I've never owned a used bike before last weekend. I bought 'em all new, before this one:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59825_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59825_600x400/)
The bike will get a valve adjustment, plugs, carb sync, valve cover gasket and washers, some rewiring of added electrics (horns) hydraulic flush of everything, and a rebuild of the clutch slave. I figure the brakes and tires are good enough for this season. I'm thinking about cleaning and greasing the fork stem bearings since I'm there, and I need to think about a tank cleaning. The tank has some rust, not bad for a thirty year old bike, but, more than I want there. Electrolysis is pretty intense, I might use steel shot and solvent to work the furry rust down, and just keep an eye on it. I have to think about that.
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59826_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59826_600x400/)
I really enjoy working on a bike.
Ted
Ted,
I'd suggest a length of small cheap steel chain as an agitator, instead of steel shot. Lots easier to get it all out, afterward.
A battery charger, metal bar, and some mildly doctored water is not what I call intense. It goes into places that nothing else would. Try it on some test pieces of rusty metal in a plastic bowl, and see if you agree. Just a thought.
:yes:
.
Ted, I did the electrolysis thing last Christmas and it worked really well. There's plenty of YouTube tutorials. I watched a handful and was ready to go. A couple of hours, a few flushes, repeat over a few times and that's it. I replaced the petcock seal and the fuel sender gasket for good measure. Easy.
What did you guys do about the float and sender in the tank?
Ted
Undid the 4 small bolts and removed it. Made a rubber seal out of bike inner tube to seal both that and the petcock hole during electrolyzing. Having this sender hole made for a great drain when flushing out the gunk.
Thanks for the tip. Because I'm a cave man at heart, I was just going to duct tape them shut. Might give your suggestion a run.
Ted
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on April 03, 2020, 10:49:37 PMThanks for the tip. Because I'm a cave man at heart, I was just going to duct tape them shut. Might give your suggestion a run.
Ted
Duct tape sounds like a recipe for failure. I don't think it will hold the weight of water, at least not for more than a few minutes. I would try the tape with plain water, first. A cover plate, bolted in place, should do the job, though.
.
Busy night:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59846_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59846_600x400/)
Built my anode, silver soldered a 10 gauge wire lead into my cold rolled anode, and glued split hose on each end with some RTV to keep it off the metal. Got the petcock and fuel sender out and built a cover plate for the sender hole. I'll replace the petcock with new, but, the sender seems to be unavailable. Would be nice to replace it, but, it does work.
Where do you get a new gasket for the fuel sender?
Thanks.
Ted
Found it! RPM to the rescue.
Ted
Here is my block off plate I built from the bottom of a coffee can. I put a smear of RTV around it to seal it
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59860_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59860_600x400/)
I reinstalled the petcock, and will replace it with new when this is over.
I can report that old fashioned toilet chain, which, I thought would be an ideal inside of tank scraping substrate, gets pretty firmly stuck in the side panels of an FJ tank. I rattled two kinds of chain around, and was rewarded with some rusty dust I blew out of the tank with compressed air. I think disturbing the surface of the rust is supposed to allow the electrolyte a head start on the cleaning. I have used this method with cast iron car and tractor parts on restorations I have undertaken, previously. Never on sheet metal.
I'll give it a few hours to cure, then I will cook it. Hope to be done with this tonight.
Here is a photo of my last restoration project:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59862_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59862_600x400/)
This ain't my first rodeo.
Best,
Ted
Ted, we started a tank cleaning thread over the summer using electrolysis. We were not able to get the tank completed before winter set in and the temps dropped making the paint stripper useless.
There is still a significant amount of sealer that was polled into the sides of the take we are struggling to get out. We do not want to leave that because there is most likely rust under it and it will cause more problems down the road. This project will be back on the stove once the weather gets warmer and the paint stripper will work.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18811.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18811.0)
I'm not using paint stripper! Wash soda. I've heard of using lye, but, no need for that, here.
Just doing the INSIDE of this one.
Ted
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on April 05, 2020, 03:35:36 PM
Just doing the INSIDE of this one.
