RPM oil cooler & riding temperature

[racerrad8]

The oil filter is not an issue if you use one with the anti-drain back feature. In fact it is better if you do, as it gets oil back to the engine parts during start up faster than having an empty filter. So you are only dealing with the extra capacity of the cooler.

The oil cooler is not an issue either because it does not drain back while sitting. The oil pump acts as a valve on the one side. This keeps the oil in the lines & cooler in suction. Once the cooler has been filled, there really should not be any reason to stress about "additional oil".

If the oil light is coming on, it is one of two things.

The oil is low

~OR~

The Oil Level Sensor is bad (Hell, they are all 30 years old and lived a life in hot oil...)

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, I can attest to that.....a new sensor from Randy and all is well.

[Alf]

If the oil light is coming on, it is one of two things.

The oil is low

~OR~

The Oil Level Sensor is bad (Hell, they are all 30 years old and lived a life in hot oil...)

Randy - RPM

Yes, I have it clear that the oil level is bad in my 1TX, because with similar capacity cooler and the spin-on my 3CV dont flash the oil light in any circunstance when the oil level is right

[fjbiker84]

For the majority of the 12 years I've owned my 84 it would flash the oil light under really hard acceleration if the oil level was anywhere within the sight window.  I found that filling the oil just a few drops above the oil sight window stopped that from happening although I figured out having the light come on in that situation doesn't really matter.  Last year I installed a RPM oil cooler and recently a RPM spin-on oil filter system using a Wix filter.  Using the same principle - fill the oil to just above the site window - and I mean JUST above the sight window, don't add to much - nothing has changed.  The light will not come on - it is no different from the stock system.     

[Alf]

4 months have passed and my 1TX continues overheating, around 10ºC to 15ºC more than my friend Mingo 1TX, even with the RPM cooler, and similar to my tuned 3CV

In desperation, last Friday I changed the RPM cooler and fit and STD one thinking that the problem could be at the cooler

Nope. Around 5 to 10ºC hotter with the STD rad

Its a very big problem for me in Tenerife, because even although air temperature is around 25ºC, in fact, in tight and uphill roads (well, near all of them in my island) the oil temperature reach 120ºC forcing me to restrict my right hand. In motorways or open roads the RPM cooler makes a great job and the bike run around 90-100ºC, perfect, always a little more than all the others temperature controlled FJs (Mingo & my 3CV)

Differences between our 1TXs:
- Mingo run USA spec Dynojet needles with OE mains (112,5), KN airbox filter and Neta cans (muted)
- My 1TX run STD carb settings, open cans, KN airbox. And 5º advancer

With the 115 mains the bike run very well at the sea level, and the engine temperature is around 5ºC down, but at high altitude (a ride of less than 30 kms) the bike simply don't pass over 8.000 rom (too rich), so run 112,5 mains is imperative

Mingo bike is faster than mine low down but less happy from 8 to 10.000 rpm. Mine run sweet at this levels

I think that the advancer maybe the cause of the overheating cause increase compression

So, like my 3CV fit a Dynojet kit with an advancer and don't overheat, maybe the solution is fitting a Dynojet kit . But the USA spec Dynojet are different of the EU ones, I don't know why

What do you think?. I'm going to test the bike without the advancer. What could other overheating causes be?

(Valves, compression, carbs... are checked, revised and perfect.)

Thanks, guys

[Pat Conlon]

Alf, if ambient temperature, slow speed, low air flow, is causing high engine temps, why not try adding more fuel to the low end?

I assume you are already running #42.5 pilots (you should be)....why not try some #45 pilots and increase your pilot air jets from 155 to 157.5's and raise your needles 1 step or 1/2 step with a shim..
Experiment with your jetting.

- My 1TX run STD carb settings, open cans, KN airbox. And 5º advancer

I live in the toasty desert, what I've found is that there is no way in hell I can run a 5* advance on my bike with STD carb jetting.
The STD USA jetting is lean (EPA regs) the *5 advance plate will make the marbles appear.

Removing the 5* advance will help, but the real answer for cooler running is jetting. (add more fuel)
I do not recommend co-mingling Dyno Jet components with Mikuni jets.  Pick one or another and stay with that..

[Bones]

Alf, I remember reading somewhere that valve timing is a cause of overheating with the FJ's. I can't remember now if it said to advance of retard the timing or by how much, but apparently it cures it and gives it livelier  performance as well. I'll have a look to see if I can find it and try and post it up.

[Alf]

Thanks  Pat. Yes, I run 42,5, European STD. I´ve tried half step the needles up, but there were not much difference, but I will try with the pilot air jets and 45 pilots combined with the half step needles. Thank you very much!. Good idea!

Tomorrow I will remove the advancer to test the temperature anyway

[Pat Conlon]

Alf, I remember reading somewhere that valve timing is a cause of overheating with the FJ's. I can't remember now if it said to advance of retard the timing or by how much, but apparently it cures it and gives it livelier  performance as well. I'll have a look to see if I can find it and try and post it up.

Hey Tony, I asked that question back in 2009, here's the discussion:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=712.0

[Bones]

Thanks Pat, I wasn't a member way back then so first time I've seen that post. Can't seem to find that article about overheating and the so called fix regarding the cam timing degree numbers either, but from what was posted above your better off just leaving the cams alone. I've never had an overheating issue with mine anyway with normal riding, apart from traffic jams that is, even in Summer over here so don't believe that all FJ's are afflicted with it.

[FJ_Hooligan]

If you're trying to make the mixture RICHER then do NOT install larger air pilot jets.  Larger air pilot jets will let more air into the mixture making it LEANER.

Leave the air pilot jet alone and install a larger pilot/idle jet.

Also, how much of your riding is at 3/4 and greater throttle?  If most of your ride is less than that, the main jet is not your problem.  Idle circuit and needle position are more important.

[Pat Conlon]

Sure, try the #45 pilots with your stock 155's.....if too rich, rather than go back to the 42.5's try the 157.5 pilot airs with the 45's. It's easy to change the pilot air jets.

Like I said, experiment.

[Alf]

Thank you, David   You are right: the overheat shows riding on slow roads, uphill, from 2-8000 rpm, with low speed on tight roads and then slow air flow

I have a set of 45s around there that I tested in my 3CV years ago, when I was experimenting overheating due to a too low fuel float bowls setting. It is a pain in the arse to be playing with the fuel level, and in my 1TX, those were carefully adjusted whit the revamp, 1 year ago, but maybe the solution could be there

Tony: for normal use, STD FJs, I doubt that even in traffic jams there is too much overheat... well, apart if the jam is at the Mojave dessert where Pat lives  

Thanks, guys. I will inform.

[racerrad8]

Alf,

We are going through this with another thread right now as well. Since you are in Spain, your stock jetting will be different than that offered in the US.

Can you confirm the jetting sizes including the needle and emulsion tube?

We don't want to make assumptions on what stock jetting is and offer bad info.

As David already mentioned, main jet size is not as important in sport riding than getting the idle mixture and mid-range needle adjustments correct. If your FJ came with 160 air bleed jets, then the 42.5 are probably too small and the 45 or maybe larger might be required. The needle profile is also going to be important.

Can you please advise on the jetting sizes for all jets including the numbers on the needles and emulsion tubes. From there I would be comfortable offer jetting suggestions to you.

FYI, the air bleed jets only come in whole & half sizes, 155 & 160...they do not offer the 2 & 7 sizes for that jet.

Randy - RPM

[Alf]

Randy. Thank you very much for your help. And It could be useful for your European clients, I think, so I pass you the settings of all FJ 1200 series

STD European (UK, Spain, Italy... NOT that countries restricted to 100 CV, Germany & France, or even less, Switzerland)

Float heigh 22.3 mm+-1
Main jet: 112.5                (88-on fuel pump types 110)
Main air jet: 45
Needles: different code, but are exactly the same. The only difference is that the US needles have not regulation grooves
Needle jet: Y-2
Pilot air jet 155
Pilot jet 40 (USA 37,5) (fuel pump models 42.5  (just discovering that my 1TX fit 40!)
Valve seat size:
2.3 (post 88 fuel pump 1.5)
Starter jet 30

My 1TX is STD except
KN air filter
5º advancer
XJR derestricted cans
115 mains deffinitively dont work at high alttitude, even low the temp around 5º
Shimmed needles cause virtually no effect with my overheating problems

My 3CV:
4º advancer & KN. Air box lightly opened
Open XJR cans and exhasut pan
Dynojet stage 1. 104 DJ mains.
No DJ springs or air jets fitted
No overheat problems and the bike runs perfectly at the sea level & high alttitude