Two 1984 FJ1100s at Mount Crawford, South Australia

[nchattaway]

Actually, now that I've ridden for a few hundred kays, a bit of a look around the bike shows one possible contributor to the gear select problem. The clutch master cyl is weeping from the actuation rod seal behind the lever. Horrible rusty coloured junk that bears no resemblance to hydraulic fluid.

In addition to this, both fluid level inspection windows have been plugged with some kind of putty. Looks like i will be replacing the hydraulics next...

[oldktmdude]

   I doubt that the clutch has anything to do with the second gear problem as it is not even necessary to use it when changing up gears.

[nchattaway]

I think it's a combination of me riding with soft leather "business shoes", the gear lever being adjusted too high for my preference (a 30 second fix!), some selector fork wear and maybe the mushy clutch master.

Anyway, I need to rectify it now that I've noticed it leaking such horrible junk. I read the VFR800 master cylinder replacement thread in the files section, so that looks promising. I've found the following Chinese repro part deal:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-7-8-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Master-Cylinder-Reservoir-For-Honda-VFR800-02-12-/351446530062?hash=item51d3d8780e:g:6dYAAOSw3ydVkz8g

Anyone have a set like these? They look a bit more modern than the pair Fred is using on his 89.

[Arnie]

That set of master cyls for the brake and clutch look very nice.
However, nowhere in the description do they tell you the bore size.
And there is no mention if the built-in switch is NO or NC.

I'd ask those questions before purchase.
And maybe if the levers can be purchased separately (in case of an "oopsie")

Arnie

[nchattaway]

They are supposed to be a direct replacement for VFR800 2002-2012, which uses 14mm bore. They also sell VFR800 1998-2001 which is a different bore size, and I think that's what Fred bought at the time.

People want $100 for a used genuine VFR800 clutch master cyl assembly, line and slave cyl assembly that have already done 35000miles, and would probably need kitting.

Good question about the levers.

Nathan

[Urban_Legend]

A shift detent kit from RPM made a huge difference to my second gear issue and the clutch used to slip the down shifting for spirited overtaking. much improved now. Took me about an hour to install. http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=detent


Mark

[bikemad]

It says 5/8" on the body of the clutch master cyl(in your earlier photos) and seals are available from any decent auto  brake/clutch refurb
centre(about $5ea).
I recently rebuilt a SRX600 master cylinder this way and it works fine.

I had to have the groove in the piston of a rd400 master cyl widened to accept the seal but that's been working for about 15 years now!

I have remade the windows out of Perspex and found it easier to shape them on a linisher belt and then "glued" them in with auto black silicon.
There is no pressure in that area of the reservoir so it works well.

If you paint with black two pack paint it's happy with brake fluid and the jobs done.

Cheers Ian.

[nchattaway]

For now, I've gone with a genuine FJ1100 clutch master cylinder rebuild kit in the original cylinder. I'm just living with the dodgy looking (but sealed) plug where the level inspection window was. The clutch feels way more progressive now!

I've adjusted the gearshift level down a tiny bit, which feels better for me. Only one false neutral / second gear jumpout since then. If I'm positive on the shift into second, it holds in gear right to redline. Will look into the RPM shift detent kit, but shipping costs to Australia seem excessive generally.

I'm taking this FJ1100 (#1136) on a 1200km loop of Western Vic with some mates next weekend, so have been trying to sort out the big issues over the last few weeks.

Clutch master sorted, both clutch and brake lines completely flushed out, filled with new DOT4 and bled up nicely. New oil, filter. New tyres. I went with a Bridgestone BT45 on the front and a Bridgestone Exedra on the back, which is only H rated. Looks like I'm stuck to 210kph now guys. That's go straight to jail territory in Aust anyway, so somehow I think not having a V rated rear tyre shouldn't be too much of a Kookaloo Killer. This was all the bike shop had in stock for the 16" wheels. I got a great price, $285 fitted for the pair!

The bike really turns in beautifully now and feels 30kg lighter than it did with the old tyres, which had been worn down to the bars in the centre but had nearly all their tread on any kind of lean, so squared off badly.

Next job will be stripping down the front end to repack the headstem bearings and change the forks over with the rebuilt ones from #502. Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with both progressive front springs AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...

[nchattaway]

Moto Moto. The name so nice, ya gotta say it twice...

Just a pic of my little collection, sitting out in the Goat Shed. I can see potential.

[bikemad]

A great price on the tyres!
I just paid $429 for a set of Avon Roadriders fitted to my fj1200.
Living away from the big cities means higher prices.

[Pat Conlon]

Good job on the restoration. Those bikes are lucky to have you as their owner. Kudos

Be careful with second gear. Once it jumps out of gear, the damage is done. The shift fork is bent. If it keeps happening your gear engagement dogs will be damaged (rounded off)
Tread softly in second gear grasshopper. Short shift. Save your money. Once the bike jumps out of second gear the RPM shift detent kit will not solve the problem. Only new shifting forks will fix it (along with backcuting the dogs)

.....Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with both progressive front springs AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...

Yes, all 1984 to 1987 FJ's came with the same front tire size: 120/80-16 No controversy there.

The controversy surrounds the later '88-95 FJ's that came with the front 17"dia. X 3" wide wheel and an oem 120/70-17 tire.

What to replace it with? 120 vs. 110?

Looking up various tire manufacturer's installation specifications for today's radial tires shows that they specify a 3.5" wide rim to fit a 120/70-17 tire. The smaller 110/70-17 size is specified for the narrow 3" wide FJ rim.

A 3" wide rim vs a 3.5" wide rim.....Does a rim 1/4" narrower on each side really pinch the tire?  Really?

