I've fitted a secondhand bought RPM oil cooler to my 1TX. (I promise, Randy, that I thought buy a new one, but I get a good offer from a forum member)
With just only one week fresh out from a big refurbished, at everyday transport duty I noticed that the bike temperature is similar that those registered in my 3CV equipped with a 10 row cooler. The built-in thermostat in the RPM cooler do its job keeping the temperature above 90ºC (194 F), I imagine, because the air temperature here is always around 20-30ºC (70-90 F), so in not too much occasions you read less than 90ºC at the oil temperature gauge
The problem has emerged today, first time of hard riding on my 1TX. The gauge has shown between 115-118ºC (240-245 F) all the time while when riding similar on my 3CV and even with a hotter day, the temperature never go up 110ºC (230F)
Must I be worried?
Could it be a problem with the built thermostat?
Both bikes have exactly the same gauge and sensor fitted
Thanks, guys
I missed
1TX: KN air filter in STD airbox, OE carb settings, 5º ignition advancer, XJR cans completely open, NGK DPR 8 EA 9 plugs
3CV: KN air filter in open airbox, Dynojet kit, 4º ignition advancer, free flowing exhaust pan, XJR cans 42 mm. open, NGK DPR 9 EA 9 plugs
And the oil light flashes a lot of times with the RPM cooler installed, even althought the level is correct. Must I add more oil because the bigger capacity rad?
Thanks
Quote from: Alf on October 01, 2017, 10:45:49 AM..., because the air temperature here is always around 20-30ºC (70-90 F),...
Easiest and cheapest way IMHO is to lower air temperature coming to cooling fins.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Manifolds-Fiberglass-Heat-Wrap-Tape-Thermal-Wrap-Black-1-5-X-5M-Ties-/152623297514?hash=item23890eb3ea:g:f24AAOSwARZXmGiN&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Manifolds-Fiberglass-Heat-Wrap-Tape-Thermal-Wrap-Black-1-5-X-5M-Ties-/152623297514?hash=item23890eb3ea:g:f24AAOSwARZXmGiN&vxp=mtr)
As I plan to cower my engine into full fairing, already have this on my to do list :mail1:
Quote from: Alf on October 01, 2017, 10:45:49 AM
The problem has emerged today, first time of hard riding on my 1TX. The gauge has shown between 115-118ºC (240-245 F) all the time while when riding similar on my 3CV and even with a hotter day, the temperature never go up 110ºC (230F)
1TX: KN air filter in STD airbox, OE carb settings, 5º ignition advancer, XJR cans completely open, NGK DPR 8 EA 9 plugs
3CV: KN air filter in open airbox, Dynojet kit, 4º ignition advancer, free flowing exhaust pan, XJR cans 42 mm. open, NGK DPR 9 EA 9 plugs
Hola amigo! One word: Jetting.
The issue is not with the RPM oil cooler, the issue is your jetting.....jetting, jetting, jetting....Want a cooler running bike? Change your jetting.
Good idea, Pat
I´ll try a shim under the needles
Anyway, today I´ve been riding side to side with my friend Mingo inmaculate 1TX. KN, NGK 8 plugs, Dynojet needles, STD mains and Neta cans. Not too different. And all the time there were around 15 ºC difference between them. Too much
Std cooler too
Quote from: Alf on October 01, 2017, 03:03:42 PM
Anyway, today I´ve been riding side to side with my friend Mingo inmaculate 1TX. KN, NGK 8 plugs, Dynojet needles, STD mains and Neta cans.
Interesting Alf, so Mingo's running the skinny DynoJet needles with STD (standard?) main jets? That is significantly different than your stock jetting.
I have found that the skinny DynoJet needles do not play well with the standard Mikuni main jets (too rich)
The DynoJet needles are designed for proper flow when used with the DynoJet main jets.
Re: Oil temps: Even though it may be warmer than you're used to, you are still fine @ 240-245*F
That's what I run here in the desert during the hot summer months.
