Changing out clutch...

[higbonzo]

Hey all,

Changing out my clutch at the moment.  It was slipping pretty bad at about 6500 rpm with full throttle second and third gears.  Was even slipping in forth and fifth sometimes.  Well,  I have it tore down and it appears to be in great shape.  There are no burn marks and the disc look like new.  I am pretty sure this is the original clutch and the bike has about 50,000 miles.  Could it be the spring?  I am going to change everything out with new parts, but it really doesn't appear to need to be changed, unless the friction plates have just gotten hard over time.  I am going to take the groups advice and add a second diaphragm spring.  I am just really surprised at how little wear there is on the disc and friction plates.

Yes, I soaked the friction plates prior to installation.

Later..... 

[higbonzo]

A quick question.  Will the second diaphragm spring stay in place without moving?

[andyb]

Second spring will move until the inner fingers are offset with each other.  Won't hurt anything.

Normally a clutch slips worst in higher gears, not lower gears...?  Use OEM clutch stuff and honestly you could just replace the spring instead of doubling it, or shim it slightly.  Double springs makes for a pretty manly clutch lever, so a 14mm master may be in your future.

[higbonzo]

Second spring will move until the inner fingers are offset with each other.  Won't hurt anything.

Normally a clutch slips worst in higher gears, not lower gears...?  Use OEM clutch stuff and honestly you could just replace the spring instead of doubling it, or shim it slightly.  Double springs makes for a pretty manly clutch lever, so a 14mm master may be in your future.

Thanks.

Got r done. The clutch is a little harder to pull, but I think I can handle it.  I may go with a Barnett conversion kit some time in the future, but this will work for now.  Like you said in an early post, if you have the Barnett set up you can always change the spring rates.  I took it out for a short drive and it definitely needed the clutch work done.

I also added a Kerker White Tip full exhaust system.  I had to make my own hanger to keep it off the brake, but over all it seems to work nice and it definitely is much better looking than the Vance and Hines.

Later...

[rktmanfj]

Got r done. The clutch is a little harder to pull, but I think I can handle it.  I may go with a Barnett conversion kit some time in the future, but this will work for now.  Like you said in an early post, if you have the Barnett set up you can always change the spring rates. 

If you do get the Barnett setup in hopes of lightening the pull from the double spring setup, get springs other than those that come with the kit.  Honestly, you'd probably be better off to get a 14mm clutch master instead.  You might want to consider a braided line while you have it apart.

Randy T
Indy

[higbonzo]

Got r done. The clutch is a little harder to pull, but I think I can handle it.  I may go with a Barnett conversion kit some time in the future, but this will work for now.  Like you said in an early post, if you have the Barnett set up you can always change the spring rates. 

If you do get the Barnett setup in hopes of lightening the pull from the double spring setup, get springs other than those that come with the kit.  Honestly, you'd probably be better off to get a 14mm clutch master instead.  You might want to consider a braided line while you have it apart.

Randy T
Indy

I am already saving for a complete braided line set up for my bike.  I will have to check into the larger reservoir, but theoretically I've been told the restore size shouldn't make a difference on pressure applied to make clutch or brake function.  Although fulcrum point makes a big difference.

Thanks.

Later......

[elbows]

mine sliped like hell till i changed the oil to a 20/50 morris ringfree it has never sliped since

[threejagsteve]

I am already saving for a complete braided line set up for my bike.  I will have to check into the larger reservoir, but theoretically I've been told the restore size shouldn't make a difference on pressure applied to make clutch or brake function.  Although fulcrum point makes a big difference.

Higbonzo,

The point of the 14mm m/c is not a larger reservoir but the larger bore diameter (14mm vs. 12mm), thus increasing your mechanical advantage.

Cheers, and Kookaloo!

[andyb]

If you do get the Barnett setup in hopes of lightening the pull from the double spring setup, get springs other than those that come with the kit.  Honestly, you'd probably be better off to get a 14mm clutch master instead.  You might want to consider a braided line while you have it apart.

Why's that, randy?  I'm using the Barnett kit and having no problems with it as delivered.  Seems like it's someplace between the double springs (too stiff to modulate effectively) and the stock setup (slipped like mad).  That's with the 5/8 master, though.  A 14mm may be on the shopping list for the next season, for other reasons.

[TRoy]

The point of the 14mm m/c is not a larger reservoir but the larger bore diameter (14mm vs. 12mm), thus increasing your mechanical advantage.

No. The 14mm master is smaller than the stock 5/8.  The smaller bore increases your mechanical advantage 

[rktmanfj]

If you do get the Barnett setup in hopes of lightening the pull from the double spring setup, get springs other than those that come with the kit.  Honestly, you'd probably be better off to get a 14mm clutch master instead.  You might want to consider a braided line while you have it apart.

Why's that, randy?  I'm using the Barnett kit and having no problems with it as delivered.  Seems like it's someplace between the double springs (too stiff to modulate effectively) and the stock setup (slipped like mad).  That's with the 5/8 master, though.  A 14mm may be on the shopping list for the next season, for other reasons.

A couple of people who rode mine with the Barnett kit complained about the stiff pull, and they said it was worse than the double spring setup.  YMMV  I have no problem with it either, but it definitely is firmer than stock.

Maybe they are just wussies...

I am going to put on a 14mm master at some point, but just to match the brake side in looks.  I'm tired of looking at that R1 pudding cup, even if it does have the fancy-schmancy Jon Cain bracket.

Randy T
Indy

[FJ Flyer]

If you go with replacing the stock spring, get an FJR1300 spring.  Same part but a hell of a lot cheaper, for some reason.

[andyb]

Hrm.  I went from the double spring to the coil conversion, and the double spring was decidedly tougher at the lever.

Wonder if the conversions have gotten different springs included over the years or something.  It's another perk to the coil setup; they're adjustable!

[tqmx1]

Get 2 more large friction discs, replace the small inner with one of the big ones and then take the other big disc to a machine shop along with the pressure plate and have them machine the ID of the disc so you have about .010" between the disc to pressure plate.

Reinstall the works with the stock spring and presto chango no slippy!!

[Ratchet_72]

Get 2 more large friction discs, replace the small inner with one of the big ones and then take the other big disc to a machine shop along with the pressure plate and have them machine the ID of the disc so you have about .010" between the disc to pressure plate.

Reinstall the works with the stock spring and presto chango no slippy!!

With this setup my clutch NEVER slipped.  You might think about removing the little wire retaining doohickey that encircles the basket also. You'll have a tiny bit more clutch chatter BUT if that wire retainer comes off in the motor you are Fucked.