Hello all
Is it true that if you tighten a bunch of zip ties around a tyre you can get it onto the rim and then cut the ties and pull them out.
Thanks Chiz
Quote from: chiz on April 07, 2014, 06:19:19 PM
Hello all
Is it true that if you tighten a bunch of zip ties around a tyre you can get it onto the rim and then cut the ties and pull them out.
Thanks Chiz
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3302_11_10_13_6_11_20.jpeg)
Yep
:good2: A little baby shampoo also helps it has some nice slick crap in it. Harbor Freight has the 24 inch ties for around 2.00.
George
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_19_02_13_3_40_32.jpeg)
My next thing to figure out to do myself; I just spent $100 to get two tires mounted today....seems outrageous.
Jeff
I have done 3 sets myself and helped Mike (Skymasterers) do his last set. The $40 tire balance stand from HF works well, don't for get to pick up tire weights while you are in there.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2014, 08:02:41 PM
I have done 3 sets myself and helped Mike (Skymasterers) do his last set. The $40 tire balance stand from HF works well, don't for get to pick up tire weights while you are in there.
No so fast my simian hombre, tell us what you learned about taking the old tire off?
Any tips you care to share? :biggrin:
Seriously....I thought that a Saws-All would be a marvelous idea....?
Most of the time I have been able to break the bead loose by putting on moto boots and steeping on the edge of the tire. If that dose not work then use a bottle jack on the tire pressing against car or truck to break the bead. With the old style bumper jack (think 70s) we have been able to break down atv tires in the field. Hope this helps.
Important tire must be deflated first. :rofl:
Kurt
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 07, 2014, 08:09:05 PM
No so fast my simian hombre, tell us what you learned about taking the old tire off?
Any tips you care to share? :biggrin:
Seriously....I thought that a Saws-All would be a marvelous idea....?
To break the bead I put two 2x4x20 on the ground near my trucks trailer hitch. The wheel rests on the 2x4s to keep it off the ground. Then I take another 2x4 about 5 feet long (the lever) and a shorter 2x4 about 12 to 15 inches long (The bead breaker). The short 2x4 is angle cut at about 45 degrees, this end goes at the bead. The 5 footer goes under the bottom of the hitch and over the flat end of the bead breaker. Then with downward pressure the leverage forces the bead to break loose. Work all around the tire, flip and do it again.
Now to get that pesky worn out tire off the wheel. I first used a reciprocating saw (a Saws-All like tool). That was a pain to do solo. Then I remembered another tool I had not even opened, a high frequency multi-tool.
Like this:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41kuJW--8LL._AA160_.jpg)
I used the smooth blade attachment and cut through the side wall like it was butter. Once both side walls are cut through the bulk of the carcase falls off. Then with your (gloved) hands you can pull the two bead portions off. I turn in the old tire(s) at my local household waste collection facility (about once a year).
I figure I am saving about $40 to $50 each set by doing my own mount and balance.
Wouldn't you not recommend doing that again? Getting the beaded remains out was a huge pain, no? Would it have been easier to cut the tire and half, giving you more to grip?
Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 10:50:26 PM
Wouldn't you not recommend doing that again? Getting the beaded remains out was a huge pain, no? Would it have been easier to cut the tire and half, giving you more to grip?
Cutting with a saw blade with teeth made the job harder. With the bead off the rim the tire wants to follow the blade (up and down), no cutting. The ultra-sonic tool with a blade, was smooth and quick. Do not attempt to cut through radial tires in the tread area if you value your blade. Once the beads were just rings they came off easy.
Radial tires should be easier than cross-ply, as they are intentionally thinner by design (no overlapping plys). But yeah, good point, any motorcycle tire will be very, very thick in the center... And metal? Yeah, blanked on that last post, purely theoretical thinking.
Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 11:04:31 PM
Radial tires should be easier than cross-ply, as they are intentionally thinner by design (no overlapping plys). But yeah, good point, any motorcycle tire will be very, very thick in the center... And metal? Yeah, blanked on that last post, purely theoretical thinking.
For most with worn tires, the center is the thinnest.... But the side wall is fiber and cuts easy with the right tool. Maybe I will test cut the tread when I put my new rear on in the next month, over 8K and my Conti Motion is used up. Many happy miles on that tire....
