News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

Brake lines, front fork upgrades, rear shock, etc

Started by iMav, June 28, 2013, 04:37:53 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

iMav

Ok, so I am planning for my winter projects on my new-to-me 1989 FJ1200...

First off, what is a good source for braided brake lines? 

Second, I am looking at the following items from RPM to upgrade the front forks.  Is this all that is needed?  Any special tools or additional items?

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkR%2FBKit
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFS.85
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Motul5W

Same question regarding the shock.  Is this all that is required?  Any special tools or additional items?

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMShock%28L%29

gdfj12

I just did the FJR master cyls. on my '89, with the FJR monoblock calipers & new Spiegler brake lines (2-line kit) & it's all great now. Use a good DOT 4 brake fluid & you should be golden. The cool thing about the Spiegler lines is that I was able to adjust the fitting orientations to work with my MCs & calipers on the YZF forks.

For the fork upgrades, tools you'll need other than the usual dis-assembly tools: A good seal driver will be very helpful. A 'special' tool to hold the damper rod would make things a lot easier, there are several described either here or on the Yahoo yamahafj group that you can make from cheap materials. The correct size allen socket to fit in the bottom bolt, supplies to clean & polish the appropriate parts, grease/lube to aide assembly & possible a helper or 2.

Then those same helpers can help you set the correct sag & preload on the forks. And the rear shock when you do it.

George
gdfj12
'89 FJ1200, 'slightly' modified, lifetime MA member ;^)
George D
'89 FJ1250 ~'90-black/blue
'87 FJ1250 ~streetfighter project
'89 FJ1200 ~white/silver, resto project
'88 Honda Hawk GT, resto project

keand3

Looks like you have it all covered and George summed it up pretty good.

As for brakelines I too went with Speigler, but with a M/C of an R1.
I would recommend to replace those stock calipers with blue dot or similar ones if you haven't allready done them.   :yes:
With the blue dots make sure to use EBC HH pads, it makes all the difference in the world :good2:



The rearshock is made to bolt straight on. Shoot Randy an email, he'll help you out :-)
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

markmartin

+1 on the Spiegler brake lines.
+1 on changing the bushings and seals.


This write up will help guide you through the emulator installation and at least show you the tools you'll need.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0] [url]http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0 [/url]
This is written for 'Race Tech' brand cartridge emulators.  You won't be needing to drill out the damper rods with the RPM emulators.


+1 on the blue dot calipers if you can swing it--while your there....
An  FZ1 Master will also bolt on and give you the coffin box look similar to the FJ OEM.

racerrad8

As already mentioned, a fork seal driver. This also works well putting the upper bushing in as well.

I think I have one or two of these old style seal drivers left at a reduced price; http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7430.0

If not I have plenty of the new version; http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3Aforksealdriver

You will need to make the damper rod holding tool which is well documented here. if you can't find it I'll look later for the link.

And finally, the fork oil level gauge is perfect for setting the oil level in the forks; http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AForkLevel

Other than that there are no special tools required.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

iMav

Quote from: racerrad8 on June 28, 2013, 06:18:30 PM
Other than that there are no special tools required.

Randy - RPM

Perhaps I will touch base with you when I get ready to order the parts.  My bike is currently completely stock. 

I am mechanically inclined...however, I have never done fork rebuilds or much in the way of brake work.  (I've done things like valve adjustments, belt drive conversions, clutch rebuilds, etc)

iMav

Purchased the following (you can let me know if I did good or not)  ;)

EBC Brake Pads FA252HH (2) Sets. FZS1000 FZ1 01-05, YZF1000 R1 98-03, YZF/R6/XV
02 03 Yamaha YZF R1 front brake calipers left right AND lines OEM 2002 2003
03 04 05 Yahama FJR1300 FJR 1300 Front Brake Master Cylinder with Lever OEM NICE

I want to get the Spiegler braided brake lines.  Submitted my "wishlist" from the website to my local dealer...any online store that I can order directly from??


I am fairly confident I can do the front brakes...I'm still not perfectly clear on the front forks; have never done that before.  I have removed front forks before (to install gaiters on my old Triumph)...  I just don't have a clear understanding in my head of the steps needed, how I would use a "seal driver", and the specifics of this "special tool" I would need to fashion.  Don't you guys have any regional mod parties I could partake in??  :)

Arnie

iMav,

Lots of online parts suppliers will carry the items you list. 
For the calipers and M/C you will probably end up at a "wrecker's" (dismantler) website.

The rest of the parts you can get from many motorcycle suppliers INCLUDING Randy ( http://www.rpmracingca.com) who will help you here and directly if needed.

The "special" tool is just a 27mm hex on a (long) handle to hold the damper rod from turning while you loosen and remove the allen head bolt underneath the fork leg.  While a fork seal driver is nice to have, you can get by with a length of plastic pipe.

I'll be happy to help you (or others) with their brakes or forks, but you may find the travel a bit dear. :-)
I'm pretty sure there are step-by-step instructions with pics in the files section. SEARCH is your friend.

Arnie

markmartin

This should help.  It's the same link that I tried to post before in this thread, but copied the link address wrong.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0

The write up is in an 'word' attachment on the first post.

Mark M

iMav

I'm going to focus on getting the front brakes done and all my gauges working properly.  We'll see what I want to tackle next once that is accomplished!  (also have my GPS and GIVI topcase to mount, replacement mirrors to install, and the spin on oil filter adapter)

jvb_ca

The RPM fork valves are highly recommended...... :good2:....just installed mine and couldn't be happier.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9670.0

Cheers...Jake
Cheers...Jake
86FJ1200
Ontario

iMav

Ok, I am pretty much ready to say "screw the fuel gauge!"  Bought a replacement off of eBay and now it is non-functional as well.  I kinda miss that bouncy fuel gauge that at least gave me some clue...  <sigh>

Anyways, I am certainly familiar with taking a lot of the plastic off now.  :)

My "gold dot" calipers are here and I am waiting for my custom brake lines and new brake pads.  Really hoping I can competently get the job done...never have I had so many problems with tasks that should be straight forward.


fj11.5

Fuel gauges are over rated, ,unlike a car we can just look in the tank, if your down to the hump in the tank its under a quarter left  :scratch_one-s_head: , just use the trip meter and get an idea how many k,s / miles you can get from a tank full, 
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

iMav

Quote from: fj11.5 on July 05, 2013, 05:15:21 PM
Fuel gauges are over rated, ,unlike a car we can just look in the tank, if your down to the hump in the tank its under a quarter left  :scratch_one-s_head: , just use the trip meter and get an idea how many k,s / miles you can get from a tank full, 

I've done that with many bikes.  But it just digs at me to see an inoperable gauge staring me in the face.   :ireful:

fj11.5

I know the feeling, I have digital gauges, work well except the fuel gauge just scrolls because the resistor is set at the factory at  500ohm and the fj is 110 ohm,s,  havnt bothered tearing it apart to change resistors
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne