Just some maintenance

[Charlie-brm]

I've got the identical exhaust and I signed.ply went to zettlers and purchased stainless steel nuts and lock washers.i double nutted the studs haven't looked at all I check periodically.

The pipes are gorgeous. I visited the mfr's website but didn't find anything about motorcycle exhausts. Do you mind sharing what, approximately, they cost landed in the U.S.?

[Mike m]

I purchased my headers and collector separate.my cost was I think $375 with shipping.which I believe was free.the system comes with everything you need for a install.i exhaust stud nut would not fit due to the header flanges aren't as wide as oem

[Mike m]

The headers discolor as the transition from the head going past the oil cooler in a horrible way.if I could do it over I would purchased the collector only and had my OEM pipes ceramic coated

[Bezmozek]

I would recommend getting somenew exhaust studs to meet your needs....

Adding to my to do list, but queue is quite long at the moment.
Brakes, suspension..... 

[ribbert]

As has been mentioned already, open nuts allowing the extra length of the stud to pass through would be the best fix.

Have you considered using the original flanges?



This is literally two minutes on the buffing wheel, straight off the bike dirt and all, with no other preparation. They clean up real quick and stay looking good waaay longer than the pipes.

Noel

[ribbert]

....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.

Noel

[FJ120086]

those collars look great, wonder if they would fit those headers? I read on FB a while back of someone with that exhaust. the fairing wouldnt fit becasue they are to wide. Hes going to cut the fairing for clearance i think. I hope yours fit without modifying your hens tooth fairing

[Pat Conlon]

....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.

Noel

It's not the length that's the problem, it's that the threads are too short.
Stephan would need to cut new threads on the studs (closer to the head) which will be hard to do in situ. Easiest just to r/r the studs.

Spacers will be fine to get him going.

[balky1]

....or just shorten the studs in situ. I don't see any need to replace them unless they're stripped or excessively corroded which is unlikely.

Noel

It's not the length that's the problem, it's that the threads are too short.
Stephan would need to cut new threads on the studs (closer to the head) which will be hard to do in situ. Easiest just to r/r the studs.

Spacers will be fine to get him going.

And I think you can not cut new threads on because it seems to me, as I recall, that the diameter of the threaded part is larger than the diameter of the not threaded part. In that case he would have to cut the smaller thread from the beginning of the stud for smaller nuts. Or?

[Pat Conlon]

It appears you could (cut new threads) but it's just easier to replace.

[CutterBill]

It appears you could (cut new threads)....

Negative, Ghostrider...

If you use an outside mic to measure the diameter of the stud, you will find that the unthreaded portion is larger than the threaded portion. This is generally true of any stud or bolt.  The quick-and-dirty rule of thumb for cutting threads on a piece of bar stock is to reduce the OD by 1% before cutting the threads.  Thus, a piece of .500" OD bar would need to be turned (or better yet, ground) down to .495" where the threads will go.
Bill

[Pat Conlon]

Interesting, thank you Bill!   I didn't know that...

Curious, why would grinding down the stock be better than turning it on a lathe?

[balky1]

It appears you could (cut new threads) but it's just easier to replace.

My memory led me to a delusion once again. 

[FJ1100mjk]

At the moment, I do not want to wait for fabricating such high SS spacers.

Go with off-the-shelf stainless steel spacers (they're available on eBay, in various lengths), and the flanged nuts, and be done with it.

If you start toying with the studs, and removing them, you might find the aluminum threads from the head stuck to them when you remove them. Then you'll really be up the creek.

[CutterBill]

Curious, why would grinding down the stock be better than turning it on a lathe?

Turning on a lathe can create very small stress risers; grinding produces a smoother finish. Granted, you are just going to take most of that surface off when you thread, but the crests of the threads will be smoother. Which also helps to get a better looking, and more concentric, thread.

From a practical standpoint, is it worth sending out a couple of studs for grinding instead of turning them down on your home lathe? Not really. But in a production environment, (I'm talking 100's or 1000's of studs) grinding will faster, cheaper, better. 

That's the curse of being an engineeer... I'm always looking for a better way to accomplish a given task... what will be stronger, smoother, lighter, more durable, less maintenance?  So I tend to figure out what is absolutely the best way to make or repair a part, and then I will scale back from there to a process that is practical. Or affordable.

When I worked at NASA, they sent the entire engineering staff to a 4-day class on bolted joints. Four full days of lecture, on just nuts and bolts. Before the class, I thought I had a pretty good understanding of threaded fasteners. But throughout the class, I (we) were constantly saying... "I didn't know that!"  It was an eye-opening, and humbling, experience.

Now if you're just hanging a turn signal on your bike, it's really not that important. But if you are working on high-stress, critical fasteners (connecting rod bolts, Space Shuttle wing attachments) it is surprisingly complicated.
Bill