New Gauges

[Urban_Legend]

Thanks Fred. Does that mean I set it as an 8cylinder?
Pat. The remotenswitch is not an issue. The gauge bezel hitting the clear cover is the issue. Glad I have a old cracked one to plat with to get it right. I an thinking a bit of heat to mold the cover a bit. The other thing that needed modifying/ removal was the plastic support posts that head the original gauges in place. Again I am glad I can mock this up in an old cluster.

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, thanks Mark!

Let us know how everything turns out. You will like that GSXR 17" rear wheel conversion.

[Troyskie]

Sweeeeeet

[Urban_Legend]

Pat. I was hoping to do the rear wheel conversion this weekend,  but alas I still need a brake line. Maybe next weekend now. Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks with Racetech Springs and emulators (sorry RPM came down to price, the Aussie dollar is crap at the moment) , wheel and calipers next weekend too.

[aviationfred]

Hopefully there is instructions on how to set the tachometer. The signal from the engine to the tachometer acts as if it is a 2 cylinder engine.

On my Drift brand tach, I had to set the number of cylinders, and the number of coils.

Fred

[ribbert]

 ........but alas I still need a brake line.

Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?

Noel

[Urban_Legend]

Hey Fred

I got the tach sorted easy enough. The wiring was easier than I thought. I patched it into the existing wiring. I tapped the tacho and fuel gauge into the wires that I unscrewed to remove the old gauges (grey wire for the tach and green for the fuel gauge. followed the schematic in the Hayne guide.) everything else was pretty much either power (for dash lights, memory etc) or ground wires.

[Urban_Legend]

 ........but alas I still need a brake line.

Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?

Noel

Hey noel. I was going to go up and over.

[ribbert]

 ........but alas I still need a brake line.

Mark, are you running the line forward from the caliper or back, up and over?

Noel

Hey noel. I was going to go up and over.

Going forward looks a lot neater and is how I believe most of the bikes with underslung calipers are routed anyway.

     

....and how it looks on the FJ


Noel

[CutterBill]

... Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks...

So I take it that the re-chroming didn't hurt the plastic valves in the bottom of the fork tubes?  Or did you figure out a way to remove them?  Gauges look awesome!
Bill

[Urban_Legend]

... Will have my rebuilt (and re chromed) 89 forks...

So I take it that the re-chroming didn't hurt the plastic valves in the bottom of the fork tubes?  Or did you figure out a way to remove them?  Gauges look awesome!
Bill

Hey Bill. I did not disassemble the fork (was done is a bike shop) but going by the fork tubes that Randy sells, the plastic valves are removable.  https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m%2Fc%3Aforktube

[aviationfred]

An example of the up and under brake line routing that i used. It has worked well over the last 2 years. I used the OEM length 1992 GSXR750 Galfer brake line.

Fred

[Urban_Legend]

Soooo. Ok I i got the new gauges installed. What have I learned.
Number one. There is a subtle difference between the 1100 cluster and the 1200 cluster.  Their clear lenses are not interchangeable, and the actual casing and facia is a slightly different shape.

Number two. It is easier to install the speedhut gauges in the 1100 cluster housing, I ended up having to change it all from the 1200 to the 1100. (I was hoping to save my original cluster, but not to be because the lens for my 1200 cluster had a serious crack in it and very crazed. The 1100 is not much better,  but it is in one piece)

I wired up the new gauges into the redundant wires from the old gauges. Not hard, you just have to be brave and start cutting. The 1100 cluster also has a rev limiter in it, fitted under the fuel gauge. This can not be kept with the new gauges as there is nowhere to mount it.

Number three. The clear cluster cover nearly fits,  but not guite. Apart from hitting on the bezel of the new gauges it also presses on the settings buttons on the gauges. My fix for this was to drill 2 holes in the appropriate spots for the buttons to fit (I will post a pic of this). You can screw the cover in place (heat didn,t work in remoulding the lens) I put some sealant around the lens  
I have tested the gauges with the bike running (except the speedo, due to time demads),  and it all seems to work as it should.  
I am away from home for the next week. So tune in next Sunday for anothe exciting installment.

Mark

[Urban_Legend]

In this picture you can see how bad my lens is, but you can also just make out the hole hole I drilled for the tacho set button on the bottom right side of the gauge

[Bozo]

Hopefully there is instructions on how to set the tachometer. The signal from the engine to the tachometer acts as if it is a 2 cylinder engine.

On my Drift brand tach, I had to set the number of cylinders, and the number of coils.

Fred

the tachometer is set to 1pps - easy to do, while I had the cover off I set the rev light. You won't regret this setup, mine has done nearly 40K km. The only time the GPS is annoying is riding between tall trees, the speedo goes up and down like it has a bad speedo cable and obviously in a tunnel (I use the tacho for speed checks).

Like you I put the reset switch for the speedo in the same place, I just trimmed the rubber to fit the push button through.

I did have to curve a bit of the white base cover for the speedo to fit, Unlike your gauges with the lower clamps I had to recess mine into the cover. I prefer your setup.