'84 FJ1100 resto mod

[Pat Conlon]

I bought my bike new and I don't recall my anti dives ever working effectively. I tried all the settings and different weight fork oils. The oem fork springs were just flat out too soft for a 550lb bike and a 200lb rider.
Progressive springs were all we had for damper rod fork upgrades in the mid eighties... until Race Tech introduced their Cartridge Emulators used with heavier straight rate springs in the late eighties.

[stou]

Here's some updates.

I received my caliper rebuild kit, so I rebuild all 3 calipers. They was really stucked and it was very difficult to remove the calipers pistons. But I made it!









Next, cleaning and painting the engine!

Then I started to work on the second engine to have an idea of his condition. I putted a few drop of oil in each cylinders to be sure there was a bit of lubricant in the cylinders. I turned the crank many times manualy  and took the compression. I was surprised because I tought this engine was in worst shape than the other one but it look in very good shape. Cold I read around 150psi on all cylinder except one at 135. So I will use this engine. It will need a good clean up and paint but I think it will be fine!



I ckecked the valves and they was all in the specs except one intake on the #4. It was really tight. It had a 280 shim. I looked in the other engine parts and found a 275 shim, exactly what I needed! So I made a small tool to keep the bucket down and replaced the shim. I tought a good piece of 6061 aluminium was strong enough for the tool but when I turned the cam, the tool started to fold and lift on one side. The valve spring are stronger than I tought. So I just put a piece of steel over it and it worked.

[stou]

I forgot to post this one. Since I cutted the subframe, I lost the bracket for the rear oil brake reservoir. So I designed one in Fusion 360 and printed it with my 3D printer.

[T Legg]

Was the cylinder that read 135 psi the same cylinder that had the tight intake valve?

[stou]

Yes it was the same cylinder. Maybe related, the valve didn't open completely. But in the end, the compression must not be affected. It can take longer to get to the max psi since less air enter in the chamber, but if it is lower, the rings must be a little bit more worn... I think, I'm I right?

[T Legg]

I bought one a while back that wasn't running .I checked the compression cold then adjusted the valves with several being tight .Then I rechecked the compression cold and the lowest cylinder came up 13 psi.If the valve is tight it will be open longer and deeper than normal.

[Pat Conlon]

The moral of the story:

Adjust your valves before you do a compression test.

If compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder, if the numbers come up, it's the rings leaking.
If the numbers stay the same it's the valves leaking.

If you do a leak down you can hear which valves leak.....although it really does not matter at that point, the head's got to come off whether it's a leaky intake valve or (more common) a burned exhaust valve.

[stou]

Pat Conlon, I just saw the thread about the fuel petcock on your signature. That's a very good thing to know!

Thanks for the link!

[stou]

Wednesday, I painted the engine and yesterday I installed it in the frame.

[Dieselman7.3]

Coming along nicely 

[stou]

Thanks!

[Millietant]

But you need to polish the head/barrel outer fin edges  , otherwise it'll just look like the engines has a quick "flash over" with paint 

[stou]

Sorry but I prefer the "all black" look   

[Pat Conlon]

Don't the kids call that, the Murdered Out look? Something like that....

[stou]

I never heard that one!