Great day - hanging with fellow Fj'ers San Dimas Mike and Pat. Pat thanks for sharing you knowledge on the finer parts of the valve adjustment -- the initiation of Mike to the oil squit from the valve made Pat very happy..... while I avoided such fate. Thanks again to Pat for his special tip on the Yamabond usage -- I am sure of no leaks from the head gasket :).
We finished 3 bikes -- in record time ---- well -- truth be told it was our first time so it was our record time.... it may have taken the better part of the day but working on the bikes was the best part of the day. Any body crying yet...
My valves our very happy tonight.
Very nice Steve! Sounds like a great day indeed!
Derek
Quote from: moparman70 on July 27, 2014, 11:08:47 PM
...Thanks again to Pat for his special tip on the Yamabond usage -- I am sure of no leaks from the head gasket :).
Awww shit, and you were doing so well....
Yamabond on valve cover gaskets eh?
Did you remember to do both sides of the gasket like Randy taught me? :good:
Sounds like great fun. Is anybody willing to share the tip using Yamabond. Inquiring minds want to know.
Kurt
Inside joke on the Yamabond ---- guess I blew it -- yes valve cover gasket --- and for the record NO yamabond was used on the gasket.....we do like to keep Randy happy.
Side note -- thanks also to San Dimas Mike for coming down and bring the kit -- and special thanks to Skymasters for putting the kit together. I will be sending up some shims to restock the missing areas --- there were No 260s and 265s are low.
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 28, 2014, 07:43:26 AM
Sounds like great fun. Is anybody willing to share the tip using Yamabond. Inquiring minds want to know.
Kurt
I use Permatex RTV which I believe is the same thing. It is actually gasket
maker, you can lay a bead of the stuff, very lightly tighten. let dry and then fully tighten and you have a gasket. My valve cover gasket is the original and has been off many times. With this stuff it almost doesn't matter what condition it's in, broken, rock hard, chunks missing etc, RTV will make it all better. Obviously a new gasket is better if you have one, but I can see mine lasting for years yet. Same goes for the grommet washers on top, and the perished carby rubbers and.............
In fact, one of the members here is happily riding around with an inch missing from an engine gasket (that couldn't be sourced in time) using this stuff. Bloody marvelous.
Best of all, if you need to pull it apart in the future, it just peels off with your fingers, NO scraping required.
The only valve cover gaskets I have thrown out are ones that have had hard setting cement used on them.
Noel
I thought Yamabond was what we were doing after a combination, of O'Doul's, Coors, and Screwdrivers. Let's adjust Pat's valves real good next week! :wacko2:
Thanks Skymasters! PM me with instructions for the kit. It's in San Dimas now.
Mike
Quote from: Mike 86 in San Dimas on July 29, 2014, 09:55:01 PM
I thought Yamabond was what we were doing after a combination, of O'Doul's, Coors, and Screwdrivers. Let's adjust Pat's valves real good next week! :wacko2:
Thanks Skymasters! PM me with instructions for the kit. It's in San Dimas now.
Mike
Mike, lets plan a ride and you can return the kit to me. I am closer to Mike so the location is easier for him to pick up. Plus, I may be the the only FJowner willing to ride with him right now so I can return the kit next time we ride. The digital calipers are mine. I might just add it to the Mike's kit.
Message to Mike: I think I know you better than the rest of this group, we have ridden many times (crashes and not) and had "Man shed days" I will ride with you without hesitation. I think I am free this Sunday...
Digital calipers? Steve, you remember seeing any? Hmm I may be able to make Sunday too. Is Mike S and his bike ridable? Hope so. I enjoy Mikes company too, look forward to riding with him again. Too many easy pokes available, lets live and learn. I have. Ok continuing to learn.
At WCR this year I had the pleasure of meeting Mike, I don't know of anybody that after meeting Mike, who did not like him. Correction, except for one but he was not an FJ owner or forum member. He was a strange dude, kept doing some type of imitation of a chicken. Even when dealing with odd bird, I am sure Mike was polite and courteous. To anyone reading this, when you meet him you will feel the same as the rest of us. Mike I will ride with you anytime, just not too close.
Kurt
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 30, 2014, 12:46:31 AM
At WCR this year I had the pleasure of meeting Mike, I don't know of anybody that after meeting Mike, who did not like him. Correction, except for one but he was not an FJ owner or forum member. He was a strange dude, kept doing some type of imitation of a chicken. Even when dealing with odd bird, I am sure Mike was polite and courteous. To anyone reading this, when you meet him you will feel the same as the rest of us. Mike I will ride with you anytime, just not too close.
Kurt
Kurt, well said. I agree 100% with your assessment of Mike. He's definatly a great person, and without a doubt a talented rider too.
But ... not too close, please. And actually that pretty much goes around everywhere. We're not all Jorge Lorenzo or Valentino Rossi, and we're not getting paid (well or otherwise) to ride in close proximity, so I really prefer to not do it, thanks!
I guess I missed the chicken imitator, which sounds like may have been just as well.
[
[/quote] I will ride with you without hesitation
+1...Ill just keep ya behind me...that shouldn't be a problem :empathy3:
Scott
Quote from: Mike 86 in San Dimas on July 29, 2014, 10:32:05 PM
Digital calipers? Steve, you remember seeing any? Hmm I may be able to make Sunday too. Is Mike S and his bike ridable? Hope so. I enjoy Mikes company too, look forward to riding with him again. Too many easy pokes available, lets live and learn. I have. Ok continuing to learn.
Monkeyman meant the digital micrometer -- which was very cool to have at the ready. I have an Analog vernier caliper just in case but the job would have taken 3x as long if I had to read it --- my eyes are fading to see the lines.
Mark -- I will send you some shims then so you can replace/add some to the kit so we have all the sizes.
God... I hate to explain jokes. "Monkeyman meant the digital micrometer"... sheesh.
I order a shim from Randy (along with a few other not so sexy items) today. Realize I will need the "special tool" to put the shim in. May need to hoard the kit a little longer. Maybe if it gets here on time I can wrap it up on Saturday. BTW contacted Randy (RPM) today and my order was boxed and sent same day. wow!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 28, 2014, 12:58:15 AM
Awww shit, and you were doing so well....
Yamabond on valve cover gaskets eh?
Did you remember to do both sides of the gasket like Randy taught me? :good:
Here is some examples of a valve cover install incorrectly...
I wonder...Is this Pat's Yamabond handy work here... :scratch_one-s_head:
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover007_zps9181d796.jpg~original)[/URL]
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover006_zpsde435e1c.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover006_zpsde435e1c.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover005_zps12bfcb73.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover005_zps12bfcb73.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover002_zps7524c8b9.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover002_zps7524c8b9.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover001_zps3b9fd9da.jpg~original) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover001_zps3b9fd9da.jpg.html)
Randy - RPM
:bad: :bad: :bad: :bad:
Quote from: Mike 86 in San Dimas on July 30, 2014, 10:05:15 PM
God... I hate to explain jokes. "Monkeyman meant the digital micrometer"... sheesh.
I order a shim from Randy (along with a few other not so sexy items) today. Realize I will need the "special tool" to put the shim in. May need to hoard the kit a little longer. Maybe if it gets here on time I can wrap it up on Saturday. BTW contacted Randy (RPM) today and my order was boxed and sent same day. wow!
Hey Mike!
You may recall that I have the shim bucket hold-down tool...anytime you need it, just swing on by! :good2: Just got my final 2.60mm shim from Randy today...I might just be riding this weekend!!! :yahoo:
I also have the "Hold Down" tool.... And it won't squirt oil....
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 30, 2014, 10:37:50 PM
Here is some examples of a valve cover install incorrectly...
