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RPM fork valve installation??

Started by gripit_N_ripit, January 22, 2013, 07:24:49 PM

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gripit_N_ripit

okay guys I know Im supposed to have a repair manual to refer to but I do not.... I am installing the RPM fork valves.... My only question is Do I have to remove to Damper rod to install the valves?? Thanks in advance.
Curtis

FJmonkey

Quote from: gripit_N_ripit on January 22, 2013, 07:24:49 PM
okay guys I know Im supposed to have a repair manual to refer to but I do not.... I am installing the RPM fork valves.... My only question is Do I have to remove to Damper rod to install the valves?? Thanks in advance.

Did instructions come with it? The D-Rod needs to be cut and re used to help adjust the pre-load. About 2 inches from the top to do the job. Or am I off the mark?
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

racerrad8

No, the damper rod needs to be properly adjusted. Then the damper rod adjusting rod "D" shaped needs to be cut off. Please do not confuse the two parts as they have similar names.

After you adjust the damper rod all you have brown do is drip in the valves and continue the install.

I just want to confirm you did receive instructions.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

FJmonkey

Quote from: racerrad8 on January 22, 2013, 07:41:59 PM
No, the damper rod needs to be properly adjusted. Then the damper rod adjusting rod "D" shaped needs to be cut off. Please do not confuse the two parts as they have similar names.

After you adjust the damper rod all you have brown do is drip in the valves and continue the install.

I just want to confirm you did receive instructions.

Randy - RPM

You mean the damper setting? Small, Medium, Large hole setting??? That would be different. Thanks for jumping in Randy. Set the man straight. Set the dampener first then cut the rod. Or do what I did and pull both forks apart and verify proper setting before completion, don't ask. It was a bitch doing it twice.   
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

gripit_N_ripit

Thanks. Yes, Randy I did receive the instructions. Being my first set of forks Ive ever taken apart I guess Im learning the hard way... OK so for clarification the "D" rod is the adjustment rod which is part of the fork cap correct? How is the damper rod (in the bottom of the fork)  adjusted?
Curtis

SlowOldGuy

By the long "D" shaped rod which runs from the top cap down into the adjuster mechanism on the damper rod..

Try looking at an exploded view to familiarize yourself

DavidR.

baldy3853

Just so that I get this right its the long shaft that needs to be trimmed 2"?? If not can U post a picture of the piece that needs to be trimmed??

fj11.5

I'm yet to buy the valves, but my understanding is the d rod needs to be cut down to 2" from the underside of the fork cap/ bottom of the preload adjuster
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

FJmonkey

The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

1tinindian

The later model Fj1200 don't have the D-shaped rod that needs to be cut.
My 1991 didn't require this mod.

Leon
"I want to be free to ride my machine without being hassled by the "man"!
91 FJ1200

andyb

So, if you had a pre-91 and installed the valves, could you then swap to the 91+ fork caps, so that you no longer had a not-attached adjuster atop the forks?


gripit_N_ripit

Quote from: 1tinindian on January 23, 2013, 07:07:28 AM
The later model Fj1200 don't have the D-shaped rod that needs to be cut.
My 1991 didn't require this mod.

Leon

Whew... I thought I was loosing my marbles. So, I don't need to need to cut anything... Hey Leon I read in your post about this mod and decided to make the damper rod holding tool by filing out the inside if a nut that measured 27mm OD exactly, but the tool is slightly too small to grab ahold of the top of the damper rod. Ill try a different size nut and do it again but my assumption is that the PO or dealership may have wallowed out the teeth on the damper rod. Last question; so, if 91+ fj1200's dont have a "D" rod then the damper rod cannot be adjusted and does not need to be removed at all for this mod?? Thanks guys for chiming in. Youve been very helpful.
Curtis

SlowOldGuy

This is why it's important to state the year of your FJ whenever you ask a question.  Otherwise you can (will) get bombarded by a bunch of conflicting information that may not apply to your model.

The '91+ models did not have adjustable damping.  Therefore, they don't have the damping adjuster "D" rod or the mechanism on the top of the damper rod to make the adjustment.

If you're not replacing the fork seals then you do not need to remove the damper rod for installation of RPM valves.  They simply sit on the top of the damper rod where the spring holds them in place. Use a grabber tool to place them on the damper rod.

DavidR.

gripit_N_ripit

My apologies David.I know better than that! :dash1: THank you for the help! Onward with the project!! :yes:
Curtis

fj11.5

if you have a spare rear axle nut,  that will fit your fork caps, , i had used a 27mm nut from a bolt store with a 1/2" drive socket welded on,  but my little man( 4.5 yr old)  borrowed it    :cray: so i used a spare rear wheel nut,  with an old 12mm / 12" drive socked welded to the castilated side, 
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne