I got an '85 1100 FJ. Recently rebuilt the freakin' petcock. And today I smelt gas while covering the bike. And then I saw the puddle. :diablo:
Looked at the oil level and it was clear to me that gas leaked into the crankcase. Luckily I always check oil before trying to start it. Total shit. Changed the oil 3k km back.
I now need to change the oil and fix the petcock. Probably float valves in the carbs, too? I mean, since they didn't shut the fuel, one or more are probably broken, right?
In that case what should I consider buying and replacing in the carbs?
Floats, needles and their seats, and if they are in good to new condition, with the float and float bowl fuel levels set correctly, will not permit the gas to flow from the tank into the engine. Even with a bad petcock that allows fuel to flow if you take the fuel hose of its outlet. <=== This has been established here on this forum, and I can concur with my experiences on my gravity-fed FJs.
One thing I did find that allows too much fuel into the float bowls, is stuck or sticking floats, or small rust/scale particles from the fuel tank's inner surfaces that migrate in the fuel flow, and get caught between the rubber tip of the float needle, and the float needle's seat. Usually some tapping on the float bowls clears this, but it returns again to aggravate until fixed correctly.
Quote from: balky1 on August 18, 2015, 01:31:20 PM
Looked at the oil level and it was clear to me that gas leaked into the crankcase.
That's called, "Makin' oil!"
I've had fuel tank grit prevent the needles from seating in both a gravity feed '82 Yamaha and on my fuel pump '92 FJ. In the case of the '82, fuel would continue to flow when the bike was parked and I was makin' oil. In the case of my '92, fuel would only flow when the bike was running, so it showed up as an overly rich condition and the excess fuel spilling out of the choke circuit tubes. A good carb and fuel tank cleaning eventually took care of both of those issues, but you have to have a good look at your petcock as well.
Quote from: Capn Ron on August 18, 2015, 02:23:19 PM
Quote from: balky1 on August 18, 2015, 01:31:20 PM
Looked at the oil level and it was clear to me that gas leaked into the crankcase.
That's called, "Makin' oil!"
I've had fuel tank grit prevent the needles from seating in both a gravity feed '82 Yamaha and on my fuel pump '92 FJ. In the case of the '82, fuel would continue to flow when the bike was parked and I was makin' oil. In the case of my '92, fuel would only flow when the bike was running, so it showed up as an overly rich condition and the excess fuel spilling out of the choke circuit tubes. A good carb and fuel tank cleaning eventually took care of both of those issues, but you have to have a good look at your petcock as well.
That stupid petcock. I changed all the O-rings and 4 hole seal. I'm thinking the spring is maybe loose or something from the tank got stuck at that little port where O-ring usually closes the fuel. It's not even leaking, a drip or two from time to time. Once I was lucky when this happened, only overflowed the carbs with nothing in the crankcase, but this time not.
IU'm guessing the early FJ's have a gravity/vaccuum fuel feed than the later 1200's with their electric fuel pump?
My 92 is permanently on as I can see it, with just a spanner operated shut off cock for removing the tank. So is there any chance of fuel leaking past the fuel pump into the carbs ?
Quote from: FJools on August 19, 2015, 05:49:47 AM
IU'm guessing the early FJ's have a gravity/vaccuum fuel feed than the later 1200's with their electric fuel pump?
My 92 is permanently on as I can see it, with just a spanner operated shut off cock for removing the tank. So is there any chance of fuel leaking past the fuel pump into the carbs ?
Yes, 1100 (maybe early 1200) have vacuum gravity petcock, without fuel pump.
There are definitely 2 things that caused this: faulty petcock that didn't shut off the fuel and float/float valve problem in at least one carb that let the fuel overflow in the crankcase.
Just a little update.
I found the reason for petcock leakage. Some mess got stuck in it and it couldn't close properly. Now it's working. The reason for that is the previous owner that cut the screen on the petcock fuel filter so now I don't have the filter at all.
And maybe I panicked too soon. After I moved to bike to a new location, oil level seemed OK. I need to find some level ground to get the proper reading.
