Just some maintenance

[oldktmdude]

   Broken alternator bolts are fairly common on the earlier models with the two bolt retention system. Usually the broken section will spin out with left hand twist drill bits. I haven't come to a definitive  conclusion on how to prevent this from happening again after a repair. You could use a medium strength locking agent but if it breaks again you have more difficulty removing it or use a higher tensile strength bolt, again more difficult to remove. I am using standard bolts and regularly checking tensions. Others will have their own ideas I'm sure.
   Regards, Pete.

[Pat Conlon]

Looks like you got it out....that's the battle right there.

[ribbert]

As Pete said, broken bolts generally come out easily because they're no longer under load.

The obvious fix for a bolt that is known to break would be a stronger bolt, as Pete mentioned, but in this case it would concern me that the load and fatigue would then be transferred to the lug on the generator housing. Snap that off and you're in even more trouble.

I would continue to use standard bolts and check regularly, not by tightening it more but just making sure it's not loose. Make it part of every oil/filter change.

IMO

Noel

[Bezmozek]

... Make it part of every oil/filter change.
IMO
Noel

I will, thanks.


So to make blackwidowexhaust story complete:
Their parts definitely not fit to OEM and I do not know any english word to describe how angry I was.
e-mailing with them takes way long, was waiting for reply 6, 8 days etc. Finally they offered me refund.
I was thinking about keeping collector, as it was reason I purchased their product, but after finding out, that it will not fit to OEM downpipes and hit oil pan, I gave up and removed all system.


I probably don't fully understand imperial stainless steel scale, but I thought that it will last without rust more than one week/less than 100km of dry ride.
After I found that all downpipes have rust pits, I packed all that crap and sent it back to England.  

So the total is:
2nd of June ordered, 9th of august refunded, bike nearly two months grounded, lot of time spent trying to fit it without air leaks, buying spacers and flanges bent anyway,
set of gaskets wasted and paying shipping back to UK and fees cost me in total 1886,76 CZK ( over 80 USD ) which I feel as an injustice.

I was about to ban forever everything that distantly reminds UK, tea, fU.K.ng etc, but miracle came to me.

I wrote an e-mail to Delkevic. In few hours I got reply, so 3 e-mails there and back in one morning to confirm, that heat shields and belly pan issue was corrected and placed order.
In fear I was waiting for delivery, but was surprised in best way.

Ok, looks beautiful, but will it finally fit?
After spending many hours under my bike to fit blacwidowexhaust, this one was in place in 30min, incl. coffee & cigarette break.
They updated their product, removed heat shields, no force needed to fit silencers back, pure pleasure to mount this.
Beside that, perfect communication with customers, totally different experience.
PERFECT JOB YOU DID THERE, GOD SAVE THE DELKEVIC  

So finally I am on the road again, major issues fixed and I think it is time to make my own topic in project bikes  

[balky1]

Czech Republic is also involved in this: if you payed via PayPal you have the chance to get your return postage refunded. I used it many times. https://www.paypal.com/gr/webapps/mpp/refunded-returns/general-conditions

[Bezmozek]

 
Last day of 2017 was +10°C here, great chance for small update.

Finally I found set of 1TX downpipes for sale, but seller forgot to tell me, that pipe no.3 was cut in half with angle grinder
Found 3rd pipe on German eBay, so for same price as 1.2.&4. I bought it.
Just light sanding and wire disc polishing on lower end. Wrapped in thermal tape and ready to mount.
I was really curious what was wrong with my exhaust previously as repairing motorbikes is my part time job for years and I don't think I am BFU unable to mount it.



All clear now, photo shows both cyl.No1 downpipes, original double wall FJ1100 on left, 1TX on right.
Now it makes sense. FJ1200 downpipes ale approx inch longer on lower end connecting to collector, that is why I was unable to fit collector and 1100 downpipes, they were too short to fit.
So 1100 and 1200 pipes are NOT same, but perfectly interchangeable. I removed first pipe with other old ones still in place and mounted new one with no issue, force etc. collector stayed exactly in same position.
So finally it is in place, looks great, no air leaks, I am happy as kid can be o Christmas 

[Mike m]

Everything issue with my blackwidow exhaust matches this thread.although I got mine to seal.considering a rpm exhaust if I can find a suitable slip on to fit

[Bezmozek]

Probably I had Friday shift piece, on one of previous photos you can see that instead 4-in line, this was more like 4-in wave, especially 2nd cyl. downpipe was in wrong angle to make it fit.
Quite a pity as I like their collector style.
And slip ons for FJ are hard to find, I have stainless steel Art Pro Series mufflers for CBR1100XX, angles on connecting pipes look similar, only will probably have to shorten those about 10cm(4″) and silencer volume looks accurate for FJ.
Will let you know about results. 

[Bezmozek]

After neglected maintenance is nearly done, I am about to start with upgrades.
First I want to upgrade rear suspension.
So had to change needle bearings in CBR F4i shock.


For Randy and others here with über fancy factory tools, hydraulic press etc. it is probably funny story, but as my favorite tool UH500 _{(universal hammer 500g)} failed,
I had nothing more at home, than groove joint pliers and 1/4" ratchet so with M8 bolt and few spacers I succeeded.

When I will have shock ready to mount, I would like to do all on rear end at once.
Already I have FZS1000 tension bar, FJR1300 rear brake disc so now looking for seals and R6 side stand.

[Bezmozek]

OK, not just fun while working on FJ.
Last week I noticed brake fluid on my right caliper.
Did not wanted to risk front brake failure, so had to buy new SS braided lines ASAP.
And here is what happened: 


Lasted 8 months only, so I changed both sides before left one will crack.

[Pat Conlon]

Stepan, who made that brake line?
Why do you need that right angle banjo fitting?
Was it going to your fork anti dive valve? I wonder if some kind of line stress caused that fracture?

Make sure brake fluid did not contaminate the brake pads.

Good catch.....that could have been very bad.

[Bezmozek]

Hose is Lucas brand, but wanted to change banjo angle because of four-pots.
One of bike shops here in Prague did that for me because I wanted to be 100% sure about my brakes a never did this before.
No one will touch my bike again!
Spent 100$ for brembo system hoses and did it myself this time, so if you will see my posts here later, I did that right. 

....Make sure brake fluid did not contaminate the brake pads.

too late 

Bright side of life is that I found that, on picture crack looks big, but on bike was hardly noticeable, like hair or so....
And I am looking forward to see faces in Triumph store asking brake pads for my yamaha 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJUhlRoBL8M

[Bezmozek]

Removed and glued fairing:

Inner part sanded with approx 5k grit scotchbrite and vaxed


Lego-toluene method applied on cracked fairing, OEM windshield hides outer side, inner is nearly invisible.

Also toluened side grill mounting points, half was already gone.
Had to replace two damaged rubber grommets with rubber washers and nuts, nothing can be seen from outside.


Besides that I repaired two older cracks on inner part of fairing and added missing part around bolt holding headlight adjuster.
Cleaned wiring and fixed insulation on one place.


All bolted back 


Looks better than ever before, just curious about loosening screws.
I know that mud, rust and dust works great as threadlock, will see.

[Troyskie]

Looks better than ever before, just curious about loosening screws.
I know that mud, rust and dust works great as threadlock, will see.

Great work mate.
I try to use a rubber washer on the fairing mount bolts and screws. They don't come loose and 'should' reduce cracking.

[Bezmozek]

Found someone with tools to swap XJR cogs on FJ shaft:
Another difference than length is 1st gear cogs fit.




And had some time for big puzzle yesterday: