Considering an FJ1200

[RobbieKNobbie]

As the title says, I'm looking at either an FJ1200 or possibly a 900 Ninja, both mid 80's originals. While I'm interested in everyone's opinions on which one is a better bike for commuting and occasional weekend jaunts to a campground a  few hours away, that's not really why I'm writing.

It seems like every FJ I've seen has the paint cooked off the cylinder fins, and occasionally the heads as well. Is this a red flag that the motor has been repeatedly overheated, or is the paint known to flake off on its own after 20 years?

I'm aware of the starter clutch and the second gear issues on older models, but are there any other weak links to look for when considering one of these models?

I'm most likely looking at an 88 to 90 model (with the 17 inch tires) but I intend to repaint it in the '84 red/silver paint scheme. (best looking year for the big FJ's IMHO)

Thanks, looking forward to your replies!!!

[Pat Conlon]

Hello Robbie, take a look at this: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2028.0

It is common to have 30 year old paint flake off a big air cooled inline 4 engine. No big deal.
If you're worried about buying a heat damaged engine,  do a hot compression test, or better yet, do a leak down test.

Cheers

[FJmonkey]

The 89+ have 17" front and 16" rear. However, putting a 17" on the rear is easy and well documented. I put a GSXR rear on and it was a bolt on upgrade. Other rears require a little machine work but still worth the upgrade.

[PaulG]

The fins on my '92 ABS are almost bare aluminum, while the rest of the motor is fine.  Strictly a cosmetic issue.  The article cited touches on a few basic commonalities but here's a few extra I came accross when I bought mine in '07 and a few I've heard of:

(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet!  ] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).

Cosmetics:  Since it's built like a tank almost all FJ's will eventually have broken or cracked front fender tab mounts.  This is due to fork flex over time and is cured by a fork brace.  If it has a belly pan, it is quite common for it to crack near the left rear mounting point.  The side covers can crack with the repeated removal over the years, and some of the mounting pegs may be broken.  The fairing "protectors" that are clipped onto the air scoops have a tendancy to go missing - even a minor tip over could knock them off.  All of these are easily repairable with proper ABS cement (not the plumber type) or plastic welding.  These are also usually available on the internet if a replacement is required.  The OEM main front fairings are rather stout since they carry a lot of electronics on the inside.

Suspension:   Both front and rear OEM set-up is overly soft from the factory.  Adequate for sedate touring maybe, but even if you only do the occasional sport ride it will need changing.  Adding fork valves and changing the springs does wonders apparently.  There are also many aftermarket replacement rear shocks from RPM, but also Hagon, Penske, Nitron to name just a few.  The rear linkage gets exposed to a lot of road grime/chain lube.  Lots of needle bearings which can wear that can cause the bike to wander in long corners.

Motor:  A beast. A big lump. Torque monster. Unbreakable.  The EverReady Bunny of engines.  Virtually unchanged during it's production life because it worked so good.  You are already aware of the transmission weakness on the early models.  Simple to work on - no plumbing.  Valve shim adjustments are a breeze and infrequent.  In stock form 200,000-300,000km are common without any rebuilds if the bike hasn't been thrashed around too much.  I'm at around 230,000km.  If you can afford the fines, it will cruise at 100mph for days on end.  Depending on sprocket sizes it can buzz at +/-3,000rpm (carbs out of synch) then +/-4,0000rpm (rubber engine mounts).  If properly maintained this is near to non-existant.

Exhaust:  The OEM mufflers are very heavy but do provide a nice mid-range punch for everyday street riding.  If you change to an aftermarket kit there is little difference.  It creates enough torque to compensate.  The 4-2 collector box underneath the oil pan can rot out - especially if there isn't a belly pan.  The 4-1 RPM system is specifically designed for the FJ - fits under the belly pans - no removal for oil changes.  There are the usual 4-1 (V&H, Supertrapp) that reuire fiddling.  Delkvic has a popular 4-2 system.  I threw on a pair of slip-on cans which doesn't require any rejetting (with ja stock airbox).


You will be inundated with advice on what mods to proceed with even before you buy the bike.  Like I just did...    Oh look I'm not the only one!  The FJ is a very good platform on it's own - but lends itself to a myriad of mods - more so than most bikes due to it's verastility.  Hard core track bike or long distance tourer - or something in between are easily attainable.

I'm sure the GPZ900 is a good bike (never rode one) but (in a very biased opinion) the FJ is the pinnacle for the UJM.

See ya' soon? 

[Pat Conlon]

Well done Paul! 

[big r]

That was very well written and every bit of it is true. When I bought my 86 I found all of these things to be true. There is definitely a huge wealth of info. here. Father Pat is a great source as well Randy and Robert at RPM. The RPM boys have just about everything you need for repairs and can point you in the right direction for anything else you need. Sadly I sold my FJ this spring, not because I wanted to but because the body could not handle it any more. Big R

[FJmonkey]

Maybe Steve (Moparman) will comment, he owns an early 900 Ninja. He only mentioned it having a cooling/over heating issue. Not a big problem unless you get stuck in stop n go stuff.

[gumby302ho]

 Yes all is true about the FJ, its my favorite from the 80's and I own a 86. My very best favorte 2 bikes were the FJ and the ZX900A1, for me they are two of the best looking bikes out of Japan in the 80's and both kick some ass. The Ninja is known for piss poor starter clutch which is a massive repair, never heard anything bad about the FJ starter clutch, they are known for over heating issues that can be modified, hard as hell to bleed the air from cooling system but that being said they are fairly tough engines, powerful liquid cooled quiet engines, very flickable in corners and handles well, power comes from the higher end of the revs and does not have the low end stomp like the FJ, do to the ZX being new design of its erra its smaller 900cc mill and weight compared to the mighty FJ and the Ninja being very narrow in total width its top speed was grater then the FJ. In 1984 TT production class the ZX came in 1st and 2nd, the FJ(1100) was 3rd or fourth, I dont recall if it beat the Suzuki for 3rd. My opinion means beans but if I were you I would go with the FJ, it has so many pro's then con's and is fit for war, the ZX needs a little more ground support but is a great performer. Just standing beside the Ninja you can hear the lumpy cam shafts at idle, its sounds fantastic when kookaloo hits in. If it was simple to post up a pic on here I would show you both bikes, love them both.

[racerrad8]

(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet!  ] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).

Paul,

I hope a heart felt thank you will do.

Thank you 

Randy - RPM

[PaulG]

(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet!  ] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).

Paul,

I hope a heart felt thank you will do.

Thank you 

Randy - RPM

If I ever make it to California you can buy me a decent beer.   

[Mike Ramos]

Howdy RobbieNobbie,
Below is a post from over two years ago (1/10/15).
Still valid - in fact, following this years WCR even more so...
Ride safe...



A Paean to a Sport Tourer

Good evening gentlemen,

After reading the various comments re: The Best Sport-Touring Bike, it may be true that the "Sport" part of sport touring has been diminished.  Large heavyweight motorcycles are for "Touring"; however despite claims to the contrary, they seem to be lacking in the "Sport" department; and while there are true "Sport" motorcycles on the market, they seem to be lacking from the "Touring" aspect.  No doubt there are exceptions to the rule; however they seem to be few and far between.

As it pertains to a combination of over the road and sport riding the FJ performs exceptionally well.  While the design may be old, with the modern updates (suspension, tires, and brakes et al) it is anything but old, and all for much less than the cost of a new motorcycle.  While 100 hp may be modest by today's standard, it remains in and of itself a considerable amount of hp.  It remains competitive with both long distance and sport motorcycles. 

Long service intervals are more than an advantage, they are a necessity.  Hoping not to jinx myself or other owners, the overall reliability of the FJ seems to be quite good and well founded.  As my over the road rides are usually unaccompanied, often fast paced and frequently in desolate and isolated surroundings, it is an important aspect which is appreciated. 

There is also an auxiliary fuel tank utilized because often stops are few and far between; throughout the Western States there are still remnants of small town America left to explore and the extra range is needed during late or all night excursions.  On other occasions mere curiosity gives rise to a desire to explore an intoxicating and beautiful, seemingly unending and almost overwhelming landscape. 

Over the road journeys are exceptionally comfortable; yet should a situation arise where the "sport" aspect is encountered, to date the FJ has held its own against other motorcycles and the occasional encounter with an automobile; typically without regard to ambient conditions and at a moment's notice without fiddling with power modes or on the fly suspension changes.  Especially at night when traveling at speed, unseen and potentially dangerous road surfaces are regularly encountered that simply do not allow time for 'on the fly" adjustments.   

As far as comparative weight, statements about the BMW being lighter are incorrect, add in the weight savings from a modern exhaust and the lithium battery and the FJ is perhaps less.  The high cost of repairs is almost a given as unlike the FJ, most new motorcycles are difficult to repair should an electrical or mechanical problem be encountered.  The driveshaft is more complex than the chain (a 'weak link' in some BMW's) and with the extended life spans of modern chains they are almost a non issue – with few adjustments necessary.

As an aside: However unfounded the claims, it is a fact that the ''lecture'' on chains and auto lubrication was breeding somnolence.  The "testimonials" cited have about as much validity as those quoted when the oil thread discussion gets heated.  As shown in the videos, if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative.  Gentlemen, please do not misconstrue, chain oilers just gotta work 'cause the model most recommended is made by Barnum, specifically the P.T. model.  It is claimed to be better than beer, booze & broads – well better than the beer and booze anyways...  It's positively true; there is even a bottle of Old Calhoun's Whiskey due & payable at the next WCR...!  I know, I know... but someone had to say it, perhaps they will listen now...!    

