My Initial Tear Down and Surprises lol 1992 Fj1200

[PaulG]

MEK was my thought also.  Do you know what brand of liner was used? If so you can look it up online and try and find it's base ingredients.  Maybe even from an MSDS/SDS. Then you can try and match a solvent or such that matches the main ingredient, which might help dissolve it.  Just using bathtub gin logic here.  If all else fails.

Would applying heat have any effect? Like sticking a heat gun into the top of the tank and seeing if it breaks the bond?

[1200turning]

 I have been reading your story, I have a beautiful 1992 gas tank from my FJ with gas cap key. I bought this non ABS 1992 FJ in 1998. In early 2015 hit by texting driver at 8 MPH in San Diego, CA. pushed over and cracked the engine case, insurance totaled the bike and I bought it back from them. Found a 1992 FJ1200 ABS model in New Hampshire with very low miles on it. Bought it, flew back east and rode it across country on Route 6 back to Los Angeles in October 2015. I changed all nine (?) brake/clutch lines with Galfer, and added blue dot calipers. RPM did the head & valves as I had a light dusting of dirt on my right side pant leg when I got back to LA. Randy surmised that because of the low miles it must have been a commuter bike and heat was the culprit on the green o'ring type seal between head and block. So I have a few spare parts from my old FJ and the gas tank is one of them.
If interested - kevinsocalnorton@gmail.com

[RevDeal]

I have been reading your story, I have a beautiful 1992 gas tank from my FJ with gas cap key. I bought this non ABS 1992 FJ in 1998. In early 2015 hit by texting driver at 8 MPH in San Diego, CA. pushed over and cracked the engine case, insurance totaled the bike and I bought it back from them. Found a 1992 FJ1200 ABS model in New Hampshire with very low miles on it. Bought it, flew back east and rode it across country on Route 6 back to Los Angeles in October 2015. I changed all nine (?) brake/clutch lines with Galfer, and added blue dot calipers. RPM did the head & valves as I had a light dusting of dirt on my right side pant leg when I got back to LA. Randy surmised that because of the low miles it must have been a commuter bike and heat was the culprit on the green o'ring type seal between head and block. So I have a few spare parts from my old FJ and the gas tank is one of them.
If interested - kevinsocalnorton@gmail.com

Kevin! Thanks for reaching out. I sent an email over to you. Let's chat. I have a feeling I will be converting to non abs soon. Have both the wheels to do it, as you have probably read already. So we will hopefully be in touch!
Jacob

[RevDeal]

5 days have gone by with the new solvent trials of MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), not the substitute, but the actual stuff. Based on my two day trial with a piece of the liner in a cup, I found that it doesn't really dissolve it, but softens it up quite a bit. I threw a bit of chain in there to try and rip it from the walls.

I will be moving on to electrolysis in the next day or two. Some of you have done this and I wanted input for what to do when you have completed the process. I've read there is a possibility to have flash rust, which I want to avoid! When I drain the solution from the tank, what is the best next step? I have picked up Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and fresh gas. Can I do an immediate rinse of gas an MMO, then fill the tank? Should I do an acetone rinse to displace the water? Then gas and mmo? Looking for some suggestions. Thanks!

[red]

When I drain the solution from the tank, what is the best next step? I have picked up Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and fresh gas. Can I do an immediate rinse of gas an MMO, then fill the tank? Should I do an acetone rinse to displace the water? Then gas and mmo? Looking for some suggestions. Thanks!

RevDeal,

If I wanted to wash Marvel Mystery Oil off any piece of metal, I would first try gasoline as a cleaner.  Try it.  One test is worth a hundred expert opinions.
.

[FJmonkey]

Red, he is first wanting to rinse out the MEK. The MMO is to coat the inside to prevent flash rust. So no need to rinse the MMO. 

I would test mixing a very small amount of MMO and MEK. Do they react? Do they mix? If they don't react and they mix, then I would use some MMO to dilute the MEK.

[RevDeal]

I should clarify:

I am going to be rinsing the MEK out with water. Next, I will be adding the electrolysis solution (soda ash and water) and doing electrolysis for a bit to remove some of the rust that was underneath the tank liner. After, that process has concluded I will drain the tank of the soda ash and water. I want to prevent the flash rust after emptying that solution out, assuming there will be some.

