Starting 2026 by restoring my '85 FJ1100

[STLanduyt]

Hello from San Diego!
By way of introduction, my name is Steve and I have owned my FJ1100 since 1985 when I bought it new at the local Yamaha dealership.  I have ridden motorcycles on the roads in California since the state issued me a learners permit at 15 1/2, and the FJ1100 came out at the perfect time for me.
You may be familiar with the many rural roads in San Diego County and I did my best to ride on as many of them as I could, including those in the adjacent counties.  In the late 1990's my riding opportunities dwindled as the demands of life/work increased.  A common circumstance, I'm sure.  The FJ was garaged and not ridden for about 28 years.
My goal is to restore the FJ and tour the western states.
To that end, I have been scouring the FJowners posts and compiling a todo list of FJ projects for this Winter so that it will be ready to get back on the road come Spring.
The FJ's tank is clean and has no rust.
The carbs need cleaning and rebuilding.
Need new tires.
Need to restore/replace brakes, brake and clutch lines, clutch slave.
Change oil, regrease wheel bearings.
What am I overlooking?
Also, what is your advice about restarting the engine after such a long period of non-use?

Thank you, and I look forward to seeing FJ's on the road in 2026!

Steve
   

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

I would recommend pouring a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder and turning the engine over by hand to help lubricate things. Stuck rings in my experience on these bikes that sit for awhile will do more damage if not addressed properly. Compression check and bleed down test is always good. Valve stem seals might be a good thing depending on how far you're willing to go.

Clutch discs would be nice too. If you still have the stock airbox, maybe consider moving over to air pod filters, along with a re jet and exhaust.

If you haven't already, safety wire the petcock fuel elbow that goes into the fuel line. Its press fit from the factory and has been know to slip out, dump fuel, and catch the bike on fire. Also check your "red plug" coming from the generator/alternator going to the ignitor box, that is known to corrode as well. There's threads and right ups on each issue.

Also lastly I think a fresh chain and sprockets would tie everything together.

[Waiex191]

Welcome Steve!
My story is a little like yours but my FJ was only parked for about 16 years.  I documented the process here:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.0

[STLanduyt]

Thanks for the suggestions, Johnny! 
Your comment,"[v]alve stem seals might be a good thing depending on how far you're willing to go" raises the major question of how far into the engine I should go at this time?  Before I attempt to turn over the engine, would it be better to first open the upper engine to clean/ lubricate/check the valves, pistons and valve springs?

Steve

[STLanduyt]

Bryan,

I just finished reading your restoration thread ... what a saga!

Your great sense of humor was undoubtedly a major contributor to your success.

Steve

[Waiex191]

Bryan,

I just finished reading your restoration thread ... what a saga!

Your great sense of humor was undoubtedly a major contributor to your success.

Steve

Steve,
Glad you enjoyed it and hopefully it is a help.  As you read I got some key help from the guys here.
I elected to crank my engine over to verify it was not seized and once I got the carbs sorted I fired it up. My thought was maybe I didn't need to dive into the engine but if it was a disaster I could always rebuild. Worked out for me.

[red]

Hello from San Diego!
By way of introduction, my name is Steve and I have owned my FJ1100 since 1985 Change oil, regrease wheel bearings, . . . what am I overlooking?
Also, what is your advice about restarting the engine after such a long period of non-use?
Thank you, and I look forward to seeing FJ's on the road in 2026!
Steve

Steve,
Welcome to the evening FJ campfire! Pull up a seat, and be among friends.  I have a 1985 too.
I would get the spin-on oil filter adapter from RPM here, first. The stock oil filter is a PITA.  I like Wix oil filters.
Put the bike on the center stand, in top gear, and keep the ignition OFF. Rotate the rear wheel to turn over the engine (gently) and get the new oil into your new spin-on filter and the oil passages. Takes a while, so take it easy.
I would not tear into the engine until I had a serious reason. ("If it ain't broke, don't fix it.")
You will not be able to re-grease the sealed wheel bearings, but if there is any problem, you can get new bearings easily.
Keep us posted . . .

[Pat Conlon]

Welcome Steve, I too bought my '84 when they first came out. Before retiring and moving to Arizona, I lived in Palm Desert for 45 years so I have also enjoyed those San Diego county highways. I drank many cups of coffee at the Hideaway, the switchbacks on Palomar and the Hwy 74 Julian loop down to Borrego Hot Springs were some of my favorites.

Pull those carbs and send them to Robert at RPM and let him work his magic, it's well worth it. Be gentle turning over that engine. Do it by hand, never with the starter. Pull the plugs, spray in some Marvel Mystery Oil or PB Blaster then on the left side crank bolt, Rock the crank gently back and forth in small increments...easy does it.

Get a fresh vacuum petcock, available at RPM, don't flood your engine with an old petcock that fails to close.

Your valve seals will be hard and dry so don't freak out when your engine smokes, it's expected. Ride the bike, get a couple hundred miles on the seals and see if they get better. Check your valve clearances soon after you get her running.

Of course, new tires, brake lines, flush all the hydraulics, check brake pads, etc, etc.

Cheers lad

Pat

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

Thanks for the suggestions, Johnny! 
Your comment,"[v]alve stem seals might be a good thing depending on how far you're willing to go" raises the major question of how far into the engine I should go at this time?  Before I attempt to turn over the engine, would it be better to first open the upper engine to clean/ lubricate/check the valves, pistons and valve springs?

Steve

If you did want to get ahead of the curve, there's only benefits to doing so. Again like pat was saying checking valve clearances might be a good thing. what's the mileage on the bike? I would start by just pulling the plugs to lube up the cylinders, do a compression, and bleed down check on her and then move on from there.