Can anybody recommend where to get a reasonably priced chain? Also, is it necessary to run an endless chain, or would a master link chain be acceptable? Heck, while I'm asking, how 'bout some recommendations for the best O-ring chain lube. Been riding shaft drives too long. Thanks in advance for any help.
Reasonably priced? Don't, stop, don't, don't don't. I understand skimping on tires a bit, but chains the FJ is merciless on. You will be spending $150 now, or breaking things later. The EK ZZZ is perfect for absolute peace of mind. Master links are fine, both clips and rivets will work nicely. The screw type link is a best of both worlds compromise, easily installed but as reliable as a rivet.
As for lube, you'll get tons of different takes on it. My opinion is that it's a sealed chain, and thus internally lubricated. Therefore it needs cleaned, not lubricated, and WD-40 works brilliantly.
Thanks, andyb. Definitely not going to skimp - just wanted to do better than the $231 price tag I found for an OEM chain. I had heard that WD 40 was best for the O-ring chain and now you've seconded that motion, so I'm convinced. Will be looking for a source for the EK ZZZ chain today. And, of course, will be investing in new sprockets, too. Again, thanks a bunch.
Quote from: cyclenutk75 on April 14, 2011, 08:27:21 AM
just wanted to do better than the $231 price tag I found for an OEM chain. I had heard that WD 40 was best for the O-ring chain and now you've seconded that motion, so I'm convinced. Will be looking for a source for the EK ZZZ chain today. And, of course, will be investing in new sprockets, too.
Maybe someone can set up a group buy? Seems to be a lot of people getting ready to do the same thing lately. (including myself, if I could afford it.)
(popcorn)
That would be cool. Found a 112 link EK ZZZ at motochains.com for $173, and I believe ground shipping is free.
Includes a rivet-style master link. Tons of them on ebay - lower price, more links, but with shipping may be as much. I was going to go with OEM sprockets. Is there something better out there I should be considering? Thanks.
Hey Gary, you can't go wrong with steel oem sprockets, unless you want to change your ratio. For durability stay with steel sprockets.
I don't know the Yamaha oem prices and how they compare to after market companies like
1) Sprocket Specialists: http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/sprockets (http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/sprockets) or,
2) PBI Sprockets: http://pbisprockets.com/ (http://pbisprockets.com/)
I would recommend changing your countershaft (c/s) sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 18 tooth sprocket.
Here is a neat chart showing the difference in rpms with a larger c/s sprocket:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0)
BTW Great price on your EK ZZZ chain....congrats! Pat
Thanks for the info, Pat. I actually purchased the sprockets last night. Stayed with 17/40 as originally came on the '89. I actually had considered going up a tooth in front, but the more I rode the bike, the more I liked the way it smoothed out at 60 mph and above. I bought the bike a year ago and at first kept grabbing for 6th gear. After 10k miles on it, I've found that the harder I run it (rpm-wise) the better my gas mileage. But, the gas mileage is not a major consideration, IMO. I will definitely look at all the info you supplied. You may notice I don't have a lot of posts. However, I'm on here reading what you all have to say pretty regularly - I've got a lot more to learn than I have to offer. BTW, I paid $42 for the driven sprocket, $22 for the drive sprocket (both OEM), free shipping on orders over $50 at Westfield Yamaha Suziki. If you want to visit their web site, google Westfield Yamaha - their web address is different, and I'm not at home to retrieve it. They seem pretty good on OEM parts pricing. Bought a head cover gasket from them for $66 - local dealer wanted $99. Also, piad $153 for a 120 link EK ZZZ chain on line from a place called Cli-Max Cycle. Had to pay $11 for the master link, though. Still a good deal. Again, free shipping.
Thanks again, Pat.
Quote from: andyb on April 14, 2011, 06:30:18 AM
Reasonably priced? Don't, stop, don't, don't don't. I understand skimping on tires a bit, but chains the FJ is merciless on. You will be spending $150 now, or breaking things later. The EK ZZZ is perfect for absolute peace of mind. Master links are fine, both clips and rivets will work nicely. The screw type link is a best of both worlds compromise, easily installed but as reliable as a rivet.
As for lube, you'll get tons of different takes on it. My opinion is that it's a sealed chain, and thus internally lubricated. Therefore it needs cleaned, not lubricated, and WD-40 works brilliantly.
Can I get a screw type link that matches the Gold EK ZZZ chain and can I run a 18-38 sprocket set up with a 110 link chain.
No. ZZZ's only have a rivet link.
