Electrical woes...

[fintip]

So, my bike has, I think, been getting steadily worse and worse in regards to its electrical system--though I'm not sure if the downward decline is in my imagination as being a gradient or not.

A little over a month ago (?),  I began to notice that my headlight and dashlights were... inconsistently bright/dim. Sometimes they'd be bright, then they'd dim, then they'd brighten again. At first I didn't notice rhyme or reason to it, but it did vary during a ride. I don't remember if it ever varied while I was standing still, but I'm inclined to think it happened once near the end, but never at the beginning.

Some time ago ago, my headlight died. I was then dependent on my brights for night-driving. That went out shortly thereafter. So, a few days ago (a week ago?) I replaced the headlight. I don't feel like the headlight and dashlights were brightening/dimming nearly as much, in fact, that seemed to almost have stopped entirely--but I did have the impression that they were just permanently 'dim'.

Then, a few days after installing my new headlight, it died. The next night, the brights died, and at the exact same time, all but one of my dashlights died.

So... wtf?

Oh, one more thing: A few days ago, while parking at a friend's house at night, I noticed that if I locked the handlebars all the way to the right, the dashlights and headlights went out, and turning it a bit left again turned them back on. I have, however, been unable to replicate this scenario, though I tested it a few times there in that moment to make sure it wasn't a fluke of coincidence.

So before I go on a wild goose chase, this sound familiar to anyone? Or am I on my own here? My first guess is the main ground wire is slowly corroding, or maybe corrosion for the dash/headlight fuse (they are through one fuse, right?). Seems like the main ground wire is pretty buried, though, no? What all do I have to take apart to get to that sucker?

Thanks,

K

[rktmanfj]

So, my bike has, I think, been getting steadily worse and worse in regards to its electrical system--though I'm not sure if the downward decline is in my imagination as being a gradient or not.

A little over a month ago (?),  I began to notice that my headlight and dashlights were... inconsistently bright/dim. Sometimes they'd be bright, then they'd dim, then they'd brighten again. At first I didn't notice rhyme or reason to it, but it did vary during a ride. I don't remember if it ever varied while I was standing still, but I'm inclined to think it happened once near the end, but never at the beginning.

Some time ago ago, my headlight died. I was then dependent on my brights for night-driving. That went out shortly thereafter. So, a few days ago (a week ago?) I replaced the headlight. I don't feel like the headlight and dashlights were brightening/dimming nearly as much, in fact, that seemed to almost have stopped entirely--but I did have the impression that they were just permanently 'dim'.

Then, a few days after installing my new headlight, it died. The next night, the brights died, and at the exact same time, all but one of my dashlights died.

So... wtf?

Oh, one more thing: A few days ago, while parking at a friend's house at night, I noticed that if I locked the handlebars all the way to the right, the dashlights and headlights went out, and turning it a bit left again turned them back on. I have, however, been unable to replicate this scenario, though I tested it a few times there in that moment to make sure it wasn't a fluke of coincidence.

So before I go on a wild goose chase, this sound familiar to anyone? Or am I on my own here? My first guess is the main ground wire is slowly corroding, or maybe corrosion for the dash/headlight fuse (they are through one fuse, right?). Seems like the main ground wire is pretty buried, though, no? What all do I have to take apart to get to that sucker?

Thanks,

K

Turn your bars to the right and see where the wiring bundle is pulling tight against the frame.

Then turn them back check that spot to see which wire(s) are worn through and shorting against the frame.

Re-route them if needed to provide the necessary slack to prevent it happening again.

[SlowOldGuy]

The headlight and dash lights are on the same circuit.

It's the one that gets cut out when the starter button is pressed.  Make sure the starter button is not sticking.

Then do the headlight relay mod to at least get the headlight current off those OLD, BRITTLE stock 22ga wires!

DavidR.

[Tiger]

It's the one that gets cut out when the starter button is pressed.  Make sure the starter button is not sticking. DavidR.

If memory serves me well  , did you not have a problem in this area on your long journey home with your FJ

John.

[fintip]

Indeed, but my starter button itself seems pretty stable--the problem (appears) to be elsewhere. The conclusion we all came to was that it must be the relay unit in the fairing. I still haven't gotten around to fixing that, as it is an intermittent problem, and it's not hard to push start the bike.

The spring did seem to be malformed when I took the unit apart in Portland with Mr. Bean, but I painstakingly reshaped it with some pliers, and it has felt fine since.

not a lib: will check that tomorrow when the sun comes out.
David: does the circuit they are both on route by somewhere that would coincide nicely with my handlebar problem?

[rktmanfj]

not a lib: will check that tomorrow when the sun comes out.

If that's indeed the problem, it might be easier to spot in the dark.   

[fintip]

Is there a list of grounds on this bike? Specifically searching for the headlight's ground at the moment, which is shown between the oil and neutral switch on the bottom right side of the electrical diagram. It also connects to the "ignitor unit" (TCI, yes?), and the start switch, and all the dash lights... This looks promising as a problem source, yeah?

Unrelated, what is the 'reed switch' for, and where is it? Somewhat unrelated, but just saw it and realized I couldn't place it and didn't know what it was for.

[fintip]

Let me clarify: where is the only frame ground on the bike? Also, does this also seem likely as a problem spot to others? I ask because it seems that almost the whole bike grounds out through one spot, if I'm reading the diagram correctly... So I'd be a bit surprised that the lights would be affected, but the bike's running wouldn't--though I'm terribly inexperienced at electrical troubleshooting, so correct me if I'm wrong. I'm out at the bike right now, but I'm so far unable to find some single spot the harness uses for ground...

[fintip]

This seems to be what I'm looking for... But it's on an XJR. Can't find equivalent wire in the same place on mine, but where is it? http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7858.0

(Fourth pic down from the top.)

[fintip]

Oh, just noticed that my license plate light is not always on--it only comes on with the brake light. Don't think it's supposed to be like that?

[SlowOldGuy]

Are you looking for the main ground on the back of the engine case?

Not sure I've ever seen a main "frame" ground.

Your missing taillight is most likely a blown filament.  Change the bulb and see if you get the taillight back.  These bulbs are prone to vibration fatigue.

Start chasing the ground wire from the headlight.  Not sure that circuit goes through the kill switch itself.  The kill switch probably sends it's signal to the main RELAY which interrupts the headlight/dash light circuit(s).

Sorry, that probably doesn't help much.

DavidR.

[fintip]

This is driving me crazy. I am stuck at night until I get this fixed. And I'm so poor right now that $20 lost on that new bulb really hurts, and another $10 for the cheapo, which, because of this problem, might just blow again in a few days, doesn't feel good either.

I think tomorrow I may just remove the main head fairing for the first time and follow the harness everywhere. Go ahead and finally check that relay unit as well. I'm really at a dead end here.

Note: just found that I'm at 12.3v on the battery when idling, but 11.7v at the headlight... Big drop, no? What does that say to you guys?

Also: to make a bulb blow like that, what is required? Why would a bad ground do that? Shouldn't that just mean it going on and off sporadically?

Thanks again... Trying the headlight off of my project Kawasaki tonight. Will let you guys know if this one blows as well.

[racerman_27410]

if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.


JMO,

Kookaloo!

[RichBaker]

 The low V@the headlight is normal without the relay mod. Lots of voltage drop in the stock wiring, especially considering that it has to get thru a bunch of switches... Ign. Sw., Start Sw., Hi/Low sw., etc. This is why the relay mod is so highly recommended.

The main ground is at the back of the trans, IIRC, under the airbox.

If you blow bulbs extremely often, the 1st suspect is the regulator... especially when blowing as many bulbs, as often, as you are. A bad ground typically won't cause the bulbs to blow.

[RichBaker]

if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.


JMO,

Kookaloo!

Very good point Frank makes, as well...