Ted
We are not stripping the outside of this one either. The stripper was required on this one to get the bad kreem coating out so a solid base can be established before sealing.
Randy - RPM
I have heard that the electrolysis works best over a span of several days, depending on how bad the rust.
To give some idea how much mine needed it; I remember filling up and looking down into the tank and it was like one of those snowstorm globes except with rust flakes. This demonstrated how good the inline filter is, since I still had to ride home and not so much got into the carbs.
I ended up running the electrolyzing over a couple of days for about 6 or 7 hours each time. It was quite amazing how much rust stuck itself to the anode. The only thing I found myself doing that wasn't mentioned in the online video array, was flattening the battery with a bulb as once it was fully charged, the charger shutdown the circuit and the process stopped.
My tank cooking setup:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59863_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59863_600x400/)
It took about five hours. The way to speed the process up is to watch how many amps the charger is putting out, and when it sneaks down to 2-3 amps, stop the process and pull the anode and clean it. I wire wheeled it about every 45 minutes, and when I would restart it, it pulled 6 amps or so, until it simmered down again. The last round saw the charger pull 5 amps for more than an hour, and I considered it done after that.
Snow globe with rust is an accurate description.
Ted
It is hard for a caveman like me to take a clear shot of a clean gas tank. Here is what I got:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59891_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59891_600x400/)
I'm done until some parts come.
Ted
Good as new Ted.
Treat yourself to a new in line filter.
Ride.
Spent an easy $400 with RPM today, including the valve adjustment tool rental. Yes, a filter was part of the price. They are out of the fuel sender gaskets, and, I can't ride until I get one.
Not a huge deal. The state is shut down, can't title it, or, get a license plate, so, no hurry, I guess.
Ted
Seems the fuel sender gasket might be a long way out. If anyone bought a spare they would part with, let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Ted
I think I got one.
Ted
Best electrolysis results I had were with a big charge cart I had a couple of years ago. It would do 40 amps and had a timer.
Newer battery chargers are more of a problem - they are all automatic and want an actual battery.
I had a car starting charger that ran up to some monsterous number of amps, but, I sold it a few years ago. I seem to remember 160 amps, but, I could be mistaken.
I was afraid to walk away from it when I was cleaning cast iron parts. If something went wrong I'm pretty sure it could have been a welder instead of a charger.
My battery charger is old enough to buy beer. 2 amp, non automatic. Certain loads can pull a few more amps out of it, but, not for long-It'll trip a breaker, internally.
Ted
Thus far, this is the only "character builder" I have had to deal with:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/60060_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/60060_600x400/)
One of the screws in the front brake master cylinder was seized, and came out hard. Left handed drill bits saved my bacon, but, it always spooks me drilling a steel bolt stuck in aluminum. New stainless screws were at the hardware store.
The list of maintenance items I've been into at this point is getting impressive. Still waiting on a valve cover gasket and the sender gasket, but, no hurry, the State is closed down, and I can't title or license it anyway. I bled all the hydraulics, flushed and refilled with DOT 5. Clutch slave got rebuilt.
Do you guys put some sealer or RTV on the cam ends of the valve cover gasket?
Thanks In Advance.
Ted
Ted, no sealer on the valve cover gasket. Not required, and it allows bits of the sealant to break free and swim in the oil.
Ted,
just so you know... Yamaha never used Philips head screws. Those are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They look like Philips, but they aren't. Get some JIS screwdrivers, they work MUCH better than Philips. Mcmaster.com sells a set of all 3 sizes for about $35. Of course, those new screws you bought are Philips, so now you need both sets of screwdrivers... :biggrin:
DOT 5 brake fluid: Good stuff. :good2:
Bill
I got one of these after hearing of the difference between Phillips and JIS. I was astounded the clamping of the JIS tool in the JIS screws. I don't recall ever feeling a Phillips with a positive grip. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JISTeeHandle (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JISTeeHandle)
The JIS is not prone to the "Cam Out" effect that Philips drives have.
Quote from: CutterBill on April 22, 2020, 10:55:53 PM
Ted,
just so you know... Yamaha never used Philips head screws. Those are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They look like Philips, but they aren't. Get some JIS screwdrivers, they work MUCH better than Philips. Mcmaster.com sells a set of all 3 sizes for about $35. Of course, those new screws you bought are Philips, so now you need both sets of screwdrivers... :biggrin:
DOT 5 brake fluid: Good stuff. :good2:
Bill
Those reservoir screws had already been replaced at some point in time-they ARE Phillips head screws. I have one JIS bit, it was the correct size for the ignition cover bolts, I bought new ignition cover bolts as someone tore up the originals with the wrong tool. I replaced the reservoir replacement Phillips screws with stainless Phillips head screws for $2.50. All I was really concerned about is the cover fitting well enough to keep fluid from leaking out. So, I'm good.
More tools is always a good thing.
On DOT 5. About 23 years past, this one got the good stuff in it:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/60074_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/60074_600x400/)
Yes, that is a 1967 with disc brakes. It sits half the year waiting for the snow to go away, and about two years ago, I noticed a little weep around the back of the master cylinder. Rebuilt and flushed the system, and the old brake fluid looked identical to the new stuff stuff I was putting in. Good stuff indeed.
I did have a hose weep some DOT 5 on a Honda 900F I owned about a thousand years ago. If I had been smart, I would have replaced the hose, but, I just ran it. No problems.
Ted
Reservoir screws are M3, if I remember right.
You can get them in Allen.
Stainless steel screws is fine ,but not when screwed into aluminium they will seize. so make sure you use copperpaste on them so you dont strip
the treads next time you try to unscrew them
I have had good luck with allen-key screws. They are still more fragile than I'd like, but the allen key works a lot better than a Phillips-head screwdriver works in JIS screws.
RPM stocks both the original equipment JIS screws along with a stainless steel version with an allen head.
OEM Master Cylinder Screw (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=98706-04012-00)
Allen Head Brake Reservoir Cap Screw (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AllenBrakeResevoirCapScrew)
Also in stock regarding the master cylinder lids are the rubber diaphragm seals for both brake and clutch
84-93 Brake Reservoir Diaphragm (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BrakeResDiaphragm)
86-93 Clutch Reservoir Diaphragm (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AClutchResDiaphragm)
I think you are correct, M3. But, the holes are countersunk in the aluminum cover, creating a weak spot. I didn't want to run an Allen and a washer. Figured I was better off with a profile on the screw that matched the cover.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I Never-Seize or synthetic grease everything. I'm the guy who will be working on it next time.
Ted
Ted - the allens Robert linked to are countersunk screws - not the "traditional" allen head bolts like you'd use on the engine covers
Quote from: fj1289 on April 24, 2020, 08:59:46 PM
Ted - the allens Robert linked to are countersunk screws - not the "traditional" allen head bolts like you'd use on the engine covers
Yea, you are right. But, when someone says "Allen screw" I think of something totally different.
True story-Robert sent me an email saying he was out of the sender gasket, and didn't know when he would get more. Ordered one from Partzilla, which, they sent and the mailman promptly lost. After the refund email came, Robert sent me one saying they were back in stock-the day after I ordered something else from him.
Sucks to be me, some days. It isn't like I have a parts ordering skill set, not yet, anyway. I usually figure out I need something, have a swig of beer, and then sit down at the computer and order it. Should really get my shit in one bag someday and make a complete list.
The hardware store guy will vouch for me. I'm a nuisance, but the check always clears.
Ted
It happens to all of us old guys Ted.........I know I'm pretty famous at our local engineering supplies shop, as the guy who comes in and buys stainless Allen bolts of all types (cap head, button head, flanged, countersunk, M3 - M12, 12mm - 100mm) in ones and two's......usually spending 20p (£0.20) each visit, 3 times a week :biggrin: :biggrin:
But, they humour me because they're old guys too and they love my bikes :good2:
Dean,
Thanks for the reassurance. If I was uncomfortable about my age, I'd be worried, but, I've actually always been this way, might have been WORSE when I was younger.
