Clutch not engaging after sitting, not leaking

[coreyoreo]

Long time member, but due to health issues, haven't been able to ride much these days. So glad to see all the new members & the old ones, too!

    Anyway, my '89 has been sitting covered in my garage for the last several years, I start it about once every month or 2, no issues.

   So about a year or 2 ago when I went to move it into a Uhaul,  the clutch would not engage, that is, I put it in gear and it lunged then stalled and I was forced to push it into the trailer. There's no leakage of any kind, the reservoir is (almost) full. just no pressure on the clutch lever at all.

So now I'm finally able to get to it & find out what happened. Any advice on how to begin addressing the problem? Hopefully it's something simple. I thought I saw something someone said about rocking it back & forth to break it free, but I can't find it now & don't wanna mess anything up.

   I'm grateful for any advice offered!!

Corey

[red]

Long time member, but due to health issues, haven't been able to ride much these days. So glad to see all the new members & the old ones, too!
  So about a year or 2 ago when I went to move it into a Uhaul,  the clutch would not engage, that is, I put it in gear and it lunged then stalled and I was forced to push it into the trailer. There's no leakage of any kind, the reservoir is (almost) full. just no pressure on the clutch lever at all.
So now I'm finally able to get to it & find out what happened. Any advice on how to begin addressing the problem? Hopefully it's something simple. I thought I saw something someone said about rocking it back & forth to break it free, but I can't find it now & don't wanna mess anything up.
I'm grateful for any advice offered!!
Corey

Corey,

Sounds like the clutch hydraulics has leaked completely dry.  Refill the system, then bleed the clutch.  Speedbleeders.com can make that an easy, one-guy job, and they should know which bleeder screw you will need.  They also have a nifty fluid-catch bag to help; if you buy one, you will be glad you did.  Once you get the clutch hydraulics back to normal, you should see the clutch working to release, under the clutch cover.

Part Two: after the long idleness, it is normal for the clutch plates to stick together.  The clutch will not release, even with the clutch lever working normally.  At this point, you can either pull the clutch lever, engage a gear (with the key OFF), and roll the bike forward and backward until the clutch plates break free . . . OR . . . you can put the bike on the center stand, and let the engine and heat do the hard work.  If you do that, put the bike on the center stand, with the bike and front tire pointed straight and hard into a solid wall.  Engage first gear, start the bike (with the rear wheel turning as expected), and tie the clutch lever tightly against the handgrip.  Let the bike run itself fully warm, then blip the throttle in short pulses until the clutch releases.  Your clutch should be entirely normal, then.  Turn off the engine.



 

[T Legg]

 There's no leakage of any kind, the reservoir is (almost) full. just no pressure on the clutch lever at all.

Corey
[/quote]
           If there is no pressure at the clutch lever it must be air in the line. I bought an FJ a while back that had been sitting for two years and also had no pressure at the clutch handle. I put the bike in neutral and started it then held the lever in for about five minutes while it ran and let the the engine vibrate the air bubbles up the line. After that the lever was firm enough to operate the clutch and ride it home. I still bled the clutch more once home to clear out the old murky brake fluid.
I've done this many times with success.
 Good luck.

[coreyoreo]

Thanks, guys, I will try all of these scenarios you mentioned until I get success or fail. I'll definitely let you know either way! 

Corey

[red]

Thanks, guys, I will try all of these scenarios you mentioned until I get success or fail. I'll definitely let you know either way!  
Corey

Carey,

If you have some air in the line, that's not really serious.  Getting the air out can be a trick, though, because the hose is vertical and it's not easy to chase out the air, by pushing fluid down.  Fortunately, now you can get banjo bleeder bolts, to replace the stock items.  They are made for this job.  Install a new banjo bleeder bolt where the brake hose attaches to the front brake master cylinder.  Any air will rise to the top of the hose, and go out through the bleeder bolt.  Banjo bleeder bolts should cost in the range of US$ 20.00 each.  RPM has them, click the banner on this page.  Never re-use the old hydraulic washers.  Use two new hydraulic washers, when replacing the banjo bolt.  Make really sure that all mating surfaces are very clean, for the brake line assembly.
It is still likely that your clutch plates will be stuck together, but if so, you know how to deal with that.  

