Drop in jet kit to use with V&H exhaust?

[TheRadBaron]

Simple; contact Randy @ RPM and have him send you (4) #40 pilot jets and (4) adjustable Mikuni needles. No need for main jets.
Install the pilot jets and set the  new needles at the #2 clip, set your idle mixture screws 2.5 turns out, sync your carbs and call it a day.
The pilots and needles are much less $$$ from Randy than the Fact.Pro stage 1 kit.

[edit] Additionally, I suggest that you also replace your (4) emulsion tubes (also called needle jets or main nozzles part# 50H-14941-92-00) while you're in there.

HTH   Pat

Hey Pat, one more question while I'm thinking about it.  Are the jetting/adjustments you gave above for the 1100 or 1200?  Or does it work for both?

[Pat Conlon]

Works for both. 1100's and 1200's
I reviewed your past posts (looking for your name) and I see you have a '84 (good choice) with a Vance & Hiney 4-1 header, so this jetting will be fine. If you go to the Uni-pod foam air filters (makes future r/r carbs easier) you *may* need to raise the needles to the #3 clip or, many folks have split the difference between the #2 and #3 clip by placing a washer under the clip (while the clip's at the #2 position) making it effectively a 2.5 needle height.
While your needles are out. Look at the distance between the clips. Find a washer whose thickness will be 1/2 of this distance.
Also ....With the added air flow from the foam uni's you will need bigger main jets. With Mikuni needles you will need #125-130 mains
Your #40 pilots will continue to be fine.

[edit] FYI, using the fat Mikuni needles (not the slim tapered DynoJet needles) and using foam UniPod filters, Factory Pro recommends a #132.5 main jet which they supply in their Stage 3 jet kit. I'm running #130 mains and they are fine, #127.5 mains would be good too.
Then again, Factory Pro recommendations have always been on the rich side.

HTH

[86fj12]

Hello,
I am wanting to replace the airbox and need some guidence about the breather tube that is connected. What is a good way to address this?
I dont believe that a drain tube down the case is the best method..
Thoughts and thanks in advance

[andyb]

the crankcase breather?

Stick a filter on the end of it and it lays there, noproblem.

[86fj12]

Cool,
The metal tube that seems to be pressed into the top of the case is loose, what would be the best method of securing the tube. It seems that there has been leakage from around the base down the back of the case and of course on the muffler.. just call me smokey... LOL
Thank you for your advise thus far.

[racerrad8]

The metal tube that seems to be pressed into the top of the case is loose, what would be the best method of securing the tube.

Put a dowel or similar inside the aluminum tube to prevent crushing and use a pair of pliers to remove it. Clean the case & tube and reinstall with some red loc-tite and it will be tight & sealed after that.

Randy - RPM

[wakdady]

Simple; contact Randy @ RPM and have him send you (4) #40 pilot jets and (4) adjustable Mikuni needles. No need for main jets.
Install the pilot jets and set the  new needles at the #2 clip, set your idle mixture screws 2.5 turns out, sync your carbs and call it a day.
The pilots and needles are much less $$$ from Randy than the Fact.Pro stage 1 kit.

[edit] Additionally, I suggest that you also replace your (4) emulsion tubes (also called needle jets or main nozzles part# 50H-14941-92-00) while you're in there.

HTH   Pat

You said #2 clip on the needle. Is that #2 from the bottom or the top?

[Pat Conlon]

#2 from the top. The top clip is the leanest (closest to oem setting) and the lowest clip is the richest. Some folks run on the #3 clip and some folks put a thin washer under the #2 clip so they split the difference between #2 and #3 settings (i.e. a #2.5 setting)

[racerrad8]

If you buy the adjustable Yamaha needles from me, the stock position is the #3 or middle position. Moving the clip up is lean and down is rich.



Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Randy, good to know.

[wakdady]

my stock needles have two little washers under the clip in the needles.
For my adjustable ones, do i need to use these washers? or circlip straight to the little plastic thingy? i am in the process of putting it all back together this afternoon

[Arnie]

my stock needles have two little washers under the clip in the needles.
For my adjustable ones, do i need to use these washers? or circlip straight to the little plastic thingy? i am in the process of putting it all back together this afternoon

Stock, there is a single washer ABOVE the clip on the needle.
The grooves on the needle are 1.00 mm apart.  The washer is 0.50mm thick.
So, the washer allows you to move the needle in 0.5mm increments (half a groove) for fine tuning.

For those who are "metrically challenged", 1mm = 0.040" and 0.5mm = 0.020"

Cheers,
Arnie

[wakdady]

my stock needles have two little washers under the clip in the needles.
For my adjustable ones, do i need to use these washers? or circlip straight to the little plastic thingy? i am in the process of putting it all back together this afternoon

Stock, there is a single washer ABOVE the clip on the needle.
The grooves on the needle are 1.00 mm apart.  The washer is 0.50mm thick.
So, the washer allows you to move the needle in 0.5mm increments (half a groove) for fine tuning.

For those who are "metrically challenged", 1mm = 0.040" and 0.5mm = 0.020"

Cheers,
Arnie

thanks Arnie, but my question is whether or not i copy over those washers to the new adjustable needle.

This is what my stock needle looked like when i took it out


Here it is with everything spread apart.


question is, what should i be putting on the new needle?

[Arnie]

Wakdady,

The washers on your OEM needles raised them (made richer) the equivelent of 1 groove.
On your new needles, you can put the clip 1 groove lower (2nd from bottom) to get the same mix strength.

Save those washers as they are difficult to find in case you need to make a slight adjustment in the future.

Cheers,
Arnie