head teardown and new valve seals

[racerrad8]

What he did say is that it's just the #4 sleeve that is obviously out of spec. He measured that it's 10 mil below the surface. He recommended replacing or refitting it instead of resurfacing, and that maybe a better equipped shop could fit a spacer under the lip.

No, surface the top surface the .010 and the add additional .010 base gasket under the cylinder when you re-install it.

A new sleeve is going to have to be surfaced to the top of the block as well.

Also, clean the rust from the studs, paint with high temp BBQ paint. The then put black shrink tubing on the as well, but if they are painted they do not need the shrink tubing.

Randy - RPM

[silas]

No, surface the top surface the .010 and the add additional .010 base gasket under the cylinder when you re-install it.

A new sleeve is going to have to be surfaced to the top of the block as well.

Also, clean the rust from the studs, paint with high temp BBQ paint. The then put black shrink tubing on the as well, but if they are painted they do not need the shrink tubing.

Thanks Randy. Sounds good. Same advice I just got from the folks at LA Sleeve. They said they wouldn't even bother refitting it and just re-sleeve anyway. Are you able to source a base gasket with an extra .010? I'll be ordering your Viton seals and some other stuff today anyway.

Will do that work on the bolts as well. They seem sturdy enough to keep in place.

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Hope this is fun to follow.

[silas]

Another question...

Should I remove the pistons for cleaning?

[silas]

Got the cylinder block resurfaced. They took .014 off...





Worked on the rusty bolts yesterday. Let them sit overnight with some Bondo rust remover...

Before...



with Bondo...

[silas]

Been a while, but I've had the block and head sandblasted while I cleaned the valves, the piston crowns, and finished de-rusting and painting the block bolts. Just reinstalled the cleaned up valves with new seals. Forgot to get before and afters of the valves. They were pretty cruddy, but seat just fine now.

Waiting on delivery of two coated steel base gaskets to make up for the .014 lost to the resurfacing. Maybe have everything back together by the weekend.

[racerrad8]

Bolt in one cam at a time and take the readings. From there use the manual to get them adjusted properly.

The gaskets went out today, you will have them no later than Wednesday.

Randy - RPM

[silas]

Thanks Randy. I'm gonna take the bike to the shop once everything is back together to dial in the valves and carbs. I think I can ballpark everything enough to ride a few blocks. I don't have the tools/gauges, and I'd rather put the money toward a professional tune-up. Would be nice to have an experienced eye check over my work too.

[racerrad8]

If you adjust the valves your self on the bench before you put it together, you will save your self a bunch of money.

Once it is assembled and in the bike that is a much more labor intensive job.

Put the head on two blocks, put 8 of the smallest shims you have in the buckets. Bolt in one cam, point the lobes away, use a feeler gauge and take the readings.

Then you will not only be in the ball park, but maybe standing on second waiting for the base hit (carb sync).

Randy - RPM

[SlowOldGuy]

If you follow Randy's advice, the only tools you'll need are a 10mm socket, a feeler guage and the valve tool (which you should have anyway.

Very easy to check/adjust valves on the bench.  You really don't need the valve tool if you make all the proper measurements and calculations.  Just remove the cam and swap/replace the affected shims.

There is a 19mm hex cast into the cams that you can use to turn them with.

DavidR.

[silas]

Ok, ok... you guys talked me into it.

I guess I'll order single shims from Randy as needed, along with the advance rotor that just came back in stock!

[silas]

Well that was easy. Everything was reasonably within spec. Just need three replacements after a game of Musical Shims.

btw: I've been following the Clymer manual the PO handed down with the bike. Going by their ranges of .11-.15mm for the intake and .16-.20 for the exhaust.



Gonna start stacking everything back on the bike tonight. I feel a heavy weight is being lifted from my workbench.

[FJmonkey]

Well that was easy. Everything was reasonably within spec. Just need three replacements after a game of Musical Shims.

btw: I've been following the Clymer manual the PO handed down with the bike. Going by their ranges of .11-.15mm for the intake and .16-.20 for the exhaust.
Gonna start stacking everything back on the bike tonight. I feel a heavy weight is being lifted from my workbench.

Try this if you have access to Excel. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5830.0

[Dan Filetti]

Try this if you have access to Excel. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5830.0

No need for the $$ associated with Excel.  Open Office will do it for free!

http://www.openoffice.org/download/

Works pretty well in comparison MS Office, and Open Office will open MS Office files without any major drama.

Just sayin'

Dan

[FJmonkey]

Try this if you have access to Excel. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5830.0

No need for the $$ associated with Excel.  Open Office will do it for free!

http://www.openoffice.org/download/

Works pretty well in comparison MS Office, and Open Office will open MS Office files without any major drama.

Just sayin'

Dan

Good call, Open Office rocks and is free...

[JMR]

Did you measure how far the pistons were at TDC vs the top of the block?  That'll help to tell you how much can be taken off.

Thicker base gaskets are available, so if you cut the top off 0.010, you'd just add that back into the thickness at the bottom to get back to where you started.  Stock base gasket is 0.020".

.040 squish would be nice but that's just me.