full disengagement

[ribbert]

Its really upsetting me as of now. Im 18 and ive spend so much time and money on this thing... the clutch doesnt work...

Take heart! The clutch is simple and you've got all the good the people on the job, they'll get you there.

Noel

[roortcloud]

I've also experienced this problem with a FJR clutch master.
After repeated attempts to bleed the system, Randy noticed that the clutch basket was moving when disengaging. Turns out that the clutch basket nut had come loose. He tighten it and problem solved.

[ZOA NOM]

I only gave up because I needed the bike for my commute. The problem was bleeding. It can drive you nuts if you don't have patience or time to do it properly and fully.


btw - I shot the ball across the garage too, we all do...

[fj1289]

I know the clutch system is a bit different from the brakes, but may try this technique:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/22-mods-how-tos/283074-brake-bleeding-problems-look-here-fail-proof-bleeding.html

[ZOA NOM]

Sounds like a good method, but the pics would help. If you have a login on that forum, maybe you could link the pics here for those of us who have no interest in another login to a forum we won't likely use. Thanks for the link.

[FJmonkey]

Except for the extra fluid I use this same method (as above, GSXR) with really good results. Good enough that I have not felt the need to use other methods. Not even a speed bleeder. My rear wheel turns with the bike cold and on the center-stand. Once warm the drag is gone.

[FJmonkey]

I know the clutch system is a bit different from the brakes, but may try this technique:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/22-mods-how-tos/283074-brake-bleeding-problems-look-here-fail-proof-bleeding.html

The BALL? Or the Rod (spear the cat)?  I don't think anyone has lost the ball this way yet.

[iridewheelies]

I've also experienced this problem with a FJR clutch master.
After repeated attempts to bleed the system, Randy noticed that the clutch basket was moving when disengaging. Turns out that the clutch basket nut had come loose. He tighten it and problem solved.

only the middle clutch hub moves while disengaged. the nut looked solid with the lock washer in place.

[iridewheelies]

So I tried deleting the hydraulics again it only got worse the bike will not move it all in gear. I dont have the money to take it to the professionals. It runs OK when cold and it runs like shit or not at all when warm. I can get it tuned once the clutch works. I jetted it and it goes through all rpm in 1st. There isnt much i can do to make the damn thing work all it does is make me upset. My dad is ase certified so i may have him help me...

[FJmonkey]

Where in the world are you? Maybe someone is near you and willing to help.

Check here as well. FJzeemap https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=724879#

[FJ_Hooligan]

Did you soak all the plates in oil for 24 hours before installing them?

Has the clutch been a problem since you got it?

[fj1289]

Sounds like a good method, but the pics would help. If you have a login on that forum, maybe you could link the pics here for those of us who have no interest in another login to a forum we won't likely use. Thanks for the link.

I don't have a logon for that site.   I'll be putting this to practice soon — I'll take some pics.  Biggest thing is to have the bottle well above the bleeder screw.  This will keep a column of fluid standing on the bleeder and the air bubbles will rise to the top, so when you release the lever - so it only draws in fluid - no air. 

[iridewheelies]

Where in the world are you? Maybe someone is near you and willing to help.

Check here as well. FJzeemap https://www.zeemaps.com/map?group=724879#

I am located in omaha nebraska and i also do powder coating.
I took the cover off and discovered fuel in the oil. The crankcase smelled of fuel. Time to get a non vacuum petcock. i rebuilt the OE petcock and it still wept through when on. i will have to take the carbs back apart to set the float levels, but i am not sure how to do so. i may bump up the pilot jets but i am not sure since i havent taken the bike out of first. main jets should be good. i forgot what jets i put in, i have them written down somewhere. tuning is further down the road. i must now get the clutch to work fully and figure out my fuel issue.

I bought the bike at auction, with 11,705 original miles, (i hope the odometer works). i had to rebuild every hydraulic and i have never gotten the clutch to work. i have confirmed that there isn't air in the clutch hydraulics. I soaked the plates for 6 hours, and i will soak them overnight while they are apart. I ran the bike for 2-3 minutes today, and the oil level didnt change so i dont think very much fuel got in the crankcase. I am praying the bearings are okay. i noticed again that the pressure plate bearing is notchy, and it was notchy before i installed new plates. will be replacing it for the low price of 10.95 (thanks randy) i also confirmed presence of the ball bearing yet again! its there.

i was losing hope, as it is very discouraging. this is my first resto and i love the hell out of my bike. oh the satisfaction i will get once i work out the kinks and take her for a spin.
also, does the shift detent kit require removal of the entire clutch boss and hub??? might as well spend the money to help the shifts.

i do believe i figured out why the clutch isnt fully disengaging!!! i think that the top hat shaped pusher that buts up against the ball bearing wasn't fully in the bearing on the pressure plate, causing the pressure plate to move some, but not fully.

as of right now I am hoping i didn't hurt any engine bearings guys. it should be okay! note that the notchy pressure plate bearing isn't new. it was notchy before some fuel made its way into the engine. not much fuel got in the engine, there wasn't a change in oil level. but it definitely smelled of fuel in the engine. i hope its okay.. any and all input will be greatly appreciated.

[iridewheelies]

I've also experienced this problem with a FJR clutch master.
After repeated attempts to bleed the system, Randy noticed that the clutch basket was moving when disengaging. Turns out that the clutch basket nut had come loose. He tighten it and problem solved.

another quick question i need answered. are you talking about the inner or outer basket? the inner basket/hub will spin with the clutch disengaged. the outer basket does not. im pretty sure the outer basket stays put while disengaged while the inner basket should spin. correct me if i am wrong. thank you

[roortcloud]

The clutch housing is the outermost & largest part of the clutch. This will need to be removed to install the shift kit.
The movement of the housing was not very much and wasn't a problem with the stock clutch master.