I could be wrong, but I feel pretty sure that most motorcycle tires have so many layers in the middle that even when the tread is bald, it's still far thicker than the sidewall. The mechanic I worked for once mentioned something that put that idea in my head, can't remember exactly what, but something about tires being way thicker than most people realize.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2014, 09:45:22 PM
I figure I am saving about $40 to $50 each set by doing my own mount and balance.
Although I don't use the zip tie method, I am now mounting and balancing all my own tires. In addition to the $20-$25 per tire saved, I see many benefits:
- I get to fiddle with my OWN tires and get the confidence knowing that it was done right
- I can balance the wheel alone to find and mark the true heavy spot
- I KNOW the dot on the tire is lined up with this spot for the minimal amount of added weights to balance
- I can do my own balancing. The first two dealer balanced examples I checked were WAY off (needed five 1/4 oz weights, they used TWO)
- I get to properly clean the wheel while the tire is off...found all sorts of crud in there from mountings over the years
- I don't have to drive to the dealer, drop them off...drive home...wait...drive back to the dealer...drive home, just to pay dealer prices
- I can change tire types just because I feel like it. The convenience means that I might mount up the Metzelers for a mega trip...or put the Pirellis back on for the mountain roads around the house.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 11:20:33 PM
I could be wrong, but I feel pretty sure that most motorcycle tires have so many layers in the middle that even when the tread is bald, it's still far thicker than the sidewall. The mechanic I worked for once mentioned something that put that idea in my head, can't remember exactly what, but something about tires being way thicker than most people realize.
Having a few self changed sets in my tool belt, I can say a well worn rear has the thinnest part in the middle. The side wall seems to get very little wear, the tread, a bit more... I endeavor to wear off the sides even more than I do now. I paid for the entire F$%# tire, I want to use it all up before I am done with it.
Whether the tire is thicker or thinner @center is irrelevant when "The Man" cites you for bald tires. "Wear bars = done" in my book.
YMMV (sorry I couldn't resist)
Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 11:20:33 PM
I could be wrong, but I feel pretty sure that most motorcycle tires have so many layers in the middle that even when the tread is bald, it's still far thicker than the sidewall. The mechanic I worked for once mentioned something that put that idea in my head, can't remember exactly what, but something about tires being way thicker than most people realize.
Kyle, whatever it was that you can't remember that the mechanic told you, is wrong.
A bald tyre is scarily thin in the centre, unless it's a tractor tyre.
Noel
Tires wear out that is why we replace them. That is why they have tread wear indicators, so you know when it is time to replace them, if not sooner. New tires are cheaper than falling down.
Kurt
I wasn't suggesting one keep riding them, guys. Bald = bad idea to ride. I was purely commenting on whether it would be wiser to cut it in half at the center or on the sidewall. :good:
Sorry, I think I mistook your intentions. Never mind ...
You can use an 8 inch C-Clamp and a few scraps of wood (to protect the rim) to break the bead.
A simple utility knife will cut through the sidewalls. Once you get the cut started spread the cut with your (gloved) fingers and it will slice easily.
Sorry I also misunderstood what you were saying and yes most tires are belted. So thicker in center.
Kurt
Have none of you guys ever heard of tire irons?
I've changed several motorcycle tires and never had to resort to cutting them off.
I put them on the same way!
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 08, 2014, 12:56:14 PM
Have none of you guys ever heard of tire irons?
I've changed several motorcycle tires and never had to resort to cutting them off.
I put them on the same way!
Leon
Thats no fun...
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 08, 2014, 12:56:14 PM
Have none of you guys ever heard of tire irons?
I've changed several motorcycle tires and never had to resort to cutting them off.
I put them on the same way!
Leon
You know how the engineer types are..... :empathy2:..... They don't get to play with power tools very often, they have to make a reason to use one. :sarcastic: :rofl2:
Fred
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 08, 2014, 09:43:49 AM
Tires wear out that is why we replace them. That is why they have tread wear indicators, so you know when it is time to replace them, if not sooner. New tires are cheaper than falling down.
