Drive Chain Opions Wanted

Flying Scotsman · April 22, 2011, 04:30:08 PM

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 20, 2011, 12:45:50 PM
I have not put my chain on yet.I did shorten it as it was 120 links long.EK ZZZ chain has tons of grease on it.I plan on cleaning it off the outer plates when I install the chain.I got my rivet tool and am waiting on sprockets.Going 18-38 for now.

18 tooth sprocket came from CHRIS PRODUCTS pbi sprockets.It came quite fast but the finish in themachined/ toothed area was poor.I have a short section of chain that I tried on the sprocket to see how it fit and it didnt sound to good.Front side of the sprocket had a small burr on the teeth where it wasn't finished properly thats what was grinding a little.I will send it back.You could still see the finish from the roughing end mill so the finished surface was poor.Still waiting onthe 38 tooth sprocket and dust sealls from Jawzys.Hope it is better quallity.This chain has been siting here to long I want to get it on the FJ.

Scooterbob · April 23, 2011, 10:05:06 AM

My new 18 tooth sprocket from PBI will be here Monday. Hopefully it will look better than what you're describing. I'll let ya know.

chapindad · April 24, 2011, 08:40:18 AM

I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.

Scooterbob · April 24, 2011, 09:07:40 AM

Quote from: chapindad on April 24, 2011, 08:40:18 AM
I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.

In very general terms: other than the initial chain adjustments after install, I changed mine when I started to have to adjust it two or three times within two weeks. This indicated to me that it was on it's final stretch before breaking. Otherwise you would (in my opinion) change it out when you can visually see damage or when replacing the gear sets. Others may have different reasons, but that is my "very general" opinion.

mz_rider · April 24, 2011, 09:16:52 AM

Quote from: chapindad on April 24, 2011, 08:40:18 AM
I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.

Chains becomes unserviceable for one of two reasons.

1) They wear so that pitch increases. Sometimes called "stretch" though this is not true. Opinions vary but I'd say that about 1% wear is the limit. Also if you can pull the chain a significant distance off the rear sprocket - it's worn. You won't feel much wrong but the chain will start to destroy the sprockets.

2) A link or links seize due to moisture getting past the O rings causing loss of lubricant and corrosion. The chain will feel rough and it will be difficult to adjust. (ie tight spots)

My experience is that FJ's chains fail by the second mode whereas smaller bikes fail by the first - I've no idea why.

Stuart

chapindad · April 24, 2011, 10:13:58 AM

So that leads me to the next question, how tight do I make the chain? As noted in another thread I replaced my rear wheel bearings. I have the rear tire tighten to about the 4 1/2 mark on the swing arm. Will the chain loosen over time to the point where I am at the second mark?

One side question, on the swing arm there is a seal guard. Parts of it became brittle and fell off. Is this important to replace?

Scooterbob · April 25, 2011, 09:54:03 PM

Quote from: Scooterbob on April 23, 2011, 10:05:06 AM
My new 18 tooth sprocket from PBI will be here Monday. Hopefully it will look better than what you're describing. I'll let ya know.

Mine came today. Inspected and found no flaws or other problems. Install happening this weekend.

Flying Scotsman · April 25, 2011, 09:59:33 PM

Good

I think they made mine in a hurry.I wish i had one my rear sprocket should be hear some day soon.
They told me they didnt have any more or I would have them send me a new one.

Scooterbob · April 26, 2011, 06:59:01 AM

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 25, 2011, 09:59:33 PM

I think they made mine in a hurry.

Must have been late on a Friday or something. Did they offer any type of a refund or adjustment?

Flying Scotsman · April 26, 2011, 09:33:48 AM

Offered a refund.When they get it I am going to see if I can get them to make me a new one.

Scooterbob · April 26, 2011, 03:00:34 PM

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 26, 2011, 09:33:48 AM
Offered a refund.When they get it I am going to see if I can get them to make me a new one.

Sounds like a decent group to continue purchasing from then. An occasional mistake is tolerated, but it still sucks when you are the one affected. Hopefully they can give you a credit and let you get a good one on the next production run.

Flying Scotsman · April 26, 2011, 03:30:22 PM

Verry easy to comunicate with told me to send it back.18T front sprockets are hard to find.

axiom-r · April 27, 2011, 11:25:38 AM

Sorry for splintering this thread by another degree but since we seem to be hitting all things "chain and sprockets related" I have a question regarding chain gauge. I have been looking at using a 520 chain for my 92 FJ because of the suspension/wheel conversion I am doing. I am putting 2007 R1 front and rear ends on the bike and this means a 6" wide rear wheel. The easiest path for me appears to be using a 520 chain and getting a 5mm offset counter shaft sprocket. The offset may be a little less or if it is greater I will have the sprocket carrier milled down to reduce the overall offset required at the counter shaft. I am trying to avoid moving the chain closer to the tire so I do not want to mill the carrier except as a last resort.

I have read through a few threads discussing 520 vs 530 etc but there was no clear consensus other than bigger is better etc...

So.....

1. Opinions on the 520 vs 525 vs 530? Tensile strength is there at 9500-10000 lbs. I want to use the 520 because its skinny and will assist me in fitting the fat 6" R1 rear wheel.

2. What about the 5mm offset sprocket upfront? Anybody fitted one on any FJ model? I know I might have to mod the sprocket cover to allow this.

As always, all advice is much appreciated!

Cheers- tim

andyb · April 27, 2011, 11:35:38 AM

Bigger is better for longevity (that's what she said!).

In theory you gain some quickness, as it's less mass to spool up, the narrower chain being lighter. If you're running a very high quality 520 chain, I would have no issue with running a 520 myself in a normal street application. Some of the current literbikes are running a 520, and they produce vastly more power than an FJ. Like any chain, if you neglect it, ignore the tensioning, and leave it filthy, it'll break. Take care of it and I don't foresee any problems.

One thing to know about offsetting the countershaft outward is that you are going to put a significantly greater load on the output shaft itself, the bearing, and the seal (if things flex at all). I think getting what you pay for is the key here. Do it right with good parts and I think you'll do fine, no problem.

weymouth399 · April 27, 2011, 12:31:48 PM

They may have more power than the FJ, but they weigh at least 200 plus LBS less than the FJ too.
That being said I think you could get away with quaility 520 chain, if you don't ask alot from her.
Hole shots, riding double, having luggage, may change results.
It's ugly when a chain breaks and normaly very expensive.

Bob W

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Drive Chain Opions Wanted