Clutch Holding Tool.

[Woodsman]

Noticed a bit of slippage on my clutch when giving it a wee bit of stick yesterday. It's possible it could be the mix of semi and fully which i stuck in (was left over from other bike changes). It's prob time the clutch was given some attention with 63 thou miles up on it.
Will i need the tool if i go ahead and beef up the clutch?
Thanks, Sean.

[ribbert]

Noticed a bit of slippage on my clutch when giving it a wee bit of stick yesterday. It's possible it could be the mix of semi and fully which i stuck in (was left over from other bike changes). It's prob time the clutch was given some attention with 63 thou miles up on it.
Will i need the tool if i go ahead and beef up the clutch?
Thanks, Sean.

You will be given a number of different options. The most popular being the adding of an additional clutch spring.
My clutch never fully recovered from synthetic oil and I did not want to increase the pull at the lever.
I replaced the spring and it improved but still slipped at WOT, high revs, high gears.
Even though my fibres were standard thickness, I replaced them next and now have a grippy clutch and have retained the light lever.

My personal view is that unless you have significantly increased the power of the motor there is no need to beef up the clutch, just replace it.
I did do the wire removal, wide plate at the back mod while I had it out. (it is written up here in great detail, step by step, with photos)
For this you do not need the clutch tool.

Noel

[Steve_in_Florida]

X2 on Noel's comment. No tool needed.

I chose to add the second OEM spring plate to the clutch stack. Ultimately, it solved the slippage problem, but my clutch lever _IS_ noticeably firmer, and tedious to hold in for long periods (traffic lights). I reckon that I need to start using one of those "grip firmer" spring-exercise tools!

The mod was easy to perform: Remove the clutch cover bolts and then remove the clutch spring bolts. They all came loose easily.

(I believe that) you need the clutch holding tool if you're going to remove the clutch basket itself, but you don't go that far if you're just messing with the clutch spring or fiber disc/steels stack.

Good luck, Sean.

...and eat your spinach!

Steve 

[rktmanfj]

I chose to add the second OEM spring plate to the clutch stack. Ultimately, it solved the slippage problem, but my clutch lever _IS_ noticeably firmer, and tedious to hold in for long periods (traffic lights). I reckon that I need to start using one of those "grip firmer" spring-exercise tools!


...and eat your spinach!

BTDT.

What you really need to do is add a more appropriate clutch m/c to go with that extra spring; FJR (or YZF750), etc, etc.

No spinach required.   

[Steve_in_Florida]

What you really need to do is add a more appropriate clutch m/c to go with that extra spring...

Mods, mods, mods...

Cheese and Rice!

It's on the list, dammit! One thing at a time.

[rktmanfj]

What you really need to do is add a more appropriate clutch m/c to go with that extra spring...

Mods, mods, mods...

Cheese and Rice!

It's on the list, dammit! One thing at a time.

Quit yer belly-aching... it gets you out of eating spinach.    

Plan on a new braided line to go with your new m/c, too.

[movenon]

What you really need to do is add a more appropriate clutch m/c to go with that extra spring...

Mods, mods, mods...

Cheese and Rice!

It's on the list, dammit! One thing at a time.

Boy that's the truth. It never ends... I have just scratched the surface and its getting worse..
George

[Pat Conlon]

Boy that's the truth. It never ends... I have just scratched the surface and its getting worse..

Bwhaaaahaaahaaa my evil plan is working....the virus is spreading....

[Woodsman]

So there are options galore on the slippy clutch issue. Now i have no intention of buying an fjr clutch as the one i have will do alright as long as i can get it to stop slipping.
Adding another spring results in a heavy pull with standard lever so i'll pass on that.
Replacing tired old spring with new and putting a thicker fibre plate at the back( whilst removing all bits suggested by Randy ), should in theory sort things and still leave a light clutch pull. Which is the way Noel has gone.

[Woodsman]

/quote]

Bwhaaaahaaahaaa my evil plan is working....the virus is spreading....
[/quote]

You're right there. I am waiting on my new xjr starter from RPM and already i am in the process of getting more bits for the clutch.

[Dads_FJ]

Right, no need to remove the outer clutch basket for a clutch job.  But... a slick way to hold the clutch basket if you ever do need to remove it, is to use a piece of brass rod, or sometimes I use a copper penny, between the gear teeth of of the clutch and the crank gear - like this:

[Steve_in_Florida]

Quit yer belly-aching... it gets you out of eating spinach.    

<small voice> ...but I *LIKE* spinach.   

[Woodsman]

[/quote]

Good idea but i'm Scots so all my pennies are kept in a well secured container. Will try and find a dowel.

[giantkiller]

 not a lib was talking about fjr master cylinder/ lever assembly not the clutch itself.


I bought the Barnett pressure plate and springs (and the full fiber plate replacement, have always done this to all my Yamaha ATVs) for the 86. I'm going to use the spring out of the 86 in the 87 to double the spring along with the full plate replacement.

[racerrad8]

Right, no need to remove the outer clutch basket for a clutch job.  But... a slick way to hold the clutch basket if you ever do need to remove it, is to use a piece of brass rod, or sometimes I use a copper penny, between the gear teeth of of the clutch and the crank gear

The problem is...


It is not the clutch basket that needs to be held, it is the clutch boss drive hub.


If you really need the holding tool, I have a brand new to add to inventory sitting in a box on my office floor. I will get it loaded up to the website early next week.

Randy - RPM