jet sizes for my 1100 running pod filters.

Okay, so to start the pilot jet needs to be 40.0 but maybe 42.5 depending on the air bleed jet in the mouth of the carb (155)or(160).  The main jets are going to be between 112.5 & 117.5, but I would start at the smaller jet.

You might need to raise the main jet needle about .5mm(.020").

You should also slot the timing plate approximately the width of the screw & washer (about 3-4mm) to advance the ignition timing as well to wake up the bike.

There were a couple of different write ups with pictures on the forum on exactly how to do it, but you are grinding the hole openings clockwise.

Randy


I found the 42.5 pilot jet was too big and kept fouling the plugs. I also had to run a hotter plug (same reason)

Mark

[Sparky84]

Here is some advice Randy gave me re: jet sizes for my 1100 running pod filters.

Okay, so to start the pilot jet needs to be 40.0 but maybe 42.5 depending on the air bleed jet in the mouth of the carb (155)or(160).  The main jets are going to be between 112.5 & 117.5, but I would start at the smaller jet.

You might need to raise the main jet needle about .5mm(.020").

You should also slot the timing plate approximately the width of the screw & washer (about 3-4mm) to advance the ignition timing as well to wake up the bike.

There were a couple of different write ups with pictures on the forum on exactly how to do it, but you are grinding the hole openings clockwise.

Randy


I found the 42.5 pilot jet was too big and kept fouling the plugs. I also had to run a hotter plug (same reason)

Mark

Thanks Mark for relaying this from Randy

I want to put Pods on as well, I'll put 40 and 112.5 in but also get a 117.5. The kits from RPM come with a 112.5 & 160, so I just need a 40 & 117.5 to go with the kits
So the main jet needle I need to shim up 0.5mm, do you know if they have a kit for this or just some small washers?

Hotter plugs worked?
I might change mine as they seem to be fouling up quick, maybe lack of a run and too much idle in garage.

[Urban_Legend]

The needle should have a series of groves at the top with a circlip ( will need to remove the slides for this). Mine is on the middle grove.  Yes, hotter plugs worked.  The standard NGK plugs are an 8, mine are now a 7 and no more fouled plugs.

Mark

[Sparky84]

Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them

So middle groove it is

Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year

[Urban_Legend]

Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them

So middle groove it is

Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year

Yes cooling down a bit. Comfortable riding weather.

If there are no groves in the needle they are American issue.  Japanese and European have 5 groves.

[Sparky84]

Good to know, I was just looking up the DPR7EA-9.
When I had the carbs apart I did remove needle from the slides for cleaning and saw the circlip (didn't pull it off) but didn't notice any grooves, though I wasn't really looking for them

So middle groove it is

Thanks, cooling down a bit in Grafton? Daylight savings gone for another year

Yes cooling down a bit. Comfortable riding weather.

If there are no groves in the needle they are American issue.  Japanese and European have 5 groves.

As long as there's no strong winds blowing, rains OK
Nothing was meant to be easy for me eh!

[Sparky84]

[Sparky84]

Caution following images might be disturbing

[Urban_Legend]

You seem to have a little bit of crud in your carb mate.