92 Rebuild and Modernization

[REV1]

Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos?

Thanks,

Jeff

Here's how I do it.

Click on photo so you get the pic on your screen and see the magnifying glass when you hover your mouse over it.

Then right click so you will see a pop-up that says "View all sizes: Medium 500 • Medium 640 • Medium 800 • Large • Large 1600 • Large 2048 • Original"

I usually click the medium 800 for photo's on forums.

When you get the medium 800 on your screen, click right and select "copy image location"

Than put [*img] *click right and select paste* [/img] in your post. (do not use * in the img tags)

Then you'll get this (my FJ1200)

[jscgdunn]

Ok...can someone please help me with the new way to share flickr photos?

Thanks,

Jeff

Here's how I do it.

Click on photo so you get the pic on your screen and see the magnifying glass when you hover your mouse over it.

Then right click so you will see a pop-up that says "View all sizes: Medium 500 • Medium 640 • Medium 800 • Large • Large 1600 • Large 2048 • Original"

I usually click the medium 800 for photo's on forums.

When you get the medium 800 on your screen, click right and select "copy image location"

Than put [*img] *click right and select paste* [/img] in your post. (do not use * in the img tags)

Then you'll get this (my FJ1200)

Thanks a bunch....I will try again...for some reason I am not getting the ...farm...url anymore...I will try.   Gorgeous 86 by the way

[FJmonkey]

Try this. In any post with a photo you can go to its upper right area and click on "reply with quotes". Then look at the code where images are coded in. In many photo sites like Flicker when you are viewing an image you can right click and one of the options is "Copy image location". Copy it, paste it between the [img*]Paste Here[/img*], * added to disrupt site from trying to show an image.

[keand3]

As winter sets in in earnest (-15 with a blizzard warning), it is, just as in Norway (Ken) a "good time for modding".

Yes indeed! Winter is normally the best period for those great upgrades on the bike. The only sad thing this year is that up here there has almost not been any winter at all this year...
A week or so below freezing, the rest has just been rain and 7-10 degrees Celsius... Damn i could still been riding...

Anyway, been away a little while with work, so i have a lot of catching up to do on the forum..
It looks like you have put in a lot of work, love the thread Keep those pictures coming. Have some mods coming up as well, but nothing as extensive as you. (I hope)


Cheers
Ken

[jscgdunn]

Exhaust
Finally got Flickr figured out.  For some reason, the "embed" radio button was clicked instead of the HTML button....now I get the righ link.

The Supertrapp bolted right up..it came off an 86,  Got it off ebay and in really good shape.



Footpegs/Shifter

I bought this rivnut tool and it works great.  If you own a 3XW you may find the nut inside the frame falls off...the repair is with an 8MM rivnut.



The footpegs also can have the same problem with the "warning" bolts...or what ever the technical term is.  Here is the rivnut installed.  Thats the warning bolt off to the left.  I then ground off quite a bit of it with the grinder so the rubber pad would go on. 



Here's the peg installed.  I cut off the footpeg brackets...I might miss the heel rests but I do have another set.  Also installed is Randy's shifter bolt.



Here is the right side.

[jscgdunn]

This is a lousy picture, but here is the old girl hooked up to the IV.  As I mentioned, I simply cleaned the carbs in the ultrasonic and put them back together....no new parts. This motor had not run in about 15 years.  First did a bit of testing by running fuel  pump and filling the bowls....no leaks or dripping from the overflow hoses.  Good battery.  I touched the started and it started within in two seconds...amazing...  Just let it idle till it warmed up.  Did not even have the choke on.

We had a nice day so I got it down off the work table and outside to sync the carbs.  I found that vacuum was very low.  I was able to synch the carbs. It would idle but then after blipping hang at 3000-4000 RPM....I suspect a vacuum leak.  Pilot screw O-rings were note very good and I have ordered Randy's o-ring and screw kit.  Could also be manifold O-rings but I have not yet been able to diagnose

[jscgdunn]

As winter sets in in earnest (-15 with a blizzard warning), it is, just as in Norway (Ken) a "good time for modding".

Yes indeed! Winter is normally the best period for those great upgrades on the bike. The only sad thing this year is that up here there has almost not been any winter at all this year...
A week or so below freezing, the rest has just been rain and 7-10 degrees Celsius... Damn i could still been riding...

Anyway, been away a little while with work, so i have a lot of catching up to do on the forum..
It looks like you have put in a lot of work, love the thread Keep those pictures coming. Have some mods coming up as well, but nothing as extensive as you. (I hope)


Cheers
Ken

Thanks Ken,
I guess NA is getting all the cold weather.  I guess you can start to plant palm trees....

Jeff

[keand3]

Had i known, I would been riding year round this year! 
Well, the meteorologist over here have said winter will come next week.... But I don't believe it, not until I see it for my self... Anyway, ain't winter until it's painfull to smile outside 

[jscgdunn]

The Plastic
This bike had, at some point over the past 20 years, had a crash on it's right side.  From the outside it is not too bad, but the right inner firing panel was badly cracked and the mounting tab broken off.  I got a good replacement off ebay. 

The fairing had been repaired before but was now the repair was broken.  I ended up buying this key after paying too much for repairs on our 86 project.  It was less than $200;  I figure I can pay for it in a few hours of repairs.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Weld-Airless-Plastic-Welding-kit-URE5600HT-5600HT-Urethane-supply-NEW-/190781311753

This is what it looked like.  I did have the missing pieces.


After about an hour this is what it looks like:



Not for viewing by the general public (it is under the scoop) but it is strong and I was able to get the grommet back in and bolt it up.

[keand3]

Nice work 
Plastic welding is an art. Have repaired a few things my self, but it is difficult to get it esthetically nice. But well worth it.

[jscgdunn]

The R1 Swingarm
As I mentioned, the R6 swingarm presented clearance issues due to the topside bracing.

Here is a shot of the rear brake banjo bolt



And here is the contact with the subframe...that's the fender mounting tab.



The is the width of the R1 swingarm at the mounting point



And here is the FJ, about 10 MM including the dust caps.




At the wheel mounting about 210 MM



And the FJ...the same

[wickedRadian]

Absolutly beautiful work Havent been on in a while, but that looks like it is coming along nicely!

[jscgdunn]

Thanks WR!

In the middle of the photo is the R1 swingarm pivot pieces.  The FJ pivot bushing is at the top of the photo.  You can see that the drive side of the R1 swingarm has a larger bearing than the offside.


This next photo shows the R1 bushing compared to the Fj bushing.  The FJ bushing is just a bit too large to fit inside the R1 bushing.  In terms of length, the R1 bushing is about 10MM longer



Here they are lined up again...I asked the machinist to take just a bit off the drive side so there would be enough bearing surface and to take the rest off the offside.  He will then turn down the FJ bushing and press it inside the R1 bushing.  In addition he will mill off 3mm from each side of the swing arm.  The bushing final length is about 2-4 MM longer than the width of the swingarm.  I left R1 and FJ swingarms complete with dust caps so he could measure himself.

[ELIMINATOR]

I am in awe of your skills.

[rktmanfj]

At the wheel mounting about 210 MM



And the FJ...the same

Really?  The same?   

So, presumably, if one already had another rear wheel swap on their FJ, seems it should line up perfectly if one wanted to just add
the R1 arm.

Sorry, don't mean to jack the thread, just (sorta) thinking out loud.