Kurt
These 'indicators' you speak of... are they the wire things sticking out on the side?
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg.html)
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 08, 2014, 12:56:14 PM
Have none of you guys ever heard of tire irons?
I've changed several motorcycle tires and never had to resort to cutting them off.
I put them on the same way!
Leon
+1
Holy C
I come back a day later and there is two pages of stuff to read very interesting thanks for all the info.... Going to pick up my forks shock calipers masters etc on Thursday and start to put the beast back on the road.
Chiz
Quote from: Dads_FJ on April 08, 2014, 01:38:51 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 08, 2014, 09:43:49 AM
Tires wear out that is why we replace them. That is why they have tread wear indicators, so you know when it is time to replace them, if not sooner. New tires are cheaper than falling down.
Kurt
These 'indicators' you speak of... are they the wire things sticking out on the side?
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg)
These things:
(http://attach.kawiforums.com/2007/07/03/20070703204135-0-6081.jpg)
Quote from: Dads_FJ on April 08, 2014, 01:38:51 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 08, 2014, 09:43:49 AM
Tires wear out that is why we replace them. That is why they have tread wear indicators, so you know when it is time to replace them, if not sooner. New tires are cheaper than falling down.
Kurt
These 'indicators' you speak of... are they the wire things sticking out on the side?
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg.html)
I bet the bike handled like a beauty with that tyre on it. Check the shape of it. :shok:
When I worked at the bike shop and one of us who worked there was replacing a tire we used to burn down the old one until they blew. You half to be careful not to let it get spinning to fast or it will tear up the bike when it goes. If you do it correctly they just pop and don't come apart. This is too much fun.
Kurt
Quote from: Bones on April 09, 2014, 02:10:36 AM
Quote from: Dads_FJ on April 08, 2014, 01:38:51 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on April 08, 2014, 09:43:49 AM
Tires wear out that is why we replace them. That is why they have tread wear indicators, so you know when it is time to replace them, if not sooner. New tires are cheaper than falling down.
Kurt
These 'indicators' you speak of... are they the wire things sticking out on the side?
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/tyre_zpsc6e69d5c.jpg.html)
I bet the bike handled like a beauty with that tyre on it. Check the shape of it. :shok:
Yea I learned a good lesson with this one... I made it home after the 1500 mile trek, but it handled like shit and I was worried it was going to blow. The extra 'miles' I got out of it wasn't worth it.
Just wanted to add a bit to this thread.
I changed a Metzeler ME880 front tire a few weeks ago with a No-Mar Classic tire changer. Pulled the old one off and mounted and balanced a fresh one. That tire is a brute...I used all the suggested tricks for touring tires from the No-Mar videos and it went pretty well. I imagined a person would struggle quite a bit using the zip-tie method with this stiff of a tire.
On the other end of the spectrum, I removed and re-mounted a rear Avon Roadrider today with the same No-Mar changer...to find the heavy spot and give it a proper balance. That Avon has such a light carcass compared to the Metzeler that I nearly could have mounted it by hand! Popped the first side on and nearly all of the second side without any tools at all. :yes: A quick roll with a mount bar and it was on. I couldn't believe the difference!
Somewhere closer in stiffness to the Metzelers, are a fresh set of Pirelli Sport Demons I have here in the garage.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: jscgdunn on April 07, 2014, 07:15:07 PM
My next thing to figure out to do myself; I just spent $100 to get two tires mounted today....seems outrageous.
Jeff
$100!!! Holy crap, that's crazy, I just got mine mounted AND balanced for $20.
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 08, 2014, 12:56:14 PM
Have none of you guys ever heard of tire irons?
I've changed several motorcycle tires and never had to resort to cutting them off.
I put them on the same way!
Leon
^^^^^^WHAT HE SAID^^^^^^ :dash2: You're killing me smalls :dash2: haha. It's SUPER easy and cheap to use tire irons, I'm just lucky enough to know a super cool dude that does mine for $20. Bust the bead with a plastic wedge and a hammer if you HAVE to...(we call an 8lb hammer just a hammer in the oil field)
I just go to the shop I used to work at and use the proper machine, hand the owner a tip as thanks.