They're bespoke to the EK chains, and available for the following 530 chains:
SRX
SROZ
ZVX2
MVXZ
110 should be fine for 18/38.
I have a rivet link and have been advised against buying a chain rivet tool because they break and dont last long.Also was told that I could grind the top of the rivet flat then just use a punch on the pin.I dont like spending money on tools that dont last but I might just buy the tool.I would rather have a carbtune than a rivet tool though I could get good use out of that at least.
I bought an EK clip link with the chain (see reply #1 from andyb). I know a lot of hard core flat trackers and they all run with clip links. I've only heard of one failing, and it was because the guy put the clip on the master link with the open end facing the direction of travel - indications were that a stone hit it. All you need is a pair of needle nose pliers to put it on.
What chain did you get Gold or Chrome.
I put the rivet master link on the bench, went to the local bike shop and bought a $3 (Clip) master link.
Problem solved. Plus it is easier to change when it wears out again.
Quote from: Travis398 on April 15, 2011, 07:32:18 PM
I put the rivet master link on the bench, went to the local bike shop and bought a $3 (Clip) master link.
Problem solved. Plus it is easier to change when it wears out again.
Aren't you worried it will come apart? I've heard they do.
Rivet tool has been bought along with a 18T front sprocket and a 38T rear sprocket.Bought some new fork seals too.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 15, 2011, 06:01:28 PM
What chain did you get Gold or Chrome.
I bought the gold. I believe they charge extra for the "chrome", which isn't really chrome - it's just polished.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 15, 2011, 09:06:18 PM
Rivet tool has been bought along with a 18T front sprocket and a 38T rear sprocket.Bought some new fork seals too.
Where did you end up buying the rear sprocket? Details?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 14, 2011, 08:53:01 PM
Hey Gary, you can't go wrong with steel oem sprockets, unless you want to change your ratio. For durability stay
I would recommend changing your countershaft (c/s) sprocket from a 17 tooth to a 18 tooth sprocket.
Here is a neat chart showing the difference in rpms with a larger c/s sprocket:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0)
Pat - I checked out the gearing tables. That's some good info to have. I'll print it and put in my shop manual. I zeroed in on the 4000 rpm lines, as that's where my bike just starts to smooth out. I believe the Ohio Highway Patrol would bring in significantly more revenue if I went with an 18 tooth cs sprocket. But may give it a try in the future. Thanks again for all that info.
Ohh, Travis,
I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt. I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft.
Needless to say, she leaked oil. Had to buy all new parts and JB Weld up the case. And that took a couple of times. Not to mention buying a new chain.
Just my experience,
CraigO
90FJ1200
Seals and 18T sprocket came from jawzys on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330451325375&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330451325375&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)
Quote from: cyclenutk75 on April 15, 2011, 10:11:18 PM
Pat - I checked out the gearing tables. That's some good info to have. I'll print it and put in my shop manual. I zeroed in on the 4000 rpm lines, as that's where my bike just starts to smooth out. I believe the Ohio Highway Patrol would bring in significantly more revenue if I went with an 18 tooth cs sprocket. But may give it a try in the future. Thanks again for all that info.
No problem Gary. Thanks go out to Andy York for putting the original tables together and Chris Vollmer for adding the tables on the 180/55-17 tires.
They sure make it easy for us....
Quote from: craigo on April 15, 2011, 10:30:56 PM
Ohh, Travis,
I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt. I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft.
Needless to say, she leaked oil. Had to buy all new parts and JB Weld up the case. And that took a couple of times. Not to mention buying a new chain.
Just my experience,
CraigO
90FJ1200
Safety tie the master link on with a length of dental floss.
Seriously.
Also known as the "Norwegian Racing Twine" method.
It will last thousands of miles, just keep an eye on it and replace as needed...
Quote from: craigo on April 15, 2011, 10:30:56 PM
Ohh, Travis,
I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt.
CraigO
90FJ1200
Perhaps you mistakenly put the clip on backwards, or didn't seat it all the way in the groove. When I bought the bike it came with a clip on the master link that was so worn you could push it off with your finger. I put a few thousand miles on it that way with no problems, and I drove the hell out of it.
I have a witness, maybe he will chime in and tell how worn it actually was.
As I said I replaced the chain and link last year, a couple thousand miles later still working fine. I'm not telling others to do what I do, some people just have bad luck. Or should I say some people create their own luck.
Or maybe it was just a cheap chain I had. Been a long time and don't remember what I spent on it. I know the master link was assembled correctly. I don't just slap stuff together, especially on the bike because so much is riding on it working correctly.
Since I have stopped using the clip, I have never had a problem with a chain. Your call.
CraigO
90FJ1200
Never have had a problem with a clip link. Broken a chain or six, never at a connecting link, never lost a clip.
Cheap chains and poor installs are hugely bigger problems than a clip link.
There's almost no side load on a clip link, so if the sideplate is pressed on correctly the clip is really under no load at all, just barely enough to keep the sideplate from moving.
when in doubt put it back to stock. stock was endless chain. nuff said.
Quote from: Mark Olson on April 16, 2011, 07:50:53 PM
when in doubt put it back to stock. nuff said.
sounds like you're going to put the stock wheels back on along with those anti-dives and stock seat.
nuff said
Quote from: Travis398 on April 16, 2011, 08:07:00 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on April 16, 2011, 07:50:53 PM
when in doubt put it back to stock. nuff said.
sounds like you're going to put the stock wheels back on along with those anti-dives and stock seat.
nuff said
touche'
yeah i'll get right on that. :wacko2:
In regards to the chain I will always run stock or better. I have wadded a chain on the freeway before and ain't gonna do it again.
" I used a clip on my master link once (and only once) on my 1st FJ and the bike was so grateful, it released the master link clip and sucked my chain up into the countershaft/oil filter assembly cracking the case and bending the oil filter cover bolt. I was lucky not to have bent the clutch rod or the countershaft...."
I once lost the clip off my master link.To add force behind observation of side load, as i had lost the clip, replaced said clip with two circlips of right id. no dramas. im not endorsing it tho, i was very dubious as to its longevity, but it held out for about 10 thou k's or so, thats when i replaced the front and rear sprockets and new chain ( didnt lose the master clip this time!!!).... worth noting tho that they were both still on there although a little " thinner" then when i put them on. one was from memory about half its thickness.... apart from that i have never had an issue with a chain and your experience is something i'd never want to have happen. ouch.
O-ring chains are only sealed at the pin link, leaving the outside of the roller link bushing, the inside of the roller and the outside of the roller open and unlubed, so proper lubrication is very important. Yes the pins are the highest ware point in a chain, but these other points in a chain and the sprockets need lube too. A WD-40 "lubed" chain will have a very short life on an FJ, with uneven ware and stiff links starting in as few as 10,000 miles. A spray lubed chain ( like mine ) can go for 25,000 miles. And a automatic chain oiler ( Scott Oiler, Hawk Oiler, and others ) can make a chain go over 50,000 miles.
I use Alisyn Synthetic Chain Lubricant, its made in Columbus OH. Its the best I've found. I commute on my bikes and the best plan I've found is to have a can of lube at home and one at work. Any time I can hear a dry chain rattle, I lube my chain.
Ride Well,
Jon
Quote from: andyb on April 14, 2011, 06:30:18 AM
As for lube, you'll get tons of different takes on it. My opinion is that it's a sealed chain, and thus internally lubricated. Therefore it needs cleaned, not lubricated, and WD-40 works brilliantly.
Agree with you JCainFJ. Use Shell chain lube myself. Every time it feels soggy in the arse end but doesn't "quite" need a chain tension, everytime it rains, after every wash, after every look at and when I hear a "rattle" or "thunk" under acceleration. This is like the oil thread i imagine and horses for courses, have known guys to just use old engine oil on their drive chain and that's it so as i say each to their own, but the tensions and pressures that it's put under, I wasn't joking when I said I wouldn't want to one to go and try to wrap itself around something or me. two biggest fears are no brakes and chain let go. I think I'm a freak in the sense that I lube my chain from the inside out. Figure centrifical force will help flick it into the chain rather than flick out all over my tyre and the road has worked thus far so ...nyeh ... who knows. :D happy riding.!!
I'd agree with Jon except that when I used various other products for years and always had a difficult time cleaning the chain, and the lube picking up dirt very quickly, my chain life was always poor. Chains today are really pretty good, but the biggest wear-causing things I can think of are rust and grit. WD-40 removes the latter and prevents the former. Have about 6k on my current chain and don't see any noticable wear yet. Probably because cleaning it is so much easier now that I'm more likely to keep it clean and maintained decently, whereas before it was always like pulling teeth. YMMV.
