Top end rattle

[racerrad8]

How do know the tensioner was fully extended?

Randy - RPM

[Ront]

How do know the tensioner was fully extended?

Randy - RPM

I could see from the top down the tunnel

[racerrad8]

If you really want to know, remove the center bolt and spring before carefully removing the tensioner. Them you can determine if it is fully extended.

Where is there slack in the chain?

Randy - RPM

[Ront]

If you really want to know, remove the center bolt and spring before carefully removing the tensioner. Them you can determine if it is fully extended.

Where is there slack in the chain?

Randy - RPM

I removed it and it was fully extended-before I removed it I spun the engine in both directions with a wrench and I could hear a rattle at certain spots on both sides of the tunnel

[racerrad8]

I removed it and it was fully extended-before I removed it I spun the engine in both directions with a wrench and I could hear a rattle at certain spots on both sides of the tunnel

Did you remove the center bolt and spring prior to the removal? If not it ratcheted all the way out as you unbolted it.

The chain is not very tight in relation. When one cam comes over to the heel side of the lobe it can slack the chain while the other side holds it tight.

I have never seen a fully extended timing chain tensioner removed from any running FJ, only ones with broken timing chains.

If you want to try the APE tensioner you can find it here;

Manual Timing Chain Tensioner

How is the cam timing?

If the chain was stretched completely out to full extension of the tensioner then both of the cams would be extremely retarded when aligning the TDC timing mark.

Randy - RPM

[Ront]

I removed it and it was fully extended-before I removed it I spun the engine in both directions with a wrench and I could hear a rattle at certain spots on both sides of the tunnel

Did you remove the center bolt and spring prior to the removal? If not it ratcheted all the way out as you unbolted it.

The chain is not very tight in relation. When one cam comes over to the heel side of the lobe it can slack the chain while the other side holds it tight.

I have never seen a fully extended timing chain tensioner removed from any running FJ, only ones with broken timing chains.



I'll taker a close look thanks a lot for the advice-before the rattle started the bike ran very well-thanks

If you want to try the APE tensioner you can find it here;

Manual Timing Chain Tensioner

How is the cam timing?

If the chain was stretched completely out to full extension of the tensioner then both of the cams would be extremely retarded when aligning the TDC timing mark.

Randy - RPM

[Ront]

I removed it and it was fully extended-before I removed it I spun the engine in both directions with a wrench and I could hear a rattle at certain spots on both sides of the tunnel

Did you remove the center bolt and spring prior to the removal? If not it ratcheted all the way out as you unbolted it.

The chain is not very tight in relation. When one cam comes over to the heel side of the lobe it can slack the chain while the other side holds it tight.

I have never seen a fully extended timing chain tensioner removed from any running FJ, only ones with broken timing chains.

If you want to try the APE tensioner you can find it here;

Manual Timing Chain Tensioner

How is the cam timing?

If the chain was stretched completely out to full extension of the tensioner then both of the cams would be extremely retarded when aligning the TDC timing mark.

Randy - RPM

I'll take a close look-before the rattle started the bike ran very well-thanks a lot for the advice

[Ront]

I may have been wrong about tensioner being fully extended-I reinstalled the tensioner, rotated the engine a few times(cams are in time)and removed tensioner spring first-It's only about halfway extended. Is it possible that the automatic tensioner just isn't providing quite enough tension? Thanks again

[FJ_Hooligan]

I did forget to mention the rattle started after I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle but I should be able to do that right?

Okay, why on earth would you EVER need/want to do this?  Yes, you CAN do it, but you must remember you're doing it to a 25+ year old motor.  It's one thing to rev an engine under load to high RPM, but without a load and zinging it to full throttle is something you probably want to avoid doing, and especially on a cold motor.

I've seen/heard squids doing this on their crotch rockets seemingly just to hear the rev limiter kick in (and on a stone cold motor).  The technology and reliability of modern motorcycle engines is truely amazing, but treat them like shit and that's what you'll get eventually.

The FJ motor may be fully capable of withstanding this kind of treatment, but from your sample of one, it doesn't sound like it.

[andyb]

I did forget to mention the rattle started after I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle but I should be able to do that right?

Okay, why on earth would you EVER need/want to do this?  Yes, you CAN do it, but you must remember you're doing it to a 25+ year old motor.  It's one thing to rev an engine under load to high RPM, but without a load and zinging it to full throttle is something you probably want to avoid doing, and especially on a cold motor.

I've seen/heard squids doing this on their crotch rockets seemingly just to hear the rev limiter kick in (and on a stone cold motor).  The technology and reliability of modern motorcycle engines is truely amazing, but treat them like shit and that's what you'll get eventually.

The FJ motor may be fully capable of withstanding this kind of treatment, but from your sample of one, it doesn't sound like it.