[RPM - Robert]

In stock and ready to go.

Banjo Bleeder Bolt

Copper Banjo Crush Washer Sold individually (Sorry picture shows two.)

[ribbert]

There's no leakage of any kind, the reservoir is (almost) full. just no pressure on the clutch lever at all.

Corey

........I put the bike in neutral and started it then held the lever in for about five minutes while it ran and let the the engine vibrate the air bubbles up the line....... I've done this many times with success.
 
[/quote]








I agree entirely. Too many folks make a meal of this. The line is continuously rising and the air will naturally want to rise anyway. However the angle is such that some bubbles may well cling to the line and the engine vibes shake them loose.

I do a version of what you do Travis, get just enough lever to crunch it into gear, even if it's dragging heavily, and ride it around the block. A 100% of the time it's perfect when I get back.

Next time your looking at a bottle of carbonated drink (soda?) flick the bottle with your finger and watch what happens to all the bubbles clinging to the inside of the bottle, they break free and float to the top.

Noel

As always, never shake a bottle of brake fluid, even if you just drop it on the floor, let it sit for 24 hours or go buy another bottle.

[coreyoreo]

Thanks again, everyone! I'll be trying in the next couple days to see what works. Truly appreciate the help!

[coreyoreo]

In stock and ready to go.

Banjo Bleeder Bolt

Copper Banjo Crush Washer Sold individually (Sorry picture shows two.)

Thanks, Randy!!!

[FJmonkey]

Thanks, Randy!!!

Corey, FYI, that was Robert. He is in the RPM shop full time.

[coreyoreo]

Thanks, Randy!!!

Corey, FYI, that was Robert. He is in the RPM shop full time.

My bad!! Thank you ROBERT! and Monkey

[coreyoreo]

Carey,

If you have some air in the line, that's not really serious.  Getting the air out can be a trick, though, because the hose is vertical and it's not easy to chase out the air, by pushing fluid down.  Fortunately, now you can get banjo bleeder bolts, to replace the stock items.  They are made for this job.  Install a new banjo bleeder bolt where the brake hose attaches to the front brake master cylinder.  Any air will rise to the top of the hose, and go out through the bleeder bolt.  Banjo bleeder bolts should cost in the range of US$ 20.00 each.  RPM has them, click the banner on this page.  Never re-use the old hydraulic washers.  Use two new hydraulic washers, when replacing the banjo bolt.  Make really sure that all mating surfaces are very clean, for the brake line assembly.
It is still likely that your clutch plates will be stuck together, but if so, you know how to deal with that.  
[/quote]

Thanks, Red!

[coreyoreo]

There's no leakage of any kind, the reservoir is (almost) full. just no pressure on the clutch lever at all.

Corey

........I put the bike in neutral and started it then held the lever in for about five minutes while it ran and let the the engine vibrate the air bubbles up the line....... I've done this many times with success.
 

Thanks, Ribbert, I tried this & unfortunately, it did not work. Gonna try second option, bleeding & replacing old fluid...







I agree entirely. Too many folks make a meal of this. The line is continuously rising and the air will naturally want to rise anyway. However the angle is such that some bubbles may well cling to the line and the engine vibes shake them loose.

I do a version of what you do Travis, get just enough lever to crunch it into gear, even if it's dragging heavily, and ride it around the block. A 100% of the time it's perfect when I get back.

Next time your looking at a bottle of carbonated drink (soda?) flick the bottle with your finger and watch what happens to all the bubbles clinging to the inside of the bottle, they break free and float to the top.

Noel

As always, never shake a bottle of brake fluid, even if you just drop it on the floor, let it sit for 24 hours or go buy another bottle.
[/quote]

[coreyoreo]

In stock and ready to go.

Banjo Bleeder Bolt

Copper Banjo Crush Washer Sold individually (Sorry picture shows two.)

Thanks, Randy!!!

I mean... ROBERT!

[RPM - Robert]

  No worries.