Down for maintenance.

[Ted Schefelbein]

My tank cooking setup:




It took about five hours. The way to speed the process up is to watch how many amps the charger is putting out, and when it sneaks down to 2-3 amps, stop the process and pull the anode and clean it. I wire wheeled it about every 45 minutes, and when I would restart it, it pulled 6 amps or so, until it simmered down again. The last round saw the charger pull 5 amps for more than an hour, and I considered it done after that.
Snow globe with rust is an accurate description.

Ted

[Ted Schefelbein]

It is hard for a caveman like me to take a clear shot of a clean gas tank. Here is what I got:




I'm done until some parts come.

Ted

[andyoutandabout]

Good as new Ted.
Treat yourself to a new in line filter.
Ride.

[Ted Schefelbein]

Spent an easy $400 with RPM today, including the valve adjustment tool rental. Yes, a filter was part of the price. They are out of the fuel sender gaskets, and, I can't ride until I get one.
Not a huge deal. The state is shut down, can't title it, or, get a license plate, so, no hurry, I guess.

Ted

[Ted Schefelbein]

Seems the fuel sender gasket might be a long way out. If anyone bought a spare they would part with, let me know.

Thanks in advance,
Ted

[Ted Schefelbein]

I think I got one.


Ted

[JPaganel]

Best electrolysis results I had were with a big charge cart I had a couple of years ago. It would do 40 amps and had a timer.

Newer battery chargers are more of a problem - they are all automatic and want an actual battery.

[Ted Schefelbein]

I had a car starting charger that ran up to some monsterous number of amps, but, I sold it a few years ago. I seem to remember 160 amps, but, I could be mistaken.
I was afraid to walk away from it when I was cleaning cast iron parts. If something went wrong I'm pretty sure it could have been a welder instead of a charger.
My battery charger is old enough to buy beer. 2 amp, non automatic. Certain loads can pull a few more amps out of it, but, not for long-It'll trip a breaker, internally.

Ted

[Ted Schefelbein]

Thus far, this is the only "character builder" I have had to deal with:



One of the screws in the front brake master cylinder was seized, and came out hard. Left handed drill bits saved my bacon, but, it always spooks me drilling a steel bolt stuck in aluminum. New stainless screws were at the hardware store.

The list of maintenance items I've been into at this point is getting impressive. Still waiting on a valve cover gasket and the sender gasket, but, no hurry, the State is closed down, and I can't title or license it anyway. I bled all the hydraulics, flushed and refilled with DOT 5. Clutch slave got rebuilt.

Do you guys put some sealer or RTV on the cam ends of the valve cover gasket?

Thanks In Advance.

Ted

[FJmonkey]

Ted, no sealer on the valve cover gasket. Not required, and it allows bits of the sealant to break free and swim in the oil.

[CutterBill]

Ted,
just so you know... Yamaha never used Philips head screws. Those are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They look like Philips, but they aren't. Get some JIS screwdrivers, they work MUCH better than Philips. Mcmaster.com sells a set of all 3 sizes for about $35. Of course, those new screws you bought are Philips, so now you need both sets of screwdrivers... 

DOT 5 brake fluid: Good stuff.   
Bill

[copper]

I got one of these after hearing of the difference between Phillips and JIS. I was astounded the clamping of the JIS tool in the JIS screws. I don't recall ever feeling a Phillips with a positive grip. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JISTeeHandle

[FJmonkey]

The JIS is not prone to the "Cam Out" effect that Philips drives have.

[Ted Schefelbein]

Ted,
just so you know... Yamaha never used Philips head screws. Those are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. They look like Philips, but they aren't. Get some JIS screwdrivers, they work MUCH better than Philips. Mcmaster.com sells a set of all 3 sizes for about $35. Of course, those new screws you bought are Philips, so now you need both sets of screwdrivers...  

DOT 5 brake fluid: Good stuff.  
Bill

Those reservoir screws had already been replaced at some point in time-they ARE Phillips head screws. I have one JIS bit, it was the correct size for the ignition cover bolts, I bought new ignition cover bolts as someone tore up the originals with the wrong tool. I replaced the reservoir replacement Phillips screws with stainless Phillips head screws for $2.50. All I was really concerned about is the cover fitting well enough to keep fluid from leaking out. So, I'm good.
More tools is always a good thing.

On DOT 5. About 23 years past, this one got the good stuff in it:


Yes, that is a 1967 with disc brakes. It sits half the year waiting for the snow to go away, and about two years ago, I noticed a little weep around the back of the master cylinder. Rebuilt and flushed the system, and the old brake fluid looked identical to the new stuff stuff I was putting in. Good stuff indeed.
I did have a hose weep some DOT 5 on a Honda 900F I owned about a thousand years ago. If I had been smart, I would have replaced the hose, but, I just ran it. No problems.

Ted

[JPaganel]

Reservoir screws are M3, if I remember right.

You can get them in Allen.