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zip ties and tyres

Started by chiz, April 07, 2014, 06:19:19 PM

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chiz

Hello all
Is it true that if you tighten a bunch of zip ties around a tyre you can get it onto the rim and then cut the ties and pull them out.
Thanks Chiz

FJscott

Quote from: chiz on April 07, 2014, 06:19:19 PM
Hello all
Is it true that if you tighten a bunch of zip ties around a tyre you can get it onto the rim and then cut the ties and pull them out.
Thanks Chiz


Yep

movenon

 :good2:  A little baby shampoo also helps it has some nice slick crap in it.  Harbor Freight has the 24 inch ties for around 2.00.
George

Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

jscgdunn

My next thing to figure out to do myself;  I just spent $100 to get two tires mounted today....seems outrageous.

Jeff



92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

FJmonkey

I have done 3 sets myself and helped Mike (Skymasterers) do his last set. The $40 tire balance stand from HF works well, don't for get to pick up tire weights while you are in there.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Pat Conlon

Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2014, 08:02:41 PM
I have done 3 sets myself and helped Mike (Skymasterers) do his last set. The $40 tire balance stand from HF works well, don't for get to pick up tire weights while you are in there.

No so fast my simian hombre, tell us what you learned about taking the old tire off?

Any tips you care to share?  :biggrin:

Seriously....I thought that a Saws-All would be a marvelous idea....?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

yamaha fj rider

Most of the time I have been able to break the bead loose by putting on moto boots and steeping on the edge of the tire. If that dose not work then use a bottle jack on the tire pressing against car or truck to break the bead. With the old style bumper jack (think 70s) we have been able to break down atv tires in the field. Hope this helps.
Important tire must be deflated first.  :rofl:

Kurt
93 FJ1200
FJ 09
YZ250X I still love 2 strokes
Tenere 700
FJR1300ES

FJmonkey

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 07, 2014, 08:09:05 PM
No so fast my simian hombre, tell us what you learned about taking the old tire off?

Any tips you care to share?  :biggrin:

Seriously....I thought that a Saws-All would be a marvelous idea....?

To break the bead I put two 2x4x20 on the ground near my trucks trailer hitch. The wheel rests on the 2x4s to keep it off the ground. Then I take another 2x4 about 5 feet long (the lever) and a shorter 2x4 about 12 to 15 inches long (The bead breaker). The short 2x4 is angle cut at about 45 degrees, this end goes at the bead. The 5 footer goes under the bottom of the hitch and over the flat end of the bead breaker. Then with downward pressure the leverage forces the bead to break loose. Work all around the tire, flip and do it again.

Now to get that pesky worn out tire off the wheel. I first used a reciprocating saw (a Saws-All like tool).  That was a pain to do solo. Then I remembered another tool I had not even opened, a high frequency multi-tool.

Like this:


I used the smooth blade attachment and cut through the side wall like it was butter. Once both side walls are cut through the bulk of the carcase falls off. Then with your (gloved) hands you can pull the two bead portions off. I turn in the old tire(s) at my local household waste collection facility (about once a year).

I figure I am saving about $40 to $50 each set by doing my own mount and balance.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

fintip

Wouldn't you not recommend doing that again? Getting the beaded remains out was a huge pain, no? Would it have been easier to cut the tire and half, giving you more to grip?
fjowners.wikidot.com

Not everyone understands what a completely rational process this maintenance of a motorcycle is. They think it's some kind of a knack or some kind of affinity for machines in operation. They are right, but the knack is almost purely a process of reason.
-ZAMM

IBA:54952

FJmonkey

Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 10:50:26 PM
Wouldn't you not recommend doing that again? Getting the beaded remains out was a huge pain, no? Would it have been easier to cut the tire and half, giving you more to grip?

Cutting with a saw blade with teeth made the job harder. With the bead off the rim the tire wants to follow the blade (up and down), no cutting. The ultra-sonic tool with a blade, was smooth and quick. Do not attempt to cut through radial tires in the tread area if you value your blade. Once the beads were just rings they came off easy.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

fintip

Radial tires should be easier than cross-ply, as they are intentionally thinner by design (no overlapping plys). But yeah, good point, any motorcycle tire will be very, very thick in the center... And metal? Yeah, blanked on that last post, purely theoretical thinking.
fjowners.wikidot.com

Not everyone understands what a completely rational process this maintenance of a motorcycle is. They think it's some kind of a knack or some kind of affinity for machines in operation. They are right, but the knack is almost purely a process of reason.
-ZAMM

IBA:54952

FJmonkey

Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 11:04:31 PM
Radial tires should be easier than cross-ply, as they are intentionally thinner by design (no overlapping plys). But yeah, good point, any motorcycle tire will be very, very thick in the center... And metal? Yeah, blanked on that last post, purely theoretical thinking.


For most with worn tires, the center is the thinnest.... But the side wall is fiber and cuts easy with the right tool. Maybe I will test cut the tread when I put my new rear on in the next month, over 8K and my Conti Motion is used up. Many happy miles on that tire....
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

fintip

I could be wrong, but I feel pretty sure that most motorcycle tires have so many layers in the middle that even when the tread is bald, it's still far thicker than the sidewall. The mechanic I worked for once mentioned something that put that idea in my head, can't remember exactly what, but something about tires being way thicker than most people realize.
fjowners.wikidot.com

Not everyone understands what a completely rational process this maintenance of a motorcycle is. They think it's some kind of a knack or some kind of affinity for machines in operation. They are right, but the knack is almost purely a process of reason.
-ZAMM

IBA:54952

Capn Ron

Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2014, 09:45:22 PM

I figure I am saving about $40 to $50 each set by doing my own mount and balance.

Although I don't use the zip tie method, I am now mounting and balancing all my own tires.  In addition to the $20-$25 per tire saved, I see many benefits:


  • I get to fiddle with my OWN tires and get the confidence knowing that it was done right
  • I can balance the wheel alone to find and mark the true heavy spot
  • I KNOW the dot on the tire is lined up with this spot for the minimal amount of added weights to balance
  • I can do my own balancing.  The first two dealer balanced examples I checked were WAY off (needed five 1/4 oz weights, they used TWO)
  • I get to properly clean the wheel while the tire is off...found all sorts of crud in there from mountings over the years
  • I don't have to drive to the dealer, drop them off...drive home...wait...drive back to the dealer...drive home, just to pay dealer prices
  • I can change tire types just because I feel like it.  The convenience means that I might mount up the Metzelers for a mega trip...or put the Pirellis back on for the mountain roads around the house.

Cap'n Ron. . .
Cap'n Ron. . .


There are two types of people in the world...Those who put people into categories...and those who don't.

FJmonkey

Quote from: fintip on April 07, 2014, 11:20:33 PM
I could be wrong, but I feel pretty sure that most motorcycle tires have so many layers in the middle that even when the tread is bald, it's still far thicker than the sidewall. The mechanic I worked for once mentioned something that put that idea in my head, can't remember exactly what, but something about tires being way thicker than most people realize.

Having a few self changed sets in my tool belt, I can say a well worn rear has the thinnest part in the middle. The side wall seems to get very little wear, the tread, a bit more... I endeavor to wear off the sides even more than I do now. I paid for the entire F$%# tire, I want to use it all up before I am done with it.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side