A long term cheap chain solution is buying the best chain that you can find. My DID ZVM X ring chain is more than 50.000 kms old and only I ´ve tensioned 2 times, If my memory is right. 3 tips only: I clean the chain at 1.000 kms interval with gasoil, regrease with a non-teflon chain lube (the teflon actuates glueing the road debris to the chain and forming a paste similar to that to grinding valve paste), and adjusting the chain slack with myself on board, 2 wheels on the floor at around 15 mm
I clean mine with oil diluted with a bit of diesel or kerosene.
Pour some on an old rag,bike on centre stand, rotate wheel manually then oil it the same way, oil soaked rag kind of wrapped around the chain.
This was news to me...
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/)
Other than the smell it seams to work very well. Learn something new all the time..
Eric M
Quote from: Yamifj1200 on April 17, 2011, 03:31:02 PM
This was news to me...
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/)
Other than the smell it seams to work very well. Learn something new all the time..
Eric M
At the very bottom of that article there is a published date of April 1st...
Quote from: Marsh White on April 17, 2011, 03:49:35 PM
Quote from: Yamifj1200 on April 17, 2011, 03:31:02 PM
This was news to me...
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/chain-pickle/)
Other than the smell it seams to work very well. Learn something new all the time..
Eric M
At the very bottom of that article there is a published date of April 1st...
Damn you caught that quick...
Eric M
I, like many here use WD40 to clean my chain. Works great, and I remember someone here actually proved that it does not hurt the o-rings by soaking various chain o-ring in various substances. WD40 did no discernible damage to the o-ring after months of soaking, others chemicals did not so so well.
I looked for the thread, but could not find it, others may be more dilligent.
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on April 17, 2011, 04:41:47 PM
I, like many here use WD40 to clean my chain. Works great, and I remember someone here actually proved that it does not hurt the o-rings by soaking various chain o-ring in various substances. WD40 did no discernible damage to the o-ring after months of soaking, others chemicals did not so so well.
I looked for the thread, but could not find it, others may be more dilligent.
Dan
Mazz did a test on it once...
> Short(er) version. Some time back, the topic of "things you put
> on your chain that might destroy O-rings" came up. Since I had
> been using a penetrating oil (like WD-40) to *clean* my chain,
> and at least one chain-maker (Regina) said WD-40 was a no-no,
> I took three (non-bike, more run-of-mill) rubber O-rings out of
> my stash o' stuff, and soaked one each in:
>
> K-Mart Penetrating Oil: (WD-40 knock-off)
>
> Valvoline SAE 90 Gear oil
>
> Fuel Oil (I wanted to use kerosene, but didn't have any)
>
> Initially, nothing much happened, but after several weeks,
> the O-rings soaking in the penetrating oil and the gear oil
> looked fine, (no swelling, still flexible) while the one in
> the home-heating fuel oil (aka Diesel fuel :-), started to
> swell slightly, and seemed a bit stiffer. Several *months*
> later, the first two O-rings were still doing fine, but the
> one in the fuel oil broke into 3-4 pieces when I gave it
> a "squeeze-between-fingers" flex test. Today, 3-years??
> later, the O-ring in the gear oil, and the one in the penetra-
> ting oil still are in A-1 shape. I also consulted with a
> "colleague" (Dave Lenkowski, owns DAL Fuel Oil Co,
> runs a tricked-out V-Max, delivers fuel oil ), and *he*
> guessed that there was some additive in the fuel oil,
> that attacks rubber....
>
> Now I realize that this is *not* the definitive O-ring
> test, but I'm convinced that a lot of worrying about using
> penetrating oil, or gear oil on one's chain isn't warranted.
> And don't soak your chain in fuel oil (or Diesel fuel)... :-(
>
> ---Mazz
FWIW, I usually use Mobil1 75w90 synthetic gear oil on mine.
I use WD-40 on a shop rag to clean it.
Randy T
Indy
Not sure what I started here, but I'm diggin' it. Here's what I've got so far - I'm going to use a clip-type master link, at my own risk. I'm going to tie a length of dental floss around it (thanks klavdv - never would have thought of that one, even though I've used dental floss for everything but cleaning my teeth. Apparently not enough room there for a zip tie, eh?) Going to clean the chain with WD 40 (you guys know it's just fish oil, right?). Going to try various lubes, starting with Alisyn - 'cause it's made in Cow Town, OH.
Been checking this post at least a couple times a day, and haven't been dissapointed yet. Keep 'em coming and I'll keep reading.
BTW, been using PJ 1 Black Label chain lube since I bought the FJ last spring, and it turns to tar on the chain - no matter how much you wipe the chain after application. I, too, apply lube to the inside of the chain. The chain I just took off is most likely the original. Still pretty fllexible at 26k miles. I put 10k on it in the year I've owned it. Should have seen all the gunk and grit behind the crank case cover! All cleaned up now, anxiously awaiting arrival of new parts.
