Just Because

[movenon]

The slides are different. The 1200 slide has different cut on the bottom. The 1100 slides I think are flat across the bottom.  Beyond that I can't say anything. You might send an e mail to RPM.  Randy will know if you can replace all the slide with 1200's.  I assume the diameters are the same?

You can change out the diaphragms independently with after market diaphragms. But ask questions before you buy them. I have never seen (other than online) or used any.
George

[ct7088]

The slides in my 85 that was built in 84 has curved bottom slides. The slides are original.

Chris

[Pat Conlon]

The slides in my early 84 were flat bottom. The emulsion tubes that had a shroud did not work well with my flat bottomed slides. I could not get a good idle.

Contact Randy @ RPM

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks. I will flick Randy an email. Probably would hurt if I upgraded my slides anyway. I am pretty sure the original motor for my bike (which the carbs are off) had a lot more than the signposted 50000km. Would be more like 150+km, so everything is/was well worn.  Same as I am sure the current motor has more than 35000km stated for it.

[Mark Olson]

If  your float level is off you can get the kind of problem you are experiencing..

Also here is a link I use for tuning carbs. http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

Use the high rpm method.

[Urban_Legend]

Hey all

Had another bit of a tinker with the carbies on the bike today. Found out some stuff, not much of it good  . First I changed the needle height. that made a big difference and the bike started first kick, with no choke. This is not usual for my bike. It was also revving high. Hmmmm. Did the thumb test on the diaphragms. Seems like I have 3 buggered ones. SH!T. Bit more investigation I also probably have a vacuum leak too. Can't find it though, as everything seems to be as it should.

Why is it when you drop a screw/bolt/nut it will always find the most inaccessible spot to fall too, and if I did manage to touch it, it falls into an even hard place to get to. Grrrrr

Ok so I decided to have a go as advancing the timing as per directed. Seems like some unmentionable previous owner has stripped out the Philips bit holes. No go there either, not without stuffing up the screws completely and I have no spares. 

Next job......the old motor, lets look at that and decide what to do with that. It is alrady in a million pieces. Head is stuffed with burnt out valves, but I already knew that. checking over the case and there next to the counter shaft sprocket. a big crack. Case Stuffed.

So here I sit with my glass of bourbon try to think of the next step. I do know of someone wanting to sell an 88FJ parts bike with two motors for a very reasonable price. the only issue is it is 8 hours drive away. Still making the old 1100 into a 1200 sounds like a reasonable plan at the moment.
More to come.

Mark

[Urban_Legend]

So last night after a few relaxing bourbons, I decided onb2 courses of action.
First was to try and fix up my crappy diaphragms and find and fix my vacuum leaks. Today I bought some liquid insulation tape to coat the diaphragms.  I also got some rubber grease to coat the ends of all the tubes, block off caps an around the edge of the diaphragms to give a nice wet seal.

The aim of this is to keep the bike rideable over our summer months.

Second it to purchase the 1200 parts bike and make my old 84 1100 into a 1200 hybrid. Who cares about concourse,  the bike has so many mods now, what's a few more. Moditis is a serious illness.   

[Mark Olson]

So last night after a few relaxing bourbons, I decided onb2 courses of action.
First was to try and fix up my crappy diaphragms and find and fix my vacuum leaks. Today I bought some liquid insulation tape to coat the diaphragms.  I also got some rubber grease to coat the ends of all the tubes, block off caps an around the edge of the diaphragms to give a nice wet seal.

The aim of this is to keep the bike rideable over our summer months.

Second it to purchase the 1200 parts bike and make my old 84 1100 into a 1200 hybrid. Who cares about concourse,  the bike has so many mods now, what's a few more. Moditis is a serious illness.   

That's the spirit ...Moditis can be treated with a continual dose of tinkering with your FJ. 

[Urban_Legend]

I finally got to take the bike for a bit of a run this afternoon. first one since i had the carbies apart. The carbs could do with a balance, but i defiantly picked up a few of the missing horses. It now revs freely thought the rev range, and pulls harder than it ever did from 3000 plus.

I returned the primary jets to 40s and raised the needle to the forth slot. The bike now only requires the choke for initial start up, and not for very long. (2 or 3 minutes)
Just need to find a way to stop the oil light from coming on under acceleration now. I have filled the oil to the top of the sight glass, and still doesn't like a full twist of the throttle. One step at a time.

Every little thing i do is an improvement.

Mark

[Urban_Legend]

Hope this works. here is a little vid of the bike in operationhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pwt4mASacKw. (it was warmed before i revved it.)

Mark

[Mark Olson]

Sounds pretty good. 

On the subject of your oil light , from the vid it looks like you have a spin on filter.
Unless the filter has the drain back feature , it will give a false oil level.

Try this, warm bike up to normal idle then shut down and put on center stand . wait 5 min and check your level . top off to the top mark.
Reason is the spin on filters have extra capacity and will empty out into pan when the bike sits and give a false full level , but when started up the oil goes back into the filter and you are now low.

I use the k/n filter from RPM that has an anti-siphon feature to prevent drain back .. started using them because of the oil level problem . There are other filters you can use with the same feature but they were too large for me and I would hit them with my boot when riding.

That being said , I will still get an oil light only on hard white knuckle acceleration or when climbing a steep grade leaned way over .
This is normal and no problem as the oil light is just a level indicator and not pressure.

Maybe you already know all this and I have wasted your time, but maybe someone doesn't and it will help them too. 

Peace out.   

[racerrad8]

Or you might just need a new one of these...Oil Level Sensor

Randy - RPM

[Mark Olson]

Or you might just need a new one of these...Oil Level Sensor

Randy - RPM

that would be too simple ..gotta make the problem harder than it is. 

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks for the info Mark and Randy.
I do hope it is Randy's solutuon though.
The oil light comes on from spirited acceleration from standing starts (intersections etc. ) and slow corners (right handers are the worst offenders) and also when you hit the kookaloo zone.
The bike does have two small oil leaks that just won't fix and i think it must be burning a bit too, although there is no visible smoke. I has been using about 500ml of oil over 1000km ish.
I am aslo pretty sure it needs the valve shims done too, but i need to get the gaskets and bolt rubbers if i am to do these, and someone with some experience in doing them (who has a shim kit) would help too.

Mark

[oldktmdude]

Thanks for the info Mark and Randy.
I do hope it is Randy's solutuon though.
The oil light comes on from spirited acceleration from standing starts (intersections etc. ) and slow corners (right handers are the worst offenders) and also when you hit the kookaloo zone.
The bike does have two small oil leaks that just won't fix and i think it must be burning a bit too, although there is no visible smoke. I has been using about 500ml of oil over 1000km ish.
I am aslo pretty sure it needs the valve shims done too, but i need to get the gaskets and bolt rubbers if i am to do these, and someone with some experience in doing them (who has a shim kit) would help too.

Mark

Mark, if you're coming down for Troy's Manshed days next month, I'll take all the necessary tools, shims etc to do your valves. I have quite a few shims in the 2.70 - 2.90 range. You may need some thinner ones so if you could borrow as many as you can, we should be good to go.
                                                                                                                                                                                Regards, Pete. 
PS.  This also applies to anyone else that may want to check their valve clearances.