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Valves with Brothers

Started by moparman70, July 27, 2014, 11:08:47 PM

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simi_ed

Run your exhaust at 0.008" and don't worry.  They'll take a bit longer to tighten up that way.

My 2ยข
-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

racerrad8

Did you change the shims and then measure?

If so, then you are going to be messed up...

You cannot change shims and then measure due to the oil that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed.

For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.

And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

yamaha fj rider

Quote from: mikefootusa on August 03, 2014, 11:33:20 AM
Well...got the shim kit just before last weekend and spent the day on Monday sweating my azz off in my garage playing with valve shims.  Got frustrated with just two...and decided before I did something stupid...I'd let it rest until I had time this weekend.

Got all my intakes at .005" ( spec clearance .0043-.0059) and all my exhaust at .007" ( spec clearance .0063-.0079) except for two.  Where a 265 shim gives me a strong .008" and a 270 gives me a tight .006".

Going to run by my local dealer (closed for riding Mondays) and see if I can swap 2 shims for 268's.
Then I can get the shim kit back where it belongs!

Almost there!
Yamaha doesn't offer 268 shims. Honda does or did, either way you should be able to get one.

Kurt  
93 FJ1200
FJ 09
YZ250X I still love 2 strokes
Tenere 700
FJR1300ES

yamaha fj rider

Quote from: racerrad8 on August 03, 2014, 01:08:30 PM
Did you change the shims and then measure?

If so, then you are going to be messed up...

You cannot change shims and then measure due to the oil that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed.

For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.

And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.

Randy - RPM
Randy good advise. Do you think that the oil could be wiped out of the bucket with a shop or paper towel to get a correct reading?

Kurt
93 FJ1200
FJ 09
YZ250X I still love 2 strokes
Tenere 700
FJR1300ES

mikefootusa

I thought just turning the crank a few revolutions and then remeasuring would be sufficient...so what you are suggesting is putting the valve cover back on...running it up to temp...cooling it to cold and remeasuring?
Wrenching is a necessity...but the ridin' is worth it!

Pat Conlon

Quote from: yamaha fj rider on August 03, 2014, 01:16:00 PM
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 03, 2014, 01:08:30 PM
Did you change the shims and then measure?

If so, then you are going to be messed up...

You cannot change shims and then measure due to the *lack of oil* that gets between the shim and bucket when the shim is removed....IOW, the new shims are dry.

For true readings, run the engine to operating temps and then allow to cool again. The oil will thin with the heat and be pressed out from between the shim & bucket.

And, always set to the high side if the range and the lash only gets tighter.

Randy - RPM
Randy good advise. Do you think that the oil could be wiped out of the bucket with a shop or paper towel to get a correct reading?

Kurt

Kurt, I modified Randy's statement to be more clear. You need the film of oil on the shims to get the correct clearance measurements.....when you put the new shims in they are dry and lack this oil film.
If you measure the clearances after you put the dry shims in, you will get incorrect clearance measurements.

Mike, yes, If you want to measure again (you really don't need to) you need to run the engine to get the oil film back on the new shims before you measure.
Measure once, measure twice, then remove/replace the shims per the tables.....once you replace the shims, don't bother measuring again until you run the engine....you will drive your self crazy.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

movenon

Some shim information:

I also believe that Toyota 1984-2002 MR 2 shims will work.  I am out of town at the moment, when I get back I can post the part numbers and sizes.  They are the same size thickness's as from Yamaha (255,260,265,270 etc.).  I am on real thin ice here but was told the head was designed by Yamaha.  Just information if someone needed a shim and a Toyota dealer is close by.  I can post the part numbers and corresponding sizes when I get back.  Again from memory I think they are available from 3.20-2.50.

The information is from a local FJ rider and I have not actually run down and bought a shim to compare but the measurements I do have are the same.

George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

mikefootusa

Thanx for all the advice...I am sure that Honda 25mm shims and the Toyota shims are all the same...however...Honda is their infinite wisdom also made "1/2"  sizes as well.  There were 2 instances where I used 272's from my Honda stash of 48 shims...however I did not have any 268's.
Wrenching is a necessity...but the ridin' is worth it!

racerrad8


I think, thought, I was pretty clear....

I'm not sure the oil film on the top of the shim matters, but the "pool of oil" that populates the bucket after the shim is removed does. The oil then gives erroneous readings until it is brought to temp as the oil is trapped between the shim & bucket after the shim has been reinstalled makes the readings too tight.

If you recall, i think Steve talked about the oil squirt when the shim snaps back in...

The engine must be run to temp to get the oil out.

I have found in my experience the rotation of the cams a few times by hand will not displace the oil completely.

Randy -RPM
Randy - RPM

Pat Conlon

Ok, thanks Randy...I think I understood it backwards. There is too much oil.. ( not that the new shims are dry)

IOW if you were to take measurements after you installed the new shims, before you ran the engine, you would find that the measurements would be too tight...because of the oil pooled behind the new shim....

After you run the engine, the oil is distributed and the measurements on the new shims loosen up.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

yamaha fj rider

Thanks for the advise and your willingness to share it, Randy and Pat. This is information that is not available anywhere else.

Kurt
93 FJ1200
FJ 09
YZ250X I still love 2 strokes
Tenere 700
FJR1300ES

Mike 86 in San Dimas

Finished up my Valve adjustment. Got the 260 shim in # 2 exhaust that we lacked last week. New valve cover bolt grommets installed. Threw away the half empty tube of Yamabond Pat gave me. Installed new speedo cable, (it jumped ship on the way to last weeks valve fest) repaired inner fairing panel, yanked out the factory air box, installed Unipods and finally safety wired my pet cock, I mean petcock... big difference there. Almost forgot,replaced the temporary screw I had holding the choke cable in place on carburetor thingy, with the proper screw that LA Mike gave me at the 2013 Rally...what's the rush? It was amazing that he had a spare with him.
Need to get the kit over to Mark so he can hand off to Mike Skymasters, maybe next week end? Hope Mark finds his micro calipers.  :lol: Hey did someone get my 2014 Rally Tee?
Thanks to Skymaster, Mark, Ron, Steve, Pat and Randy. What a team! :drinks:

FJmonkey

The new shims arrived, thanks to all. Sorry I could not attend and document the fun...
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Capn Ron

I installed the final shim (2.60mm) in the #4 intake valve and have the removed 2.65mm to donate to the kit.  I'm now just repairing an inner fairing tab with G-Flex epoxy and I should be back riding tomorrow!  I NEED some throttle therapy!!!   :good2:
Cap'n Ron. . .


There are two types of people in the world...Those who put people into categories...and those who don't.

mikefootusa

Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 03, 2014, 05:42:52 PM
Ok, thanks Randy...I think I understood it backwards. There is too much oil.. ( not that the new shims are dry)

IOW if you were to take measurements after you installed the new shims, before you ran the engine, you would find that the measurements would be too tight...because of the oil pooled behind the new shim....

After you run the engine, the oil is distributed and the measurements on the new shims loosen up.

That is why I needed the half size...because after replacing with the next size down...it was too loose....008"+.  Found a pair of 268's on eBay for $9.95...coming Monday.
Wrenching is a necessity...but the ridin' is worth it!