Back to the subject at hand: it has been said that pictures are quaint, so below is a video that emphasizes both aspects of Sport and Tourer; it is a compilation of rides in 2014.  From November, some high desert footage (while perhaps foreboding I have never found it to be boring) traveling into a beautiful, almost intoxicating, painted sky; when after having left the far northern mountains of California, I ventured south to Texas, then traveled north through the Rockies on the way to Idaho before returning to California.  Almost no traffic so late in the year, a most delightful ride.  There is a clip of a storm front I was heading into, taken when I stopped to change my visor from tint to clear.  Once in Idaho increased rain and a considerable amount of off road mud was encountered.  When there is a discussion about dual sport riding, if tooling along is not your cup of tea, simply be judicious with the throttle and you will not tear up the tires nor fall off the 'edge' of the earth.

Heck, on some unknown back country road there were even wild animals encountered with asses not nearly as wide as the luggage seen on some motorcycles (true touring rigs, no doubt!); fortunately it did not affect the chain – only the fairing and a speck or two on the face shield – however Barnum's semi- automatic face shield cleaner saved the day... whew...      Seeing is believing...!   

Okay, as usual it is mostly true and it all began in the early morning hours while crossing a bridge to who knew where when, once again, I was Wandering Aimlessly...

In closing, Happy New Year to everyone, remember to stay in good humor, laugh at ourselves from time to time (!) and of course always ride safe.

Midget

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAObr8z9Vr0&feature=youtu.be

[Mike Ramos]

BELOW IS THE 2017 WCR....



Hello everyone,

Here is video from the 2017 West Coast Rally.  Although short in length, the objective is that it captures the intensity of the riding; and said riding was all encompassing.  Without exception it was like this all day & each day... just delightful!

It should be noted that riders depicted are closer that they seem – unfortunately a limitation of the type of camera used. 

Other participants (along with those in the video) are Mr. Olsen & Rick C.  The quiet gentleman LA Mike is in the mix as well.  There may be others but I was rather occupied to do an exact count. 

Flynt is usually in view as well, but apparently the first day he was fortifying himself for the elected position for which he was chosen and the second day he was recovering from the effects of the aforementioned fortifying...

Although there are better camera mounts available, this was the only one that made its' way to the Rally.  Apologies as although I am just a little guy, it seems as if a senior moment happened... or so Mr. Conlon explained to me... or was it a Canadian who explained...?  I can't seem to recall...! 

Yet I do recall that the speedometer is a satellite monitored gauge so the speeds noted are actual speeds even though the speedometer is rotated to allow for a better camera angle.  The 12 o'clock position is 100 mph and it tops at 120 mph.  However, it is not all about speed; before one goes quickly, the slow corners must be taken slowly...

All in good fun gentlemen (and the other fellows too...!)

Put it on full screen and turn up the volume!

Ride safe,

Midget

https://youtu.be/JrJLeWX3bZY

[ribbert]

 

.......... if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative.
 

You can see the oil dampness on the side plates and the rollers have a gray film on them which is lubricant. This bike had just been subjected to all the condtions you mentioned so I guess it is benficial! This is not speculation but first hand experience over long distances. Photos so it must have happened.





I had not touched my chain for tens of thousands of km's prior to this photo.


Mike, what do you lube your chain with, especially in wet, dry or dusty conditions?

Noel

[RobbieKNobbie]

Here are a few pics of the FJ I'm looking at... or intend to look at once the owner returns from vacation.

I asked three questions that he was unable to answer, owing, he says, to the very short time he's owned the bike. (he says <200mi)

1. does the V&H pipe on it require removal before changing the oil/filter
2. does the pipe (assuming properly jetted) deminish the low end punch of this motor?
3. does the backrest on that corbin seat remove? (I've seen some that use a single screw to retain a tab that inserts into a slot underneath the Corbin tag on the back, but I've heard others comment that their's are non-removable)
Anything jump out at you about this bike that might raise a red flag?

Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer!

[Country Joe]

1. Yes, you have to remove the V&H pipe to drain the oil. It's not horribly difficult, but make sure you have a set of exhaust port gaskets on hand, just in case.
2. I had a V&H 4-1 on my 1990 FJ 1200, never had the stock exhaust on it, but never felt like it lacked punch on the bottom end. It pulled like a train from 3,500 to the redline.
3. Both Corbin seats I have had on FJs has been removable.
I see some plastic damage, but nothing that would keep me from buying it if the price is right.

Here are a few pics of the FJ I'm looking at... or intend to look at once the owner returns from vacation.

I asked three questions that he was unable to answer, owing, he says, to the very short time he's owned the bike. (he says <200mi)

1. does the V&H pipe on it require removal before changing the oil/filter
2. does the pipe (assuming properly jetted) deminish the low end punch of this motor?
3. does the backrest on that corbin seat remove? (I've seen some that use a single screw to retain a tab that inserts into a slot underneath the Corbin tag on the back, but I've heard others comment that their's are non-removable)
Anything jump out at you about this bike that might raise a red flag?

Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer!