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neutral safety switch

Started by karl61, February 17, 2011, 04:03:29 PM

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karl61

February 17, 2011, 04:03:29 PM
My next issue - I bought another switch from ebay -lets trouble shoot another issue:

FJ1100 neutral switch

karl61

#1
February 17, 2011, 04:19:45 PM













nothing really from the manual except a drawing and that's it's suppose to go on the left side.

Travis398

#2
February 17, 2011, 05:58:24 PM
yes it is on the side of the engine.

you need to remove your front sprocket cover to see it.

this will require removing your shifter linkage, clutch slave cylinder and a few bolts.

once you uncover it check the wire and connection


When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

andyb

#3
February 17, 2011, 06:32:23 PM
On my 90, when I hit the starter button, the fuel and oil lights come on.  Looks like your fuel light is not coming on, but the green does when you hit the button.  Maybe someone with an 1100 can say if they're also like that or not.

Something's crossed up someplace, I wonder?  If you pull the sprocket cover, you should be able to find the end of the wire that goes into the sensor.  Ground it and the light should come on (just short it to the shifter shaft or countershaft or whatever's handy).  Does the fuel light work at all for you?

karl61

#4
February 17, 2011, 06:50:59 PM
Quote from: andyb on February 17, 2011, 06:32:23 PM
On my 90, when I hit the starter button, the fuel and oil lights come on.  Looks like your fuel light is not coming on, but the green does when you hit the button.  Maybe someone with an 1100 can say if they're also like that or not.

Something's crossed up someplace, I wonder?  If you pull the sprocket cover, you should be able to find the end of the wire that goes into the sensor.  Ground it and the light should come on (just short it to the shifter shaft or countershaft or whatever's handy).  Does the fuel light work at all for you?


thanks of the reply and direction to the sprocket cover. my fuel light is red and does come on when the fuel gets low. Even when the level indicator was bouncing on the other side the fuel light did come on when I was running low on fuel.

racerman_27410

#5
February 17, 2011, 06:56:54 PM
You have several dash lights out.... first thing is to check that every socket behind the dash has a good bulb in it.

i bet the wire to the neutral switch is shorting behind the clutch cover/oil filter cover


FYI these bikes need some warm up time... you cant cold start an engine and expect to get perfect throttle response right away.

take your time and dont forget to breathe..... its easier to concentrate and figure things out when your brain has plenty of oxygen!


Kookaloo!  :good2:


karl61

#6
February 17, 2011, 06:58:53 PM
I'll start reading about the sprocket cover tonight.  This a little more than a main fuse  :smile: I think I'm also going to learn about the fairing and dash on this issue.

karl61

#7
February 17, 2011, 07:05:47 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 17, 2011, 06:56:54 PM
You have several dash lights out.... first thing is to check that every socket behind the dash has a good bulb in it.

i bet the wire to the neutral switch is shorting behind the clutch cover/oil filter cover


FYI these bikes need some warm up time... you cant cold start an engine and expect to get perfect throttle response right away.

take your time and dont forget to breathe..... its easier to concentrate and figure things out when your brain has plenty of oxygen!


Kookaloo!  :good2:






I have a choke issue too. If I push the choke on you wouldn't really be able to tell that it is on. It doesn't go into the three or four thousand rev area.  The only reason I know is because it doesn't die but still has low revs. If I don't have it activated then it will dies and not idle at the beginning.  That will be another issue.

karl61

#8
February 18, 2011, 06:43:26 PM
I ran into some problems: I did take off the little clutch slave cylinder I did notice that there was a steel nipple type thing that spurt oil when I unscrewed it. Then I went after the chain cover and decided I would probably need a little supervision and it was getting complicated for my skill level especially with the shifter thing. Three was a little bit too much for me. As I  was tightening up the bolts on the chain cover I think I snapped one because it won't tighten and it's shorter than another one of them. I'm trying to find on a parts thing what size bolts they are because they are old and I would like to replace all the bolts with new ones when I work on the area. Does anyone know what size bolts are suppose screw into the chain cover.  I was using an 8mm ratchet and they were pretty long 8x30  must be something like that.