I wonder...Is this Pat's Yamabond handy work here... :scratch_one-s_head:
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover007_zps9181d796.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover006_zpsde435e1c.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover006_zpsde435e1c.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover005_zps12bfcb73.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover005_zps12bfcb73.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover002_zps7524c8b9.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover002_zps7524c8b9.jpg.html)
(http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc517/racerrad8/CraigValveCover001_zps3b9fd9da.jpg) (http://s1215.photobucket.com/user/racerrad8/media/CraigValveCover001_zps3b9fd9da.jpg.html)
Randy - RPM
Nope, it's not mine....judging by the cap on the #1 intake vacuum port, that is a fuel pump model FJ
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 31, 2014, 01:36:41 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 30, 2014, 10:37:50 PM
I wonder...Is this Pat's Yamabond handy work here... :scratch_one-s_head:
Randy - RPM
Nope, it's not mine....judging by the cap on the #1 intake vacuum port, that is a fuel pump model FJ
Pat, you are correct, but since I cant find the pictures of yours that I took, I figured the valve cover from Zari's bike would do. Craig did not do that handy work the P/O or mechanic did that mess.
Guys, once again there is no sealer required for the valve cover gasket. Some people like to put a dab of sealant int he corner of the half rounds, but not place else is it required.
If you are going to use a sealer on your engine, it really should be Permatex Ultra Black silicone...stay away from the Yamahabond as it doesn't work that well and Yamaha did not use that to build the engine in the first place.
Randy - RPM
Yamabond is made for gluing engine cases together. Yamaha does not make gaskets for this, that is what Yamabond is for. If there is a gasket for it use that.
Kurt
Pat wanted to get a rise out of you Randy --- I think you got the message...... and so did Pat as that is all we did was put a little in the corners of the half-rounds.
Vroooom Vroooom
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 31, 2014, 07:24:20 PM
Yamabond is made for gluing engine cases together. Yamaha does not make gaskets for this, that is what Yamabond is for. If there is a gasket for it use that.
Kurt
That is what Yamaha tells you to use in the manual to seal the cases, but I am confident that is not what they used at the factory.
All of the Yamabond I have ever seen is grey; every factory built engine I have torn down over the last 20 years has never had a grey sealant, it is always black.
Yamabond dries non pliable; hard and is very difficult to remove. The factory built engines use a material that stays pliable.
As mentioned in several previous posts, I only use
Permatex Ultra Black (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail)
Here is quote from Noel and why he uses it;
Quote from: ribbert on May 06, 2014, 07:03:21 PM
I've probably had as many engines (all sorts) apart as Randy and over a much more diverse range of applications and I swear by this stuff. Like Randy I have tried and seen used all manner of products but this is the best. Also great if you need pull it apart again at some point.
Use sparingly.
Noel
Yamabond is a pain to work with, it is the wrong color for the black FJ cases and not the best choice for sealing the cases back together if you ever have them apart. I did use some on the first couple of engines 20 years ago and quickly threw it in to the trash can.
Randy - RPM
BTW Steve...after the scolding, for the second time I believe, about using sealant on the valve cover gasket, I hope Pat's has it figured out because I really hate yelling at my elders... :rofl:
Well thanks for all the votes of confidance and kind words guys. I really appreciate it. I haven't welded the fairing I back together (there are a LOT of pieces) and with the air scoop missing on the left the engine darn near overheads when riding. So I'm stuck on the 91.
I'm curious though, are you guys trying to use two hold down tools at a time? Because there's one in the shim kit.
Quote from: skymasteres on August 01, 2014, 12:00:53 PM
Well thanks for all the votes of confidance and kind words guys. I really appreciate it. I haven't welded the fairing I back together (there are a LOT of pieces) and with the air scoop missing on the left the engine darn near overheads when riding. So I'm stuck on the 91.
I'm curious though, are you guys trying to use two hold down tools at a time? Because there's one in the shim kit.
Hey Mike!
Thank you SO much for putting your shim kit together and letting the SoCal brothers utilize it. In my case, I did the shim-shuffle, but was one shim short. Your kit moved on to the man-shed day in Oceanside while I ordered the final shim from Randy. I have a hold-down tool of my own, so that made things easier when it showed up! :good2:
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 01, 2014, 10:49:06 AM
BTW Steve...after the scolding, for the second time I believe, about using sealant on the valve cover gasket, I hope Pat's has it figured out because I really hate yelling at my elders... :rofl:
Sometime's yelling at your elders is the only way to get them to listen ....(according to SWMBO)
Actually in all fairness to your elder, he did use the Ultra Black goop and only on one side of the gasket and only as a last resort...
