Moditus attack - Fazer 1000 swingarm mod

[MOTOMYSZOR]

Today I fitted clutch lever switch. I had to cut few millimetres of plastic housing, from connection side to fit clutch master cylinder in right position.
Then I connected two wires from original installation to pin 1 and 3.
But I have doubts if this clutch switch is really necessary....

[Mark Olson]

Mine has been disconnected for about 10 yrs.. Don't miss it and no problems from it not being there.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

I can see on forum only few FJ's with six-pot callipers, and all with special adaptors.

If someone is interested, I found  easier bolt-on option on German forum: callipers from YZF 750 R

[Bones]

Today I fitted clutch lever switch. I had to cut few millimetres of plastic housing, from connection side to fit clutch master cylinder in right position.
Then I connected two wires from original installation to pin 1 and 3.
But I have doubts if this clutch switch is really necessary....

Isn't it there so you can start it in gear in case you stall it at the lights, otherwise you've got to fumble for neutral. Not fun if you've got an impatient horn blowing wanker behind you.

[Pat Conlon]

Isn't it there so you can start it in gear in case you stall it at the lights, otherwise you've got to fumble for neutral....

Yes, that's what happens when the switch operates normally.

However, if you want to bypass the clutch switch, by tieing the wires together to close the circuit, you can start your bike anytime with the key on, regardless if you are in neutral or not...
IOW by closing the clutch circuit, the starter will be energized any time you press the starter button** in gear, in neutral, clutch lever in or out.

Beware: this clutch switch is a safety feature, not so much for personal safety, but for mechanical safety.
When (not if) you forget and engage the starter with the bike in gear and clutch lever out, you can damage your starter clutch and starter motor and stretch or break your starter chain. A broken or stretched starter chain is a major repair involving splitting the engine cases.

**assuming your sidestand switch is functioning properly or also bypassed.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

[....]
If using FZ1 wheel, flip the sprocket and use a Honda VF1000R ('86 from memory) c/s sprocket with the inside face milled flat to get correct chain alignment.

Thats about all I can remember.

Harvy

I have few think overs about sprockets:
What gearing will be right? My plan is to put 18/42. It should be similar to what I have now: 17/39.
If it is possible, I want use sprockets without any milling or grinding. For rear I intend to use original Fazer1000. But front.... any other options?
Can I use washers under rear sprocket?
What difference will be in chain length?

grrr..... moditus  

[Arnie]

18/42 sprocket set requires a 112 link 530 chain on a stock FJ swingarm.

[Harvy]

[....]
If using FZ1 wheel, flip the sprocket and use a Honda VF1000R ('86 from memory) c/s sprocket with the inside face milled flat to get correct chain alignment.

Thats about all I can remember.

Harvy

I have few think overs about sprockets:
What gearing will be right? My plan is to put 18/42. It should be similar to what I have now: 17/39.
If it is possible, I want use sprockets without any milling or grinding. For rear I intend to use original Fazer1000. But front.... any other options?
Can I use washers under rear sprocket?
What difference will be in chain length?

grrr..... moditus  

I don't recall how many links I cut off a 120 link chain when using the FZ1 wheel and swingarm...but it will be more than Arnies 112 as the FZ1 arm is longer.

I currently have 18/43 combo, but have also used 18/38.

The other reason for grinding one face off the Honda sprocket is to make it narrower so that there is still room for the nut and lock washer on the c/s. Also, its the outside face that is removed, not the inside as I said above..... brain fart!

Harvy

[MOTOMYSZOR]

All parts for swingarm mod gathered together and big pack should be in my place next week.....  

[MOTOMYSZOR]

START!!!!! 

All parts in my possession. Computer keyboard already in grease 

First question:

Because FJ1200 swingarm linkage is wider, could I do this:

Use FJ linkage and FJ spacer? Will it be strong enough?

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, use the FJ bushing and thru bolt on the FZ swing arm. As you see, the width of the FJ bushing matches the relay arm width.
You just need some spacers (at the swing arm) which fit over the bushing to keep the bushing centered (if not, the bushing will slide back and forth) and thus keeping the dog bones lined up.

[FJmonkey]

First question:

Because FJ1200 swingarm linkage is wider, could I do this:

Use FJ linkage and FJ spacer? Will it be strong enough?

It looks like it will work, the way the shock sits and links are set up, the load of the spring is effectively transferred directly to the bolt. That load is now transferring to the bushing that now has 10MM unsupported. Imagine you have a shock with a 1400 lb. spring. With two dog bones each side takes half the force so 700 lbs. each. I think the bushing will handle it. I would add a plastic spacer on each end to keep the dog bones from moving around. However if the bushing does bend, it will not come out of the bearings. So you can use this to monitor if the bushing is bending. First use a ratchet strap to pull the rear wheel up and compress the shock (if something fails, better to have it let go when you are not riding it), remove the bolt. Slide the busing in both directions till it sits flush with the swing arm boss. If it slides freely then the bushing is still straight. Then take it for short ride and check it again. Then a longer ride, maybe a few good bumps to really work the rear shock. After each check you will gain a level of confidence and check less often. Then check it every tire change. If it does bend, do not ride it till you have a better solution. Hardened bolts do not handle bending loads and when bent enough simply snap. That would a bad day if at speed. If this works I just might do the same thing when I rebuild my '86.

[edit] If this has already been tested and a member can vouch for this mod, then never mind...

Another option is have some aluminum bushings welded on and reamed out to match the press fit in the swing arm. 

[Pat Conlon]

I have aluminum spacers with 2 thin Teflon washers (for friction) inside against the swing arm, and outside against the dog bones, on my T-Ace swing arms.
No wear to report on the Teflon friction washers after 80k miles of use. I consider the washers a wear item which I can easily replace, if needed.
A little dab of moly lube also helps.

[MOTOMYSZOR]

So I will do as Pat did.

Now time for weight in:

                                              Fazer 1000          FJ1200
Swingarm (and all on it)                7,1kg                  8,2kg
Wheel+sprocket+disc+tyre           15,5kg                 17,5
wheel axle+ nut and washers        0,74kg                1,4kg
calliper + calliper bracket             1,35kg                 1,36kg
         
                               TOTAL      24,8kg                 28,46kg

[fj johnnie]

 I had my linkage milled down to mimic the width of the FZ 1 swing arm. The depth of the bearing space was increased to allow stock bearings to be installed. As the swing arm needs to be milled , you will be at a machine shop anyway. The FZ1 bearings are the same size as the FJ so a stock set of FZ1 bearings will then work.
  I just couldn't see leaving it cantilevered out. But then maybe I am anal.