Clip links are fine, when installed correctly, and checked on periodically... like when you clean, lube, and check tension (~every other tank or so).
WD40 prevents rust, doesn't hurt anything, and gets things clean. A soft toothbrush is also nice.
Lube is always best applied to the inside portion of the chain, so that the centripital force tries to shove it through the chain rather than just flinging it off. Chains should be lubed when warm, left to sit for ~10 min after application, and then ridden again to distribute the stuff.
From reading various people's results, it strikes me that you can lube it with nearly anything, because keeping it clean and tensioned properly is way more important.
It's a misnomer calling WD40 a lubricant. It has a huge variety of uses but NO enduring lubricating qualities. People often confuse "freeing up" with "lubricating"
Noel (mechanic)
Quote from: ribbert on April 17, 2011, 10:46:55 PM
It's a misnomer calling WD40 a lubricant. It has a huge variety of uses but NO enduring lubricating qualities. People often confuse "freeing up" with "lubricating"
Noel (mechanic)
WD-40 is still technically a lubricant, just not a very robust one. The WD stands for Water Displacement. So the original intent was not lubrication. However, its inherent properties are a very light machine lubricant. Once the water is displaced the oil properties will help repel the water. The burning question is....Does a sealed O-ring (X-ring) chain need external lubrication? Can we just clean and go? Or do we need to clean and add some lube to increase life? I think some lubrication is required, the rollers contacting the sprockets are metal to metal contact. If this contact has any movement then there will be wear and loss of power. The loss of power may not be noticeable but the wear hits our budget. Now that I got that off my chest....What is the best oil for my LED blinkers?
For the most part a chain is a chain. Did you know that any "Quality" motorcycle chain with a Tensile Strength of between 8,000lbs to 9,500lbs is more than strong enough to withstand the power output of almost any size bike made today! One of the biggest "Myths" when it comes to Motorcycle Chains is that a O-Ring chain will last longer than a "non-sealed (not O-ring) Chain! A non-sealed chain with the same Tensile Strength or slightly higher.....will last as long or longer in most cases if lubed about every 2 weeks of riding with a Premium Chain Lube!!!(but not X-Ring Type Chains) The "standard type" O-ring design allows dust, grit, & dirt to get between the inner & outer Side Plates. Sooo, in most cases the lubrication in the chain is gone after around 4,000 miles! Sure you can lube the chain as often as a "non-O-ring" chain & it will last longer, but that defeats the purpose & extra money of buying a O-ring Chain! In most cases, the O.E.M suppliers (RK & D.I.D) don't even make a O-ring chain in a "Retail Box" anymore except to supply the Motorcycle Manufacturers to package-up as Genuine Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki parts!!!!!!
This is not just my opinion...bike parts cost way to much to be spending more than you need to.
Better yet just check out this site: http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm (http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm)
[edit] Fixed link.
Mazz did a test on it once...
> Short(er) version. Some time back, the topic of "things you put
> on your chain that might destroy O-rings" came up. Since I had
> been using a penetrating oil (like WD-40) to *clean* my chain,
> and at least one chain-maker (Regina) said WD-40 was a no-no,
> I took three (non-bike, more run-of-mill) rubber O-rings out of
> my stash o' stuff, and soaked one each in:
>
> K-Mart Penetrating Oil: (WD-40 knock-off)
>
> Valvoline SAE 90 Gear oil
>
> Fuel Oil (I wanted to use kerosene, but didn't have any)
>
> Initially, nothing much happened, but after several weeks,
> the O-rings soaking in the penetrating oil and the gear oil
> looked fine, (no swelling, still flexible) while the one in
> the home-heating fuel oil (aka Diesel fuel :-), started to
> swell slightly, and seemed a bit stiffer. Several *months*
> later, the first two O-rings were still doing fine, but the
> one in the fuel oil broke into 3-4 pieces when I gave it
> a "squeeze-between-fingers" flex test. Today, 3-years??
> later, the O-ring in the gear oil, and the one in the penetra-
> ting oil still are in A-1 shape. I also consulted with a
> "colleague" (Dave Lenkowski, owns DAL Fuel Oil Co,
> runs a tricked-out V-Max, delivers fuel oil ), and *he*
> guessed that there was some additive in the fuel oil,
> that attacks rubber....