Randy, remember what this guy was going through with that confounded oil leak. Who would have thought it was coming from the base gasket, traveling up the cylinder block and dripping out in the middle of the cylinder block.....
I think he should get a pass, due to extenuating circumstances.....but that's just me..... Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 01, 2014, 03:51:39 PM
I think he should get a pass, due to extenuating circumstances.....but that's just me..... Pat :flag_of_truce:
Already passed, I was just stirring the pot since I could see the basis of the original poster...
Plus, you were subsequently trained after your last "sealing" attempt by a highly skilled sole who has adjusted maybe 1,000,000 (or at the least a whole bunch over all those years) of those FJ valves :empathy2:
Randy -RPM
Yes I was, trained by the best......and I passed that training on to Mike and Steve....
That little nugget you taught me with turning the flat blade screwdriver sideways, holding the bucket down while you repositioned the tool, was worth the price of admission....Very cool indeed.
Thank you Randy :hi:
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 01, 2014, 10:49:06 AM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 31, 2014, 07:24:20 PM
Yamabond is made for gluing engine cases together. Yamaha does not make gaskets for this, that is what Yamabond is for. If there is a gasket for it use that.
Kurt
That is what Yamaha tells you to use in the manual to seal the cases, but I am confident that is not what they used at the factory.
All of the Yamabond I have ever seen is grey; every factory built engine I have torn down over the last 20 years has never had a grey sealant, it is always black.
Yamabond dries non pliable; hard and is very difficult to remove. The factory built engines use a material that stays pliable.
As mentioned in several previous posts, I only use Permatex Ultra Black (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail)
Here is quote from Noel and why he uses it;
Quote from: ribbert on May 06, 2014, 07:03:21 PM
I've probably had as many engines (all sorts) apart as Randy and over a much more diverse range of applications and I swear by this stuff. Like Randy I have tried and seen used all manner of products but this is the best. Also great if you need pull it apart again at some point.
Use sparingly.
Noel
Yamabond is a pain to work with, it is the wrong color for the black FJ cases and not the best choice for sealing the cases back together if you ever have them apart. I did use some on the first couple of engines 20 years ago and quickly threw it in to the trash can.
Randy - RPM
That would not surprise me one bit. Just another case of do as I say not as I do.
Kurt
Well...got the shim kit just before last weekend and spent the day on Monday sweating my azz off in my garage playing with valve shims. Got frustrated with just two...and decided before I did something stupid...I'd let it rest until I had time this weekend.
Got all my intakes at .005" ( spec clearance .0043-.0059) and all my exhaust at .007" ( spec clearance .0063-.0079) except for two. Where a 265 shim gives me a strong .008" and a 270 gives me a tight .006".
Going to run by my local dealer (closed for riding Mondays) and see if I can swap 2 shims for 268's.
Then I can get the shim kit back where it belongs!
Almost there!
Run your exhaust at 0.008" and don't worry. They'll take a bit longer to tighten up that way.
My 2¢
Did you change the shims and then measure?
If so, then you are going to be messed up...
You cannot change shims and then measure due to the oil that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed.
For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.
And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: mikefootusa on August 03, 2014, 11:33:20 AM
Well...got the shim kit just before last weekend and spent the day on Monday sweating my azz off in my garage playing with valve shims. Got frustrated with just two...and decided before I did something stupid...I'd let it rest until I had time this weekend.
Got all my intakes at .005" ( spec clearance .0043-.0059) and all my exhaust at .007" ( spec clearance .0063-.0079) except for two. Where a 265 shim gives me a strong .008" and a 270 gives me a tight .006".
Going to run by my local dealer (closed for riding Mondays) and see if I can swap 2 shims for 268's.
