Two 1984 FJ1100s at Mount Crawford, South Australia

[rktmanfj]

The number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen.

Try applying a strip of electrical tape along the top of your visor.

Cheap, and easy to adjust or remove if you don't like it.   

[The General]

The number of times I`ve used my hand to shade the sun in certain situations tempts me to buy one with a peak, but never been able to test one with an FJ screen.

Try applying a strip of electrical tape along the top of your visor.

Cheap, and easy to adjust or remove if you don't like it.   

I`ve actually tried that and it`s probly the best solution economically, esp when I only put strip in the centre and diminished to the sides....and this is another point against some  cheap helmets.....I find the opening above my eyes and to the sides to some extent, along with correct fitting to be essential (imho) for observing where both sides of the road meet together ahead, when cornering. The tilt of my noggin doesn`t find it that natural to see it without physically tilting my head hard up in that leaning position. I find I get the perfect line everytime when I force myself to watch that pinprick junction that changes by the second sometimes. So Helmet aperture size I find important, along with relationship of pads to noggin position. (I know a peak has more control of sun shadow, motorcross helmets also have bigger apertures but not sure how the road variety of helmet peak will affect this aspect of my riding) 

[nchattaway]

I spoke with Arnie today by phone, regarding suspension improvements. Thanks for your time Arnie, most helpful and enjoyable chatting. Can anyone tell me, does the Clymer FJ manual have the factory damper inserts shown upside down in the exploded part diagram? When we stripped down the forks on #502, they were in the wrong way up compared to the Clymer manual.

[TexasDave]

I have both the Clymer manual (2nd edition 1996) and the Yamaha factory Service manual. Both exploded views are the same in them.  Dave

[Nova]

Sorry for veering off topic, but I did a quick Google search and couldn't find this windscreen. Anyone know where one could be found?  They didn't sell them in Canada either.

I've been looking for one of these for a while as well. I happened to see one this morning for sale on ebay out of Japan and snagged it. 

[ribbert]

Sorry for veering off topic, but I did a quick Google search and couldn't find this windscreen. Anyone know where one could be found?  They didn't sell them in Canada either.

I've been looking for one of these for a while as well. I happened to see one this morning for sale on ebay out of Japan and snagged it. 

Well done! I imagine these would be virtually no existent in the US as they were never fitted to the bikes sold there (and apparently Canada) and I don't believe an aftermarket version was ever made.

I imagine many of the bikes originally fitted with them would no longer have them either, having been replaced with conventional aftermarket screens when broken.

I have a spare I paid $500 for. It was a good deal, it came with a complete operational FJ attached!

I have never seen one for sale in 7 years here in Australia and I have only ever seen 2 late model headlights for sale over that time as well, I grabbed one of them a few weeks back. Hunting around for these sort of model specific parts only when you need them could see your bike laid up for a long time. It's good having spare body work tucked away.

Good luck finding one.

Noel

[nchattaway]

I have both the Clymer manual (2nd edition 1996) and the Yamaha factory Service manual. Both exploded views are the same in them.  Dave

Thanks Dave. My Clymer manual, despite being bought brand new 2 months ago from an ex Yamaha dealer, is the 1st edition! I wonder if the incorrect fork dis assembly / assembly instructions is one of the reasons FOR the 2nd edition. Now I feel like the $60 I got slugged was a ripoff.

[nchattaway]

Hello again all.
Life sometimes gets in the way and I can't believe it's been over half a year since my last update! I sold the original FJ1100 project bike to a nice fellow in Vic who already owned an FJ1100 going concern, so he's going to be finishing that one off some time.

I toyed around with the idea of shelling out $13,500 for one of the new Yam XSR900 triples. But then I remembered that's about $13,400 more than my budget, so here I am back on the FJOwners forum with my shiny new HEL clutch braided clutch line having arrived by post this arvo, looking for a replacement master cylinder diaphragm. Yes, my remaining FJ1100's slave cylinder is sneakily emptying the contents of the reservoir when the bike sits unused.

I've ordered a slave cyl rebuild kit from the US, thought it was high time to ditch the factory rubber clutch hose assy in the same job.

If anyone has ideas about where to find one of these for an 84, I'd be glad to hear from you.

[balky1]

Hello again all.
Life sometimes gets in the way and I can't believe it's been over half a year since my last update! I sold the original FJ1100 project bike to a nice fellow in Vic who already owned an FJ1100 going concern, so he's going to be finishing that one off some time.

I toyed around with the idea of shelling out $13,500 for one of the new Yam XSR900 triples. But then I remembered that's about $13,400 more than my budget, so here I am back on the FJOwners forum with my shiny new HEL clutch braided clutch line having arrived by post this arvo, looking for a replacement master cylinder diaphragm. Yes, my remaining FJ1100's slave cylinder is sneakily emptying the contents of the reservoir when the bike sits unused.

I've ordered a slave cyl rebuild kit from the US, thought it was high time to ditch the factory rubber clutch hose assy in the same job.

If anyone has ideas about where to find one of these for an 84, I'd be glad to hear from you.

I have entered the part number for it in Google and it seems this store has it: http://shop.gpsportsonline.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085
That's the way I usually try to find "hard-to-find" parts. Put the part no. in Google and check every link it pops out. Sometimes you are lucky that someone still has it. Send a couple of e-mails for confirmation and that's it.
Try these also, send e-mails: http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104
http://shop.nrys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3936471&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=177104
http://w.dhy.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=3935678&category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1984&fveh=177085
http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/1984/front-master-cylinder-2.html

Is it the same one on FJ1200? Check it.

[nchattaway]

Thanks! Also, RPM emailed to say that the later 86-93 FJ1200 clutch master cyl diaphragm does fit the FJ1100. So, problem solved guys!

[balky1]

Thanks! Also, RPM emailed to say that the later 86-93 FJ1200 clutch master cyl diaphragm does fit the FJ1100. So, problem solved guys!

That's great because they are cheaper than the ones for 1100, if you even manage to find it.

[nchattaway]

OK, I'm after a bit of advice.

1. Who is using a Corbin Gunfighter seat, and do you like it? Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.

2. Who has fitted a tube handlebar conversion and what product do you recommend? I've seen the LSL one RPM offers, but it seems very expensive and I'm sure I could buy a couple of clamps that I drill and bolt to the factory top fork clamp. I'm pretty happy with the stock FJ1100 seat to bar relationship, but if I lift the seat 30mm I'll want to lift the bars 30mm too, and maybe give them a bit more width. Thoughts?

3. I'm 94kg and planning on fitting the Racetech cartridge emulators and some racetech springs. Should I go for .95kg/m?

4. With the fork rebuild I plan on ditching the anti dive. Can I leave them on the forks, but just not fit the brake lines down to them? I need to know since I want to buy a set of 3 braided brake hoses, but dont' know if I'd be ordering FJ1200 brake lines (3) or FJ1100 brake lines (5). Are the FJ11 and 12 brake lines otherwise identical? Obviously I'd only need the short banjo bolts at the calipers to take a single hose.

Cheers,
Nathan

[PaulG]

1. ... Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.

I've had an Air Hawk cushion for 4 seasons now and it's a great investment.  I first bought it when I went to the GP in Texas in '13.  It was about a 5,000km round trip from Toronto - and it was the first ride of the year.  I only just got the bike serviced and ready 2 weeks before after winter storage, and I knew this was going to grind me down physically.

Six hrs on the road was not a problem.  The 8-10 hr days were a grind for the last 2-3 hrs.  Then again I'm not that young anymore, or flexible, or physically fit...  but I still have all my hair and teeth!  It will add a little bit of height to the seat but not as much as you might think.  When it's inflated there is actually very little air in it.  Too much air and it balloons up between your crotch and squishes your nuts.  Fully inflated you will actually start to bounce around, and the cushion can flex sideways making it a bit unstable.  The first couple of rides you will have to adjust the air volume to suit.

Only minor flaw is the mounting straps and hooks are knda flimsy.  They work ok I guess but a simple strap with a velcro backing would have been better.

It's a relatively cheap alternative to forking out for a new seat and I think a real ass saver for those long touring days or trips.  FWIW.

[Pat Conlon]

OK, I'm after a bit of advice.

1. Who is using a Corbin Gunfighter seat, and do you like it? Who has tried an Airhawk seat cushion? I'm thinking the bike would be more comfortable on long rides if the seat was maybe 30mm higher than stock, so I'd have a bit more legroom down to the pegs.

I have the Corbin gunfighter seat on my '84 and I love it. For years I've resisted buying a Corbin because I felt that the seats are too hard, so I used my oem seat with a sheepskin cover. The sheepskin allowed my butt to breathe on long trips. While the Corbin seat is hard when you first sit on it, after 200 miles you will appreciate it  I tried the Airhawk and it was comfortable, but only for freeway miles. I felt unstable in the twistys.
You are on the right track about increasing your seat to peg distance. I installed some Buell pegs that lowered my pegs ~1.25" and these made a remarkable difference.


http://www.buellparts.net/content-product_info/product_id-1427/firebolt_xb_footpeg_kit_rider.html

2. Who has fitted a tube handlebar conversion and what product do you recommend? I've seen the LSL one RPM offers, but it seems very expensive and I'm sure I could buy a couple of clamps that I drill and bolt to the factory top fork clamp. I'm pretty happy with the stock FJ1100 seat to bar relationship, but if I lift the seat 30mm I'll want to lift the bars 30mm too, and maybe give them a bit more width. Thoughts?

Be careful here...Don't cheap out on your handlebar clamps.  You life depends on them. If you drill your FJ top triple clamp for the 4 bar clamp mounting bolts you may find that you don't have enough meat (material) on the FJ triple clamp to properly support the bolts. Having just one of those 4 clamp bolts come loose at the wrong moment will ruin your day. I recall the FJ top triple has a stepped surface (not flat) so I'm not sure about mounting bar clamps anyway.
IF you can not afford quality, start by getting some less expensive bar riser spacers.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHandleBarRiser

3. I'm 94kg and planning on fitting the Racetech cartridge emulators and some racetech springs. Should I go for .95kg/m?

Back in the early '90's I had the Race Tech Emulators and 1.0 kg/mm springs. I'm 90 kg without gear and felt that 1.0 kg/mm springs were slightly on the stiff side for solo street riding. However, you would be ok with 1.0 kg/mm springs. .95 kg/mm springs may be a bit light if you carry a passenger and/or luggage.
Race Tech emulators are a step up from the oem FJ damper rod forks, but again, that was '80's technology. Better options exist today.
Personally, I would not spend any money on Race Tech fork components. The RPM IAT fork valves and matching springs are superior.

4. With the fork rebuild I plan on ditching the anti dive. Can I leave them on the forks, but just not fit the brake lines down to them? I need to know since I want to buy a set of 3 braided brake hoses, but dont' know if I'd be ordering FJ1200 brake lines (3) or FJ1100 brake lines (5). Are the FJ11 and 12 brake lines otherwise identical? Obviously I'd only need the short banjo bolts at the calipers to take a single hose.

I'll let others chime in on this one. I have no experience on Anti Dive (AD) removal. I converted my forks over to the '89-93 forks when I did my first mod so the AD units went away at that time..
I recall FJ Monkey Mark mentioning that all you had to do is to flip the AD units upside down.
I also recall special blank off plates with the needed proper oil passages so you can remove the AD units entirely.

Stand by for more....

Cheers  Pat

[Troyskie]

G'day Nathan,
Re the anti-dive removal, it depends on how much you want to spend.
I did the springs and race tech mod on my 11 & think it's wonderful. I simply left the old anti dive units connected and in place.
There are opinions about some delay/loss of braking force as the anti dive circuit still operates, but I can't feel it. However I am not a particularly sporty rider.
From a budget perspective, leave the anti dive in place and see what you think once you've done the fork fix, then blank off or what ever method you choose if you think it needs it.
Another option is to upgrade the whole front end. Down your way I think you'll likely be able to find a later model FJ front end from a wrecker pretty cheaply, then you have a 17" front tyre and better forks with no anti dive issue. I've done that to my 12 & think it was a notable improvement. Corners don't feel quicker, but smoother. Swapping between bikes and I can now confidently say the newer front end is worth it.

If you do go to the wreckers, try and get a GSXR750 rear as well. This wheel will slip right in and you'll have a 17" rear so you can have radial front and back. Your FJ will then be in the performance and handling neighbourhood that XSR900 (yeah I know you can't beat modern tech). There are excellent instructions on how to do this in the files section.

I'm with Pat on the Corbin. They feel firm at first, but are a back saver if you have a fun day of twisties. They are also fine for highway boringness.

Troy