[nchattaway]

Thanks for the wise words Pat. Splitting the casings is a way bigger job than I had in mind for this stage of my ownership. My first FJ1100 has a comparatively sharper feeling shift and hasn't jumped out of second at all, but that's only in about 200km of riding. Perhaps that transmission would furnish a worthwhile gearshaft if and when I come to that expensive job. But I'd say getting the RPM shift forks would be a definite if I was to undertake a rebuild.

In the 3 times my bike has jumped out of second, it has been almost immediately after selecting second, in what I would call a false neutral situation. It used to happen a fair bit with the two ZZR-600s and the ZZR-1100 I used to own, and those bikes were quite new at the time. Kwakas aren't known for precise gearshifts, like say a Suzuki GSXR. When I shift up into second firmly, it has never jumped out. But I won't push my luck in second. There's plenty of thrust on offer in 3rd anyway.

Today, in prep for my trip in less than a week, I swapped the Gearsack rack from #502 onto #1136. The rear indicators on #1136 have been moved back and mounted under the rear license number plate to allow for the fitment of panniers, and I was worried they would foul the Gearsack topbag rack, but they clear it by a few mills. Phew! I changed over the alloy grab handle too, since a PO had tapped and threaded holes in one to fit a McGyvered Ventura top rack. Bit of a nasty job and very ugly. There are a lot of fiddly plastic cover panels around the tail section; lots to break! I wonder why the whole tail section wasn't designed as a two halves or a single section like most seem to be nowadays.

Anyone know how to fix drooping pillion pegs? Both of my bikes have drooping rear pegs. Looks like welding a washer inside the U shackle could do the trick?

Also, the front brake light switch is gone. Is this a tricky changeover? I had only 1 hour to play around and used it all up fitting the above stuff so didn't get to the switch. Any pointers to look out for?

[ribbert]

.....Looking at the original owner's handbook, all FJ1100s came from the factory with ......... AND 120x80 section front tyres, not 110. In Aus anyway. Let the controversy begin...

Yes, all 1984 to 1987 FJ's came with the same front tire size: 120/80-16 No controversy there.

The controversy surrounds the later '88-95 FJ's that came with the front 17"dia. X 3" wide wheel and an oem 120/70-17 tire.

What to replace it with? 120 vs. 110?

Looking up various tire manufacturer's installation specifications for today's radial tires shows that they specify a 3.5" wide rim to fit a 120/70-17 tire. The smaller 110/70-17 size is specified for the narrow 3" wide FJ rim.

A 3" wide rim vs a 3.5" wide rim.....Does a rim 1/4" narrower on each side really pinch the tire?  Really?

Installation guides are just that, guides, not gospel and one thing they probably don't take into account is that most modern bikes with a 3" rim are much smaller and lighter. Bikes the size and weight of the FJ now having wider rims.

The FJ came with a 120 from the factory. I have read here from time to time that it was a "small" 120 made just for the FJ, not so.

I posted my own experience with this just recently, and at length, and suggested it doesn't matter, but my personal preference is for the bigger tyre.

Or, as my tyre man put it when I asked him what he thought about it once, he gave me a funny look and said "why the fuck would you want to put one of those skinny little things on bike like that?"

Noel

[nchattaway]

I am pleased to report that I've just got back from three days on the road with FJ1100 #1136. It was our first tour together and nothing major went wrong. A big relief! The clutch master didn't leak at all, so the rebuild kit seems to have done the job. I did lose the bolt from the bracket that holds the slip on muffler to the pillion peg mount casting, but had 500 assorted cable ties with me so this took but seconds to jury rig.

In a trip of around 1400km, riding at 100 - 120kph with five mates on their bikes (mostly American style big twin cruisers and one cheeseburger cheese yellow BMW R1100) #1136 used 800ml of oil. I didn't think this was too bad for a 32 year old bike with 70,000km on the clock. I accelerated in 3rd gear past my mechanic friend on his Harley and then closed the throttle at 8000rpm so he could see what was going on and it's definitely valve stem seals, throwing out some blue grey smoke after bottling off. He said under hard acceleration there was a little bit of black smoke which means it's running a bit rich. Good to know.

I discussed pulling the motor down to fit Fred's old 1200 cylinder block and pistons, and reconditioning the head at the same time with my mates. Everyone thought it'd be a fun project and something I could easily tackle myself with the Clymer manual and my existing tools. What say you? With all of your help, can I safely embark on a rebuild? While it's apart would be a good time to break down the transmission and fit new shift forks as well, and look at the clutch. How much would I be looking at if I bought all the seals, gaskets, rings and bearings, plus a new cam chain and tensioner from RPM, shipped to Adelaide do you think?

I pulled the speedo cable off very early in the trip since it started howling like #502 also does! D'oh! But it was so much nicer not listening to that horrible noise all the time, so
I've decided I am now going to look for a basic digital GPS speedo to affix to the clear plastic screen over the old speedo. Something small, not like a car map GPS navigator. Anyone have any recommendations?

After 3 days in the saddle, I reckon it would be useful to have some front mount highway pegs, just to be able to stretch out the knees every now and again. What can you all suggest along those lines?

A pic of our pack of bikes parked in the main street of Casterton, Vic. Or was it Stawell? Help, you Victorians...

[Arnie]

I've tried putting Highway pegs on my '91 in a couple of locations and found them horribly uncomfortable.
With engine protection bars, to mount them on, it might be better.
My problem was that I felt like a 1/2 opened jackknife, bent at the waist.

Getting 1" drop pegs and re-upholstering the seat worked much better for me.