Then I can get the shim kit back where it belongs!
Almost there!
Yamaha doesn't offer 268 shims. Honda does or did, either way you should be able to get one.
Kurt
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 03, 2014, 01:08:30 PM
Did you change the shims and then measure?
If so, then you are going to be messed up...
You cannot change shims and then measure due to the oil that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed.
For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.
And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.
Randy - RPM
Randy good advise. Do you think that the oil could be wiped out of the bucket with a shop or paper towel to get a correct reading?
Kurt
I thought just turning the crank a few revolutions and then remeasuring would be sufficient...so what you are suggesting is putting the valve cover back on...running it up to temp...cooling it to cold and remeasuring?
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on August 03, 2014, 01:16:00 PM
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 03, 2014, 01:08:30 PM
Did you change the shims and then measure?
If so, then you are going to be messed up...
You cannot change shims and then measure due to the *lack of oil* that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed....IOW, the new shims are dry.
For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.
And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.
Randy - RPM
Randy good advise. Do you think that the oil could be wiped out of the bucket with a shop or paper towel to get a correct reading?
Kurt
Kurt, I modified Randy's statement to be more clear. You need the film of oil on the shims to get the correct clearance measurements.....when you put the new shims in they are dry and lack this oil film.
If you measure the clearances after you put the dry shims in, you will get incorrect clearance measurements.
Mike, yes, If you want to measure again (you really don't need to) you need to run the engine to get the oil film back on the new shims before you measure.
Measure once, measure twice, then remove/replace the shims per the tables.....once you replace the shims, don't bother measuring again until you run the engine....you will drive your self crazy.
Some shim information:
I also believe that Toyota 1984-2002 MR 2 shims will work. I am out of town at the moment, when I get back I can post the part numbers and sizes. They are the same size thickness's as from Yamaha (255,260,265,270 etc.). I am on real thin ice here but was told the head was designed by Yamaha. Just information if someone needed a shim and a Toyota dealer is close by. I can post the part numbers and corresponding sizes when I get back. Again from memory I think they are available from 3.20-2.50.
The information is from a local FJ rider and I have not actually run down and bought a shim to compare but the measurements I do have are the same.
George
Thanx for all the advice...I am sure that Honda 25mm shims and the Toyota shims are all the same...however...Honda is their infinite wisdom also made "1/2" sizes as well. There were 2 instances where I used 272's from my Honda stash of 48 shims...however I did not have any 268's.
I think, thought, I was pretty clear....
I'm not sure the oil film on the top of the shim matters, but the "pool of oil" that populates the bucket after the shim is removed does. The oil then gives erroneous readings until it is brought to temp as the oil is trapped between the shim & bucket after the shim has been reinstalled makes the readings too tight.
If you recall, i think Steve talked about the oil squirt when the shim snaps back in...
The engine must be run to temp to get the oil out.
I have found in my experience the rotation of the cams a few times by hand will not displace the oil completely.
Randy -RPM
Ok, thanks Randy...I think I understood it backwards. There is too much oil.. ( not that the new shims are dry)
IOW if you were to take measurements after you installed the new shims, before you ran the engine, you would find that the measurements would be too tight...because of the oil pooled behind the new shim....
After you run the engine, the oil is distributed and the measurements on the new shims loosen up.
Thanks for the advise and your willingness to share it, Randy and Pat. This is information that is not available anywhere else.
Kurt
Finished up my Valve adjustment. Got the 260 shim in # 2 exhaust that we lacked last week. New valve cover bolt grommets installed. Threw away the half empty tube of Yamabond Pat gave me. Installed new speedo cable, (it jumped ship on the way to last weeks valve fest) repaired inner fairing panel, yanked out the factory air box, installed Unipods and finally safety wired my pet cock, I mean petcock... big difference there. Almost forgot,replaced the temporary screw I had holding the choke cable in place on carburetor thingy, with the proper screw that LA Mike gave me at the 2013 Rally...what's the rush? It was amazing that he had a spare with him.
