Pre-Season Carb Cleaning

[MidwestFJ1100]

IMO just replace the carb body.  Check with e bay and Randy at RPM for a start.
If fuel is in the air box you probably have gas in your engine oil also. Check it...

George

I checked ebay, nothing really jumping out at me on there. I'll have to email Randy personally, the only thing listed on his site are the full sets. Very tempting!

I'll also be changing my oil, I only rode about 1000 miles last season but I like to change it every season after it's sat all winter.

May I just add something I learnd here. This neat little trick for getting the carb bank back in those tight little holes.

Slick-as-you-please! A half a crank and then another and it pops in like a tire popping on a bead.
I just ran out and set it to take the pic. You mite center it better than that.

This is brilliant! I have a corner full of screw jacks from my Honda's. And a lot of silicone spray from work.

Thanks for all of the tips guys. Also, these may go into part-out mode depending on how much of a tax refund I get.

[movenon]

Occasionally on flea bay you see a junk set of carbs for parts. They are typically missing some parts but might have a good body. The last ones I seen were around 90.00.

The new carb sets that RPM has are a good deal considering what is going to happen in the future but I understand about the money.  A few years ago I totally rebuilt my carbs and had out of memory at or over 200.00 in parts and pieces. When I say totally that's not entirely correct as I didn't replace the diaphragms or slide springs. I still should change out my slide springs.

Good luck on the carb. Let us know how you come out.
George

[MidwestFJ1100]

So after contacting Randy, the price of the full set of carbs has increased since February. I really don't want to JUST repair the post ... I feel like it'll be more of a headache later down the road. If it ain't broke, don't fix it ... hell, I'll just replace it. I've found a couple sets of carbs on Fleabay. One new and one used. Both look great, but I'd like a second (or third fourth fifth) opinion. All opinions and advice are welcome here!

First Set (Used)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-YAMAHA-FJ1100-CARBURETOR-SET-INTAKE-OEM-/261051796427?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc7e64bcb&vxp=mtr

Second Set (New)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Legends-Race-Car-FJ1100-FJ1200-Yamaha-FJ-4AH-14900-10-00-New-OEM-Carburetors-/181334044805?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3859f085&vxp=mtr

Also, the second set is advertised for a variety of Yamaha's ... which makes me wary of pulling the trigger on that set.

On another note, I noticed something about the main jet's ... they're stamped 117.5. I've noticed in all of the parts catalogs that the stock ones were 110 or something? Any insight on that? The bike is 100% stock from what I can tell. Stock pipes, airbox, etc.

Thanks!

[movenon]

For the extra 150.00 I would try to step up to the new carbs.  But be aware that the picture they show is for a 88 - 93 set of carbs with a fuel pump.
For gravity feed you will need your needle and seats and fuel inlets. No biggy. Just be aware of it.  The new carbs will probably dry up at that price in the future.

Did you contact RPM about a used carb to replace the one you have with the broken post ? I am sure there is one out there somewhere.

112.5 jets were used on the earlier FJ's, 110's were used later (emissions related / lean).  I had 110's and changed them to 112.5. Not a big deal. Your main jets are mostly for full throttle running. 

For a stock FJ 1100 I would go with: (even slightly modified).
#112.5 Main Jet   (if they have 117.5 that would probably be OK, especially if you are at a lower elevation). You have to do wide open throttle runs and plug reads to see how they are preforming.
#160 Air Pilot Jet
#37.5 Fuel Pilot Jet or #40
And IMO money well spent add adjustable needles. There is where some real world adjusting can be done for normal riding. 

George

[FJ_Hooligan]

The #160 air pilot jet cancels out the #40 idle jet.
#144 would be a better/richer choice for the air pilot.

Needle adjustment is the most important setting.

[ribbert]

I've found a couple sets of carbs on Fleabay. One new and one used. Both look great, but I'd like a second (or third fourth fifth) opinion. All opinions and advice are welcome here!

About the only thing you can determine from a photo of carbs is the that the post is not broken. Photos tell you next to nothing about carbies except the seller has a parts wash and has taken lots of photos.
I would only ever buy second hand carbs sight unseen with the expectation everything needed doing.
If you only wanted a body with an unbroken post, fine, but expect the worst with the rest of them, especially the diaphragms.
They also seem very expensive, after all, they have just been pulled off a bike and cleaned, not reconditioned.

Noel

[movenon]

You might look at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6
Might be a good body in the mix .
George

[MidwestFJ1100]

You might look at these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-yamaha-fj-1200-carburetor-/261412775670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cdd6a66f6
Might be a good body in the mix .
George

Now this is exactly what I was looking for! There are no differences in the actual bodies of the pumped and gravity fed versions, correct? Only the fuel supply feeds and probably the jets are different (guessing?)

I'd like to know 110% I can use these. If so, I'll be purchasing them today! Thanks a ton movenon!!!

[movenon]

110 % jeez... I would send him an question to make sure the carb bodies (especially the one you need) is in good shape (no broken posts or stripped threads). Also ask about the condition of the diaphragms.

If you convert one body, you will use your jets, slide and diaphragm.  Lots of parts to resell.  Or rebuild all of those and just use gravity feed needle and seats. I think the 1100 slides are different than the 1200. But you have some choices.

George 

[MidwestFJ1100]

My diaphragms are all in good shape, so as long as the slides fit right into the 1200 bodies, I'm good there. Depending on the condition of them when I receive them, I'll probably rebuild and covert those and keep mine for spare parts down the road.

