So, my bike has, I think, been getting steadily worse and worse in regards to its electrical system--though I'm not sure if the downward decline is in my imagination as being a gradient or not.
A little over a month ago (?), I began to notice that my headlight and dashlights were... inconsistently bright/dim. Sometimes they'd be bright, then they'd dim, then they'd brighten again. At first I didn't notice rhyme or reason to it, but it did vary during a ride. I don't remember if it ever varied while I was standing still, but I'm inclined to think it happened once near the end, but never at the beginning.
Some time ago ago, my headlight died. I was then dependent on my brights for night-driving. That went out shortly thereafter. So, a few days ago (a week ago?) I replaced the headlight. I don't feel like the headlight and dashlights were brightening/dimming nearly as much, in fact, that seemed to almost have stopped entirely--but I did have the impression that they were just permanently 'dim'.
Then, a few days after installing my new headlight, it died. The next night, the brights died, and at the exact same time, all but one of my dashlights died.
So... wtf?
Oh, one more thing: A few days ago, while parking at a friend's house at night, I noticed that if I locked the handlebars all the way to the right, the dashlights and headlights went out, and turning it a bit left again turned them back on. I have, however, been unable to replicate this scenario, though I tested it a few times there in that moment to make sure it wasn't a fluke of coincidence.
So before I go on a wild goose chase, this sound familiar to anyone? Or am I on my own here? My first guess is the main ground wire is slowly corroding, or maybe corrosion for the dash/headlight fuse (they are through one fuse, right?). Seems like the main ground wire is pretty buried, though, no? What all do I have to take apart to get to that sucker?
Thanks,
K
Quote from: fintip on February 13, 2013, 06:04:04 PM
So, my bike has, I think, been getting steadily worse and worse in regards to its electrical system--though I'm not sure if the downward decline is in my imagination as being a gradient or not.
A little over a month ago (?), I began to notice that my headlight and dashlights were... inconsistently bright/dim. Sometimes they'd be bright, then they'd dim, then they'd brighten again. At first I didn't notice rhyme or reason to it, but it did vary during a ride. I don't remember if it ever varied while I was standing still, but I'm inclined to think it happened once near the end, but never at the beginning.
Some time ago ago, my headlight died. I was then dependent on my brights for night-driving. That went out shortly thereafter. So, a few days ago (a week ago?) I replaced the headlight. I don't feel like the headlight and dashlights were brightening/dimming nearly as much, in fact, that seemed to almost have stopped entirely--but I did have the impression that they were just permanently 'dim'.
Then, a few days after installing my new headlight, it died. The next night, the brights died, and at the exact same time, all but one of my dashlights died.
So... wtf?
Oh, one more thing: A few days ago, while parking at a friend's house at night, I noticed that if I locked the handlebars all the way to the right, the dashlights and headlights went out, and turning it a bit left again turned them back on. I have, however, been unable to replicate this scenario, though I tested it a few times there in that moment to make sure it wasn't a fluke of coincidence.
So before I go on a wild goose chase, this sound familiar to anyone? Or am I on my own here? My first guess is the main ground wire is slowly corroding, or maybe corrosion for the dash/headlight fuse (they are through one fuse, right?). Seems like the main ground wire is pretty buried, though, no? What all do I have to take apart to get to that sucker?
Thanks,
K
Turn your bars to the right and see where the wiring bundle is pulling tight against the frame.
Then turn them back check that spot to see which wire(s) are worn through and shorting against the frame.
Re-route them if needed to provide the necessary slack to prevent it happening again.
The headlight and dash lights are on the same circuit.
It's the one that gets cut out when the starter button is pressed. Make sure the starter button is not sticking.
Then do the headlight relay mod to at least get the headlight current off those OLD, BRITTLE stock 22ga wires!
DavidR.
Quote from: SlowOldGuy on February 13, 2013, 06:26:37 PM
It's the one that gets cut out when the starter button is pressed. Make sure the starter button is not sticking. DavidR.