The last thing was I noticed that the clutch had almost no pressure. Was that nipple thing with the rubber cover (by clutch slave cylinder) pressurized and am I suppose to put air or something back into it. I will post pictures soon.

RichBaker

#9
February 18, 2011, 07:09:02 PM
Karl,

The nipple thingy is the clutch bleed screw, it is used to get air out of the system. By opening it, you probably got some air into the system.... which will produce the lack of pressure in the clutch lever, because air compresses.  Fluid does NOT....

The bolts are different sizes, you may have just put one that's too short in the hole. Why do you feel a need to replace perfectly good bolts?

Where are you? It may be better if someone local stops by to help you out....
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

karl61

#10
February 18, 2011, 08:11:48 PM
thanks for the response. The bolt actually looks a little smaller width wise for the hole. I can almost push it in and pull it out.  I was wondering if someone who worked on it just put some type of sealer with the bolt to lock it in and then I remove and then try to tighten it.

I live in Long Beach Calif.

karl61

#11
February 18, 2011, 09:56:32 PM
can anyone actually find the clutch slave cylinder and chain cover on this parts site:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1984-yamaha-fj1100l-california-model/o/m7134#sch218001

craigo

#12
February 18, 2011, 10:06:13 PM
CraigO
90FJ1200

karl61

#13
February 19, 2011, 02:18:21 PM
I got the bolt issues solved  :good:  Now I need to get pressure back into the clutch.

Dan Filetti

#14
February 19, 2011, 03:58:12 PM
You'll need to bleed the clutch, to remove any air you let in.  Easiest way to do this, and a lot of other jobs, is to use a Mighty Vac:

http://www.compacc.com/p/Mighty-Vac-Brake-Bleeder

But it usually can be done with a wrench, some extra brake fluid, a small piece of tubing and the proper technique:

Prep:

Attach the small hose to the end of the nipple, but not too far, as you'll not be able to get the wrench over the nut surfaces on the nipple.  Run that hose into a jar to catch the excess brake fluid you'll have from bleeding. (You don't need to do this if you're using the Mighty Vac -it's got it's own container.) 

**Note: Be REALLY CAREFUL with brake fluid as even a small amount of it on your paint will destroy the paint.**

1) Turn the bars so that the master cylinder is level and at the highest point.  **Take the top off the master.

2) **Top off the Master with brake fluid, you may already be low depending on how much was lost before.

3) Bleed the clutch:

While applying the clutch slowly and progressively, use the wrench to open the nipple, fluid (and air bubbles!) will flow out.  Before the lever gets back to the stop, close the nipple.  The bleeder nipple should only ever be open as the the lever is being slowly pulled back to the stop.  If you don't close the nipple before the lever gets to the stop, or even worse, start to let the lever back out with the nipple open, you suck air back into the system, and you'll need to start over.  The proper technique takes a bit of coordination, but it's fairly easy. 

As you bleed, brake fluid will be coming out, but the key is to get the air out.  Generally, the fluid flowing out will push the air bubbles out along with it.  Note, if you bought the Mighty Vac, you can use it to apply a consistent vacuum, eliminating the need to pump the lever. 

Do ensure, periodically between bleedings, that the master cylinder does not get too low, if it gets low enough to let air in, you'll need to start over from scratch.   

4) Eventually the lever will get nice and firm, and assuming you do not have a leak at the slave, you should be good to go.

5) You may want to take this opportunity to replace the fluid in the system entirely, which is fairly easy as all you need to do is keep bleeding the system as you fill the master a couple of times (never letting it run dry).  This is where the Mighty Vac really helps.

If conventional bleeding does not help, some folks have had good luck opening the master, and zip-tying the lever back to the bar.  Leave it this way overnight, tapping on the brake lines occasionally to let the air bubbles, bubble up and out. 

It's an easy, do it yourself project.

Good luck!

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 
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