So, after seeing pics of your bikes here, shame on me, because if it is not broken, don't fix it, there was nearly nothing to do on my FJ for last few years.
But all that FJ enthusiasm here on the forum seems to be contagious, I am going to try to get my bike in better shape.
I was forced to leave my bike outdoors last winter, so I have some rust issues to solve.
So I removed footpegs, grind out rust of and nickel plated all iron parts for now.
http://superstepa.rajce.idnes.cz/FJ_1100/#IMG_20170607_214951.jpg (http://superstepa.rajce.idnes.cz/FJ_1100/#IMG_20170607_214951.jpg) and few next pictures.
Exhaust is rusty too.
For silencers hopefully heat resistant colour will be enough, but collector is gone, rattled more and more, till 4th cyl intake felt off,
but some parcels are on the way and I hope to update this topic soon
Stepan
Quote from: Bezmozek on June 11, 2017, 02:59:56 PM
So, after seeing pics of your bikes here, shame on me, because if it is not broken, don't fix it, there was nearly nothing to do on my FJ for last few years.
But all that FJ enthusiasm here on the forum seems to be contagious, I am going to try to get my bike in better shape.
I was forced to leave my bike outdoors last winter, so I have some rust issues to solve.
So I removed footpegs, grind out rust of and nickel plated all iron parts for now.
http://superstepa.rajce.idnes.cz/FJ_1100/#IMG_20170607_214951.jpg (http://superstepa.rajce.idnes.cz/FJ_1100/#IMG_20170607_214951.jpg) and few next pictures.
Exhaust is rusty too.
For silencers hopefully heat resistant colour will be enough, but collector is gone, rattled more and more, till 4th cyl intake felt off,
but some parcels are on the way and I hope to update this topic soon
Stepan
I've bought some Italian high gloss black and it is holding pretty good on the exhaust. I even painted the brackets that hold the downpipes and they are still nice and shiny after some 1000 km. I'll post u a pic of a can if you want to look for it. VHT engine enamel doesn't hold (even on the mufflers).
Quote from: balky1 on June 12, 2017, 12:04:16 AM
..... VHT engine enamel doesn't hold (even on the mufflers).
Balky, the engine enamel is only made for engines and is bullet proof in that application. If you want exhaust paint though, VHT make a very high temp coating for just that.
(https://media.autobarn.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/sp102.jpg)
Noel
I know, I just said what I tried so that he doesn't make the same mistake. :dash2:
On VHT's site, I didn't see high gloss high temp black. Something I managed to find locally (made in Italy). As for VHT I did see an option of glossy high temp clear coat.
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170619_105015.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170619_133912.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170712_172445.jpg)
Finally I had time, to fit new collector and downpipes. UK made by blackwidiwexhausts
Silencers still OEM, but looking for some decent and quiet slip-on upgrade :smile:
:good2:
F-me Running! I think I just took out 3 rabbits looking at those pipes!! Beautiful!!!
Yep, fantastic!
What is your experience with the exhaust considering the fitment? No problems to bolt it on?
Just a remark, did you change those gaskets at the head ports also? They are supposed to get crushed when you tighten the downpipes so when you fiddle with them it is possible they won't seal properly.
I really like the look of them. I am looking at getting another 84 and these would look sweet on it.
Fitment was easy, except that thread on bolts on head is way short, and flanges are flat compared to OEM, so MANY spacers needed:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170712_171522.jpg).
I will buy two sets of SS spacers with different outside diameters and make fake ribbing on bolts, to dissolve heat as much as possible.
Anyway it is beautiful piece of steel, was worried about noise as there is no space for gas to expand, but nearly same as with OEM collector.
Kit came with all gaskets needed, so I changed all of them, only pain was to extract old ones after all those years :dance:
I also repainted belly pan, hopefully there will be no issue as these downpipes look to me bit more forth than OEM ones.
Will update :good:
Be sure to wipe those beauties down with alcohol or lacquer thinner to get all your finger prints off.
If you don't, when you heat those pipes up, all those finger prints will magically appear.
Nice job Stepan.... :good2:
The later models used a flanged nut.
Just swap to those.
Yes they did, they can be found here. Yamaha Steel Header Lock Nut (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Exhaust%3AH%2FN95604-08200)
Robert - RPM
Thanks, but flanged nut does not help. Thread on stud is not long enough to tighten flanges close enough to head to seal. There is 11mm gap.
At the moment, I do not want to wait for fabricating such high SS spacers, maybe will change in future :blush:
I would recommend getting somenew exhaust studs to meet your needs. Would be much better than spacers, and the existing ones are looking their age.
Mark
I've got the identical exhaust and I signed.ply went to zettlers and purchased stainless steel nuts and lock washers.i double nutted the studs haven't looked at all I check periodically.
Quote from: Mike m on July 13, 2017, 08:53:52 PM
I've got the identical exhaust and I signed.ply went to zettlers and purchased stainless steel nuts and lock washers.i double nutted the studs haven't looked at all I check periodically.
The pipes are gorgeous. I visited the mfr's website but didn't find anything about motorcycle exhausts. Do you mind sharing what, approximately, they cost landed in the U.S.?
I purchased my headers and collector separate.my cost was I think $375 with shipping.which I believe was free.the system comes with everything you need for a install.i exhaust stud nut would not fit due to the header flanges aren't as wide as oem
The headers discolor as the transition from the head going past the oil cooler in a horrible way.if I could do it over I would purchased the collector only and had my OEM pipes ceramic coated
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 13, 2017, 07:33:26 PM
I would recommend getting somenew exhaust studs to meet your needs....
Adding to my to do list, but queue is quite long at the moment.
Brakes, suspension..... :scratch_one-s_head:
As has been mentioned already, open nuts allowing the extra length of the stud to pass through would be the best fix.
Have you considered using the original flanges?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8670/16145535972_6a98e83910_c.jpg)
This is literally two minutes on the buffing wheel, straight off the bike dirt and all, with no other preparation. They clean up real quick and stay looking good waaay longer than the pipes.
Noel
....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.
Noel
those collars look great, wonder if they would fit those headers? I read on FB a while back of someone with that exhaust. the fairing wouldnt fit becasue they are to wide. Hes going to cut the fairing for clearance i think. I hope yours fit without modifying your hens tooth fairing
Quote from: ribbert on July 14, 2017, 03:44:20 AM
....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.
Noel
It's not the length that's the problem, it's that the threads are too short.
Stephan would need to cut new threads on the studs (closer to the head) which will be hard to do in situ. Easiest just to r/r the studs.
Spacers will be fine to get him going.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 14, 2017, 12:16:39 PM
Quote from: ribbert on July 14, 2017, 03:44:20 AM
....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.
Noel
It's not the length that's the problem, it's that the threads are too short.
Stephan would need to cut new threads on the studs (closer to the head) which will be hard to do in situ. Easiest just to r/r the studs.
Spacers will be fine to get him going.
And I think you can not cut new threads on because it seems to me, as I recall, that the diameter of the threaded part is larger than the diameter of the not threaded part. In that case he would have to cut the smaller thread from the beginning of the stud for smaller nuts. Or?
It appears you could (cut new threads) but it's just easier to replace.
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/Head%2095617-08635-1.jpg)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 14, 2017, 01:05:11 PM
It appears you could (cut new threads)....
Negative, Ghostrider...
If you use an outside mic to measure the diameter of the stud, you will find that the unthreaded portion is larger than the threaded portion. This is generally true of any stud or bolt. The quick-and-dirty rule of thumb for cutting threads on a piece of bar stock is to reduce the OD by 1% before cutting the threads. Thus, a piece of .500" OD bar would need to be turned (or better yet, ground) down to .495" where the threads will go.
Bill
Interesting, thank you Bill! :good2: I didn't know that...
Curious, why would grinding down the stock be better than turning it on a lathe?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 14, 2017, 01:05:11 PM
It appears you could (cut new threads) but it's just easier to replace.
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/Head%2095617-08635-1.jpg)
My memory led me to a delusion once again. :rofl:
Quote from: Bezmozek on July 13, 2017, 07:24:37 PM
At the moment, I do not want to wait for fabricating such high SS spacers.
Go with off-the-shelf stainless steel spacers (they're available on eBay, in various lengths), and the flanged nuts, and be done with it.
If you start toying with the studs, and removing them, you might find the aluminum threads from the head stuck to them when you remove them. Then you'll really be up the creek.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 14, 2017, 10:39:19 PM
Curious, why would grinding down the stock be better than turning it on a lathe?
Turning on a lathe can create very small stress risers; grinding produces a smoother finish. Granted, you are just going to take most of that surface off when you thread, but the crests of the threads will be smoother. Which also helps to get a better looking, and more concentric, thread.
From a practical standpoint, is it worth sending out a couple of studs for grinding instead of turning them down on your home lathe? Not really. But in a production environment, (I'm talking 100's or 1000's of studs) grinding will faster, cheaper, better.
That's the curse of being an engineeer... I'm always looking for a better way to accomplish a given task... what will be stronger, smoother, lighter, more durable, less maintenance? So I tend to figure out what is absolutely the best way to make or repair a part, and then I will scale back from there to a process that is practical. Or affordable. :biggrin:
When I worked at NASA, they sent the entire engineering staff to a 4-day class on bolted joints. Four full days of lecture, on just nuts and bolts. Before the class, I thought I had a pretty good understanding of threaded fasteners. But throughout the class, I (we) were constantly saying... "I didn't know that!" It was an eye-opening, and humbling, experience.
Now if you're just hanging a turn signal on your bike, it's really not that important. But if you are working on high-stress, critical fasteners (connecting rod bolts, Space Shuttle wing attachments) it is surprisingly complicated.
Bill
Quote from: CutterBill on July 15, 2017, 07:56:45 AM
When I worked at NASA, they sent the entire engineering staff to a 4-day class on bolted joints. Four full days of lecture, on just nuts and bolts. Before the class, I thought I had a pretty good understanding of threaded fasteners. But throughout the class, I (we) were constantly saying... "I didn't know that!" It was an eye-opening, and humbling, experience.
Bill
That part got me smiling, thinking about my old man. 'Details matter'.
My father was a machine operator at RR turning out Merlin parts mostly when "the push" was on. Around 1950 he came to Canada like a bunch of them did to work at A.V. Roe, turning out jet engine parts and what not. When they folded A.V. Roe he never went back into that field of work, and he didn't do much of anything I'd call mechanical around the house, certainly not working on the cars or lawnmowers. I just figured he wanted nothing to do machinery any more. Whatever he did though, he was pretty meticulous about it, I'll give him that. The Rolls Royce in him.
Getting to the point – from when I was a kid of about eight, I would tag along on Saturdays when the men would go to the church and pitch in to do odd jobs and fix this and that broken item. Mostly he chose to volunteer to paint but I swear he would leave the room, light up a smoke and be talking under his breath when he saw someone using a hacksaw or a file "incorrectly".
ups, so many posts because of studs. :wacko3:
I was thinking about using OEM flanges, but downpipes part with wider OD is taller than on OEM pipes, so studs will be short.
To make longer thread, because of access, you have to remove those from the head.
So i bought SS spacers and added some more cooling fins.
30min & approx 2USD:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170714_172357.jpg)
Also changed bent handlebar, see twist on lower part:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170717_132013.jpg)
And new turn signals instead of those small ones:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170717_160555.jpg)
:good2:
Quote from: FJ120086 on July 14, 2017, 12:01:22 PM
I read on FB a while back of someone with that exhaust. the fairing wouldnt fit becasue they are to wide. ...
OK, so I am doomed, at least an inch more needed to fit belly pan. :mad:
Any ideas?
Dremel
Killing undamaged belly pan is the last thing I want to do.
Does anybody fitted 1100 belly pan with delkevic downpipes?
Thinking about switching to delkevic if blackwidowexhausts will refund, because this is definitely not a bolt on job.
Or to make a new belly pan from fiberglass :dash2:
Pick up some used '86-95 head pipes and polish them yourself. They are all stainless steel. They fit fine on my '84 with plenty of clearance.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/3/49_01_07_12_10_13_26.jpeg)
Plus....You can re-use your oem clamp rings with no spacers.
My belly pan won't fit with black widow headers either.
Headers are not curved enough and the clamps on the collector don't tuck in enough belly pan hits them also
Tanks Pat,
can you please measure how forth are downpipes from the frame?
Ok, so delkevic collector does not fit with belly pan because of heat shields on the sides,
blackwidow does not fit at all, is there any other solution except polishing ´86-95 pipes?
Sorry, I can't at the moment...perhaps next week?
Others, feel free to chime in...
Checkout the header offered by RPM.
No clearance problems with fairing or oil drain plug
As Pat says, the later model pipes fit with the belly pan and they are SS and polish up well. They should be easy to find as plenty of members have discarded them changing to 4 into 1 systems.
This is what lurks beneath the paint....
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7489/16228655302_dc7937ecd6_c.jpg)
And this is how well they polish up....
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7570/16042819188_f02537bdb2_c.jpg)
If you're not looking to spend money unnecessarily, this is a great option. I use the original collector (which you can't see anyway) and SS slip-ons.
Looks good (I happen to prefer the period look of twin exhausts) sounds good, belly pan fits, drain plug accessible, can use original flanges, cost effective.
IMO
Noel
Quote from: Bezmozek on July 21, 2017, 01:13:19 PM
Ok, so delkevic collector does not fit with belly pan because of heat shields on the sides
I took off the heat shields and it fits my 84 with belly pan..
Cheers Alan
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 21, 2017, 05:47:11 PM
Checkout the header offered by RPM.
No clearance problems with fairing or oil drain plug
David, thank you for the recommendation.
Randy - RPM
Thanks everybody, I am waiting for reply from blackwidowexhausts and than I'll see.
I am really upset, spent 300 GBP for thing that does not fit :dash1:
Anyway, small surprise while changing generator seal.
That is why I want to do on my bike as much as i can myself.
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170720_160709.jpg)
Broken alternator bolts are fairly common on the earlier models with the two bolt retention system. Usually the broken section will spin out with left hand twist drill bits. I haven't come to a definitive conclusion on how to prevent this from happening again after a repair. You could use a medium strength locking agent but if it breaks again you have more difficulty removing it or use a higher tensile strength bolt, again more difficult to remove. I am using standard bolts and regularly checking tensions. Others will have their own ideas I'm sure.
Regards, Pete.
Looks like you got it out....that's the battle right there.
As Pete said, broken bolts generally come out easily because they're no longer under load.
The obvious fix for a bolt that is known to break would be a stronger bolt, as Pete mentioned, but in this case it would concern me that the load and fatigue would then be transferred to the lug on the generator housing. Snap that off and you're in even more trouble.
I would continue to use standard bolts and check regularly, not by tightening it more but just making sure it's not loose. Make it part of every oil/filter change.
IMO
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 23, 2017, 04:31:52 AM... Make it part of every oil/filter change.
IMO
Noel
I will, thanks.
So to make blackwidowexhaust story complete:
Their parts definitely not fit to OEM and I do not know any english word to describe how angry I was.
e-mailing with them takes way long, was waiting for reply 6, 8 days etc. Finally they offered me refund.
I was thinking about keeping collector, as it was reason I purchased their product, but after finding out, that it will not fit to OEM downpipes and hit oil pan, I gave up and removed all system.
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170801_085419.jpg)
I probably don't fully understand imperial stainless steel scale, but I thought that it will last without rust more than one week/less than 100km of dry ride.
After I found that all downpipes have rust pits, I packed all that crap and sent it back to England. :ireful:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170801_105934.jpg)
So the total is:
2nd of June ordered, 9th of august refunded, bike nearly two months grounded, lot of time spent trying to fit it without air leaks, buying spacers and flanges bent anyway,
set of gaskets wasted and paying shipping back to UK and fees cost me in total 1886,76 CZK ( over 80 USD ) which I feel as an injustice.
I was about to ban forever everything that distantly reminds UK, tea, f
U.K.ng etc, but miracle came to me.
I wrote an e-mail to Delkevic. In few hours I got reply, so 3 e-mails there and back in one morning to confirm, that heat shields and belly pan issue was corrected and placed order.
In fear I was waiting for delivery, but was surprised in best way.
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170807_141644.jpg)
Ok, looks beautiful, but will it finally fit?
After spending many hours under my bike to fit blacwidowexhaust, this one was in place in 30min, incl. coffee & cigarette break.
They updated their product, removed heat shields, no force needed to fit silencers back, pure pleasure to mount this.
Beside that, perfect communication with customers, totally different experience.
PERFECT JOB YOU DID THERE, GOD SAVE THE DELKEVIC :yahoo: :yahoo: :good2:
So finally I am on the road again, major issues fixed and I think it is time to make my own topic in project bikes :good2:
Czech Republic is also involved in this: if you payed via PayPal you have the chance to get your return postage refunded. I used it many times. https://www.paypal.com/gr/webapps/mpp/refunded-returns/general-conditions (https://www.paypal.com/gr/webapps/mpp/refunded-returns/general-conditions)
:yahoo: :yahoo:
Last day of 2017 was +10°C here, great chance for small update.
Finally I found set of 1TX downpipes for sale, but seller forgot to tell me, that pipe no.3 was cut in half with angle grinder :dash2:
Found 3rd pipe on German eBay, so for same price as 1.2.&4. I bought it.
Just light sanding and wire disc polishing on lower end. Wrapped in thermal tape and ready to mount.
I was really curious what was wrong with my exhaust previously as repairing motorbikes is my part time job for years and I don't think I am BFU unable to mount it.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/1tx.jpg)
All clear now, photo shows both cyl.No1 downpipes, original double wall FJ1100 on left, 1TX on right.
Now it makes sense. FJ1200 downpipes ale approx inch longer on lower end connecting to collector, that is why I was unable to fit collector and 1100 downpipes, they were too short to fit.