Another little hiccup ... my neat seats are in the carbs pretty tight. I've tried pulling on them with some pliers but they're soft and I don't want to mar them up. I thought about just soaking them in penetrating fluid over night and tugging on them the next day. Would this be the best route?

Also, I checked a guide on main jets vs altitude. My main area of riding in Ohio is averaging ~1000ft ... my 117.5's seem a little big. I'm not versed in this department at all. I never noticed any lacking of power at WOT, although I had a little stumble in the lower mid-range.

Thanks again, guys.

[andyb]

Being a size big on the mains won't hurt much.  It'll make your mileage drop that much farther when you're doing top speed runs, and yield a blacker plug color on a WOT plug chop.  It'll also make it more tolerant of crap gas.

I'll be surprised if you're actually at 1000' though.  Look at the corrected altitude, not the absolute altitude.  At the track, it's not uncommon for the ~700ft elevation to correct to 1500' for the qualifying runs and keep getting worse until it's 3300' for the final round.  The track never moved, the air quality changed.

Hell, run it and see what you think.  It's just brass, it's reasonably easy and inexpensive to swap around.  It may work very well in the spring and fall and be rich in the summer, for example.

For pretty much everyone, getting the pilots on the right size will make a much larger difference than the mains will.

[JMR]

A few members have fixed broken float posts a few different ways. The best way in my opinion is to have it micro welded, however finding someone with the equipment near you might be difficult. Others have posted that they bonded it back on. I am not sure if TIG (GTAW) welding will work on that material but it is more common and easier to find shops that do it. I happen to have a set of old carbs in pieces so replacing that body is also an option. It is a shame that solving your mystery is a discovery in a tricky repair job. But solve it you did.

Micro does work very well. A good friend does it and he is in Georgia.  http://www.jmfmicroweld.com/ContactUs.php    Jim is a great guy to deal with.
https://www.google.com/search?q=jim+french+micro+welding&client=firefox-a&hs=vDR&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcSAWjYknM4P13yiohIaSkZtpFIV7s8XGpalWC-Kto0rn8HLjRgU%253B900%253B672%253Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.sohc4.net%25252Findex.php%25253Ftopic%2525253D118804.0&source=iu&usg=__PFtjVadwD7WCE-BYAbGWHNN5MHE%3D&sa=X&ei=fAMeU_3BBefz0QHn4oGIDg&ved=0CD0Q9QEwBQ&biw=1920&bih=886#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=2bOV6Noq97RgxM%253A%3Bs_CAJ9b160IPYM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi770.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fxx345%252Fjfrenchsp2%252FIMG_07941600x1200.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.sohc4.net%252Findex.php%253Ftopic%253D118804.0%3B900%3B672

[RD56]

My diaphragms are all in good shape, so as long as the slides fit right into the 1200 bodies, I'm good there. Depending on the condition of them when I receive them, I'll probably rebuild and covert those and keep mine for spare parts down the road.

Another little hiccup ... my neat seats are in the carbs pretty tight. I've tried pulling on them with some pliers but they're soft and I don't want to mar them up. I thought about just soaking them in penetrating fluid over night and tugging on them the next day. Would this be the best route?

Also, I checked a guide on main jets vs altitude. My main area of riding in Ohio is averaging ~1000ft ... my 117.5's seem a little big. I'm not versed in this department at all. I never noticed any lacking of power at WOT, although I had a little stumble in the lower mid-range.

Thanks again, guys.

Had a similar problem with mine. My '85 1100 sat for 10 years with gas in the bowls. Got everything out but seats gave me a real headache. It was literally like they were stuck in concrete. One of the guys finally recommended soaking them in simmering hot water, at a slow boil or just below. I did this for about 30 minutes and this finally broke them loose. Still wasn't easy getting them out. Also recommend using the shank end of a drill bit of similar diameter to just fit in the seat to keep pliers from crushing it. I used needle nosed vise grips. Pretty hard not to scar the outside, but you can keep them round this way. So soak the hell out of it for 24 hours with your favorite penetrating magic, and then for best effect use your wife's favorite sauce pan to boil them for at least half an hour. Different thermal qualities of the two different metals was the real magic. Good luck.

Rick

[MidwestFJ1100]

I ordered the set of used carbs that movenon found. Now I just have to figure out HOW I'm going to build them. First instinct is to drop the money for 4 rebuild kits from RPM. I've already spent some money, so what's a little more for knowing that everything in there is good to go? Priceless.

So now it comes to the jetting.

I have 117.5 Main Fuel
155 Air Pilot
No idea what my Fuel Pilots are, but I'm guessing stock ... and #4's head is stripped (Left-hand drill bit??)
Flawless Diaphragms

I'm going to with pods ... F that airbox. And Randy's kits come with an adjustable needle. From what I've read, that's the most important thing to have with the pods. (I think?)

So ... install my 117.5's. The kit comes with 112.5's so if I get a rich plug read, I'll swap out for these. And gas is crap around here so my 117.5's may just stay.
Should I keep the stock 37.5 Fuel Pilots? Or bump to the 40?
And should I swap the Air Pilots or keep them the same?

All of this because I have no idea what I'm doing even though I've tried my best to research.
And the SS bolt kit will be purchased too ...

[FJmonkey]

I can't speak for the other jets but go with #40 for the idle, it is so much better... Once you make the changes expect to use much less choke. I was shocked how little it needed and for much less time. Makes starting easier. Even hot starts are no longer an issue. And the howl from the induction when you roll on the throttle is very nice coming from the pods, the air box was hiding such a nice feature on the FJ.