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Went on a little bit of a diet this weekend.

Started by VaughanCustoms, July 08, 2013, 07:11:42 AM

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VaughanCustoms

So I continued the streetfighter kind of look this weekend. I put the front fender on a diet and desided to take the rear mud guard off. I think its starting to get a pretty cool look. I want to figure out a way to cut maybe like 2-3 inches out of the subframe but I do want to keep her a two seater. I ordered a small front faring to go on the front. I will mock it up and see what she looks like.

The front end is still torn apart btw.


Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

Grey runner

The older I get, the faster I was

VaughanCustoms

This is true but to be honest I really like the rear tail piece with the hump and the little spoiler. I guess eventually I will either have to figure something out or make some compromizes.
Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

FJscott

Looking good, love the color. I think the FJ makes a good candidate for a streetfighter morph.

Scott :drinks:

VaughanCustoms

Yeah I think it will be pretty sweet when its done. If I had gotten the bike as a original I would prob leave it alone but it would cost me more to put it back to stock then making it my own so I am just going to keep going with it. I think when I do the actual finish paint work (this is just a temporary I did with a spray gun real quick in my garage) I will do maybe a shade or two darker on the orange and do a metalic.
Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

fj11.5

Looking cool :good2:, how did you modify the rear fended, cut it off level with the tail piece, or remove the whole section
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

fj1289

Always thought an FJ street fighter needs a set of scoops like Triumph used on the Speed Four:



Awesome start!  Hope you've taken good pics and do a project thread... Please!

VaughanCustoms

I just removed the whole thing. Now I have to find a new place to mount my tag though lol. Yes you just gave me a idea. I dont really like those scoops but I like the idea, I am going to search around and see what I can find.
Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

HARTLESS

Quote from: VaughanCustoms on July 09, 2013, 07:24:19 AM
I just removed the whole thing. Now I have to find a new place to mount my tag though lol. Yes you just gave me a idea. I dont really like those scoops but I like the idea, I am going to search around and see what I can find.
just remember, if you ride in the rain everything under your butt is going to get all nasty and wet. I was going to do the same but I commute to work on my bike and i decided that it already gets muddy enough, so i just cut it flush. nothing a dremel cant handle and i kept the license plate holder on to solve that propblem. my .02 cents
STRIVE FOR PERFECTION, SETTLE FOR EXCELENCE

I ride HARTLESS or don't ride at all!

VaughanCustoms

Lol did not think about that but I dont really plan on riding in the rain I will take one of the cars. I kind of like the look of the axle mounted lisence plate holders so I think I will go that route. I may put it back on to be on the safe side though lol. Thanks for the info.
Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

fj11.5

Cutting flush seems the way to go, had wondered about mounting the licence plate, there's some cool ones on ebay, if I didn't allready have the twin xjr tail lights id go with the tail light/ plate bracket set up
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

Firehawk068

One thing to think about.....................The FJ was designed with the fairing scoops that direct air to the top of the cylinder head for cooling.....
I am not sure how hot the engine would get running around without the air scoops in place?

love the paint colors though...
Alan H.
Denver, CO
'90 FJ1200

ribbert

Quote from: Firehawk068 on July 09, 2013, 10:54:09 PM
One thing to think about.....................The FJ was designed with the fairing scoops that direct air to the top of the cylinder head for cooling.....
I am not sure how hot the engine would get running around without the air scoops in place?


Too hot!

FJ's have a tendency to run hot anyway. Those scoops are not cosmetic.

As I have mentioned before, I have good reason to believe the centre cylinder heads, with the ducts, are more efficiently cooled than the outsided ones or at worst, just as well.
Without the ducts you are removing nearly all the airflow to the middle of the head.

Make or adapt something cool looking if you want but you need good airflow to the middle cylinders.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

VaughanCustoms

You have to realize to though that I don't have the big front fairing blocking air to the motor too though. I just have headlights on the front of my FJ and nothing else so the motor is definatly getting alot of air. I do plan on working something up though.
Built not bought is always my motto.
1967 Mercury Cougar 289 4V bored .30 over forged internals full ground up build
1998 Ford Mustang Cobra convertible DOHC 4.6 .30 over forged internals, future turbo car. 400 rwhp.
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 street fighter V&H exhaust, re-jet, K&N pods.

skymasteres

Quote from: VaughanCustoms on July 10, 2013, 07:00:20 AM
You have to realize to though that I don't have the big front fairing blocking air to the motor too though. I just have headlights on the front of my FJ and nothing else so the motor is definatly getting alot of air. I do plan on working something up though.

You know, if you look at the ducting on general aviation aircraft you'll notice that they don't subscribe to the "It's hanging out there and it get's a lot of air" mentality. They are at the cutting edge with air cooling because it is so critical for them.  As a general rule of thumb you want 4x the about of cooling out outlet than intake. So if you have 4 square inches of duct face going in you want to have 16 square inches coming out.

The ducts on the FJ work so well because they are designed along this principle. (Small inlet, lots of outlet area) The problem with lots of inlet area is that you get stagnation and hot spots. (Plus the huge drag penalty. But that's more important for airplanes) A well designed cowling for an air cooled engine you can actually acheive mesureable amount of net posative thrust.