So 1100 and 1200 pipes are NOT same, but perfectly interchangeable. I removed first pipe with other old ones still in place and mounted new one with no issue, force etc. collector stayed exactly in same position.
So finally it is in place, looks great, no air leaks, I am happy as kid can be o Christmas :good2:
Everything issue with my blackwidow exhaust matches this thread.although I got mine to seal.considering a rpm exhaust if I can find a suitable slip on to fit
Probably I had Friday shift piece, on one of previous photos you can see that instead 4-in line, this was more like 4-in wave, especially 2nd cyl. downpipe was in wrong angle to make it fit.
Quite a pity as I like their collector style.
And slip ons for FJ are hard to find, I have stainless steel Art Pro Series mufflers for CBR1100XX, angles on connecting pipes look similar, only will probably have to shorten those about 10cm(4″) and silencer volume looks accurate for FJ.
Will let you know about results. :mail1:
After neglected maintenance is nearly done, I am about to start with upgrades.
First I want to upgrade rear suspension.
So had to change needle bearings in CBR F4i shock.
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180103_162446.jpg)
For Randy and others here with über fancy factory tools, hydraulic press etc. it is probably funny story, but as my favorite tool UH500 (universal hammer 500g) failed,
I had nothing more at home, than groove joint pliers and 1/4" ratchet so with M8 bolt and few spacers I succeeded.
When I will have shock ready to mount, I would like to do all on rear end at once.
Already I have FZS1000 tension bar, FJR1300 rear brake disc so now looking for seals and R6 side stand.
OK, not just fun while working on FJ.
Last week I noticed brake fluid on my right caliper.
Did not wanted to risk front brake failure, so had to buy new SS braided lines ASAP.
And here is what happened: :dash2:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/line.jpg)
Lasted 8 months only, so I changed both sides before left one will crack.
:wacko3:
Stepan, who made that brake line?
Why do you need that right angle banjo fitting?
Was it going to your fork anti dive valve? I wonder if some kind of line stress caused that fracture?
Make sure brake fluid did not contaminate the brake pads.
Good catch.....that could have been very bad.
Hose is Lucas brand, but wanted to change banjo angle because of four-pots.
One of bike shops here in Prague did that for me because I wanted to be 100% sure about my brakes a never did this before.
No one will touch my bike again!
Spent 100$ for brembo system hoses and did it myself this time, so if you will see my posts here later, I did that right. :sarcastic:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 30, 2018, 02:49:26 PM
....Make sure brake fluid did not contaminate the brake pads.
too late :negative:
Bright side of life is that I found that, on picture crack looks big, but on bike was hardly noticeable, like hair or so....
And I am looking forward to see faces in Triumph store asking brake pads for my yamaha :rofl2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJUhlRoBL8M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJUhlRoBL8M)
Removed and glued fairing:
Inner part sanded with approx 5k grit scotchbrite and vaxed
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/DSC_0087.jpg)
Lego-toluene method applied on cracked fairing, OEM windshield hides outer side, inner is nearly invisible.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/DSC_0097.jpg)
Also toluened side grill mounting points, half was already gone.
Had to replace two damaged rubber grommets with rubber washers and nuts, nothing can be seen from outside.
Besides that I repaired two older cracks on inner part of fairing and added missing part around bolt holding headlight adjuster.
Cleaned wiring and fixed insulation on one place.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/DSC_0100.jpg)
All bolted back :dance2: :dance2: :dance2:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/DSC_0107.jpg)
Looks better than ever before, just curious about loosening screws.
I know that mud, rust and dust works great as threadlock, will see.
Quote from: Bezmozek on March 17, 2019, 08:01:29 PM
Looks better than ever before, just curious about loosening screws.
I know that mud, rust and dust works great as threadlock, will see.
:rofl2:
Great work mate.
I try to use a rubber washer on the fairing mount bolts and screws. They don't come loose and 'should' reduce cracking.
Found someone with tools to swap XJR cogs on FJ shaft:
Another difference than length is 1st gear cogs fit.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/trann.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/tran.jpg)
And had some time for big puzzle yesterday:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/case.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/full.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/done.jpg)
:yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:
:good2: :good2: :good2: :good2:
Awesome mate!
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200506_151257.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200506_132316.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200512_155432.jpg)
Engine completed so just put it into the frame:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200520_135641.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200520_142612.jpg)
And asi I terribly mismatched wiring in FJ600 and FJ1100 in different thread I had to check mine and just made a little transplant:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200521_183108.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200521_194339.jpg)
So I am happy to repot that XJR transmission works in FJ and I am on the road again :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20200526_132637.jpg)