(1380cc #42 pilots, Mikuni needles fully raised (lowest notch) 130 mains, 160 air bleeds 5* advance Redline ester based synthetic 20w-50)
Remember the oil cooler works only with air flow. It's the stop and go driving that's a bitch. I have found that the RPM oil cooler shaved at least 10*F (more like 15*) off the oil temp vs. using the oem FJ oil cooler. IOW the RPM cooler helps, and never hurts.
Cheers Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 01, 2017, 03:36:12 PM
Quote from: Alf on October 01, 2017, 03:03:42 PM
Anyway, today I've been riding side to side with my friend Mingo inmaculate 1TX. KN, NGK 8 plugs, Dynojet needles, STD mains and Neta cans.
Interesting Alf, so Mingo's running the skinny DynoJet needles with STD (standard?) main jets?
I have found that the skinny DynoJet needles do not play well with the standard Mikuni main jets (too rich)
The DynoJet needles are designed for proper flow when used with the DynoJet main jets.
Yes, that is. And the bike run from 0 to the redline in any gear without hesitation. In fact, tested today, it have better low down between 3.000-6.000 rpm that my 1TX
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 01, 2017, 03:36:12 PM
Remember the oil cooler works only with air flow. It's the stop and go driving that's a bitch. I have found that the RPM oil cooler shaved at least 10*F (more like 15*) off the oil temp vs. using the oem FJ oil cooler. IOW the RPM cooler helps, and never hurts.
Cheers Pat
For that I'm asking why with a 10 row cooler in the same road, tight & slow, at the same sport riding style, my 3CV run cooler that my 1TX with 12 rows. And my friend Mingo´s 1TX run cooler too with an STD cooler
Maybe the thermostat could be wrong?
Many thanks, Pat
Sorry Alf, I was editing when you responded.
Mingo's jetting using the DynoJet needles and STD mains is significantly different than your STD jetting.
Have you tryed running the 1TX with dpr-9 plugs? it should be running cooler .
Quote from: Old Rider on October 02, 2017, 01:16:04 AM
Have you tryed running the 1TX with dpr-9 plugs? it should be running cooler .
Yes, of course I will do. But I wanted to know if there is any report about problems with the cooler
I've got a laser heat gun to check temps and accuracy of both oil thermometers, the digital one taking temps at the sump and the oil fill crankcase
But... where would I get temps?. If I get at the sump, the heat gun will give me the temp at the crankcase, i.e.
I've been thinking about and I believe that the best place is the oil filter with the engine running
What do you think?
Quote from: Alf on November 07, 2017, 02:19:31 AM
I've got a laser heat gun to check temps and accuracy of both oil thermometers, the digital one taking temps at the sump and the oil fill crankcase
But... where would I get temps?. If I get at the sump, the heat gun will give me the temp at the crankcase, i.e.
I've been thinking about and I believe that the best place is the oil filter with the engine running
What do you think?
Alf, why do you not trust the two existing temp gauges and why do you think the third will be any more accurate, and if they differ, which one is wrong?
The easiest way to check the gauges against each other is to remove the sender units and put them in a container of hot water and then read that with the gun, all three in the same temp water at the same time. No need to remove it from the bike, just unscrew it and place it in the container while it is still connected.
Cars and aircraft that have oil temp gauges rarely have numbers anyway, just red and green arcs showing relative, not actual, temps. Why the need for such accuracy?
Noel
Like I explained before my 2 oil thermometers take oil temp from different places: one at the oil fill crankcase and the other with the sender inside a RPM pan plug o´ring
I've already checked temps from both in different environments and only the same temp is shown in concrete situations, mainly on fast open roads and after at least half and hour riding in those roads (not in tight ones, i.e.). So I wanted to know which one shows the correct running temperature in order to recommend one of them.
The question is not which one is correct, that both I imagine are right, but which one is more orientative about the real running temp (In fact I have fitted 4 oil temps, 2 in each bike, to compare between different carb settings and oil coolers.)
I don't need such accuracy, you're right. But it is an info that I want to obtain in order to recommend one temp or another and different aftermarket coolers. And it must be an objective analysis, with the most objective figures that I could get.
People read my website, where all the info that I write has been checked & tested by myself (when not for myself, in rare occasions, It is said), so I pretend to obtain the best test. I think nobody have done it until today, and people have bought different temp gauges and cooler not knowing in fact which is better
And it is fun performing it :biggrin:
And it is good to know that my bikes don't overheat too, important where I live
Thanks, Noel :good2:
Alf,
I use the spin on oil filter or the output oil cooler line to read the temps of the oil collected by the oil pump for distribution for the engine.
Using the pan, clutch cover or stock oil filter housing can give some erroneous readings due to heat saturation in the the aluminum.
It has been discussed several time about the temp sender needing to protrude into the oil flow. if the temp sender is shrouded by the galley adapter that offer erroneous reading from heat saturation in the case/adapter.
The cooler line just before the oil cooler and the spin on oil filter offer the best point of reading the oil temp leaving the engine prior to doing its work and being heated.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy
When I asked about to collect the oil temp and speak about to obtain it of the oil filter, I missed to mention that both bikes are fitted with spin-ons, so I will get the dates from these
I know the discussion about the temp sender. But like the screw where is embedded the sender is not heat insulated from the crankcase, it is logical the supposition that the crank heat go through the sender anyway
Full report is on the way :good2:
As long as the A/B comparison is done on the same FJ.
Different FJ's with different carb jetting = different oil temperatures.
Cheers Alf :good2:
Yes, Pat, you're right. But the accuracy of the gauges and if the operating temps are right with different coolers, I think the test will be informative. The oil must be between 90-115ºC
First impression is that the Randy cooler maintain better and get faster a proper operating temperature. But I have to wait a couple of months if it snows at the mountains (not all winters snow) , because here in the island there is not too much cold along the year
And that my near STD 1TX even with the Randy cooler go hotter than my modified 3CV with the FJowners rad. Still my 1TX is running on STD plugs, and running DPR9 plugs are 5ºC difference... but it is true that few people ride those plugs because in cold climates don't work correctly
I will try to make the report so informative as I can do it
And, first conclusion straight ahead: fit always an oil temperature gauge if you make mods on your bike. It gives you the first sight if the bike run lean, when the temp goes up. It happened to me when I graduated the float bowls at minimun years ago: the bike was much faster, but much more, incredible... and in 40 km uphill on tight roads on sport ride mode, the temp went to the skies like a rocket
Well, I´ve finished the tests in my FJs with different coolers and tuned state, you have the conclusions in my website :mail1:
I have had myself a couple of surprises!. Mainly, that my near STD 1TX was faster that my moded 3CV
The tests were made in various days, repeated going from bike to bike and changing the order of the bikes, in different days and with different climates... well, not too much here in Tenerife, but 15ºC is cold for us!. The tests were very exhaustive, including tarmac & tyres temperature, and taking engine temperature with 2 different gauges fitted in each bike and with a heat laser gun at the base of the oil filter. To not to overload the article with too much details, I only uploaded to my website the conclusions
I hope this helps
G'day Alf
I haven't started the reading yet but you've fallen into the trap we all do this early in the New Year which is 2018 not 2017 unless I'm mistaken and that's when you started
Looking forward to the test results
Cheers Alan
Hi, Alan
Thank you. Corrected... well, after half and hour looking for it :mail1:
And the subtitle and the engine section was in Spanish, haha :wacko1:
Quote from: Alf on October 01, 2017, 10:50:21 AMAnd the oil light flashes a lot of times with the RPM cooler installed, even althought the level is correct. Must I add more oil because the bigger capacity rad? Thanks
Alf,
I do not know about "must," but for me at least, I certainly would add some more oil to the crankcase. Randy may be able to tell you how much extra oil the RPM cooler will take. That amount probably will not be more than a cup-full, but I would want the engine to have the correct oil level when riding on the road. Once you add the extra oil (if any is needed), your oil level "sight-glass" in the crankcase may appear to be over-full with the bike completely upright. Still, you can lean and hold the bike slightly to one side to see the top of the oil in the "sight glass" again. Once you learn how far to lean the bike for an "oil level check," anybody can assist you by reading the oil level glass for you.
The oil warning light is connected to a level sensor (a float, like a carb float). Going uphill and/or strong acceleration moves the oil rearward in the crankcase. The temporary lower oil level at the float location can cause the oil light to come on briefly, but it does not indicate a loss of oil pressure. If the oil warning light stays illuminated for more than a few seconds, THAT would indicate a real problem, and you must turn off the engine immediately. There is no oil pressure sensor in the FJ, but you could add one. Randy can probably tell you where to install an oil pressure sensor, if you want an oil pressure reading.
Thanks, Red
Yes, I've opted for add a bit more oil. Some for the big oil filter with the Spin-on and it is clear that more oil is needed with the big cooler
But anyway the oil light flash even with the oil has been topped and accelerating hard uphill, so the sensor must not be in its best moment. I have another one from a dismantled bike, so I tried
Cheers
Hi Alf
With both the spin oil filter and the larger RPM cooler on my 84 1100 I add nealy .5 litre more oil. Under hard accelleration my oil light still comes on. Randy has told me that due to the placement of the level sensor, this will most likely alway happen. As long as the light goes off with normal riding then all is good. I use it as my Kookaloo light. When it comes on, I know I am having fun.
Mark
If the sight glass level is no use with spin on filter and oil cooler,
how do you know how much oil is required or in there after a bit of riding?
Cheers Alan
Quote from: Sparky84 on January 10, 2018, 10:37:46 PM
If the sight glass level is no use with spin on filter and oil cooler,
how do you know how much oil is required or in there after a bit of riding?
Cheers Alan
The oil filter is not an issue if you use one with the anti-drain back feature. In fact it is better if you do, as it gets oil back to the engine parts during start up faster than having an empty filter. So you are only dealing with the extra capacity of the cooler.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on January 10, 2018, 04:14:19 PM
Hi Alf
With both the spin oil filter and the larger RPM cooler on my 84 1100 I add nealy .5 litre more oil. Under hard accelleration my oil light still comes on. Randy has told me that due to the placement of the level sensor, this will most likely alway happen. As long as the light goes off with normal riding then all is good. I use it as my Kookaloo light. When it comes on, I know I am having fun.
Mark
Yes, mine do too all the time. But not my 3CV, with spin-on and bigger cooler too. So the lever sensor must be wrong
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 10, 2018, 10:53:15 PM
Quote from: Sparky84 on January 10, 2018, 10:37:46 PM
If the sight glass level is no use with spin on filter and oil cooler,
how do you know how much oil is required or in there after a bit of riding?
Cheers Alan
The oil filter is not an issue if you use one with the anti-drain back feature. In fact it is better if you do, as it gets oil back to the engine parts during start up faster than having an empty filter. So you are only dealing with the extra capacity of the cooler.
FJMonkey is right. In both bike with big coolers and spin-ons I add about 4 l. to reach the glass level
I wouldn't get too carried away with trying to calculate the additional oil quantity. The bottom marker on any dip stick or sight glass is the correct amount of oil, between the top and bottom mark is reserve. I don't see any advantage to big filters with modern oil and fuel and the additional oil capacity of the cooler, as Red said, will not be much anyway.
The sight glass on the FJ is at the widest part of the motor and a few degrees either side of centre changes the height indicated dramatically. Leaning your bike over and satisfying yourself that if you lean it far enough the oil level becomes visible in the sight glass does not mean it's not significantly over filled.
Top to bottom on the sight glass on an FJ is quite a bit of oil and going beyond that, where it can't be measured, I would worry about over filling.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 11, 2018, 05:51:14 AMI wouldn't get too carried away with trying to calculate the additional oil quantity. The bottom marker on any dip stick or sight glass is the correct amount of oil, between the top and bottom mark is reserve. I don't see any advantage to big filters with modern oil and fuel and the additional oil capacity of the cooler, as Red said, will not be much anyway.
The sight glass on the FJ is at the widest part of the motor and a few degrees either side of centre changes the height indicated dramatically. Leaning your bike over and satisfying yourself that if you lean it far enough the oil level becomes visible in the sight glass does not mean it's not significantly over filled.
Top to bottom on the sight glass on an FJ is quite a bit of oil and going beyond that, where it can't be measured, I would worry about over filling.
Noel
Noel,
To be clear, I am suggesting that the extra capacity of the oil cooler and/or oil filter (beyond the "stock bike" amounts) should be
learned, and that amount of additional oil should be added. Leaning the bike over then will show you the top of the oil in the sight glass. That correct leaning angle must also be learned, and
not exceeded on future oil level checks, to avoid overfilling. I realize that leaning the bike too far would invite overfilling, so the correct "lean angle" of the bike with the correct amount of oil is very important. Without such knowledge, the oil level of the modified engine would be pure guesswork, on all future checks.
As mentioned earlier, any spin-on oil filter for the FJ should have an anti-drainback flapper valve inside, so the engine does not run without oil for some seconds, whenever it is started. When the oil and oil filter are changed, the visible oil level will be inaccurate until the engine has run enough to fill the empty new filter with new oil.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 10, 2018, 10:53:15 PM
The oil filter is not an issue if you use one with the anti-drain back feature. In fact it is better if you do, as it gets oil back to the engine parts during start up faster than having an empty filter. So you are only dealing with the extra capacity of the cooler.
The oil cooler is not an issue either because it does not drain back while sitting. The oil pump acts as a valve on the one side. This keeps the oil in the lines & cooler in suction. Once the cooler has been filled, there really should not be any reason to stress about "additional oil".
If the oil light is coming on, it is one of two things.
The oil is low
~OR~The
Oil Level Sensor (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4H7-85720-01) is bad (Hell, they are all 30 years old and lived a life in hot oil...)
Randy - RPM
Yep, I can attest to that.....a new sensor from Randy and all is well. :good2:
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 11, 2018, 12:11:26 PM
If the oil light is coming on, it is one of two things.
The oil is low
~OR~
The Oil Level Sensor (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4H7-85720-01) is bad (Hell, they are all 30 years old and lived a life in hot oil...)
Randy - RPM
Yes, I have it clear that the oil level is bad in my 1TX, because with similar capacity cooler and the spin-on my 3CV dont flash the oil light in any circunstance when the oil level is right
For the majority of the 12 years I've owned my 84 it would flash the oil light under really hard acceleration if the oil level was anywhere within the sight window. I found that filling the oil just a few drops above the oil sight window stopped that from happening although I figured out having the light come on in that situation doesn't really matter. Last year I installed a RPM oil cooler and recently a RPM spin-on oil filter system using a Wix filter. Using the same principle - fill the oil to just above the site window - and I mean JUST above the sight window, don't add to much - nothing has changed. The light will not come on - it is no different from the stock system.
4 months have passed and my 1TX continues overheating, around 10ºC to 15ºC more than my friend Mingo 1TX, even with the RPM cooler, and similar to my tuned 3CV
In desperation, last Friday I changed the RPM cooler and fit and STD one thinking that the problem could be at the cooler
Nope. Around 5 to 10ºC hotter with the STD rad
Its a very big problem for me in Tenerife, because even although air temperature is around 25ºC, in fact, in tight and uphill roads (well, near all of them in my island) the oil temperature reach 120ºC forcing me to restrict my right hand. In motorways or open roads the RPM cooler makes a great job and the bike run around 90-100ºC, perfect, always a little more than all the others temperature controlled FJs (Mingo & my 3CV)
Differences between our 1TXs:
- Mingo run USA spec Dynojet needles with OE mains (112,5), KN airbox filter and Neta cans (muted)
- My 1TX run STD carb settings, open cans, KN airbox. And 5º advancer
With the 115 mains the bike run very well at the sea level, and the engine temperature is around 5ºC down, but at high altitude (a ride of less than 30 kms) the bike simply don't pass over 8.000 rom (too rich), so run 112,5 mains is imperative
Mingo bike is faster than mine low down but less happy from 8 to 10.000 rpm. Mine run sweet at this levels
I think that the advancer maybe the cause of the overheating cause increase compression
So, like my 3CV fit a Dynojet kit with an advancer and don't overheat, maybe the solution is fitting a Dynojet kit . But the USA spec Dynojet are different of the EU ones, I don't know why
What do you think?. I'm going to test the bike without the advancer. What could other overheating causes be?
(Valves, compression, carbs... are checked, revised and perfect.)
Thanks, guys
Alf, if ambient temperature, slow speed, low air flow, is causing high engine temps, why not try adding more fuel to the low end?
I assume you are already running #42.5 pilots (you should be)....why not try some #45 pilots and increase your pilot air jets from 155 to 157.5's and raise your needles 1 step or 1/2 step with a shim..
Experiment with your jetting.
Quote from: Alf on August 19, 2018, 11:52:36 AM
- My 1TX run STD carb settings, open cans, KN airbox. And 5º advancer
I live in the toasty desert, what I've found is that there is no way in hell I can run a 5* advance on my bike with STD carb jetting.
The STD USA jetting is lean (EPA regs) the *5 advance plate will make the marbles appear.
Removing the 5* advance will help, but the real answer for cooler running is jetting. (add more fuel)
I do not recommend co-mingling Dyno Jet components with Mikuni jets. Pick one or another and stay with that..
Alf, I remember reading somewhere that valve timing is a cause of overheating with the FJ's. I can't remember now if it said to advance of retard the timing or by how much, but apparently it cures it and gives it livelier performance as well. I'll have a look to see if I can find it and try and post it up.
Thanks Pat. Yes, I run 42,5, European STD. I´ve tried half step the needles up, but there were not much difference, but I will try with the pilot air jets and 45 pilots combined with the half step needles. Thank you very much!. Good idea!
Tomorrow I will remove the advancer to test the temperature anyway
Quote from: Bones on August 19, 2018, 03:53:55 PM
Alf, I remember reading somewhere that valve timing is a cause of overheating with the FJ's. I can't remember now if it said to advance of retard the timing or by how much, but apparently it cures it and gives it livelier performance as well. I'll have a look to see if I can find it and try and post it up.
Hey Tony, I asked that question back in 2009, here's the discussion:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=712.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=712.0)
Thanks Pat, I wasn't a member way back then so first time I've seen that post. :good2: Can't seem to find that article about overheating and the so called fix regarding the cam timing degree numbers either, but from what was posted above your better off just leaving the cams alone. I've never had an overheating issue with mine anyway with normal riding, apart from traffic jams that is, even in Summer over here so don't believe that all FJ's are afflicted with it.
If you're trying to make the mixture RICHER then do NOT install larger air pilot jets. Larger air pilot jets will let more air into the mixture making it LEANER.
Leave the air pilot jet alone and install a larger pilot/idle jet.
Also, how much of your riding is at 3/4 and greater throttle? If most of your ride is less than that, the main jet is not your problem. Idle circuit and needle position are more important.
Sure, try the #45 pilots with your stock 155's.....if too rich, rather than go back to the 42.5's try the 157.5 pilot airs with the 45's. It's easy to change the pilot air jets.
Like I said, experiment.
Thank you, David :good: You are right: the overheat shows riding on slow roads, uphill, from 2-8000 rpm, with low speed on tight roads and then slow air flow
I have a set of 45s around there that I tested in my 3CV years ago, when I was experimenting overheating due to a too low fuel float bowls setting. It is a pain in the arse to be playing with the fuel level, and in my 1TX, those were carefully adjusted whit the revamp, 1 year ago, but maybe the solution could be there
Tony: for normal use, STD FJs, I doubt that even in traffic jams there is too much overheat... well, apart if the jam is at the Mojave dessert where Pat lives :biggrin:
Thanks, guys. I will inform.
Alf,
We are going through this with another thread right now as well. Since you are in Spain, your stock jetting will be different than that offered in the US.
Can you confirm the jetting sizes including the needle and emulsion tube?
We don't want to make assumptions on what stock jetting is and offer bad info.
As David already mentioned, main jet size is not as important in sport riding than getting the idle mixture and mid-range needle adjustments correct. If your FJ came with 160 air bleed jets, then the 42.5 are probably too small and the 45 or maybe larger might be required. The needle profile is also going to be important.
Can you please advise on the jetting sizes for all jets including the numbers on the needles and emulsion tubes. From there I would be comfortable offer jetting suggestions to you.
FYI, the air bleed jets only come in whole & half sizes, 155 & 160...they do not offer the 2 & 7 sizes for that jet.
Randy - RPM
Randy. Thank you very much for your help. And It could be useful for your European clients, I think, so I pass you the settings of all FJ 1200 series
STD European (UK, Spain, Italy... NOT that countries restricted to 100 CV, Germany & France, or even less, Switzerland)
Float heigh 22.3 mm+-1
Main jet: 112.5 (88-on fuel pump types 110)
Main air jet: 45
Needles: different code, but are exactly the same. The only difference is that the US needles have not regulation grooves
Needle jet: Y-2
Pilot air jet 155
Pilot jet 40 (USA 37,5) (fuel pump models 42.5 (just discovering that my 1TX fit 40!)
Valve seat size:
2.3 (post 88 fuel pump 1.5)
Starter jet 30
My 1TX is STD except
KN air filter
5º advancer
XJR derestricted cans
115 mains deffinitively dont work at high alttitude, even low the temp around 5º
Shimmed needles cause virtually no effect with my overheating problems
My 3CV:
4º advancer & KN. Air box lightly opened
Open XJR cans and exhasut pan
Dynojet stage 1. 104 DJ mains.
No DJ springs or air jets fitted
No overheat problems and the bike runs perfectly at the sea level & high alttitude
Quote from: Alf on August 20, 2018, 03:16:22 PM
Randy. Thank you very much for your help. And It could be useful for your European clients, I think, so I pass you the settings of all FJ 1200 series
Needles: different code, but are exactly the same. The only difference is that the US needles have not regulation grooves
Alf, just confirming that is the specifications you actually have in your carbies.
Secondly, what is the number on the needle please.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on August 20, 2018, 03:52:24 PM
Alf, just confirming that is the specifications you actually have in your carbies.
Secondly, what is the number on the needle please.
STD European
Float heigh 22
Main jet: 112.5
Main air jet: 45
Needles: 5FZ74-3
Needle jet: Y-2
Pilot air jet 155
Pilot jet 40
Valve seat size: 2.3
Starter jet 30
PLUS
KN air filter
5º advancer
XJR derestricted cans
115 mains deffinitively dont work at high alttitude, even low the temp around 5º
Shimmed needles cause virtually no effect with my overheating problems
Alf, are you sure your main air jet is a #45 (0.45mm)?
When DavidR measured the (fixed) main air jet on our USA carbs, the main air jet was considerably larger.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on August 16, 2018, 10:06:24 PM
A #48 (0.076 inch dia) is too big and a #49 (0.073 inch dia) is slightly loose, it will wiggle just a tad.
0.073" = 1.85mm
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 20, 2018, 04:29:48 PM
Alf, are you sure your main air jet is a #45 (0.45mm)?
Sure. Well, I will measure when dismounting, but all the FJ series have fitted 45. I´ve been consulting the Yamaha parts codes