Considering an FJ1200

[RobbieKNobbie]

Thanks for the info, Joe!

Besides the missing plastic bumpers on the air intake and the missing chin spoiler, what damage do you see?

What years of the chin spoiler are interchangable? When I repaint the bike, I'd like to have the bodywork complete, but I think I've read that the plastics are not the same from model to model.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Let's keep it in the family!

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17192.msg89449#new

[Country Joe]

Thanks for the info, Joe!

Besides the missing plastic bumpers on the air intake and the missing chin spoiler, what damage do you see?

What years of the chin spoiler are interchangable? When I repaint the bike, I'd like to have the bodywork complete, but I think I've read that the plastics are not the same from model to model.

Robbie,
The left side windscreen support cover is missing, those are not impossible to find, just yet.
The side scoops bumpers are still available from RPM Racing.
I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.

[FJmonkey]

I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.

The 84/85 are the same, the 86+ are the same.

[Country Joe]

I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.

Mark,
Thanks for the clarification.
Joe
The 84/85 are the same, the 86+ are the same.

[Mike Ramos]

.......... if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative.
 

You can see the oil dampness on the side plates and the rollers have a gray film on them which is lubricant. This bike had just been subjected to all the condtions you mentioned so I guess it is benficial! This is not speculation but first hand experience over long distances. Photos so it must have happened.





I had not touched my chain for tens of thousands of km's prior to this photo.


Mike, what do you lube your chain with, especially in wet, dry or dusty conditions?

Noel

Good evening,

RE: Chain lube. 

[Hmm, this Post was originally from over two years ago – the comments all with good humor – wide saddle bags, face shield cleaner et al, are rather out of context at this late date.]

Noel - To answer your question, I use, and have for a long time the Tri-Flow.  It keeps the O-rings lubricated and intact, which leads to long chain life.  Simple, quick and efficient. 

It cleans up easily with a quick wipe down of the rim & left side of the center stand.  Like you, I seldom adjust the chain.  No sludge build up, even behind the front sprocket cover when changing the sprocket.  Most certainly it doesn't leave the caked on buildup you pictured which would seem a detriment to proper lubrication & lead to excess wear – and as you state, if there are pictures it must be true.

But were comparing apple & oranges... 

Slogging through mud seem to be your forte and you search it out.  Although I do live down a gravel and sometimes muddy road, and I occasionally end up riding down a sandy desert road (and if the conditions are good, several times I have buzzed along with the fabled "dual sports"), I sometimes have no choice in the matter.

However, it is my belief that the high intensity road riding in all kinds of weather year round is hard on the equipment, especially on roads that are in poor condition; much more so that slogging along through the mud and mud puddles (yep, pictures of that too...!).

I do not remember when I last adjusted the chain – the last two sets of tires I simply pulled the axle and did not alter the chain adjustment; the set I road to the Colorado Rally and one set previous (this new set I hope to still be able to ride at the Renegade & RPM Rallies).

The Colorado Rally itself was all at a decent pace and the coming & going was definitely vigorous and unremitting.  At times a lot of rain & some serious muddy road repair work (including pilot cars) could not be avoided. 

Having experienced the riding you do and the nature of the majority that I do, there is no real comparison.

One thing that does parallel is how we observe & perceive of the stars at night – the high desert is not as expansive as the great Outback, but the isolation is spectacular and at times all-embracing... ah but then the mountains with the wind through the trees can be splendid indeed....

Ride safe

[RobbieKNobbie]

Well Gents, looks like today's the day. I'm going to look at the 89 FJ1200 mentioned above after work this evening. While the 900Ninja isn't completely out of contention, I'm leaning towards the FJ, mostly because of the generous low and midrange punch that motor is known for. The owner sent me some pictures of the 'paint scratches' and they're not terrible, but I think I see a broken fairing in there. Not the end of the world since I plan to repaint it over the winter, but it is another pain in the rear to deal with.