:hi: If memory serves me well :scratch_one-s_head:, did you not have a problem in this area on your long journey home with your FJ ???
John.
Indeed, but my starter button itself seems pretty stable--the problem (appears) to be elsewhere. The conclusion we all came to was that it must be the relay unit in the fairing. I still haven't gotten around to fixing that, as it is an intermittent problem, and it's not hard to push start the bike.
The spring did seem to be malformed when I took the unit apart in Portland with Mr. Bean, but I painstakingly reshaped it with some pliers, and it has felt fine since.
not a lib: will check that tomorrow when the sun comes out.
David: does the circuit they are both on route by somewhere that would coincide nicely with my handlebar problem?
Quote from: fintip on February 13, 2013, 09:53:56 PM
not a lib: will check that tomorrow when the sun comes out.
If that's indeed the problem, it might be easier to spot in the dark. :unknown:
Is there a list of grounds on this bike? Specifically searching for the headlight's ground at the moment, which is shown between the oil and neutral switch on the bottom right side of the electrical diagram. It also connects to the "ignitor unit" (TCI, yes?), and the start switch, and all the dash lights... This looks promising as a problem source, yeah?
Unrelated, what is the 'reed switch' for, and where is it? Somewhat unrelated, but just saw it and realized I couldn't place it and didn't know what it was for.
Let me clarify: where is the only frame ground on the bike? Also, does this also seem likely as a problem spot to others? I ask because it seems that almost the whole bike grounds out through one spot, if I'm reading the diagram correctly... So I'd be a bit surprised that the lights would be affected, but the bike's running wouldn't--though I'm terribly inexperienced at electrical troubleshooting, so correct me if I'm wrong. I'm out at the bike right now, but I'm so far unable to find some single spot the harness uses for ground...
This seems to be what I'm looking for... But it's on an XJR. Can't find equivalent wire in the same place on mine, but where is it? http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7858.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7858.0)
(Fourth pic down from the top.)
Oh, just noticed that my license plate light is not always on--it only comes on with the brake light. Don't think it's supposed to be like that?
Are you looking for the main ground on the back of the engine case?
Not sure I've ever seen a main "frame" ground.
Your missing taillight is most likely a blown filament. Change the bulb and see if you get the taillight back. These bulbs are prone to vibration fatigue.
Start chasing the ground wire from the headlight. Not sure that circuit goes through the kill switch itself. The kill switch probably sends it's signal to the main RELAY which interrupts the headlight/dash light circuit(s).
Sorry, that probably doesn't help much.
DavidR.
This is driving me crazy. I am stuck at night until I get this fixed. And I'm so poor right now that $20 lost on that new bulb really hurts, and another $10 for the cheapo, which, because of this problem, might just blow again in a few days, doesn't feel good either. :(
I think tomorrow I may just remove the main head fairing for the first time and follow the harness everywhere. Go ahead and finally check that relay unit as well. I'm really at a dead end here.
Note: just found that I'm at 12.3v on the battery when idling, but 11.7v at the headlight... Big drop, no? What does that say to you guys?
Also: to make a bulb blow like that, what is required? Why would a bad ground do that? Shouldn't that just mean it going on and off sporadically?
Thanks again... Trying the headlight off of my project Kawasaki tonight. Will let you guys know if this one blows as well.
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
The low V@the headlight is normal without the relay mod. Lots of voltage drop in the stock wiring, especially considering that it has to get thru a bunch of switches... Ign. Sw., Start Sw., Hi/Low sw., etc. This is why the relay mod is so highly recommended.
The main ground is at the back of the trans, IIRC, under the airbox.
If you blow bulbs extremely often, the 1st suspect is the regulator... especially when blowing as many bulbs, as often, as you are. A bad ground typically won't cause the bulbs to blow.
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
If you're blowing the bulb, you've got a different problem.
Usually bulbs blow from being heat cycled too much (rapidly turned on and off) of if they are subjected to a lot of vibration.