You all have a photo like this, I'm sure. Here's mine:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/60116_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/60116_600x400/)
A red letter day. Valve cover back on. Valves adjusted, gasket and grommets replaced, actually a bunch of rubber parts have been replaced. Some aftermarket wiring bug a boos sorted and fixed, one of those (brake lights) left to sort. Dead relays everywhere, most have been replaced. I'm going to service the speedometer head and the reserve fuel contacts, as noted by others. New stuff like a petcock, rebuilt stuff like the clutch slave. After I flushed the brakes, I get the feeling those blue dot brakes are a big improvement over stock, there is a lot of positive feel in the levers.
Waiting on a Morgan Carbtune tool, and for the State to open, so I can get a plate.
Please don't feel I am being critical of what former owners did or didn't do to the bike. I'm not. I have my own way of doing things, and like everything sorted just so. One thing I changed was the way some wires were routed, put them in a cooler spot, and the wire that went to the battery for the relays just had a crimp connector, with the connector exposed. I shrink tubed that, as it is an exposed direct route to everything the battery has to give to a dead short if something grounded touches it. No sense tickling 30 year old electronic components with a dead accidental short if you can avoid it. It is fused, of course, but still something I try to avoid at all costs.
Hope you guys are getting your prep and maintenance done in the lockdown. Today is also my 15th wedding anniversary, a low key affair, due to the conditions, but, my bride said I should spend some time in the shop.
I married the right girl.
Ted
Today, I finished with some wiring for the taillights, which was a customization by a former owner, eliminating the turn signals stalks, and integrating the running lamps, turn signals and brake light into the brake light lense.
This modification, has not aged well. The harness was patched with electrical wire, after it was butchered. I'm not a fan, but, with some solder, shrink tubing, new bulbs, dielectric grease, and fresher electrical tape, it is functional at this point.
I got it together and took a ride. There is a carb sync, new plugs, a compression test, and some other minor things ( rear view mirrors), but, 98% of the work is done. The bike runs very well from about 2K RPM up, pulls harder then I remember, but, this one is piped and jetted. My 1991 was not. I'm not crazy about the air pods, either, but there isn't room for much else under there. It seems a bit cold blooded, more fiddling with the choke, for a bit longer than I remember happening on the stock 1991. The only thing not working is the clock. It seems to come and go.
It is a good looking and stable bike, excellent brakes and power. Most of the rattles from broken spots on the cowl are gone, and the paint is in exceptional condition. A very, very nice 31 year old bike.
Took Momma for a ride, there is just something about a 115lb. brunette from Colombia on the back of a sport bike, but, she is not much of a rider. My kid got a quick ride, too.
This should be interesting.
Thanks for your help,
Ted
Nifty.
There seems to be enough area people, we should hang out sometime.
I would whole heartedly agree with that. As of yet, there is no plate or title, since the state is shut down until the 18th.
Do you happen to remember 1st Thursday, the monthly meeting of the English motorcycle club? It was at Dalanos Pizza, back in the day. Good times.
Wonder where they meet now?
Ted
Out for a ride:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/60191_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/60191_600x400/)
The license bureau is open for limited business, and I dropped my paperwork off thinking I'd hear from them in a few weeks. They called in an hour, so, I put insurance on the bike, and took a cool spin.
Cool refers to the 54 degree temps. Not me.
If you helped with the project, with suggestions, parts, or advice, Many Thanks.
Ted
That's a unique beautiful FJ! :good:
Awesome! :good:
I actually emailed and then called Gary Solera, of Houston, TX, who is the gentleman responsible for the customization and tasteful modifications to this bike. He is a HELL of a gentleman, and, a brother from a different mother. We talked for most of two hours. Gary owns 12 bikes.
He is responsible for the unique look of this old bike. "Motogriz" , Justin, to me, was responsible for taking good care of Gary's former bike. The modifications date to about 2000-2001, and have held up very well.
I did a quick 50 miles on it today. My skill set needs to be worked up to where I left off, 13 riding seasons past.