The engine cover on the other hand, uhmm, I don't know about that. Are they still available? I just did a quick ebay search and came up with just one, and it's in maybe acceptable condition. Are there any other models that use this same cover?

Lot of surface rust here and there. Do these bikes have any known weak spots when it comes to rust?

Here's the complete CL ad...
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6232074300.html

I think his price is a little high for the condition, but I'm sure we will be able to work something out if it's the right bike.

[racerrad8]

Pictures from photobucket are not working but looking at the add it appears the Ignition Pick-Up Cover is what you are referring too. Click the blue letters and it will take you to brand new ones. Also, if you do end up picking the FJ up these, 84-90 FJ Engine Bar Set, as many here can attest are a very wise investment to prevent that from happening again.

Robert - RPM

[RobbieKNobbie]

Well it turns out it was the right bike at the right price. I'm the very happy owner of a bouncing baby FJ1200

The clutch needed a bleeding (bad!), but aside from that it seems to be mechanically sound. I put about 50 miles on it last night and I noticed the shifter effort is a little higher than I'm comfortable with, but I'm not going to worry about that until I put good oil in there. The rear brake feels like it might be warped, so I'll put an indicator on there and see what it looks like.  Aside from that it needs good going over with a can of lube (levers, cables, chain, suspension etc. That'll be a good opportunity to get to know the bike better and look for any potential problems.

The pipes do need to be removed for an oil change, the headers collect together directly below the drain plug  and there's about 2mm clearance before the drain plug head hits the pipe.

All in all, I'm looking forward to many many happy miles with my new friend!

[Bill_Rockoff]

Congratulations!

The slave cylinder seal is a known failure point; the engines get hot, the seals get brittle, and then air leaks in / fluid leaks out. Bleeding it is a short-term fix once the seal gets hardened, and it can be tough to bleed even with a good seal. (I find it helps to wiggle the line between the slave cylinder and the bottom of the left-hand fairing, which helps air bubbles rise to the master cylinder.) Replacing the seal is not expensive, I'm sure Randy (post above yours) has plenty in stock for about the price of a tank of fuel. Worse comes to worst, even a new slave cylinder is not that bad, price wise, but I have had good luck cleaning mine thoroughly (I think I replaced it once, 50,000 miles ago.)

I find shift quality to vary wildly depending on what oil is in the crankcase, how much of it is still there, and how old or hot it is. I have my best results with "the heaviest Mobil 1 I can find," preferably 15w-50 but it's been okay lately on whatever-w-40 that's in there now. Shift quality gets worse as the mileage accumulates since the last oil change, and 3,000 miles was about where I felt it appropriate to change the oil. Nowadays, it burns enough oil to light the "OIL" light long before that, which also makes the shift quality worse; I top it off which helps the shifting (and the oil light.) And, as it gets hot in commuter traffic, the shifting gets rougher as the oil gets hotter. A few minutes at speed makes it better again.

Enjoy the bike!

[RobbieKNobbie]

Bill, Thanks for the great info on the clutch. I just ordered a rebuild kit, so hopefully that issue will be headed off before it gets serious.

Are you using standard (automotive) Mobil 1, or is there a motorcycle-specific blend out there?

[Pat Conlon]

Robbie's new, so be kind folks.

Short Answer: Robbie, you want a motorcycle specific oil, one that is safe for wet clutches. Automotive oils have friction modifiers in them which can cause clutch slippage. Mobil 1 makes a motorcycle specific oil.

We have had several long debates on this forum on oil for our FJ's and so we tend to shy away from that topic.

So....what about those Dodgers?

[FJmonkey]

What oil are the Dodgers using? That has to be some really good stuff...

[PaulG]

Lot of surface rust here and there....

Not to worry, that's called patina

What oil are the Dodgers using? That has to be some really good stuff...

Why it must be this obviously...

[FJmonkey]

That seems bad for my liver and the bike... But I bet it feels sooooo good.