Offset countershaft sprocket.

[fj1289]

TRAC Dynamics said they can do an 18 tooth offset sprocket - for $89 and 3 weeks time. Ouch!

I'd like to see what Randy comes up with -- wonder if you can find a nut with the same thread but would fit a smaller wrench/socket?

[hein]

   I wouldn't lose too much sleep over the tab washer. The primary function is more to provide a flat washer between the bearing surfaces of the nut and the sprocket then it is to prevent a loss of clamp load. Clean the threads of the nut and the shaft carefully with contact cleaner, brake clean or Loctite primer and use either Loctite threadlocker #271 or #262 when you torque the nut down.

   I would still use the tab washer and even fold it over because it can't hurt but I place a lot more faith in loctite rather then a cheap soft washer.

    As far as the socket is concerned I would turn the outer diameter down on the lathe to allow it to fit. If you don't have a lathe ask your neighbor. Any machine shop can do this in less then 5 min.

Hein.

[fj johnnie]

 Thanks Hein! I already made a socket to fit. Used a bench grinder to mill it down so it just fits inside. Once you pointed out that you put more faith in thread lock than the washer I realized that the washer probably provides not much more than peace of mind. It will however fit with a little modification so I will continue to use it. Randy is getting a sprocket for me.

[FJmonkey]

Hein you dirty bastard!!! What is your status for the WCR???

And good advice on locking washer vs. thread lock. I would still put my money on the tabbed washer but thread lock tech is really good these days....

[ribbert]

I would still use the tab washer and even fold it over because it can't hurt but I place a lot more faith in loctite rather then a cheap soft washer.

Hein.

Not sure I share you confidence in loctite for that application, but what's wrong with the washer. Have you ever seen one fail?

Noel

[giantkiller]

Thanks George. I just ordered 2 VF1000 sprockets one 17t and one 18t JT sprockets. For $33 shipped off amazon. Can you run the original cover with them? Right now my gsxr wheel is just a little under 1/8"to off of center to the right  That 2mm of offset would make it almost perfect.

Oh yah and thanks for the link to the cbr forum for the f4i shock springs. I just ordered all the stuff to put the eibach 900 and spring on.

[hein]

Hi Noel.
  Like you I've been a mechanic for most of my working life and like you have seen a fair number of locking devices. I can't say I've ever seen one fail in this particular application but I have seen them fail in a number of others. To me tab and key washers were designed more to prevent a bolt or nut from "walking off" after losing the clamp load, similar to safety wire. Now if the clamp load is lost and adding enough cyclic stress I think the nut could make short work of the soft metal tab on the tab washer. The obvious goal is to prevent loss of clamp load and to that end I use locktite to better the odds. Even though I question the effectivenes of these washers I still use them.

No facts, just my opinion.
Hein.

[hein]

Good afternoon Mark.
   If the lockwasher your refering to is the standard split type I'm not a big fan. The amount of force or load needed to compress it is considerably lower than the required torque value of the fastener in most cases. To me at least you end up with a flat washer thats already broken. I do use internal and external tooth washers on small and low torque applications like electrical grounds. For bolt and nut applications I prefer locknuts or jamnuts along with flat washers on the load bearing surfaces. If paranoia strikes me I might add a drop or two of locktite. On bolts going into a threaded component I use whats appropriate, oil on threads, antiseize,  locktite or whatever special methods are needed.
   Have a close look at your FJ engine and tell me how many split type lockwashers you find.

Again, just an opinion.
Hein.

[FJmonkey]

Good afternoon Mark.
   If the lockwasher your refering to is the standard split type I'm not a big fan. The amount of force or load needed to compress it is considerably lower than the required torque value of the fastener in most cases. To me at least you end up with a flat washer thats already broken. I do use internal and external tooth washers on small and low torque applications like electrical grounds. For bolt and nut applications I prefer locknuts or jamnuts along with flat washers on the load bearing surfaces. If paranoia strikes me I might add a drop or two of locktite. On bolts going into a threaded component I use whats appropriate, oil on threads, antiseize,  locktite or whatever special methods are needed.
   Have a close look at your FJ engine and tell me how many split type lockwashers you find.