>
> Now I realize that this is *not* the definitive O-ring
> test, but I'm convinced that a lot of worrying about using
> penetrating oil, or gear oil on one's chain isn't warranted.
> And don't soak your chain in fuel oil (or Diesel fuel)... :-(
[/quote]
I´ve been cleaning my chain with fuel oil since I was unable to find querosene, 1 year ago more or less :dash2:
Spit.
Now there's a handy lubricant,,,
Quote from: Klavdy on April 18, 2011, 05:57:16 AM
Spit.
Now there's a handy lubricant,,,
I don't use it on my chain but I do use it on my driveshaft!
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 17, 2011, 11:14:59 PM
Now that I got that off my chest....What is the best oil for my LED blinkers?
I couldn't resist...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/2/150_18_04_11_6_59_01.jpeg)
Sprayon® 711 Liqui-Solâ,,¢ packaging features reusable spray trigger with adjustable spray dial that enables fan spray to pin stream. Sprayon 711 penetrates, lubricates, demoisturizes, and inhibits corrosion while offering dielectric strength of 47,000 volts. NSF approved and H2 rated, Sprayon 711 meets requirements of MIL-C-23411 and Naval Ordinance Systems Weapons Specs WS-14138. Product suited for use on bearings, machinery, electrical wiring, and connectors.
Wow!! With my blinkers properly lubed with Sprayon and my XXX-ring chain that is self lubricating (It shipped in a plane non-descriptive package to avoid any embarrassing situations), I should be set for the WCR. Maybe I should spit lube my steering head bearings just to be safe...
Since we are all putting in our two cents on chain lubes, I might as well join in. My dad started using Tri-Flow spray lubricant back in the late 70's when we started racing go-karts. We tried all different types of chain lubes and homemade concoctions over the years and kept coming back to the Tri-Flow due to the extended chain life we could justify when we used it.
When I started racing cars I started to use it on all of my spherical rod end bearings based on the fact it contains a Teflon component that has a load capability for proper lubrication that most other spray lubricants are missing; I still use it exclusively today and am completely happy with the lack of wear.
Since I bought my FJ's I have used it without fail. Over the past couple of years a few times a year, when we get home from a ride, the bikes go up on the center stand while the chain are warm and they are lubed. I have to admit the chain on my bike, when I got it, was all bound up and showed rust streaks from most of the links; I am still using that chain today.
I have such a strong belief in the product, I have it as part of my inventory of the website; http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri%2Dflow (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri%2Dflow)
As many of you know, I only recommend products that I use and believe in and this is one of those products.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 19, 2011, 09:14:14 PM
Since we are all putting in our two cents on chain lubes, I might as well join in. My dad started using Tri-Flow spray lubricant back in the late 70's when we started racing go-karts. We tried all different types of chain lubes and homemade concoctions over the years and kept coming back to the Tri-Flow due to the extended chain life we could justify when we used it.
When I started racing cars I started to use it on all of my spherical rod end bearings based on the fact it contains a Teflon component that has a load capability for proper lubrication that most other spray lubricants are missing; I still use it exclusively today and am completely happy with the lack of wear.
Since I bought my FJ's I have used it without fail. Over the past couple of years a few times a year, when we get home from a ride, the bikes go up on the center stand while the chain are warm and they are lubed. I have to admit the chain on my bike, when I got it, was all bound up and showed rust streaks from most of the links; I am still using that chain today.
I have such a strong belief in the product, I have it as part of my inventory of the website; http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri%2Dflow (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri%2Dflow)
As many of you know, I only recommend products that I use and believe in and this is one of those products.
Randy - RPM
I have used Tri-Flow for my guns and have been sold on most PTFE based lubricants. Really good stuff. Probably better than spit....
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 19, 2011, 09:25:40 PM
I have used Tri-Flow for my guns and have been sold on most PTFE based lubricants. Really good stuff. Probably better than spit....
Guns are a totally different story; I have converted over to using Lucas gun oil a couple of years ago. I recently put over 300 rounds through my hand gun and when cleanup started the oil allow me to just wipe away the carbon.
I showed to several of the guys who were with me and use break free and they are now using the Lucas as well.
I know this should probably be in the gun section, but since you brought it up...
Randy - RPM
I do not recommend WD-40 as a chain lube. It is good for chain cleaning, but that's about it. I just replaced the clutch cable on my YZF and found the countershaft cover hiding a fair amount of used Alisyn lube with no real evidence of any grit at all.
At 25,000 miles per chain / sprocket set, I'll stick with lots of real chain lube.
Poor Randy.
