Drive Chain Opions Wanted

[cyclenutk75]

What chain did you get Gold or Chrome.

I bought the gold.  I believe they charge extra for the "chrome", which isn't really chrome - it's just polished.

[Scooterbob]

Rivet tool has been bought along with a 18T front sprocket and a 38T rear sprocket.Bought some new fork seals too.

Where did you end up buying the rear sprocket? Details?

[cyclenutk75]

Hey Gary, you can't go wrong with steel oem sprockets, unless you want to change your ratio. For durability stay
I would recommend changing your countershaft (c/s) sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 18 tooth sprocket.
Here is a neat chart showing the difference in rpms with a larger c/s sprocket:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0

Pat - I checked out the gearing tables.  That's some good info to have.  I'll print it and put in my shop manual.  I zeroed in on the 4000 rpm lines, as that's where my bike just starts to smooth out.  I believe the Ohio Highway Patrol would bring in significantly more revenue if I went with an 18 tooth cs sprocket.  But may give it a try in the future.  Thanks again for all that  info.

[craigo]

Ohh, Travis,

I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt.  I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft.

Needless to say, she leaked oil. Had to buy all new parts and JB Weld up the case.  And that took a couple of times. Not to mention buying a new chain.

Just my experience,

CraigO
90FJ1200

[Flying Scotsman]

Seals and 18T sprocket came from jawzys on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330451325375&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

[Pat Conlon]

Pat - I checked out the gearing tables.  That's some good info to have.  I'll print it and put in my shop manual.  I zeroed in on the 4000 rpm lines, as that's where my bike just starts to smooth out.  I believe the Ohio Highway Patrol would bring in significantly more revenue if I went with an 18 tooth cs sprocket.  But may give it a try in the future.  Thanks again for all that  info.

No problem Gary. Thanks go out to Andy York for putting the original tables together and Chris Vollmer for adding the tables on the 180/55-17 tires.

They sure make it easy for us....

[Klavdy]

Ohh, Travis,

I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt.  I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft.

Needless to say, she leaked oil. Had to buy all new parts and JB Weld up the case.  And that took a couple of times. Not to mention buying a new chain.

Just my experience,

CraigO
90FJ1200

Safety tie the master link on with a length of dental floss.
Seriously.
Also known as the "Norwegian Racing Twine" method.
It will last thousands of miles, just keep an eye on it and replace as needed...

[Travis398]

Ohh, Travis,

I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt. 

CraigO
90FJ1200

Perhaps you mistakenly put the clip on backwards, or didn't seat it all the way in the groove. When I bought the bike it came with a clip on the master link that was so worn you could push it off with your finger. I put a few thousand miles on it that way with no problems, and I drove the hell out of it.

I have a witness, maybe he will chime in and tell how worn it actually was.

As I said I replaced the chain and link last year, a couple thousand miles later still working fine. I'm not telling others to do what I do, some people just have bad luck. Or should I say some people create their own luck.

[craigo]

Or maybe it was just a cheap chain I had.  Been a long time and don't remember what I spent on it.  I know the master link was assembled correctly.  I don't just slap stuff together, especially on the bike because so much is riding on it working correctly.

Since I have stopped using the clip, I have never had a problem with a chain.  Your call.

CraigO
90FJ1200

[andyb]

Never have had a problem with a clip link.  Broken a chain or six, never at a connecting link, never lost a clip.  

Cheap chains and poor installs are hugely bigger problems than a clip link.


There's almost no side load on a clip link, so if the sideplate is pressed on correctly the clip is really under no load at all, just barely enough to keep the sideplate from moving.

[Mark Olson]

when in doubt put it back to stock. stock was endless chain.  nuff said.

[Travis398]

when in doubt put it back to stock.   nuff said.

sounds like you're going to put the stock wheels back on along with those anti-dives and stock seat.

nuff said

[Mark Olson]

when in doubt put it back to stock.   nuff said.

sounds like you're going to put the stock wheels back on along with those anti-dives and stock seat.

nuff said

touche'

yeah i'll get right on that.

In regards to the chain I will always run stock or better.  I have wadded a chain on the freeway before and ain't gonna do it again.

[Kopfjaeger]

"     I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt.  I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft...."

I once lost the clip off my master link.To add force behind observation of side load, as i had lost the clip, replaced said clip with two circlips of right id. no dramas. im not endorsing it tho, i was very dubious as to its longevity, but it held out for about 10 thou k's or so, thats when i replaced the front and rear sprockets and new chain ( didnt lose the master clip this time!!!).... worth noting tho that they were both still on there although a little " thinner" then when i put them on. one was from memory about half its thickness.... apart from that i have never had an issue with a chain and your experience is something i'd never want to have happen. ouch.

[JCainFJ]

O-ring chains are only sealed at the pin link, leaving the outside of the roller link bushing, the inside of the roller and the outside of the roller open and unlubed, so proper lubrication is very important. Yes the pins are the highest ware point in a chain, but these other points in a chain and the sprockets need lube too. A WD-40 "lubed" chain will have a very short life on an FJ, with uneven ware and stiff links starting in as few as 10,000 miles. A spray lubed chain ( like mine ) can go for 25,000 miles. And a automatic chain oiler ( Scott Oiler, Hawk Oiler, and others ) can make a chain go over 50,000 miles.
I use Alisyn Synthetic Chain Lubricant, its made in Columbus OH. Its the best I've found. I commute on my bikes and the best plan I've found is to have a can of lube at home and one at work. Any time I can hear a dry chain rattle, I lube my chain.

Ride Well,
Jon

As for lube, you'll get tons of different takes on it.  My opinion is that it's a sealed chain, and thus internally lubricated.  Therefore it needs cleaned, not lubricated, and WD-40 works brilliantly.