Again, just an opinion.
Hein.

Well hell then, try this: http://www.nord-lock.com/, Nord-Lock Demonstration Video

[hein]

Hi Mark.
   I watched the vidio on the nord-lock system. It seems to me that its a variation , albeit newer, of the Schnorr washer. I would say that in certain applications it would be a reasonable solution but in some it would be doomed to failure.

Opinion only.
Hein.

[FJmonkey]

Hi Mark.
   I watched the vidio on the nord-lock system. It seems to me that its a variation , albeit newer, of the Schnorr washer. I would say that in certain applications it would be a reasonable solution but in some it would be doomed to failure.

Opinion only.
Hein.

Then PM me so we can discuss, sounds interesting....

[ribbert]

Good afternoon Mark.
   If the lockwasher your refering to is the standard split type I'm not a big fan. The amount of force or load needed to compress it is considerably lower than the required torque value of the fastener in most cases. To me at least you end up with a flat washer thats already broken. I do use internal and external tooth washers on small and low torque applications like electrical grounds. For bolt and nut applications I prefer locknuts or jamnuts along with flat washers on the load bearing surfaces. If paranoia strikes me I might add a drop or two of locktite. On bolts going into a threaded component I use whats appropriate, oil on threads, antiseize,  locktite or whatever special methods are needed.
   Have a close look at your FJ engine and tell me how many split type lockwashers you find.

Again, just an opinion.
Hein.

Hein, I agree that force required to compress a spring / split washer is generally lower than the torque value of the fastener. As long as the washer is harder than the nut /bolt it will gouge the underside of the head and create a lip that stops the bolt turning. Haven't you ever nicked your finger on that burr on a nut that has had a spring washer on it?
It is also common after cracking a nut with a spring washer on it for it to drag for the first half turn until the washer is unloaded.
This of course only works if spring washers are treated as a single use item which nobody does, including me.

Loctite is brilliant and I use it on some combinations of thread pitch / vibration / torque but not very often. I don't see the need to fix a problem that isn't there.

The only vehicles I ever see that have a problem with loosening nut and bolts are those with rigid mounted motors and even then it is usually peripheral stuff that comes loose. Once tightened properly these are rarely recurring.

Early VW's had a problem with heads coming loose and it was fixed with a kit (form VW) that was simply new studs with a different thread pitch.

The only place I use it on the FJ is the brake rotors and the bolts that join the lower rails to the frame at the back. They seem prone to both coming loose and shearing. I have put high tensile bolts in there.

Mostly, manufacturers get it right when designing fasteners and until a problem presents itself I see no need to improve on it.

Noel

[FJSpringy]

Hi Mark.
   I watched the vidio on the nord-lock system. It seems to me that its a variation , albeit newer, of the Schnorr washer. I would say that in certain applications it would be a reasonable solution but in some it would be doomed to failure.

Opinion only.
Hein.

Then PM me so we can discuss, sounds interesting....

noooooooooo  discuss it in public so I can sit down with a beer and learn something 

[Arnie]

Yes, the first time I opened up the c/s cover after buying it with a bit over 35K kms, the nut was loose on the shaft and the c/s cover was keeping it and the c/s sprocket from coming off.  The tab washer did have the tabs bent, but it was not evident if they had been bent over tightly, nor do I know what torque the nut was tightened to.
So, this may have been a tab washer failure, or it could have been an inept mechanic.
I have had no problem with loose c/s sprockets since, and do use the tab washer.

Arnie

I would still use the tab washer and even fold it over because it can't hurt but I place a lot more faith in loctite rather then a cheap soft washer.

Hein.

Not sure I share you confidence in loctite for that application, but what's wrong with the washer. Have you ever seen one fail?

Noel

[hein]

Noel, the usefulness of a split lockwasher is a subject of endless debate and probably interesting over a bottle of single malt. Yes I've been bitten by the burr under the face of a bolt and nut on more than a few occassions. I agree that locking devices such as the split washers and many others should be one time use only. Treat them like condoms, use once and dispose.

Mark, I'll send you my expanded view of the Nord-Lock system this weekend.

Arnie, from my view you encountered two failures. Loss of clamp load and a tab washer failure.

Hein.