I'm still thinking about finding and fixing that one carb that leaked the fuel (i.e. float not working). I was thinking to turn the tap on PRI and see out of which one (or more) the fuel leaks, with engine not running. Do you think that would work? Also a chance to clean the carbs. :gamer:
You need to fix the filter on the petcock first or the problem will continue. This is the root cause and will allow crud and crap to keep contaminating your carbs, regardless how many times you clean them. Like having a leaking pipe, you keep cleaning up the water on the floor but the water comes back...
Then time for a good carb clean, and if your needles and seats are working properly, all will be well again.
Good on finding the root cause, now you are not chasing smoke and gremlins. :good2:
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 20, 2015, 01:25:28 AM
You need to fix the filter on the petcock first or the problem will continue. This is the root cause and will allow crud and crap to keep contaminating your carbs, regardless how many times you clean them. Like having a leaking pipe, you keep cleaning up the water on the floor but the water comes back...
Then time for a good carb clean, and if your needles and seats are working properly, all will be well again.
Good on finding the root cause, now you are not chasing smoke and gremlins. :good2:
Yeah, but how to fix it when I can't find it anywhere. Except to buy the whole petcock and right now not enough money for such thing. That filter is on my priority list for long time, since I've seen it has been tampered with, but couldn't find it anywhere. In-line filter is out of the question because of starvation probs, as I've read it here.
I was also surprised that without the filter I've still ridden the bike 15000 km witout any problems. That would mean that either the fuel tank and fuel were very clean (lol, not obviously :-D) or that I was one lucky SOB not to get any of the jets clogged.
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 02:04:16 AM
Yeah, but how to fix it when I can't find it anywhere. Except to buy the whole petcock and right now not enough money for such thing. That filter is on my priority list for long time, since I've seen it has been tampered with, but couldn't find it anywhere. In-line filter is out of the question because of starvation probs, as I've read it here.
I was also surprised that without the filter I've still ridden the bike 15000 km witout any problems. That would mean that either the fuel tank and fuel were very clean (lol, not obviously :-D) or that I was one lucky SOB not to get any of the jets clogged.
I see, a difficult situation to stay running on a budget. Perhaps some other members here can find some options that will help. I will will keep looking, you are not the only one looking for a filter unit to fit an '84/'85.
[edit] I just found something and sent you a PM
There is fuel filter manufacturer I found in Croatia. Will see what they say, can they do something.
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 02:04:16 AM
Yeah, but how to fix it when I can't find it anywhere. Except to buy the whole petcock and right now not enough money for such thing. That filter is on my priority list for long time, since I've seen it has been tampered with, but couldn't find it anywhere. In-line filter is out of the question because of starvation probs, as I've read it here.
I was also surprised that without the filter I've still ridden the bike 15000 km witout any problems. That would mean that either the fuel tank and fuel were very clean (lol, not obviously :-D) or that I was one lucky SOB not to get any of the jets clogged.
Hey Balky...I've been reading through this thread off and on and as is not uncommon with carburetor issues, the topic of filters comes up. As I mentioned in a previous reply, fine grit in the fuel tanks on two of my bikes gave me trouble. Now...you own a gravity-feed year and the mere mention of a filter gets everyone all sorts of excited about fuel flow and fuel starvation...so what to do? Fast-forward to the Monkey mentioning that you HAVE to get the petcock filter replaced and it got me to thinking through this...
Really? Aren't those petcock filters just just screen-door sized screens to block the big chunks?
I then went to the RPM site to have a look and ....ehhh...they do look like they provide a good amount of initial filtration. They're tall so they won't get all plugged up and fail and...I'm not sure of the micron size spec, but they're a lot finer than a screen door. That got me to thinking about your problem in not wanting to buy an expensive petcock juuuust to get the filter. In-line filters come in all sorts of micron sizes. My question to you...and to anyone else is...Can't you add an in-line filter that matches the petcock filter in micron size? Wouldn't that be the same impact on fuel flow as the factory petcock filter? I imagine it wouldn't be as fine as to completely solve your needle and seat problem, but it would be a barrier to the big chunks of crud coming down the line...
Quote from: Capn Ron on August 20, 2015, 04:58:25 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 02:04:16 AM
Yeah, but how to fix it when I can't find it anywhere. Except to buy the whole petcock and right now not enough money for such thing. That filter is on my priority list for long time, since I've seen it has been tampered with, but couldn't find it anywhere. In-line filter is out of the question because of starvation probs, as I've read it here.
I was also surprised that without the filter I've still ridden the bike 15000 km witout any problems. That would mean that either the fuel tank and fuel were very clean (lol, not obviously :-D) or that I was one lucky SOB not to get any of the jets clogged.
Hey Balky...I've been reading through this thread off and on and as is not uncommon with carburetor issues, the topic of filters comes up. As I mentioned in a previous reply, fine grit in the fuel tanks on two of my bikes gave me trouble. Now...you own a gravity-feed year and the mere mention of a filter gets everyone all sorts of excited about fuel flow and fuel starvation...so what to do? Fast-forward to the Monkey mentioning that you HAVE to get the petcock filter replaced and it got me to thinking through this...
Really? Aren't those petcock filters just just screen-door sized screens to block the big chunks?
I then went to the RPM site to have a look and ....ehhh...they do look like they provide a good amount of initial filtration. They're tall so they won't get all plugged up and fail and...I'm not sure of the micron size spec, but they're a lot finer than a screen door. That got me to thinking about your problem in not wanting to buy an expensive petcock juuuust to get the filter. In-line filters come in all sorts of micron sizes. My question to you...and to anyone else is...Can't you add an in-line filter that matches the petcock filter in micron size? Wouldn't that be the same impact on fuel flow as the factory petcock filter? I imagine it wouldn't be as fine as to completely solve your needle and seat problem, but it would be a barrier to the big chunks of crud coming down the line...
Hi Ron!
Instructed by the current situation that my petcock got clogged and leaked because of that, I would like to have the pre-petcock filter. I found 63 micrometer fabric that I will check for fuel resistance and somehow put on the existing in-tank filter. OEM filter had finer mesh than 63, but that only means I won't starve the bike and won't get such big chunks in the fuel line. That's most important right now. Even before reading the topic on this forum, I thought that in-line filters could cause problems because gravity isn't enough for free fuel flow through much finer paper material filters are usually made of today. But, as you said, coarser filter should, by my logic also, work fine as long it has enough place under the tank for fuel lines not to bend upward at some point, if you get me. That's also, probably, the reason why fuel line routing is very important on these bikes. I am not experienced mechanic, but these things sound logical.
It seems I got lucky and fuel didn't leak into the crankcase. I checked it again seconds ago and oil level looks fine. Although I already ordered new oil, doesn't matter. Some time in the future it will come in handy. :yahoo:
Also, I don't think debris caused the float to let the fuel leak. This already happened to me once on this bike, probably with the same carb and I haven't dealt it back then. It is either float valve or wrong float setting. I think (read: hope) it is probably the later. Since some job is really pending for me like valve adjustment followed by carb synching (cleaning them before) if I definitely see today that oil level is correct I even won't take the carbs off for cleaning and adjustments since the bike rode fantastic. Then I will go one thing after another some time in the future. Even if it leaks again (and it shouldn't) it's not the problem since I'm the kind of enthusiast that checks the oil level before every start. :good2: And now I will have spare 4 liters. :lol:
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 03:51:05 AM
There is fuel filter manufacturer I found in Croatia. Will see what they say, can they do something.
Balky, in tank screen filters are common on small engine implements, lawn mowers, ride ons etc , cars with in tank pumps have a larger version of the same thing or a filter "bag", depends what will fit through the hole in your tank.
You could even feed a big one in through the filler hole and attach it to the petcock with a hose and just leave it lying in the bottom of the tank.
With the right sort of glue, you could modify one or just use the material and make your own.
Screen fuel grade filters of all sizes are common, I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to graft something on there for primary filtration but it
must be made for fuel.
Start thinking along these lines and all sorts of solutions will come to you.
If it was me, I'd start by heading to the local lawn mower shop with the petcock in my hand. Even if they can't help with a part, presumably the bloke now holding it in his hand looking at it has a lot of experience at improvising and might have some ideas or point you in the right direction.
Noel
Yep, probably.
Thx Noel. All sort of things come to my mind also right now. :-)
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 05:48:00 AM
Yep, probably.
Thx Noel. All sort of things come to my mind also right now. :-)
No, pushing it off a cliff wasn't what I had in mind :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 20, 2015, 07:04:34 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 05:48:00 AM
Yep, probably.
Thx Noel. All sort of things come to my mind also right now. :-)
No, pushing it off a cliff wasn't what I had in mind :biggrin:
Noel
:rofl2:
There are all kinds of fuel petcock replacement screens available.
Get something like this--->http://www.jpcycles.com/product/720-097 (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/720-097)
Get some sort of fuel resistant epoxy, and glue it to your petcock.
Like Noel said, just go to a "Powersports" type shop or dealer. I'm sure they have a number of different screens behind the counter.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 20, 2015, 03:35:33 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 02:04:16 AM
Yeah, but how to fix it when I can't find it anywhere. Except to buy the whole petcock and right now not enough money for such thing. That filter is on my priority list for long time, since I've seen it has been tampered with, but couldn't find it anywhere. In-line filter is out of the question because of starvation probs, as I've read it here.
I was also surprised that without the filter I've still ridden the bike 15000 km witout any problems. That would mean that either the fuel tank and fuel were very clean (lol, not obviously :-D) or that I was one lucky SOB not to get any of the jets clogged.
I see, a difficult situation to stay running on a budget. Perhaps some other members here can find some options that will help. I will will keep looking, you are not the only one looking for a filter unit to fit an '84/'85.
[edit] I just found something and sent you a PM
Re: Starvation Problems: I can tell you that we have a wix inline (from Randy) on our 86 because of the tank and it has no starvation issues except possibly at very high rpms for an extended period. In normal riding there are no issues at all.
Jeff
Quote from: balky1 on August 20, 2015, 05:44:07 AM
.......coarser filter should, by my logic also, work fine.......
The idea of the screen at the source is also to keep crap out of the petcock. An in-line filter that free flowing would not be considered by most to be a filter. I'm not even sure cheap in line filters offer degrees of filtration.
Noel
Boy Noel, you are a nighthawk. :mail1:
I've recently been dealing with this same issue. All the fine mesh screen material missing from petcock inlet.
I got some metal window screen material and JB Weld intended for gas tank repair and simply "JB'd" it in place. Obviously much larger openings but, I believe, better than nothing.
http://www.travers.com/81-007-303?Category=UserSearch=81-007-303&gclid=CK2AtJfjwccCFYc6gQodP80AcA (http://www.travers.com/81-007-303?Category=UserSearch=81-007-303&gclid=CK2AtJfjwccCFYc6gQodP80AcA)
Haven't totally finished carbs rebuild yet, so will report back when ready to ride!
Good luck with it...
Quote from: AppleJack on August 24, 2015, 08:06:45 AM
I've recently been dealing with this same issue. All the fine mesh screen material missing from petcock inlet.
I got some metal window screen material and JB Weld intended for gas tank repair and simply "JB'd" it in place. Obviously much larger openings but, I believe, better than nothing.
http://www.travers.com/81-007-303?Category=UserSearch=81-007-303&gclid=CK2AtJfjwccCFYc6gQodP80AcA (http://www.travers.com/81-007-303?Category=UserSearch=81-007-303&gclid=CK2AtJfjwccCFYc6gQodP80AcA)
Haven't totally finished carbs rebuild yet, so will report back when ready to ride!
Good luck with it...
I got the carbs down. Float was set high in carb 2 from which it leaks. I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems. But I will have to wait for it until monday. Meanwhile no riding. :gamer:
Petcock screen repair still in progress. I will report the success (or failure :bomb:).
Quote from: AppleJack on August 24, 2015, 08:06:45 AM
I got some metal window screen material and JB Weld intended for gas tank repair and simply "JB'd" it in place.