All those years I used PJ Blue chain lube. You know the really sticky shit. The stuff that dirt and sand would stick to like a magnet. All those years. Didn't know any better (until recently)
Yea, poor Randy. With a putty knife, screwdriver and hammer, cursing, cleaning 20 years of that shit out of my engine.
I asked him, "Was the build up in my countershaft sprocket area quite impressive?" He was not amused.
He said, "Not as impressive as your bill will be...." oh shit. :cray:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 20, 2011, 12:13:27 AM
Poor Randy.
All those years I used PJ Blue chain lube. You know the really sticky shit. The stuff that dirt and sand would stick to like a magnet. All those years. Didn't know any better (until recently)
Yea, poor Randy. With a putty knife, screwdriver and hammer, cursing, cleaning 20 years of that shit out of my engine.
I asked him, "Was the build up in my countershaft sprocket area quite impressive?" He was not amused.
He said, "Not as impressive as your bill will be...." oh shit. :cray:
Good job you 2 are mates eh Pat! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Harvy
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 20, 2011, 12:13:27 AM
Poor Randy.
All those years I used PJ Blue chain lube. You know the really sticky shit. The stuff that dirt and sand would stick to like a magnet. All those years. Didn't know any better (until recently)
Yea, poor Randy. With a putty knife, screwdriver and hammer, cursing, cleaning 20 years of that shit out of my engine.
I asked him, "Was the build up in my countershaft sprocket area quite impressive?" He was not amused.
He said, "Not as impressive as your bill will be...." oh shit. :cray:
so I better stop using the pj blue then. :shok:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 20, 2011, 12:13:27 AM
Yea, poor Randy. With a putty knife, screwdriver and hammer, cursing, cleaning 20 years of that shit out of my engine.
I would say it had almost the same bonding ability as the Yamabond on both sides of the V/C gasket...
Randy - RPM
I have not put my chain on yet.I did shorten it as it was 120 links long.EK ZZZ chain has tons of grease on it.I plan on cleaning it off the outer plates when I install the chain.I got my rivet tool and am waiting on sprockets.Going 18-38 for now.
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 20, 2011, 12:31:51 PM
I would say it had almost the same bonding ability as the Yamabond on both sides of the V/C gasket...
Randy - RPM
ooops. That won't happen again.... :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 20, 2011, 12:13:27 AM
Poor Randy.
All those years I used PJ Blue chain lube. You know the really sticky shit. The stuff that dirt and sand would stick to like a magnet. All those years. Didn't know any better (until recently)
Yea, poor Randy. With a putty knife, screwdriver and hammer, cursing, cleaning 20 years of that shit out of my engine.
I asked him, "Was the build up in my countershaft sprocket area quite impressive?" He was not amused.
He said, "Not as impressive as your bill will be...." oh shit. :cray:
Randy,
Charge him extra he can afford it.... matter of fact I'll order some parts and just add it to Fr. Pat's bill. :biggrin: :biggrin:
LA Mike
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 20, 2011, 12:45:50 PM
I have not put my chain on yet.I did shorten it as it was 120 links long.EK ZZZ chain has tons of grease on it.I plan on cleaning it off the outer plates when I install the chain.I got my rivet tool and am waiting on sprockets.Going 18-38 for now.
18 tooth sprocket came from CHRIS PRODUCTS pbi sprockets.It came quite fast but the finish in themachined/ toothed area was poor.I have a short section of chain that I tried on the sprocket to see how it fit and it didnt sound to good.Front side of the sprocket had a small burr on the teeth where it wasn't finished properly thats what was grinding a little.I will send it back.You could still see the finish from the roughing end mill so the finished surface was poor.Still waiting onthe 38 tooth sprocket and dust sealls from Jawzys.Hope it is better quallity.This chain has been siting here to long I want to get it on the FJ.
My new 18 tooth sprocket from PBI will be here Monday. Hopefully it will look better than what you're describing. I'll let ya know.
I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.
Quote from: chapindad on April 24, 2011, 08:40:18 AM
I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.
In very general terms: other than the initial chain adjustments after install, I changed mine when I started to have to adjust it two or three times within two weeks. This indicated to me that it was on it's final stretch before breaking. Otherwise you would (in my opinion) change it out when you can visually see damage or when replacing the gear sets. Others may have different reasons, but that is my "very general" opinion.
Quote from: chapindad on April 24, 2011, 08:40:18 AM
I hope this is not a hijack of a thread, but how do you know when the chain should be replaced? I have ridden bikes for a while but I usually just let the maintenance be done by the stealership when I had little time to work on it. But now I have more time to learn.
Chains becomes unserviceable for one of two reasons.
1) They wear so that pitch increases. Sometimes called "stretch" though this is not true. Opinions vary but I'd say that about 1% wear is the limit. Also if you can pull the chain a significant distance off the rear sprocket - it's worn. You won't feel much wrong but the chain will start to destroy the sprockets.
2) A link or links seize due to moisture getting past the O rings causing loss of lubricant and corrosion. The chain will feel rough and it will be difficult to adjust. (ie tight spots)
My experience is that FJ's chains fail by the second mode whereas smaller bikes fail by the first - I've no idea why.
Stuart
So that leads me to the next question, how tight do I make the chain? As noted in another thread I replaced my rear wheel bearings. I have the rear tire tighten to about the 4 1/2 mark on the swing arm. Will the chain loosen over time to the point where I am at the second mark?
One side question, on the swing arm there is a seal guard. Parts of it became brittle and fell off. Is this important to replace?
Quote from: Scooterbob on April 23, 2011, 10:05:06 AM
My new 18 tooth sprocket from PBI will be here Monday. Hopefully it will look better than what you're describing. I'll let ya know.
Mine came today. Inspected and found no flaws or other problems. Install happening this weekend.
Good :yahoo:
I think they made mine in a hurry.I wish i had one my rear sprocket should be hear some day soon.
They told me they didnt have any more or I would have them send me a new one.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 25, 2011, 09:59:33 PM
I think they made mine in a hurry.
Must have been late on a Friday or something. Did they offer any type of a refund or adjustment?
Offered a refund.When they get it I am going to see if I can get them to make me a new one.
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 26, 2011, 09:33:48 AM
Offered a refund.When they get it I am going to see if I can get them to make me a new one.
Sounds like a decent group to continue purchasing from then. An occasional mistake is tolerated, but it still sucks when you are the one affected. Hopefully they can give you a credit and let you get a good one on the next production run.
Verry easy to comunicate with told me to send it back.18T front sprockets are hard to find.
Sorry for splintering this thread by another degree but since we seem to be hitting all things "chain and sprockets related" I have a question regarding chain gauge. I have been looking at using a 520 chain for my 92 FJ because of the suspension/wheel conversion I am doing. I am putting 2007 R1 front and rear ends on the bike and this means a 6" wide rear wheel. The easiest path for me appears to be using a 520 chain and getting a 5mm offset counter shaft sprocket. The offset may be a little less or if it is greater I will have the sprocket carrier milled down to reduce the overall offset required at the counter shaft. I am trying to avoid moving the chain closer to the tire so I do not want to mill the carrier except as a last resort.
I have read through a few threads discussing 520 vs 530 etc but there was no clear consensus other than bigger is better etc...
So.....
1. Opinions on the 520 vs 525 vs 530? Tensile strength is there at 9500-10000 lbs. I want to use the 520 because its skinny and will assist me in fitting the fat 6" R1 rear wheel.
2. What about the 5mm offset sprocket upfront? Anybody fitted one on any FJ model? I know I might have to mod the sprocket cover to allow this.
As always, all advice is much appreciated!
Cheers- tim
Bigger is better for longevity (that's what she said!).
In theory you gain some quickness, as it's less mass to spool up, the narrower chain being lighter. If you're running a very high quality 520 chain, I would have no issue with running a 520 myself in a normal street application. Some of the current literbikes are running a 520, and they produce vastly more power than an FJ. Like any chain, if you neglect it, ignore the tensioning, and leave it filthy, it'll break. Take care of it and I don't foresee any problems.
One thing to know about offsetting the countershaft outward is that you are going to put a significantly greater load on the output shaft itself, the bearing, and the seal (if things flex at all). I think getting what you pay for is the key here. Do it right with good parts and I think you'll do fine, no problem.
They may have more power than the FJ, but they weigh at least 200 plus LBS less than the FJ too.
That being said I think you could get away with quaility 520 chain, if you don't ask alot from her.
Hole shots, riding double, having luggage, may change results.
It's ugly when a chain breaks and normaly very expensive.
Bob W
Quote from: weymouth399 on April 27, 2011, 12:31:48 PM
They may have more power than the FJ, but they weigh at least 200 plus LBS less than the FJ too.
That being said I think you could get away with quaility 520 chain, if you don't ask alot from her.
Hole shots, riding double, having luggage, may change results.
It's ugly when a chain breaks and normaly very expensive.
Bob W
+1