Check the mounting tabs on your headlight shell/reflector and make sure they are not broken
As Rich said, the headlight relay will solve the wiring problem for the headlight at least and let you ride. It's as cheap as 2 $5 relays, a few crimp connectors, a couple feet of 12 or 14 gauge wire, a $3 fuse holder and a few hours of your time.
DavidR.
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
Quote from: andyb on February 15, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
There you go.
For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.
That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them? :unknown:
Well, do ya? (popcorn)
Quote from: not a lib on February 15, 2013, 12:58:30 PM
Quote from: andyb on February 15, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
There you go.
For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.
That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them? :unknown:
Well, do ya? (popcorn)
The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?
Haha. Okay, guys, made some progress.
So the first night of this thread, I walked outside to see if I noticed anything in the dark, maybe some wires rubbing or something. There's some information I should add in at this point:
I have been pulling my battery and using it to work on/troubleshoot the ninja 750 in my backyard. As a result, I was putting the battery back in my bike when I had to leave, usually in a hurry, and so was only hand-tightening the screws. On other bikes I've had, I've never experienced a resulting problem from this, but the FJ vibrates more than other bikes, I guess.
So I went out the other night, and when starting, saw a spark near the battery. I investigated, and it seemed it was just at the ground lead. So I intentionally loosened the screw a bit to see what I could get, moved the lead around the loosened screw... And saw lots of sparks (surprise! heh).
Anyways, decided to make sure to keep those tightened down properly. Spent the next day chasing stuff around. I did pull apart the starter button to investigate there, but there was nothing of interest, only, since the spring is a custom job, I have a feeling I made the action in my starter button a bit worse, if anything. I cleaned everything up real good and such, but everything was fine. No rust, solders all good, a small amount of dirtyness over contacts, but nothing that didn't really wipe away with my finger.
As night is falling, I go and grab the spare headlight off the ninja, and pop it in the FJ. I ride off, still daylight out, going dark. Blinkers aren't working, huh. As it gets dark, I realize every single light on the FJ except for my speedo light and 'hi-beam' is blown. Including fuel and oil lights in the dash.
Culprit? Very likely all those sparks I made last night on the battery, no? Since it all seemed to happen suddenly, while off the bike. On the other hand, I am back to having the dim/bright thing with all lights, irrespective of bumps. So I think that was an unrelated issue. I'll let you know if any more lights blow while keeping the leads tight, but I doubt they will; I still suspect that my brushes are getting low or my regulator is going bad. It's usually dim, and occasionally brightens up, I should add--not the other way around.
Will look into the relay mod anyways.
Thanks for the help, nice that you guys keep trying with a hopeless case like myself :blush:
Kyle
Quote from: fintip on February 15, 2013, 01:50:49 PM
Haha. Okay, guys, made some progress.
So the first night of this thread, I walked outside to see if I noticed anything in the dark, maybe some wires rubbing or something. There's some information I should add in at this point:
I have been pulling my battery and using it to work on/troubleshoot the ninja 750 in my backyard. As a result, I was putting the battery back in my bike when I had to leave, usually in a hurry, and so was only hand-tightening the screws. On other bikes I've had, I've never experienced a resulting problem from this, but the FJ vibrates more than other bikes, I guess.
So I went out the other night, and when starting, saw a spark near the battery. I investigated, and it seemed it was just at the ground lead. So I intentionally loosened the screw a bit to see what I could get, moved the lead around the loosened screw... And saw lots of sparks (surprise! heh).
Anyways, decided to make sure to keep those tightened down properly. Spent the next day chasing stuff around. I did pull apart the starter button to investigate there, but there was nothing of interest, only, since the spring is a custom job, I have a feeling I made the action in my starter button a bit worse, if anything. I cleaned everything up real good and such, but everything was fine. No rust, solders all good, a small amount of dirtyness over contacts, but nothing that didn't really wipe away with my finger.
As night is falling, I go and grab the spare headlight off the ninja, and pop it in the FJ. I ride off, still daylight out, going dark. Blinkers aren't working, huh. As it gets dark, I realize every single light on the FJ except for my speedo light and 'hi-beam' is blown. Including fuel and oil lights in the dash.
Culprit? Very likely all those sparks I made last night on the battery, no? Since it all seemed to happen suddenly, while off the bike. On the other hand, I am back to having the dim/bright thing with all lights, irrespective of bumps. So I think that was an unrelated issue. I'll let you know if any more lights blow while keeping the leads tight, but I doubt they will; I still suspect that my brushes are getting low or my regulator is going bad. It's usually dim, and occasionally brightens up, I should add--not the other way around.
Will look into the relay mod anyways.
Thanks for the help, nice that you guys keep trying with a hopeless case like myself :blush:
Kyle
you tried to run your fj with a loose battery connection ? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
please refer to your quote at the end of your posts.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 15, 2013, 01:49:01 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 15, 2013, 12:58:30 PM
Quote from: andyb on February 15, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
There you go.
For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.
That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them? :unknown:
Well, do ya? (popcorn)
The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?
Or David R gets fed up with it, or others quit trying to help because the Op is trying everything under the sun but what's been suggested to him? :pardon:
The "reed switch" is IN the speedometer. It is used to count the distance you travel as part of the self-cancelling turn signal feature that the early FJs have. It is not related to all the other problems you are asking about.
Arnie
Quote from: fintip on February 14, 2013, 02:35:12 PM
Unrelated, what is the 'reed switch' for, and where is it? Somewhat unrelated, but just saw it and realized I couldn't place it and didn't know what it was for.
Thanks for that, Arnie. I knew it was unrelated, but I look at the diagram, and my curiousity just builds. However, you've piqued it again--they removed the self-canceling feature from the later model FJ's?
Also, the adventure continues.... Last night, I saw/heard sparks inside the fairing 3 times, and every time, the bike's whole electrics died. Once, it actually killed the bike, because it had just started and wasn't moving, just doing a low speed u-turn. The other times, just turning the bars again got electricity going again, and so it just continued running and picked up off its own momentum when the flow of current resumed.
Guess I'll be taking the whole fairing off, and checking things out carefully, moving the handlebars and trying to think it out.
I just can't help but wonder if my perpetual starting issues and my dim/bright light fluctuations are also related to whatever I'm going to find, or if this is really that compound an issue. :unknown:
Thanks again, at this point I'm just updating for posterity's sake.
im sure i said it before, but it could be the wires leading to your starter relay/ flasher unit / whatever else it its for, behind the left side of your fairing 41-71? black relay thingo, , the noise could be it cutting in and out when the power is on and off, also effects the starting, , as effie has the same issue some days when starting, its in the wiring leading to the relay unit, as replacing the unit never solved it, i dont have the lighting issue as you do, ,
Quote from: fintip on February 16, 2013, 12:14:36 PM
I just can't help but wonder if my perpetual starting issues and my dim/bright light fluctuations are also related to whatever I'm going to find, or if this is really that compound an issue. :unknown:
Your short circuit certainly is at least partially causing it.
If you're talking about when coming off idle, it's a regulation issue, which is common.
I'm sure, and yes, you've said it, and I believe that is indeed the issue, just haven't had to take the fairing off...
But I just found this thread: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7684.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7684.0)
I wonder if that's my issue! The horn wires! Because, I've had some horn funniness lately. First off, to replace my headlight the first time, I removed the horn, and then put it back on--evidently not in its original position, which evidently matters. I didn't realize it until later, but I noticed one night that I couldn't lock the handlebars one way, thought it was wires that had been misrouted perhaps. Next day, I found out it was the horn. So when I replaced the headlight a second time, I moved the horn to a different location that I thought was better.
Well, evidently I did something wrong, because as I parked it later that night, the horn fell off the bike. It had ripped the mount off. What's odd is I had noticed that the mount looks like it has two spots for horns to be mounted, and that one of them already looked torn like this one did... ???