He didn't say he was doing it on the side stand?

The fuck's the point of having a big motor if you can't use it?  Yes, a healthy motor should handle semi-frequent redline excursions.

You need to have a load against it, if you're doing it in neutral in the garage, then yes, you're a moron and should have your fingers chopped off.  Ditto on a cold motor... it takes oil quite a long time to get up to operating temp, and you shouldn't abuse the motor until it's warm.

[FJ_Hooligan]

He didn't say he was doing it on the side stand?

No he didn't.

Could be a bad assumption on my part.  I got that impression from the phrasing of I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle that he was just grabbing a big handful of throttle in neutral.

I have no problem with running a motor hard when under a load.

Long time ago, there was a guy at work who ask me to come listen to a noise his bike was making.  We walked on to the parking lot in the afternoon, the bike had been sitting there all day and was stone cold.  He cranks it up and when it catches he twists the throttle into teh rev limiter.  I couldn't hit the kill switch fast enough.  I told him whatever the problem was, I wasn't interested in fixing it.

[FJ_Hooligan]

The fuck's the point of having a big motor if you can't use it?  Yes, a healthy motor should handle semi-frequent redline excursions.

The reason I'm riding around on a 1200cc bike is so I don't have to bounce the thing off of redline to use that big motor.  If I wanted to rattle my teeth fillings out, I'd be doing it on a Ninja 250.

I'm sure you're one of the exceptions, Andy, with your performance background.  But, aside from those that have done serious rebuilds, how many here truly know the history and health of their used motor?

[Ront]

I did forget to mention the rattle started after I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle but I should be able to do that right?

Okay, why on earth would you EVER need/want to do this?  Yes, you CAN do it, but you must remember you're doing it to a 25+ year old motor.  It's one thing to rev an engine under load to high RPM, but without a load and zinging it to full throttle is something you probably want to avoid doing, and especially on a cold motor.

I've seen/heard squids doing this on their crotch rockets seemingly just to hear the rev limiter kick in (and on a stone cold motor).  The technology and reliability of modern motorcycle engines is truely amazing, but treat them like shit and that's what you'll get eventually.

The FJ motor may be fully capable of withstanding this kind of treatment, but from your sample of one, it doesn't sound like it.



I would never do it not under load-where did you get that idea?   I was on the highway

[rktmanfj]

I did forget to mention the rattle started after I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle but I should be able to do that right?

I would never do it not under load-where did you get that idea?   I was on the highway

FWIW, from your first statement, I got the same impression that Hooligan did... that the bike was stationary and not under load.   

[ribbert]

I did forget to mention the rattle started after I revved the bike to 8 grand full throttle but I should be able to do that right?

I would never do it not under load-where did you get that idea?   I was on the highway

FWIW, from your first statement, I got the same impression that Hooligan did... that the bike was stationary and not under load.   

I have seen those morons on youtube revving their bikes stationary to the rev limiter or valve bounce or when it can't suck and blow any more, whatever, and leave it there. Idiots. Do it on a cold motor and they should be shot.

You need to have a load against it, if you're doing it in neutral in the garage, then yes, you're a moron and should have your fingers chopped off. 

I'm afraid I don't agree with you on this Andy, a blip to 8 grand stationary, while serving no purpose, will do no harm. It is under load while it is gaining revs and backing off is no different to backing off on the road, except the revs drop quicker and the end of the main straight is where engines most commonly blow up, when the load is taken off them.

The fuck's the point of having a big motor if you can't use it?  Yes, a healthy motor should handle semi-frequent redline excursions.

I agree with you on this. The fact a motor is 25 years old and unknown history / condition is irrelevant. Unless there is something specifically wrong with it, that is what it is built to do. There is no shortage of accounts of guys riding these with the throttle pinned to the stop for hours on end. Can't do it these days but I, and every one I knew in 80's, did many trips like that. These engines are not old and fragile.

As Hooligan says, the most frequently used byproduct of big capacity, big power is access to lazy low down power an torque, but it's still fun using it's full potential when the moment takes you.

I never bother revving mine out in 1st gear but 2nd and 3rd regularly get a hiding and 4th probably 3 or 4 times every day ride when I think I can get away with it.
Where I live, redline in 1st will see you at the state speed limit, 2nd will see the bike impounded and loss of licence, 3rd will cost you a LOT of money and lose the bike, 4th will get a mention on the 7 o'clock news and 5th runs a serious risk of getting yourself impounded and the Police Commissioner himself will comment on it.

So,you sneak it in when you can, I love ripping through the gears but most of the time you just can't but it has nothing to do with mollycoddling the bike.

While we're on the subject, I appear to be the only one running 18/41. I am very happy with that and have just replaced the same.

Noel