Colin's FJ1200

[Pat Conlon]

1) Remove the bleeder port.
2) Fill slave with fluid. Pour fluid into slave.
3) Reinstall bleeder port, leave port open.
4) Put hose on bleeder nipple to catch fluid that squirts out.
5) Reinstall slave on bike. (Port open)
6) Close bleeder port.
7) Finish bleeding and residual air.

[Old Rider]

Fun story remind me of my youth driving with outside of helmet instead of whats inside .
Those kwakas was and are still great.I once was thinking of building a replica of this but it never happened
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2O9kvpQRp4 guess you never seen this clip before 
Condolance for Kim cancer sucks i lost 3 family members from it.
About the ball try using a long magnet stick maybe. Do what Father Pat says and be patient

[T Legg]

If just bleeding is the problem try holding in the clutch lever while the bike is running for about five minutes . It works every time for me.

[FJ1200W]

Made time to wrap up the clutch bleed and take the beast on a 87.1 mile ride.
Glitch free!
The shifting is a little tight - I used some surplus Amsoil 10W-50 and oil makes a difference on these bikes, I've learned.
Tach quit working, I need to figure that out.
We made several stops, it was a great time.
We even ran into my father in the middle of nowhere - what are the odds?
The Harley never had a chance in any performance comparison.
Making it even "funner"

[FJ1200W]

Took the bike apart a bit to check the wiring, and I think the tach itself is bad.
Speedometer cable broke, but a little marine shrink tubing seems to have fixed it.
Fabricated a little panel to cover some damage.
These bikes are fun to work on.

[FJ1200W]

Other than the little nick shown above, the wiring all looks AOK.
Let me know if you see anything otherwise

[FJ1200W]

Put a new power port in, and found the pic of the broken speedometer retaining nut thing ...

[red]

Took the bike apart a bit to check the wiring, and I think the tach itself is bad.
Speedometer cable broke, but a little marine shrink tubing seems to have fixed it.
Fabricated a little panel to cover some damage.

FJ1200W,

Damaged wiring insulation can be repaired with brush-on liquid insulation "cream" AKA Liquid Electrical Tape in a bottle, with a brush in the lid.  Auto parts stores or electrical supply houses will have it.  Let it dry overnight before any further tinkering.  
You can replace damaged or missing electrical cable sheathing with Spiral-Wrap, which comes as a number of materials (very hard or somewhat soft), and in many different sizes.
You can also use Spiral-Wrap to provide new abrasion protection at places where the stock wiring harness is in harm's way.  
Metal-bearing Spiral-Wrap can protect wiring from heat sources, as needed.
You can use Split-Sleeve cable sheathing over harness wiring, and cover it with Spiral-Wrap, for extra protection.
Electronics supply shops and the better computer-hardware suppliers will have varieties of Spiral-Wrap.
Amazon has all of this stuff, if you do not have a local retail source.

New FJ speedometer cables are still available and inexpensive.
Most instrument failures on the FJ are the results of poor electrical connections, not the instrument.  Check all wiring terminal connections to the panel and instruments, and do not hesitate to run a dedicated new ground wire to the tach, right over the old one, connected to a solid grounding point.
.

[FJ1200W]

New FJ speedometer cables are still available and inexpensive.
Most instrument failures on the FJ are the results of poor electrical connections, not the instrument.  Check all wiring terminal connections to the panel and instruments, and do not hesitate to run a dedicated new ground wire to the tach, right over the old one, connected to a solid grounding point.
.

Good food for thought - thank you!

Speedo cable repair worked great -  layers of marine grade shrink tube, better than new.

I used electrical tape on that nick, quick and easy. I have been wanting to buy some of the liquid tape, thanks again for the reminder.

The bike is back together and rode well today. It feels so much quicker than mine, it's a rocketdship.

The tach is needed - I'll try and tear it down this weekend.

Start work to fairing off, what do you think, 15 minutes?

[red]

Start work to fairing off, what do you think, 15 minutes?

FJ1200W,

Sounds about right.  On my 1985, there are four bolts that attach the cowling to the STAY2 (P/N 3SK-28359-00-00 on the 1989), and two small screws near the rear.  Disconnect some electrical connectors as needed, and the cowling can flip off, going forward.  Not sure, on the instrument panel assembly.

[FJ1200W]

Stripped it down again this morning.
Didn't find anything odd, still thinking it's the gauge.
I'll double check pictures for solder failures/cc
racks.
I thought the speedo cable broke, but it was the front wheel off the ground - this one runs strong!
Clutch is still a little wonky. I think the metal plates are warped.
Rest time.....

[T Legg]

The solder joint of the black wire on the back of the PC board looks like a cold solder joint and also looks dull and corroded. The screw connections on the back also have a good amount of rust and should be cleaned up . I have had a bad tach that I replaced three times before I found one that worked . The bad ones would not work at all most of the time but occasionally they would start working for short periods of time but would read inaccurately when they did. I started by cleaning wire connections but only the third tach I tried solved the problem. You should also grease where the speedometer cable attaches while you are in there.

[red]

For anybody not handy with a soldering iron, two tips:

Cut down a common kitchen sponge to fit into a very shallow glass jar.  Cut a small hole in the center of the sponge.  Wet the sponge with water, before soldering starts.  Wipe the hot soldering iron tip to be clean and shiny, inside the hole in the sponge.  Then add fresh solder to the hot tip, and start in on the job.  Any time one minute has passed on the work, clean the tip in the sponge and use fresh solder again.  Close the jar with the lid, when not in use.

Rosin flux is lame.  Acid fluxes will destroy electronic boards.  Use La-Co flux.  It is a (safe, NON-acid) paste, and it washes away with water, not chemicals or solvents.  Do not leave any fluxes on your finished work.  The smallest container (US$5) of this flux will last you for years.  Amazon and many plumbing places will have it.

https://www.amazon.com/22101-Regular-Soldering-Flux-Paste/dp/B005EO2HS0/
.

[Old Rider]

Hello Whats up with the handlebar rubbers  maybe they are too thick  so the lever not get full travel ?  is it the rpm gauge or speedometer gauge that is not working? i have a american
speedometer in miles here i can send you

[FJ1200W]

Hello Whats up with the handlebar rubbers  maybe they are too thick  so the lever not get full travel ?  is it the rpm gauge or speedometer gauge that is not working? i have a american
speedometer in miles here i can send you

Those are some grips, aren't they! I was thinking about replacing them but where would you ever find another set like them! Period correct for the last century!

Tachometer is inoperative.

Colin sent me a picture of a parts bike moments ago -

Thanks for the commentary!