Just a word of warning, but depending on what JB Weld that you used, some are only classed as "resistant" to gasoline, and may not fare too well if submersed in gasoline.
See sixth FAQ down...
http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs (http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs)
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 08:17:37 AM
I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....
Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings? You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 24, 2015, 11:34:39 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 08:17:37 AM
I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....
Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings? You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.
Well... No.
MJK - Yes, I made certain that the product was compatible for gasoline. Says so right on the packaging -
"Will cure submerged in water or gasoline"
Thanks...
Quote from: AppleJack on August 24, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
MJK - Yes, I made certain that the product was compatible for gasoline. Says so right on the packaging -
"Will cure submerged in water or gasoline"
Thanks...
That open mesh is like nothing at all.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 24, 2015, 08:01:59 PM
Quote from: AppleJack on August 24, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
MJK - Yes, I made certain that the product was compatible for gasoline. Says so right on the packaging -
"Will cure submerged in water or gasoline"
Thanks...
That open mesh is like nothing at all.
+1. Make a little sock out of a fine mesh and put it on over the corse one you have there. Now you've got a fine mesh with a strong structure to support it AND a nice little bag to capture the JBW chunks if it goes to shit. Great plan!
Frank
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 24, 2015, 08:01:59 PM
Quote from: AppleJack on August 24, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
MJK - Yes, I made certain that the product was compatible for gasoline. Says so right on the packaging -
"Will cure submerged in water or gasoline"
Thanks...
That open mesh is like nothing at all.
It is coarse for sure, but if you saw the chunk that got stuck in my petcock.... Even with such mesh, it wouldn't.
Just as an info for you all. Sieve makers usually sell stainless steel mesh also. With various apertures. If anyone need it. Tyler is the manufacturer in USA, in EU there are many: Retsch and Endecotts for example.
A bit of update. Yesterday my float needle and seat finally arrived. Changed them without any problems and checked the float level. Night before I sprayed the float retainer pin with some WD-40 and it went out like nothing. By the way, you should have seen the junk on the mesh on the float needle seat. It looked alive! I don't even know how was I able to ride. And I mean ride without any problems on trips of 500+ kilometers.
I put the carbs provisionally on to be able to feed the fuel from the tank since I don't have any auxiliary tank and really hadn't had the time to make one. Turned it to PRI and left, no leaks anywhere. That might be a good sign (prior to changing the float needle and seat it would already leak) but I won't be sure until I start the engine and check what happens. And then it was dark so I couldn't do anything else since I'm doing this on the street in front of my apartment building. And I'm a bit of tourist attraction. Some Japanese guy came by to admire and talked how he is doing the same things. :wacko2:
And yes, I sewed a sock like thing to put on the petcock screen out of my 63 micron mesh. Will see how that works. Pictures will be posted later when I put all back on the bike, that's a priority.
Today's plan is to mount the carbs, change the oil and start the bike to check fuel levels in the bowls. If all goes well, change all the fuel and vacuum lines with new hoses and that's it! Fingers crossed! :i_am_so_happy:
OK, so I didn't expect all to go smoothly and it didn't. I put the carbs back on, only things I tampered with were floats, I adjusted them to the specs (raised them cca. 1 mm each) and I changed that one needle and seat. Same as the OEM.
And here are the problems. It starts great on full choke but when choke is lowered cca. half way it starts to misfire sometimes. Things get worse when I let it idle if it idles at all. When I open the throttle bike chokes until it dies. When I manage to rev it I see fuel mist coming out of carbs 1 and 2 (air box not installed). I thought it was rich and raised the floats 2 or 3 times for 1 mm, still the same. Now I am wondering why I even messed with the floats that were working properly. All floats were some 3 mm lower (i.e. richer) than they are set now.
Do you think I leaned it too much? My logic says I wouldn't see the fuel mist if the carbs were lean but I don't know much about carbs so my logic is probably wrong. Tomorrow I'll try to set them as they were. I couldn't get it to idle long enough to check the fuel levels. I checked it with engine turned off and tap on PRI. It looks fine.