Need to get the kit over to Mark so he can hand off to Mike Skymasters, maybe next week end? Hope Mark finds his micro calipers. :lol: Hey did someone get my 2014 Rally Tee?
Thanks to Skymaster, Mark, Ron, Steve, Pat and Randy. What a team! :drinks:
The new shims arrived, thanks to all. Sorry I could not attend and document the fun...
I installed the final shim (2.60mm) in the #4 intake valve and have the removed 2.65mm to donate to the kit. I'm now just repairing an inner fairing tab with G-Flex epoxy and I should be back riding tomorrow! I NEED some throttle therapy!!! :good2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 03, 2014, 05:42:52 PM
Ok, thanks Randy...I think I understood it backwards. There is too much oil.. ( not that the new shims are dry)
IOW if you were to take measurements after you installed the new shims, before you ran the engine, you would find that the measurements would be too tight...because of the oil pooled behind the new shim....
After you run the engine, the oil is distributed and the measurements on the new shims loosen up.
That is why I needed the half size...because after replacing with the next size down...it was too loose....008"+. Found a pair of 268's on eBay for $9.95...coming Monday.
Quote from: simi_ed on August 03, 2014, 12:14:45 PM
Run your exhaust at 0.008" and don't worry. They'll take a bit longer to tighten up that way.
My 2¢
+1
Good that you are getting them dead on but you are only talking .001 ! On the loose side. IMO, not a problem. I have a 4 or 5 at .006 and they close just fine. But it is an old well broken in valve train. Been that way for about 3 years. Probably heresy, but I think to many people want to "blueprint" the spec's.. IMO if you are in range then you are good, but if you have to adjust go to the loose side especially on the exhaust side, never notice .001 looser in street performance.
Just a question that Randy probably can only answer. On the oil under the shim, approximately what difference are we talking about on the average ? Just curious. .002, .001. .0005 tighter ? Next time I change a shim I will try to measure it.
Please don't miss understand me Mike, you are doing a great job going that extra step :good2: I am just throwing a thoughts out.
George
Quote from: movenon on August 09, 2014, 11:26:06 AM
Just a question that Randy probably can only answer. On the oil under the shim, approximately what difference are we talking about on the average ? Just curious. .002, .001. .0005 tighter ? Next time I change a shim I will try to measure it.
George
Well, I guess I can use of of Pat's saying here...
"how much does a bag of groceries cost..."But I digress, there are just too many factors to be able to put an accurate number on the thickness added by the trapped oil.
You have...
the actual viscosity of the oil
the life span of the oil; new or at 3000 miles
the ambient temperature that will affect the viscosity as well as the expansion/contraction rate of the metal parts of the engine.
I honestly have never taken the time to study the difference of the displacement because of all of the above factors.
When a bike/car/engine come in, I make sure the engine has not been run or properly cooled down. I check them, document the lash numbers, I remove the shims and use the chart to install the proper shim. That is the best way to measure & adjust the valves.
There is a reason that Yamaha provided a "range" of adjustment and only offer "0 & 5" rated shims, because you can get into the range using just those shims and "2 & 8" (or half sizes) are not required. I always adjust to the larger side of the "range". The reason for this is the fact the valves almost always do not get looser because there are no rocker arms, push rods or lifters to wear out.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy. I know the variables. I was just wondering if there was a ball park figure since it was brought up. I adjust the valves as you do. I was just trying to say you don't have to be dead on the number especially on the loose side. If .007 is the target the .008 is just as good as .006 IMO.
Talk about variables at .001 inch. Feeler gauge accuracy (the gauge it's self), my "feel" and someone elses "feel" could be off as much as .001 then throw in oil on the blade, technically the spec of .007 is at one specific temp not just stone cold. If I adjust my valves during the winter then I better readjust for the summer :).. I am getting nervous now :lol: It gets pretty anal after a while. About like 2.7 ohms at exactly at 68 degrees.
Just throwing crap, have a good week. It nice to hear from all that are maintaining, fixing, modding and restoring there FJ's.
George
Is it gage or gauge. Another dilemma. Think I will have a gage of beer.