Anyways, those wires are dangling at the moment, which would coincide with my horn...
Where would they spark to? Would those cause the entire system to shut down briefly? About to go mess with them and see what I can make happen...
Also: What are the bulbs that go behind the tach/gas gauge in an '86? About to go to Autozone for some purchases, would like to get those at the same time. Can't find it in Clymer's, and searched the forum (which is actually, accidentally, how I ran into the thread listed above) for some ID #, came up dry. Actually, is there some place where all of the lights' bulb types are listed?
pretty sure the globes are the wedge style for the plug in part , , fairing isnt too difficult to remove, or install, , as for bare horn wires, could ark on the forks,or fairing frame, on anything they touch
Fintip said, "However, you've piqued it again--they removed the self-canceling feature from the later model FJ's?"
Yes :-(
Arnie
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 15, 2013, 01:49:01 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 15, 2013, 12:58:30 PM
Quote from: andyb on February 15, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
There you go.
For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.
That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them? :unknown:
Well, do ya? (popcorn)
The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?
I'm in!
Just what is the limit on nested quotes? Will the server blow up :bomb: / boil over when it's reached?
Inquiring mind wants to know. (popcorn)
Steve
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on February 16, 2013, 08:13:18 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 15, 2013, 01:49:01 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 15, 2013, 12:58:30 PM
Quote from: andyb on February 15, 2013, 12:51:52 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:49:28 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 08:37:09 PM
Quote from: not a lib on February 14, 2013, 08:25:18 PM
Quote from: RichBaker on February 14, 2013, 06:11:52 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410 on February 14, 2013, 06:10:00 PM
if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.
JMO,
Kookaloo!
Very good point Frank makes, as well...
Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well. :unknown:
I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.
KOokaloo!
Frank
Yeah, I know.
I just don't get it when people do that. :scratch_one-s_head:
This post needs more quoted stuff.
There you go.
For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.
That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them? :unknown:
Well, do ya? (popcorn)
The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?
I'm in!
Just what is the limit on nested quotes? Will the server blow up :bomb: / boil over when it's reached?
Inquiring mind wants to know. (popcorn)
Steve
If you push the bars right to go right you`ll find the main ground.
I would like to add that I had a similar problem not long ago. I would lose dash lights, turn signals, or both at certain points of my ride, or when turning the handlebars. I was also having random issues where the starter wouldnt turnover. Ended up tracking it down to the fuse box located under the left panel. I took it of the mount and would wiggle it. I could make my dash lights/headlights flash as I moved it around. I also noticed the fuse box got really hot and was starting to melt/deform. I couldnt figure out what exactly was causing the problem and continued riding the bike as long as the fuse box was held in the right place.
Eventually, I couldnt get power to the bike at all. I tracked that down to, power not getting passed-through the ignition switch. Had to jump the switch and run a lead straight from the battery to get home one night. Thats when I bought a new harness. There were too many problems going on with the old one.
I just put the harness on yesterday, have yet to run the bike but I can say that she wants to start. I will be finishing up the few other things I have to do later this week (New carb boots, Sync carbs, Carb tuning, WAX)
A very common FJ problem is the 2 wires running down to the horn.
As the horn rotates on the lower triple clamp, the 2 wires scuff against the steering neck and short out blowing the dash lights.
The thing is, these 2 horn wires are hot (energized) *all the time* the horn button is downstream from the horn and when pressed, grounds the circuit energizing the horn.
Check those 2 horn wires...take apart the tape or sheath and look closely at the insulation.
Hope this helps. Electrical gremlins can be frustrating...yet simple to fix.
"where is the only frame ground on the bike?"
The main ground point on your FJ is one of the ignition coil mount bolts. There should be a ring terminal on a black (I Think) wire that is attached by one of the coil mount bolts. I always ground my headlight, that ground point at the coils, the tail lights and the ignition system to the neg. terminal of the battery via a 12g. wire.
Good Luck,
Jon