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 02:14:27 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 24, 2015, 11:34:39 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 08:17:37 AM
I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....
Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings? You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.
Well... No.
So, if you replaced 1 float needle seat, what makes you think the other 3 o rings are not leaking?
A few things from my experience:
The airbus needs to be on for it run right
Fuel mist is normal...however with the airbox on you will not see it.
I generally replace all the needle and seat valves when cleaning the carbs...just to sure.
I have rebuilt four sets and the floats were always fine except on one set that had molested by someone with a bad Phillips screwdriver.
Have you synchronized the carbs since you reinstalled?
Jeff
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 01, 2015, 03:29:26 PM
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 02:14:27 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 24, 2015, 11:34:39 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 24, 2015, 08:17:37 AM
I hoped that is the problem, set all floats to 23 mm, but leaks still. So I ordered new float valve and seat to get rid of the problems.....
Did you Replace all of your float needle seat o rings? You need to, they dry out, loose their seals and leak.
Well... No.
So, if you replaced 1 float needle seat, what makes you think the other 3 o rings are not leaking?
Carbs are not flooding when I turn the tap on PRI. Fuel levels look fine and stay constant. That's why I'm think the rest are OK. Is my logic correct?
Quote from: jscgdunn on September 01, 2015, 03:42:05 PM
A few things from my experience:
The airbus needs to be on for it run right
Fuel mist is normal...however with the airbox on you will not see it.
I generally replace all the needle and seat valves when cleaning the carbs...just to sure.
I have rebuilt four sets and the floats were always fine except on one set that had molested by someone with a bad Phillips screwdriver.
Have you synchronized the carbs since you reinstalled?
Jeff
I thought it could be it so I put it on once, same thing. I haven't synched them, again my (wrong) logic told me that wouldn't be necessary since I didn't touch anything else than floats.
Thanks for trying guys. I'll try one or two more things today and if they don't work will try to synch them and eventualy change all float valves and seats because otherwise I'm going to freak out. :mad:
I tryed to lower the floats to get it richer. Somewhat better now but still with a bit of misfires and not a good throttle response. I found out today that the carb I changed the needle and seat in has lower fuel level than the other 3, with floats set the same.
So like Pat Conlon said in the first place I need to replace all 4 needles and seats because there is obviously some minor difference in the new one and the old ones. Made by Keyster (I think, not sure), Japan.
I did not say you have to replace the float needle seat assemblies ($$$) They are expensive.
Just take them out. Clean them. Look for abnormal needle tip wear. Clean the screens.
......and replace the O rings.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 02, 2015, 11:22:23 AM
I did not say you have to replace the float needle seat assemblies ($$$) They are expensive.
Just take them out. Clean them. Look for abnormal needle tip wear. Clean the screens.
......and replace the O rings.
One assembly for under 7€ from Germany. Not more expensive than my nerves.
Good price...go for it!
The float needle seat assemblies are ~ $18.50 ea. here in the states. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24)
Also to remember:
The float needle seat assemblies come in 2 flavors. The 2.3mm size for your gravity fed '85 and the smaller 1.5mm size for the later '89+ fuel pump bikes.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
Make sure you get the right size for your bike.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 02, 2015, 12:09:45 PM
Good price...go for it!
The float needle seat assemblies are ~ $18.50 ea. here in the states. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3AFloatValveG&cat=24)
Also to remember:
The float needle seat assemblies come in 2 flavors. The 2.3mm size for your gravity fed '85 and the smaller 1.5mm size for the later '89+ fuel pump bikes.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
Make sure you get the right size for your bike.
It is 2.3, that was first thing I checked.
Here's the link should anyone ever need something. http://www.biketeile-service.de/ (http://www.biketeile-service.de/) I don't know is the final price cheaper when it gets in the States, but for EU members it is good.
Aaaaand after all the trouble, my baby got back home. :yahoo:
Haven't read this whole thread but to be sure the gravity /vacuum operated petcock is shutting off.simply remove the fuel line let excess fuel purge out.and simply wait 10/15 mins and watch to see of you see dripping.if so it's bad.