Want to change the fork oil . . .

[racerrad8]

The inner screwdriver slot is the damper rod adjustment, it should turn independently when removing the cap.

The hex you have highlighted is the spring pre-load, it should be turning with the cap as you remove it.

If you need the fork rebuilt, you can send them over and I can do the for you. I charge $130.00 plus parts and I guarantee they will be rebuilt properly.

Randy - RPM

[red]

The inner screwdriver slot is the damper rod adjustment, it should turn independently when removing the cap.
The hex you have highlighted is the spring pre-load, it should be turning with the cap as you remove it.
If you need the fork rebuilt, you can send them over and I can do the for you. I charge $130.00 plus parts and I guarantee they will be rebuilt properly.
Randy - RPM

Randy,

I figure that would be your $130, maybe $95 for a fork rebuild kit, and $210 for new fork valves, for a minimum of $435.  That fork valve "mod" would be nice for me, really, but it's more than I can spend, for now.  I just bought new tires, and some other stuff.  Maybe in the dead of Winter here, things will be better for me.

For right now, though, what happens when the spring pre-load collar is unscrewed and removed completely, on otherwise fully assembled front forks?  I'd like to get a look at that center rod.

Cheers,
Red

[racerrad8]

Randy,

For right now, though, what happens when the spring pre-load collar is unscrewed and removed completely, on otherwise fully assembled front forks?  I'd like to get a look at that center rod.

Cheers,
Red

You need to support the weight of the bike and remove the caps. Then drain the oil and refill with new. Put the caps back on making sure to index the damper rod adjusting shaft in the center of the damper rod.

It might be worth going and downloading one of the service manuals available on the website. Here is one George posted recently; http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9581.0

Randy - RPM

[X-Ray]

I'll second that comment by Randy. SUPPORT the front end. I thought mine was supported but the jack had lost pressure without me noticing and when I took the first cap off, wow you should have heard the whistle as it shot past my head. The dent it made in the steel roof isn't bad either, lol.

I won't be making that mistake again  

[red]

I'll second that comment by Randy. SUPPORT the front end. I thought mine was supported but the jack had lost pressure without me noticing and when I took the first cap off, wow you should have heard the whistle as it shot past my head. The dent it made in the steel roof isn't bad either, lol.
I won't be making that mistake again     

X-Ray,

Yeah, I would expect that to happen, from some other bikes that I had.  Other riders have said much the same things to me, also.  None of my earlier bikes (in my under-funded world) were putting as much weigh on the springs as the FJ, though, so I may know what can happen, but I do not know how much pressure is involved.  How were you able to compress the fork springs on the FJ, to get the fork caps back on?

[X-Ray]

It wasn't too bad getting the cap back on, just a pain getting the fine threads engaged correctly and not crossed. It was just a matter of cap in hand, pushing down with my weight while turning the thing slowly trying to get it threaded right. Took a few goes as I had new springs which were a little tough, but I'm sure others had an easier experience than me,