Recommended Chain Type?

[PeteGLH]

Hey all.

Spring time is just around the corner here and I absolutely have to replace my chain and sprockets before getting the ol' girl back on the streets.   I've been searching around the forum for the ideal sprocket ratio and definately thinking of going 18-38.   Seems to be the best compromise for my city driving (75%)  and the yearly highway trip with the guys (reduce highway RPM's a little).

I'm just a little stumped on the type of chain to purchase.  From my searches,  many people seem to be running EK chains,  just wondering on which exact type to buy.   There seems to be so many types and prices and I wouldn't want to cheap out on the chain,  but wouldn't want to go overprice if I don't need to (if you know what I mean)

Also,  with the 18 front sprocket,  will I have to worry about extra noise or harsh feel?   I understand that the standard 17 sprocket has some sort of dampener on it whereas most of the aftermarket 18 sprockets don't seem to have them.

Thanks for the input / redirection.   (I would have thought there would be a sticky on this topic somewhere around this forum!)

[movenon]

I am about to order a new chain and have settled on a 530 EK ZZZ. Full in cost I think is 157.00 for the one I am looking at. I have a cheap chain on right now BUT I am real nervous about it holding up. It's in good shape just cheap... When the chain lets go it can and has caused a lot of permanent damage to your motor not to mention your body. If that's any help.
George

[racerman_27410]

I will vote for the ZZZ chain .... Brutus was eating DID ZVM's for lunch ( one a year on average)

switched to the EKZZZ chain on referral from a friend of mine who rides a turbo busa .

In 5 years since i have not had to adjust the chain for any reason other than tire changes.

good stuff!


Kookaloo!

[Pat Conlon]

My 2 top contenders are the EK ZZZ and the DID ZVM2, you can't go wrong with either one. I have the DID's on both blokes and they are holding up very very well...as in no stretch at all.
Yes, the oem Yamaha counter sprocket had a rubber damper for noise purposes only, the aftermarket non dampened sprockets are fine to use.
Re: ratio's. The 18 tooth counter sprocket, having a larger diameter, is a bit gentler on the chain.
The best ratio I have found with a stock engine is 18-40. It all depends on your riding style.

Cheers!

[andyoutandabout]

+1 on a DID. I'm a budget conscious biker,  but I'll "invest" real money in tires, chains and brake pads.
Andy

[PeteGLH]

Thanks for the input fellas. 

Will be going the EK ZZZ route for sure.  Since it will be my first time purchasing a chain (and I will be purchasing online) it isn't always clear if the rivet link is included with the chain...  Can you guys advise?  Just trying to get everything ready for the install and not get stalled up with what I like to call:  surprises.

Thanks for the feedback,  much appreciated.

[oldktmdude]

    I bought a new EK ZZZ about a month ago and it came supplied with the rivet link. Be aware that you require a chain riveting tool to install this rivet link. It can be done with 2 hammers but I would not take the risk using this method.    Pete.     

[bigbore2]

The 18/38 gearing is fine for the city, stop and go, and much, much better for the highway, just did a 3300 mi. trip last fall and glad I wasn't using 17/42.  However I got a 17/42 gearing for city driving and for tuning so I can get the punch out of the engine I like. 18/38 is just too smooth for my tastes around town. I just switch gearing out for trips and such. 

[movenon]

    I bought a new EK ZZZ about a month ago and it came supplied with the rivet link. Be aware that you require a chain riveting tool to install this rivet link. It can be done with 2 hammers but I would not take the risk using this method.    Pete.     

Did the link come with the spacers/shims to prevent over tightening the link when riveted ?

If I didn't have the tool then I would rivet it off the bike using a vise or iron to back it up while riveting with a hammer and punch. If it comes with shims this helps a lot to avoid over riveting the link. You would have to remove the rear wheel and disconnect the swing arm to install. That's really not that difficult. (or maybe I have had to much experience doing that that....).

I haven't ordered it yet, but I am planning on the same chain. Its been well over 25 years since I have had to deal with a chain.
George

[Pat Conlon]

Invest in a riveting tool. Do the job right.
The best chain in the world will do no good if that master link comes apart.

[fj11.5]

trust me, take pats advice 

[movenon]

trust me, take pats advice 

I think you have forced some of us (me) to do a little soul searching on the chain issue. Have you decided to pull the motor for repair yet ?
George

[fj11.5]

still unsure to take it out,  or have it welded in the frame, ,if i take it out i know ill pull the ambulance apart and just use that engine, has a lot less klm,s,  then just fix effies anyway

[movenon]

Sounds like it might be better to just use the ambulance motor. Take some of the "fix it" pressure off you. I have never pulled the engine out but looking and reading about it. It doesn't look that hard to do. Gives you a little time to do a good fix on your motor. Kinda hard to get a good weld with it in the frame isn't it ?
George

[fj11.5]

sure would make things easier at the moment just to use the other engine,, been wanting to try it with my gearing  ,, yes welding would be much easier with it out, especially the broken mount,  the oil leaking bolt bracket would be easy to weld or maybe jb epoxy putty if i was desperate