Sorry for the confusion.

[Pat Conlon]

Don't  worry about flash rust if you are filling your tank wit Sodium Carbonate and moving directly to electrolysis.

The time to worry about flash rust is after electrolysis.
Don't stop electrolysis until you have your tank liner components lined up ready to go.
Clean, etch, and seal. Follow the instructions perfectly. Do not use Kreem

[RevDeal]

Don't worry about flash rust if you are filling your tank wit Sodium Carbonate and moving directly to electrolysis.

The time to worry about flash rust is after electrolysis.
Don't stop electrolysis until you have your tank liner components lined up ready to go.
Clean, etch, and seal. Follow the instructions perfectly. Do not use Kreem

Pat I really dont want to reline the tank with anything. The inside of the tank is in decent condition, doesnt seem to need to be lined.

Jacob

[FJ_Hooligan]

Isn't there a "rust neutralizer" you can apply after electrolysis?

[FJmonkey]

Maybe use this if the tank has to sit clean and empty before you finish it. Rust-Block

[RevDeal]

Well gentlemen,
I have succeeded with finishing the tank. The process after the electrolysis had to be highly thought out and well planned in order to accomplish things before the flash rust came. I did do an acetone rinse after rinsing the rusty water out a couple times. This helped with getting the inside to dry quickly. After that, it was a couple rinses with a mixture of Marvel Mystery oil and gasoline to ensure all water and acetone were out. Then a prompt fill to the top with gas.

I did have one negative surprise, my vent tube in the tank was clogged. So gas had got under my filler cap and ate all the paint away in the evening. So after an hour of using a mental coat hanger and forced air, I managed to unclog it, which greatly helped. Thanks for all your advice.

[RevDeal]

So awhile ago I posted on the FJ facebook page:
So tonight I looked up PA indicator codes and realized the RPM integrated turn signal brake light was not legal in my state. So I had to reinstall my turn signals for my inspection. I disconnected the turn LED turn signals from the integrated kit and just plug back in the old normal ones. All works fine. When I apply my brakes and use the turn signal the rear LED brake light blinks [Dims] slightly. Is this normal? It doesn't blink unless the brakes are applied.


I decided to just try a double bullet connection on the factory wiring and plug both the Givi lights and the integrated RPM rear brake light with turn signals into it. I have not had any issues. Both turn signals from the brake light and the outers work fine now. Just in case anyone was ever in the same pickle.
Jacob

[Millietant]

So awhile ago I posted on the FJ facebook page:
So tonight I looked up PA indicator codes and realized the RPM integrated turn signal brake light was not legal in my state. So I had to reinstall my turn signals for my inspection. I disconnected the turn LED turn signals from the integrated kit and just plug back in the old normal ones. All works fine. When I apply my brakes and use the turn signal the rear LED brake light blinks [Dims] slightly. Is this normal? It doesn't blink unless the brakes are applied.


I decided to just try a double bullet connection on the factory wiring and plug both the Givi lights and the integrated RPM rear brake light with turn signals into it. I have not had any issues. Both turn signals from the brake light and the outers work fine now. Just in case anyone was ever in the same pickle.
Jacob

With the number of left-turning bikes rear ended by cars/trucks I'm really surprised that anyone uses turn signal intergrated into the rear lights. Mind you, I also don't understand why car makers in the USA still use the red brake light as a turn signal. Surely Red means danger/stop and it's better not to confuse things by using it as turn indicator.

Over here all of those integrated turn signals on bikes are illegal - the actual indicator has be over a set minimum distance from the centre line of the bike, and it must be an amber colour, to make sure that intention to turn is clearly signalled to other road users. And if you use one anyway (changing it after the annual safety check/test) you'll likely get prosecuted - we even have police that hang out around bike gatherings and issue fines for having the wrong font, size, letter spacing and plate size on vehicle number plates/registration plates, or for having loud exhausts !

Personally, I really don't understand this fascination of putting turn signal lights on the centre of the bike....but maybe that comes from having a friend put in a wheelchair and his wife killed, when they got rear-ended by a car.

[Millietant]

Saparately though Rev, can do you put a link for the FB FJ page (if that's OK) - I've trawled and can't find anything other than a U.K. FJ group and an Aussie FJ group.