Electrical woes...

[fj11.5]

pretty sure the globes are the wedge style for the plug in part ,  , fairing isnt too difficult to remove, or install, , as for bare horn wires,  could ark on the forks,or fairing frame, on anything they touch

[Arnie]

Fintip said, "However, you've piqued it again--they removed the self-canceling feature from the later model FJ's?"

Yes :-(

Arnie

[Steve_in_Florida]

if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.


JMO,

Kookaloo!

Very good point Frank makes, as well...

Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well.     

I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.

KOokaloo!

Frank

Yeah, I know.

I just don't get it when people do that.     

This post needs more quoted stuff.

There you go.

For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.

That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them?     

Well, do ya?       

The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?

I'm in!

Just what is the limit on nested quotes? Will the server blow up / boil over when it's reached?

Inquiring mind wants to know. 

Steve

[The General]

if you can turn the bars and make weird things happen then that is a huge problem... it really shouldnt be that hard (or expensive) to track down what is being tensioned/abraided/shorted and what is not..... personally i would be looking really hard at (focusing on) the wring and switches going to and associated with the handlbar kill switch /start button.


JMO,

Kookaloo!

Very good point Frank makes, as well...

Which is pretty much what I said in the first reply, as well.     

I almost didnt post anything at all just because you did already post this advice (and were seemingly ignored)... i was just trying to get the fella back on track since he left the obvious problem/ answer laying and went searching for something else.

KOokaloo!

Frank

Yeah, I know.

I just don't get it when people do that.     

This post needs more quoted stuff.

There you go.

For those who are (obviously) ringing in without reading the entire thread, there are multiple sub-threads going on here.

That said, Andy, got anything useful for any of them?     

Well, do ya?       

The only reason I am posting is that I don't want to feel left out of this epic thread. I wonder how many more sub-posts this will go before a moderator gets fed up with it?

I'm in!

Just what is the limit on nested quotes? Will the server blow up / boil over when it's reached?

Inquiring mind wants to know. 

Steve

If you push the bars right to go right you`ll find the main ground.

[Slick]

I would like to add that I had a similar problem not long ago. I would lose dash lights, turn signals, or both at certain points of my ride, or when turning the handlebars. I was also having random issues where the starter wouldnt turnover. Ended up tracking it down to the fuse box located under the left panel. I took it of the mount and would wiggle it. I could make my dash lights/headlights flash as I moved it around. I also noticed the fuse box got really hot and was starting to melt/deform. I couldnt figure out what exactly was causing the problem and continued riding the bike as long as the fuse box was held in the right place.

Eventually, I couldnt get power to the bike at all. I tracked that down to, power not getting passed-through the ignition switch. Had to jump the switch and run a lead straight from the battery to get home one night. Thats when I bought a new harness. There were too many problems going on with the old one.

I just put the harness on yesterday, have yet to run the bike but I can say that she wants to start. I will be finishing up the few other things I have to do later this week (New carb boots, Sync carbs, Carb tuning, WAX)

[Pat Conlon]

A very common FJ problem is the 2 wires running down to the horn.
As the horn rotates on the lower triple clamp, the 2 wires scuff against the steering neck and short out blowing the dash lights.
The thing is, these 2 horn wires are hot (energized) *all the time* the horn button is downstream from the horn and when pressed, grounds the circuit energizing the horn.

Check those 2 horn wires...take apart the tape or sheath and look closely at the insulation.

Hope this helps. Electrical gremlins can be frustrating...yet simple to fix.

[JCainFJ]

"where is the only frame ground on the bike?"

The main ground point on your FJ is one of the ignition coil mount bolts. There should be a ring terminal on a black (I Think) wire that is attached by one of the coil mount bolts. I always ground my headlight, that ground point at the coils, the tail lights and the ignition system to the neg. terminal of the battery via a 12g. wire.

Good Luck,
Jon