I'm saving to do a Keith Code school for my 60th birthday. And, looking forward to some good riding, and great friendships with guys I have met right here.
I can't wait.
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/60193_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/60193_600x400/)
Best regards,
Ted
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 07, 2020, 04:59:24 PM
That's a unique beautiful FJ! :good:
Gotta admit, I had my doubts about that paint scheme at first, but it grows on ya. Looks damned good!!
rossi
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on May 07, 2020, 06:20:37 PM
I actually emailed and then called Gary Solera, of Houston, TX, ...
I remember Gary. He is/was a chiropractor, we called him Doc. He showed up at a rally in Fontana with a friend on a GTS1000. Lost touch with him years ago.
Good to hear he's still with us and doing well.
If you want to chat with him, pm me. I've got his info, and, judging from my experience he'd love to hear from you.
Ted
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on April 04, 2020, 11:03:05 PM
Busy night:
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/59846_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/59846_600x400/)
Built my anode, silver soldered a 10 gauge wire lead into my cold rolled anode, and glued split hose on each end with some RTV to keep it off the metal. Got the petcock and fuel sender out and built a cover plate for the sender hole. I'll replace the petcock with new, but, the sender seems to be unavailable. Would be nice to replace it, but, it does work.
Where do you get a new gasket for the fuel sender?
Thanks.
Ted
If you do not find any gasket for the sender- you might fix one by plastick from one emthy plastic box?
I did so to the petcock, and it worked just like a charm :empathy3: Tap it out by a sharp knife and you have it. :good:
Fj1200 woW
RPM came through with everything I needed. Bike is up and running, and, if it ever gets out of the 40s for temperature, here, I'll ride it some more.
Have about 50 miles on the old girl, now. It has just been too damn cold to ride.
Thanks.
Ted
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on May 11, 2020, 02:43:00 PM
RPM came through with everything I needed. Bike is up and running, and, if it ever gets out of the 40s for temperature, here, I'll ride it some more.
Have about 50 miles on the old girl, now. It has just been too damn cold to ride.
Thanks.
Ted
RPM, sure you got it right on spot. :hi:
Cheriooo!
Bjørgulf
https://bmonline.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=90&t=1866
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on May 11, 2020, 02:43:00 PM
RPM came through with everything I needed. Bike is up and running, and, if it ever gets out of the 40s for temperature, here, I'll ride it some more.
Have about 50 miles on the old girl, now. It has just been too damn cold to ride.
Thanks.
Ted
Get warmer clothes. :D
I've had my cold weather exploits. I can tell you that a 750 GSXR is a lot more interesting to ride at 20 degrees then it is at 85 degrees, but, you won't be able to do it as long, regardless of how you are dressed or how much voltage you run through your clothes. I have just one outfit at the moment, and it is not an exceptionally warm one.
It will climb out of the 40s soon enough. I also had my first incident of law enforcement pulling me over and asking me where my bike plate was, where I was going, and telling me I was in violation of the governors lock down order. The stop was going badly until he asked if I had a carry permit (yes, sir) was I carrying (yes, sir) at which point he smiled, handed back my license, and told me to have a safe ride. The d-bags that people elect to run this state could barely supply plates and registration stickers before the pandemic hit, if the plate gets here before December, I will be surprised.
So, I did have a safe ride when it was all over. A safe, cold, ride.
Ted
I snuck out with the bike after work, objective was a tank of non oxy fuel and a little sprint around town before dinner. I put $9.50 in the tank (fuel light came on when it was on the side stand, warming up) and on the way home had a guy with a mint, and I do mean mint, early 1980s Honda 900F, the bike that introduced me to street bikes, pull up to me at the stoplight. Dude said he had two, the red one I saw and a blue one, my copy was black with orange decals. He thought my bike was an Interceptor, but, I straightened him out, the light turned green, and I then waved goodbye. It was sunny and about 56 degrees.
I took it as a great omen for the coming year.
Got home in time for a great home cooked meal of rice and beans with sliced avocados, and a beer.
Great day.
Ted